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THE LIBRARY
OF
THE UNIVERSITY
OF CALIFORNIA
LOS ANGELES
I
V
EL-KHUDS, THE HOLY;
OR,
GLIMPSES IN THE ORIENT.
BY
WM. MASON TURNER, B. Ph., M. D.,
OF PETERSBURG, VIRGINIA.
PHILADELPHIA:
JAMES CHALLEN & SON,
No. 25 South Sixth Street.
1861.
russ, in ili'' yeai 1 60, by
.! Wll - CHALLEN & SON,
■ in and for the Eastern District of
Pennsylvania.
■iI'ERS. ' 18HMEAD, PRIMES.
TQS%
TO
COL. JNO. R. CHAMBLISS, SR.,
OF EASTERN VIRGINIA,
AS A FEEBLE TOKEN OF HIGH ESTEEM,
Cjjis Mumt
IS MOST CORDIALLY DEDICATED,
BY HIS FRIEND,
THE AUTHOR.
r> *~>
PREFACE.
INE more book of travels is thrust upon the reading
world ! Thanks to the publishers, however, this
can appear in a seemly garb — a garb which many,
I have no doubt, will prefer to the skeleton which
it so richly bedecks. However, be that as it may! . . .
On a cold winter night, not very long ago, in the bril-
liant capital of Louis Napoleon, a gay group of medical
students had assembled in a snug room in the far-famed
Latin Quarter. While the raw wind crept through the
deserted thoroughfares, and the heavy clock in Notre
Dame ticked audibly in that chamber, and struck in sono-
rous clangings the passing hours, nought but song and
laugh and jest enlivened the. time of the students. Moet
and Burgundy flowed freely, and under their elevating
stimulus our spirits arose in corresponding ratio. It was
a separation night ; on it, three of this band of students,
(5)
PR] l LCI
lU:i\ firom republican America, were to say good-
to their good-hearted confreres. The morrow's Bunsei
would see them in "Belgium's Capital." I formed one
of that hand, and one of t he mTtk .
bid so, when two months have rolled round, and you
have finished the Continent, I suppose 1 ma\ expect you
In in old La Charite, following Velpeau once more,"
a friend to me.
So, not so soon," T answered. "After journeying
: Germany, Prussia, and the Continent in general, I
expect, God willing, to sail from Naples, via Malta, for
T> rra Santa."
"The deuce you do!" replied my friend. "And now
I wish all the more that /could be along. But will you
30 kind as to think of poor me occasionally — of my
continual tram]) to the Midi and the Hotel Dieu — and
when 3 mything which interests you particularly,
jot it down and bring it to me ?"
This request at once suggested something higher. I will
keep a Journal, I said to myself. "Yes, Charles, I will
do as you wish," I replied to my friend.
The race of this work is that Journal, beginning,
after finishing up Europe, at Naples, or rather on the
Mediterranean, between Naples and Messina. Studiously
oily, I kept my Journal. Days, weeks, and
month- rolled hy. and yet my Journal was never neglected.
night, wherever I was — on field, mountain, or plain
PREFACE. Vll
— on rail, on sea, or on horseback, my pencil always scrib-
bled something in my little cahier, which I purchased of
an aveugle at the Font Royal, by the Tuileries. I deem
it useless to remark, however, that I have much deve-
loped this Journal, in preparing it for the press. It was
necessary, and was consistent with my original design.
The work is intended, without egotism, to amuse, inte-
rest, and instruct. Within its lids will be found all that
is necessary for the tourist of pleasure, the pilgrim to the
shrines, and the curious traveller. Much attention has
been paid to passports, moneys, rates of exchange, climate,
&c. ; and the Author would here gratefully express his
warmest obligations to Dr. Porter, the learned author of
" Five Years in Damascus ;" and to the elegant writer,
Mr. Stanley, for many useful facts gleaned from their
respective works — facts which the Author's limited expe-
rience did not call for. Wherever these writers have
been quoted, they are duly accredited.
In justice to myself and readers, I would say that the
stories interspersed through the work are original — with
myself only. The one related by S., at Valetta, has fact
for basis, but it is the only one. It was suggested to the
Author, to interlard dry details with fiction. This has
been done to a limited extent by the stories. Of course,
the references made by certain members of the party to
the stories of each individual, are imaginary, and the "read-
P R l P \ i B.
- Indulffence" is craved for them, as well as for the
w ork in general.
Ami now 1 would beg Leave to Bay, thai 1 was not im-
portuned bj "man} friends" to publish the work; in fact,
some of Baid friends said it was unwise — ntmsermcal,
even — to do so, in consideration of the greal number of
works on travel now in print. But the book has been
published, nevertheless; and in so far, the Author's fancy,
or whim, perhaps, has been followed. As he is beholden
to no man for the publication, if the work turn out a fail-
ure— why, his l» ih> loss, alone!
Ajs to tin' merits of the book, it does not befit me to
Bay one word. There will be yeas and nays concerning any
work, do whatever we may; it were indeed impossible
otherwise. To those, therefore, who have been pleased
with tin- perusal of my random thoughts, scribbled at odd
times and in odd places, I would say I feel myself flattered
heir task ; to those who pickout the faults of the volume,
1 would say that I am sorry it is so; and I am equally
. y to admit, as long as it cannot be helped, that — /
,/,,,,' i , ,i r> .'
Wm. Mason Turner.
V i.. An::. 24, 1*00.
TABLE OF CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
PAGE
Turkish coins— Rates of exchange— Bakhshish— Post-Office— Couriers-
Paseports
13
CHAPTER II.
Custom-House— Dragomen— Changeahleness of climate— The Syrian au-
tumn—Suitable clothing— Shoes— Learning the language— Means of loco-
motion—Arabian saddles— Weapons— Moral effect of arms . . .21
CHAPTER III.
Means of insuring health— Sketch of Palestine— Damascus— Syrian history
—Descendants of Canaan— Israelites take possession— Reign of David-
Kingdom of Israel— The wars of Israel— End of the Israelitish monarchy
—Siege of Tyre— Alexander spares Jerusalem— Jerusalem pillaged by
Apollonius— The Roman conquest— The Mohammedan conquest — The
Crusades— Capture of Jerusalem by Saladin— Tamerlane— Selim I.—
Ibrahim Pasha 33
CHAPTER IV.
Inhabitants of Palestine— Arab politeness— Fondness for titles— Independ-
ence of the Arab— Religions in Syria— The Turks— The .Jews— The
Christians— The Greek Church— The Maronites— The Mohammedans—
The Ansairiyeh— The Druzes— Syria and Palestine— Sharon— The Great
Valley— The Jordan— The Orontes— The Pharpar . ... 54
(9)
\ rABLE OF CONTENTS.
C II A IT I. R \ .
P m.i:
l'ln- Quirinal Sea siokness- The Cala
Hotel ' lold winds -Herr
l. [uipmenta for the East — An
II. -ri- Montag's storj Ippearanoe of Malta Citta Vec
English Boldiera \ oraafa -A raoe
lanufactures Thoughts of home -A saunter . . 7<j
<• 11 A PT i: R VI.
v n and reality— The passporl Bystem— A civil policeman — An
mi Btroll — A gho8l story — Belief in ghosts Mr. Win-
Iria in Bight— Sea-sickness — Discussion in regard to it — A
: ie Bhip-surgeon \ Btorj of Pari life \n < >ri-
- • inn of hoatmen — Dangers to baggage— The Macedonian —
jail 103
C II A I'T ER V I I.
' adria — laffa in sigh! — Reminiscences — Landing
"English Hotel" — Custom-houBe officials — The American
3— The orange groves House of Simon the tanner —
torj Syrian mail service — An Ame-
Biblical events in JaflFa — Massacre at Jaffa — Poisoning
Plain of Sharon — \ decayed tower — An accident — A pretty
i; unleh 135
f 11 A PTB R VIII.
• arly an accident — Missing wine —
II man implicated — Kirjath-jearim— Abu Ghaush — Samuel's birth-place
rerusalem — Within the walls — The Prussian Hospice —
I»r Barclay — Piral aighl in Jerusalem ....... 172
I II A I'T K R 1 X.
■ w— An adventure— Miss Barclay Mount of Olives — The
i ■• Bazaars— Knights of St. John
Ichre it a loss Recollection of an adventure
meat— The Golden Gate — The .Judgment-
dom's Pillar — Tomb of the apostle
/ I imbofthe Virgin Mary — (iitrden of Geth-
Bethany — Tomb of Lazarus — En-Rogel
tin of the Virgin — A trial of speed- -A race for
ii tht gate ...... 185
TABLE OF CONTENTS. XI
CHAPTER X.
PAGE
Church of the Sepulchre— Full description and history — Chapel of the Ap-
parition—Chapel of Helena— Crown of thorns— The stocks— Golgotha-
Greek and Latin Chapels— Erection of the church — Destroyed by fire—
The church rebuilt — The holy fire— A good dinner 225
CHAPTER XI.
Pool of Hezekiah— Cheapness of gold— Deniss, the photographer— Church
of St. James— Sprinkled with rose-water— Toothache— Bargaining for
curiosities — View from Mount Olivet — A keen trader .... 245
CHAPTER XII.
Manufactory of ornaments— Esslinger's story— Leave Jerusalem — Trip to
Jordan— Ain-el-Haud— Wady-el- Kelt— The brook Cherith— Fountain of
Elisha — The camping-ground — Ruins of Jericho— History of Jericho . 258
CHAPTER XIII.
Ride in the Valley of Jordan— Lebanon — Mount of Temptation— Banks of
the Jordan— The Jordan— Bathing in the Jordan — The Dead Sea— Tomb
of Moses— Mar Saba— Masada— Return to Jerusalem . . . .281
CHAPTER XIV.
Tree of Judas — Convent of Mar Elias— Church of the Nativity— Place of the
Saviour's birth— Belief in holy localities— Bethlehem— Women of Bethle-
hem A tragedy — David and Orpheus — Solomon's Pools — Casa Nuova —
Approaching departure — Our plans 302_
CHAPTER XV.
Last visits— Visit to Gethsemane— Photograph of party in Gethsemane—
Montag's second story 318
CHAPTER XVI.
Ancient topography of Jerusalem— Hill of Evil Counsel — Bezetha— Mount
of Olives— Mount Moriah— Ophel— Akra— Zion— The Tyropseon— The
brook Kidron — Hinnom • 33Z
II OF CON TEN TS.
0 ii a P i • i: i; \ \ i i.
f 161
i pod's Palaoe The Beoond wall The
\ iti Modern walla Modern
ii torj of Jerusalem .... 867
• ii a pt i: i: XVIII.
item continui I Eteli D oussion of an import-
rhe holy fire— The Temple
( ii a pt i: i; x i x.
mlum— Tombs of the Prophets— Tombs of the
of the Judges— Grotto of Jeremiah— Via Dolorosa— The
............ 403
CHAPTER XX.
Journal continued -Departure from Jerusalem — Parting with Montag —
; imleh — Jaffa again — On board — Mar Elias and Mt. Carmel —
,i — Balls in Beirut — Sail for Alexandria — On the Mediterranean — At
i — Africa in sigh! — A dilemma — India Family lintel — Swarms
rild fowl in the Nile valley — Arrival at Cairo — Donkey riding — Sight-
-Heliopolis — A weary day — Leave Cairo — Rival boat com-
\ battle— On board the Laconia 419
GHi PT E R XXI.
in— Different paths — A stormy passage — Arrive
3tromboli by night — Off Naples — -A ride in
\ parting meal — Civita Vecchia— Memories of Leghorn — An in-
Ma -A troublesome official — Flattering remarks —
\ rude Frenchman — Journey to Paris — Arrival at
0 I friende F irewell ...... 445
EL-KHUDS, THE HOLY.
CHAPTER I.
JO no coin in the world," as an able writer happily
remarks, " can the appellation of filthy lucre be
fp more aptly applied than to that of Turkey." Of
all the wretched and base-looking metallic curren-
cies manufactured from precious or base metals, we cer-
tainly do see the most wretched in that country ; and I
must say the writer aforesaid told simply the plain, unvar-
nished truth. Yet he does so in a manner far too mild to
express the miserable, dirty coins which act as the cir-
culating medium throughout Palestine, Syria, and the
Levant in general. Such as it is, however, and intended
for such creatures, perhaps it is but in accordance with
their natures, and is as fitted for them as the napoleon
is for the French, the sovereign for the English, or the
eagle for us of America. I have travelled in most of
the Continental countries of Europe, and have been per-
plexed over and often with the currency, respective va-
lues of moneys and rates of exchange ; but nowhere
have I suffered such decided inconvenience, — have I
learned but to unlearn, and forgotten but to learn again, —
(13)
II RKISB I I RR1 \n.
as in Syria and in Egypt. In Turkey, too, fco add to
other evils respecting this currency, miserable and detest-
able as it is, there is not hall* enough to satisfy the de-
mand for it. This, of course, tends to aid in the free
circulation of the coin of almost every other country,
which indeed is rated at a higher value than Dative cur-
rency.
In one locality we have a certain value on a certain
piece of money, and in a different section we have ano-
ther value; of course this adds much to the embarrass-
ment of the tourist. This we found the case in Jaffa on
the coast, and in Jerusalem, only some thirty-seven miles
distant.
At the former [dace, the piastre is worth about three
and one-third cent-; in Jerusalem it is valued at four
cents. Learning the currency should be a study prepara-
to a visit to many lands, and especially to the Holy
Land. It is like thoroughly mastering the text in Greek
or < rerman — once learned, much labor is saved, and in our
present case, many shillings retained, which would other-
form a continual bakhshish, or tribute of ignorance.
1 would strongly recommend, then, any who anticipate
»ur to these far-off sacred regions, to study and master
the currency and rates of exchange; in fact to pay more
attention to it, than, as many do, to providing especial
clothing, and laying in often a stock of medicines, both
of which, unless riiditly -elected, are -ood for naught, and
er "nK one purpose — to encumber.
The most commonly in circulation, and to the
valuable uses of which a traveller has much reason to
TURKISH CURRENCY. 15
testify, — especially in regions where bakhshish is in much
demand — and that part of Syria in which such is not the
case remains yet to be discovered by some geographer —
are the piastre and the para, or the ghersh and the nusaryeh
in Arabic. The former is valued at two-pence sterling,
or at about four cents American money ; the latter at one-
fortieth of a piastre, and, by-the-by, the most insignifi-
cant and filthy of these filthy coins. I saw while in Syria
only one native coin of gold ; that was a piece worth
nearly twenty-three piastres, and denominated a ghdzeh.
The most useful coin of the country, however, is the
kmnary, worth about a penny sterling ; it is most needed
in case of bakhshish (a great item in the East), and though
small goes a long way. As a convenient coin, however,
of some size and value and surety of passing, I think,
without any doubt, the napoleon of the French should be
chosen. According to my observation and experience, it
is more freely circulated than the sovereign, or the Russian
ruble.
When I drew on my bankers, Bergheim & Co., in Jeru-
salem, I was paid in francs, and did not pay a discount
at all, owing of course to the value of my letter of credit
from John Monroe & Co., of Paris. Turkish gold, how-
ever, it must be remembered, is as good as any, but it is
difficult to procure it. And here let me remark in pass-
ing, and for fear of forgetting it, that the traveller will
find it much to his advantage, should he come by Jaffa, to
change several large gold pieces into the change of the
country, or even do it when he arrives at Jerusalem, if he
cannot before — should he intend prosecuting his journey
16
ii RKISH CI i; R 1' N I J
further; in many, in fact in mosl of tin' small villages
of the H0I3 Land, it is extremely difficult to gel even
a aapoleon changed ; ami 1 know some of my readers,
readers, Bhould thej afterwards travel through this wild
hut Interesting country, will thank me for the above hint.
The following table of Turkish and foreign coins is as
correct and a- dear as : 1 1 1 \ 1 could procure. It is the one
followed by Dr. Porter in his admirable hand-book on
Syria and Palestine — a magnificent and most complete
work recently published.
< lOLD.
Gold.
Par,
Plant.
Par.
L08
20
117
20
Half Lira
54
Id
Half Sovereign . . .
58
30
22
0
93
20
BalfGhftzeh . . . .
11
0
Half Napoleon . . .
46
30
Silver.
Russian Ruble . . . .
95
0
'•i
22
0
Austrian Ducat . . .
55
30
Half Mejfdeh . . . .
11
0
Silver.
(Quarter Mejideh
5
20
Spanish Dollar . . . .
26
0
l'» w Mi r \i..
Five-Franc Piece . . .
23
30
Besblik
5
0
Austrian Dollar . . .
25
30
1 -hlik . . . .
2
20
Silver Ruble . . . .
19
0
< i • j «'• r - h
1
0
0
20
Turkish
.•..in-.
I
The above are foreign
coins.
the Turkish coins are valued only nominally, as
Been above, and, as Dr. Porter remarks, their intrinsic valve
■- them to be not current in any other country; a
fact u hich I more than once remarked.
The word " bakhshish" has been already written
several times, and perhaps it is as well to say more con-
cerning it now. and be done with it. The word means
BAKHSHISH. 17
" gift," and it is the first we hear when landing in Pales-
tine or in Egypt — and it is the last Arabic dissyllable
which sounds on our ears as wre leave the shores of these
countries. As we debarked and climbed upon the crowded
quay at the apology for a custom-house in Jaffa, " Bakh-
shish Hadji !" was heard grating on our tympanum until
we had beaten a safe retreat into " Blattner's ;" and the
supplication is accompanied by such a gesture, and given
in such a voice, that it seems more like an official, exact-
ing tribute, than a mendicant humbly entreating — in fact,
it is essentially the former. The Arabs regard it as a
general tax to be levied on every broad-cloth Hadji, and
especially on Milorclos, under which class they rank kingly
John Bulls and republican Jonathans alike. In many
parts of the Holy Land, especially north of Jerusalem,
and east of Jordan, they first ask this tribute, then
demand it, and terminate matters by taking it. An
example of this, and a forcible one — speaking loud the
power which the Bedaween exert — is the fact that we are
compelled to pay an enormous — bakhshish they term it,
but tax is the better word — in going from Jerusalem to
Jericho. We pay for the privilege of passing through
this wild country, in the desert places and mountain
gorges of which are seen to this day the " black tents" of
the days of Solomon. Bakhshish, then, is the first word
in Arabic we learn, and, if repetition aids in fixing it in
the memory, it is the last we forget. Whatever our
scruples are, and however much and firmly we are deter-
mined otherwise, we must give bakhshish. Your drago-
man, himself, will tell you that this is all necessary.
2
1 v poS P-OFFICE.
1 well remember how pertinaciously I was followed by
a little decrepid girl, in crossing the Plain of Sharon,
with my party to Jaffa. She must have dogged
me for more than two mileSi I purposely withheld
bakhshish, being curious to see to what extent her powers
endurance and begging-perseverance would lend her;
and when I threw some coins to her — amounting in all,
perhaps, to four cents — she gathered them up. and with a
look of satisfaction — not of <jr<i/i/it<{r — she leisurely set
out on her return. As I have said before, it is well to go
prepared with a handful of kamariat, if for no other pur-
p »se than for gift-money.
Before 1 finish the subject of money I might suggest that
letters-of-credit, or circular notes, are the safest and most re-
liable means for carrying and procuring funds; as one issued
in any of the large cities of Europe commands payment in
.1 isalem, in Beirut, and in many other towns of the East.
Tin' Post-Office Department in Syria scarcely deserves
••:i name" a- yet; it is certain there are very many
••/< ." and a few "habitations;" such as it is, how-
p, it is kept up pretty regularly. I refer here particu-
larly to the carrying of mails, which, in many cases, is
an individual enterprise — each man carrying his own mail
and that of two or three others. Such a thing as a
. ralrdt livi ry post-office in Jaffa or in Jerusalem does not,
1 think, exisl — each foreign consul's house answering as a
depot for Letters. In Beirut, however, there is a regular
post-office, and it is well kept, owing no doubt to influence
id. Couriers perform mail-duty between Damas-
- and Beirut, and with this is connected a carrier to
COURIERS PASSPORTS. 19
Baghdad who crosses the desert. The trip is performed
on a camel in about ten days. Couriers take closed bags
also from the several consulates in Jerusalem and deliver
them to the French or Austrian steamers at Jaffa, and
brine with them the return mails. These couriers are
odd-looking, yet romantic brigand-like individuals, in their
fanciful loose-flowing costumes, in which all the gay colors
commingle. They are, moreover, a moving machinery
of war — a walking armory in fact. Yet their belt full of
old pistols, their knives and their long, clumsy, brass-
banded guns, are more than overbalanced in efficacious-
ness by a Colt's repeater.
The French mail line — the Messageries Imperiales —
touching at Jaffa, Beirut, Tripoli, Ladakyeh, and Alex-
andretta, is to be preferred to the Austrian service or to
the English — the latter being only occasional. The
objections to the line of French steamers consist in the
changeableness of its schedule. When I was in the Holy
Land, the time of touching on the coast was once a fort-
night; but there was no certainty as to how long this
would continue. At any of the above-mentioned ports,
letters could be mailed to any part of the world. Postage
to England, not exceeding 1 oz., sixty centimes (twelve
cents) — not exceeding*? oz., one franc twenty centimes
(twenty-four cents) ; to America, about double the fore-
going rates. To get letters safely in Syria, it is best to
have them forwarded to the care of the consul — to some
banker, or to a permanently settled missionary.
In regard to passports, very little need be said. In
Syria, after you get there, they are not required at all.
pass po r rs.
The inhabitants know nol the use of thera ; bui the}
are necessan be/on yoii can becorm a passenger aboard a
Austrian steamer. This seems rather foolish in
this particular instance ; bui the differenl authorities have
something more in view than what is, apparently, a
needless formality. In Egypt, il is different. On land-
in:; at the quay in Alexandria, our pa-sports were taken
from us. and consigned to the keeping of our consul there.
We -aw uo more of them until we sailed from that port
westward.
1 1
CHAPTER II.
JIFFERENT persons differ as to their custom-house
experience in the Holy Land. Our party was not
at all successful in bribing, and our troubles and
vexations did not by any means agree with Dr.
Porter's opinion that " the custom house, so far as travel-
lers are concerned, is a mere name by which to introduce
the word bakhshish. All articles for the private use of
travellers, pass free by treaty. The right claimed by the
officials to open and examine is thus a mere form which
can be easily avoided by a small present. Dragomen
generally manage the affair by giving Jive piastres to the
officers, and charging twenty to their masters." Such,
indeed, was very far from being our good fortune. When
we landed at Jaffa, although we offered the custom-house
officials twice the bribe above named, yet it had no effect,
except, indeed, as it seemed, to whet their desire to see
what our trunks contained. They most rigidly examined
each and every article, and that with a scrutiny which
excelled any I ever saw in France or Austria. So I would
advise all to submit to it — first, from principle ; and
secondly, because you cheat the keen rogues of gift-money.
Those examining our trunks actually had the impudence
to ask for bakhshish, after disturbing our effects most
(21)
21 DRAGOMEN.
outrageously ! This, ;i German friend along with us
quicklj quieted, h\ first pointing i<> the door (it was at
our hotel), and then emphatically glancing towards the
/ /, /„ hoot! The hint was taken — but no bakhshish
A dragoman — more correctly turgoman — the word
means interpreter — is an artich more essential to the
traveller in the East, than the courier on the Continent.
to those unlucky wights who are silly enough to go to
travel in other lands, understanding no lingo save their
own home vernacular. A. dragoman you must have. JI»'
is your good and evil genius; he is — yourself, almost, and
is mon than yourself, to all intents. He talks for you;
he bargains for yon: fights for yon; and renders yon
many other services — at the same time very often, un-
fortunately, he deceives yon. and steals from you by
making a large percentage on everything bought. The
fact is, dragomen, as a class, are faithless and knavish.
Kindness but strengthens this disposition, and one must
rery careful to avoid being openly "fleeced." Towards
dragomen a firm, decided, dignified, composed, and, above
all, an unflinching demeanor is the grand feature of
conduct to he aimed at and adopted. Dragomen, like
many other fellow-mortals following different vocations,
i feel tic pleasures of laziness, yet. nt the same time,
like to "make hay" in spite of this laziness. Very often.
when the traveller wishes to go to some interesting
locality which may. perhaps, deviate from the general
way, the dragoman, although when he first presented his
humble self to you for patronage, he was overflowing
DRAGOMEN.
with courage— had, like Brown's Yuseph, slain many in
battle, and wished the merry pastime of slaying — in spite
of all this, I repeat, should the traveller mention some
place which he desired to visit, for instance Mar Saba —
the journey to which, from any point, is rough and tedious
—the dragoman raises his hands in holy horror, and
swears by Allah and the venerable beard of his holy
prophet, that just a few days before, a most horrible
murder was perpetrated in that very identical region —
and advises strongly that even the wish to go, be aban-
doned at once. In such a case — rely on it — it is a sham.
Assert your right— compel the man to do his dut}^, or
deduct immediately and largely from his wages. This
will generally produce a satisfactory result. I do not
say this is always the case — far from it ; but the occur-
rence is now so frequent that what was an exception, is
fast becoming a general rule.
The tourist should be warned also to rely on his own
reading — on his own information gathered from trust-
worthy guide-books, as to the history and antiquities of
places — and not to trust to dragomen. Beyond a few
localities in the beaten track of travel, dragomen know
nothing, though they often endeavor to satisfy your
inquiries by manufacturing some wild monkish legend,
extempore — which they are unable to repeat themselves.
A great many travellers come into Palestine by the
Short Desert and Sinai. To these I would say it is far
better to procure a guide in Cairo, and make engage-
ments with him for the entire trip — the dragoman to
furnish everything, including animals, food, tents, and
•J I DRAGOMEN.
(don't forget it) bakhshish. This will be the cheapest in
the end, and the tourist, by following this plan, will be
saved much trouble and expense. When the agreement
is made, it should be drawn up in writing, and a copy
deposited with your banker or consul — this is an induce-
ment to be faithful. When 1 was in Syria, travelling
thus, cost aboul $5.50 per day, for each person.
Above all things, do not submit yourself entirely to the
nu'iv\ of your dragoman. You will fare all the worse.
as your confidence will be sadly abused. Another cau-
tion 1 would give: beware of the dragoman who brings
too many testimonials. Remember, they are easily manu-
factured. 1 was besieged in .Malta by a surly fellow, who
wished to become my dragoman, though as yet a thousand
miles from Canaan. Nay, he even insisted that I should
take him — that he suited me and my party exactly; but
1 am glad to say 1 did not take him, and warn all travel-
Ins to beware of Maltese guides, wherever they mat/ be
found. 1 have had cause, myself, to rue their guardian-
ship. You can not be worsted by taking a dragoman when
yon arrive in the Holy Land. Jaffa, Beirut, and Jerusa-
lem -warm with them; and they are far superior to any
guides who claim .Malta as their abiding-place. I take
■t pleasure in recommending a young native Jew by
the nam<- of Ibrahim Mordecai. Ibrahim was our drago-
man to Jericho and Jordan. A noble-hearted fellow he
is — a- brave as a lion, and ever willing to serve you in
an;, way. What is another great item, he keeps a most
liberal cuisine, and moreover speak- English and Italian
well. He can be heard of from Dr. Gorham, at the Ame-
rican ( Consulate in Jerusalem.
CHANGEABLENESS OF CLIMATE. 25
It is difficult to say which season is the best for visiting
Syria and the East; and any one who knows much of the
climate of the country can of course judge for himself.
In no region of the globe is the climate as changeable
as in the Holy Land; and places distant not a geo-
graphical degree from each other, show a difference in
temperature which is unaccountable. The lofty ridges
of Mt. Lebanon and the distant line of the " hill country
of Judea," as well as Jerusalem, situated on an elevation
as it is, are decidedly cool and bracing. The air around
Beirut is particularly fine, so said, and on that account
the heights "form excellent winter residences for invalids."
In regions near Jordan and the Dead Sea, where there is
a great natural depression, and along the entire seaboard,
the air is warm, oppressive, and sultry. There is never
rain of any moment in Palestine from the middle of April
to the middle of September; the consequence is, that
during the intervening months there is a drought and a
heat which parch up the soil, and render travelling not
only uncomfortable but decidedly hazardous. The rains
commence about the last of October, and fall intermit-
tingly until March. In some regions I learn there is
thunder and lightning, as in the Lebanon neighborhood,
but I never experienced it in my sojourn there. While in
Jerusalem, we had snow as many as five times, although
a reliable author writes : " But in Palestine frost is seldom
seen, and the cold is not severe." I suffered as much,
huddling near the small stove in the Prussian Hospice, as
I ever did " down Bast" in America, on our Atlantic board.
I might as well remark here, although from what has
nil SYRIAN a i i I M N.
already been said it has perhaps been anticipated, that
tin- crops are mature at different times, and harvestings
commence at differenl periods in differenl portions of the
Hoh Land. Thus, in the Jordan valley the wheat har-
vest begins tin' firsl of Ma\ ; while in the •• hill country"
it commences one month later; ami on the Lebanon
range it is nearly a month later still.
From what has now been said relative to the climate,
the tourist will see that, of all the seasons, spring and
autumn are left to hi- 'particular choice — and both present
their respective advantages. 1 cannot speak experiment-
ally <>f them, but a favorite author says: "The autumn,
perhaps, is more uniformly 'fair' than the spring; but
then nature wants its bloom. The autumn in Syria is
charming. Nothing can surpass the balminess of the
air: and dwellers in tents may laugh at the thoughts of
damp. There is no danger of muddy roads or swollen
river-: but 1 would recommend the wayfarer to carry a
water-bottle at his saddle, for it is a thirsty season. Au-
tumn has another charm — it is the vintage season; and
where is tic man who does not long to taste the grapes
of • Lebanon9 and pluck the bunches of 'Eshcol?"
(Mir party was there in the spring, and I must say I
was '/"</■' than i>I><is<<1 with that season. It is true, we
erienced many changes of temperature; but on the
whole in most pleasant, and one wherein Ave can
view sacred Palestine in it most beauteous garb, give me
-priir_r. While in Jaffa, we plucked ripening oranges from
the heavily-loaded boughs; while crossing the Plain of
Sharon we were parched with heat; while sojourning in
SUITABLE CLOTHING. '27
Jerusalem we suffered intensest cold ; and when we visited
Jordan we endured the most terrific warmth I ever expe-
rienced. Thus it is. Yet, generally speaking, during
the spring the air is clear and balmy, and should be pre-
ferred, in my humble estimation, as the season for an
Eastern tour.
Something should be said about dress, but I scarcely
know what. Our party was not scrupulous in regard to
it ; yet those who intend making a more prolonged tour
might perhaps be instructed to some advantage relative
to this point. For such persons we copy the following
paragraph, assuring them it comes from a source meriting
the fullest confidence. " In selecting a suitable dress for
Syria, the mode of locomotion should be first considered.
The saddle is the only conveyance — a comfortable riding-
dress is therefore the best for ordinary wear. Every
English gentleman knows that ' tights' of strong cord, or
close-fitting pantaloons of heavy tweed, with long boots
drawn over them, enable one to bear rough rides with
more ease. Perhaps if the pants next the saddle were
covered with soft leather, like those of the ' Horse Guards,'
they would be still more comfortable and more durable —
an important consideration in a long tour. The coat
ought to be short and made of substantial light-colored
tweed or shepherd's plaid. It is a great mistake to wear
linen or any other thin material. The body is thus
exposed to the direct rays of the sun ; the skin becomes
parched, perspiration is checked, and fever or diarrhoea
is the result. Woollen cloth is a non-conductor, and when
we are protected by it, the sun's rays fall harmless. The
S U I T A B L 1 CLOTHING.
best bal i~< the broad-brimmed white or drab ' felt.' The
crown may be thicklj padded internally with cotton, and
five or >i\ folds of white muslin or calico may be advan-
tageously wound around the exterior. Lightness and
protection from the sun arc the grand requisites. A pair
of drab leather gloves and wire 'goggles,' with fronts of
en glass, will complete the costume. Many throw
«>\ er the whole a \\ bite Arab barnus of very thin material,
and this affords additional protection against both heat
and dust."
From the above paragraph we may gain a full and
comprehensive idea of all that is required. Our party.
however, went just according to circumstances, and chiefly
with a due regard to the existing state of each person's
wardrobe — following this general rule, however, — wear
flu worst wt had. Lei me say this, however, as a warn-
ing to those who may wish to become oriental at once —
beware of adopting the nativi costume. To one especially
who is ignorant of the language, such a procedure is
simply ridiculous, and calls forth quiet laughter from
Mohammedan, Turk, and dew. An Englishman, fresh
from the fogs of London, or the fields of Yorkshire; or
an American, raw in republican manners, from the dust
of New Xork, or from the plantations of Georgia, appears
in eastern regalia much about the same as the long-eared
animal of the fable in the skin which once covered the
king of beasts. Xburown dress is a safeguard to you, as
in it you will be submitted to no embarrassing position on
account of lang and moreover it coupled with a
courteous yet firm demeanor, which, 1 am glad to say,
SHOES LEARNING THE LANGUAGE.. 29
generally characterizes English and American travellers,
will insure you a respect which it were otherwise difficult
to command. A great many travellers in the East — but
only those who stay there for a considerable length of
time — provide themselves with overshoes, to slip off when
they enter a mosque in Egypt or a church in Syria. You
never tread with the same boots, which you have worn in
the streets, on the costly carpets of an Eastern dweller ;
for these carpets the Muslem touches with his lips not
less than three times a day, as he pays his orisons at the
shrine of Allah. In going into the little chapel which
covers the so-called tomb of Jesus in the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre, we are requested to take our boots off,
whether or not we wear overshoes ; in our case, however,
we did not incommode ourselves at all. We were, on that
account, the cynosure of all eyes. For my part, I was
sorry that we had omitted to follow this observance to
the strictest letter. Many ill feelings are thus engendered
by foreign travellers, and I always prefer to respect and
pay heed to certain social and national habits — whereby I
am sure much wrould be saved and nothing lost. We
wished to carry out the observance, but our guide insisted
that it was not necessary with us.
It is foolish, for one who simply designs a tour through
the country, to attempt to learn the language either
before they commence the journey or after they arrive in
Syria. They will find it a difficult undertaking — a few
words in common speaking may be as well picked up
when you are once in the country as before. In any
case, you are compelled to get a dragoman, on whom you
MEANS OF LOCOMOTION.
throw the whole burden of language. Those who ran
travel Palestine without a dragoman, can do the same,
and with less inconvenience, withoul language. Syriac,
the ancient tongue of the land, is now almost obsolete,
being retained only as the ecclesiastical tongue among
the Maronitea and Dimes, who dwell amid the crags of
the Lebanon range.
A more necessary item, however, inasmuch as it con-
cerns the traveller's personal comfort, should be his
manner or means of locomotion; and hire the choice is
not extensive, nor the selection large. Yon have at your
disposal — a donkey and a /t<>r*> . A good donkey is better
than a /«/</ horse; yet, as an article for travel, speaking
generally, the horse is far preferable, on account of his
more dignified gait ami steadiness of action. The donkey
is a pleasant <.r<li<in<i< for a short ride — as from Cairo to
the Pyramids; bul lor constant use and for rides, day
after day. a horse, and a spirited one at that, should be
chosen. Ladies may prefer a donkey — but the pace of
that animal is too uncertain, too nervous, to suit a man.
<)n long jaunts, a kind of sedan chair is sometimes made
for tht; weaker Bex, though I never saw one \\^^\. A
it deal has heei] said in guide-books, and much stress
laid on the matter, that a good saddle — an English saddle
— should he among the first articles -elected. From
what 1 had heard of the Arabian saddle, I imagined it
a new form of Oriental torture, wherein a poor devil
might Bit and agonize t<> surfeiting — in fact, a well
devised, though modernl) invented, addition to inquisi-
torial racks. I must say, in all candor, never, in all my
ARABIAN SADDLES — WEAPONS. 31
life, was I more deceived — and never more rapidly dis-
appeared ominous misgivings from any man's mind than
from mine, as I eased gradually down in my Arab seat
in Jaffa, and — found a most delightful saddle under me.
The stirrups can be lengthened to suit each particular
rider, without the trouble of dismounting ; and to any
one who, like myself, for example, has been accustomed
to all manners — conveniences and inconveniences of horse-
back riding with the American and Spanish saddles, and
even bare-back — I am sure the Arab seat cannot prove
disagreeable. On the whole, I will say, do not distress
yourself concerning saddles : the supply — of good ones,
too — is equal to the demand.
As many parts of Syria are not altogether unfrequented
by banditti — or rather, robbers in the shape of roving
Bedaween, who take up their avocation and drop it at any
moment — it might be perhaps highly important to carry
visible weapons of defence. In many cases personal
safety is dependent on arms, and throughout Syria their
well-known power awakens a moral effect which adds
much to your respect and enhances tenfold your prowess.
Do not pay any particular attention to your arms when
you are on the road or in the presence of Arabs ; they
may determine that you are not accustomed to them, and
will surely attempt to play off a " scene" on you, which,
unless you meet it promptly, may lead to something
worse. I would recommend a large Colt's revolver, navy
size. It is a showy weapon, and in case of danger an
ever-constant friend. This pistol is well known in Syria
MORAL EFFECT OF A 1; M S.
for its deadly accuracy, but it La seldom possessed h\ the
nath es.
To show the moral effed of arms. 1 will relate an
instance. One day, while in Jerusalem, I chanced to
the Place of Wailine, on the site of Solomon's Tern-
pie. With my companions, 1 was duly impressed with
the place and the hallowed associations its presence
awoke — and wishing a souvenir, 1 struck a small piece
from an ancienl flag-stone. A Jew who saw the act rushed
up towards me very fiercely, and commenced jabbering
something of which I was most blissfully ignorant. To
this 1 replied nothing; but when 1 saw the fellow handle
the haft of his knife very suspiciously — glance at it signi-
ficantly, and then at me — I understood him perfectly.
Throwing open my coat, which had been buttoned, I
showed him the butt of a heavy pistol in my belt, and
looked as bold as circumstances would allow. It was
sufficient ; the poor fellow started back as if in surprise;
and. after eyeing my pistol for a moment curiously and
lily, he made a profound salaam, and retired.
CHAPTER III.
WOULD advise the traveller journeying through
Syria to lay in simply a small package of medicine.
The changes in temperature may produce chills and
fever; and differences in air, diet, water, and heat
of the sun often produce a distressing diarrhoea. But the
most frequent and most troublesome affection is Eastern
ophthalmia. Many writers have spoken of this, and many
medical men have attempted to explain its cause particu-
larly ; but, as Desmarres of Paris says, " like others of a
former day, we are acquainted with very little concerning
this disorder." Some nitrate of silver and sulphate of
zinc should be taken along for this disease; the former to
be used in a solution of one and a half grains to the
ounce of water — apply to the globe and lids of the eye
three times a day. If that should fail, take the whites of
two eggs and a wineglass of water — stir well together,
and add twenty grains of sulphate of zinc finely powdered.
With this wash the eye repeatedly throughout the day.
These remedies will be found efficacious. Of other medi-
cines, one might carry sulphate of magnesia, tincture of
catechu or kino, paregoric elixir, and some powdered
rhubarb; these will be found sufficient. The diarrhoea
may be treated thus : first, thoroughly cleanse the bowels
3 (33)
; 1 MEANS OF I N sr R i \<; I! K A l, Til.
by a lull dose of sulphate of magnesia or rhubarb, or both
combined (tablespoonful of former — twelve grains of lat-
ter) ; then give tincture catechu or paregoric.
I think Syria — or thai pari of the Holy Land, 1 should
Bay, towards Jerusalem, and beyond from the sea-coast —
is far from being unhealthy; a stay amid those craggy
mountains, exposed to the bracing atmosphere of the
hills, would tend to strengthen the invalid's frame and
fasten his hold on life. While our party remained in the
lh»l\ Land, we enjoyed the best of health, which was
improved during our entire sojourn. I am confident that
the exercise I underwent in the East was the means of
sat ing my life. Riding exposed continually to the rays of
the miii. however, which are generally, and especially at
midday, overpowering, of course tends to induce disease.
The use of the Turkish bath, too, in all its perfection, also
has a tendency to heighten capillary circulation, and, in-
somuch, to occasion irruptions, such as boils, prickly heat,
&c.; yet, with a meagre eye to what is prudent, this can
all be avoided. Experimentally, I cannot condemn the
bath : but, arguing from general principles, and supported
by good authority, I am induced to believe as above
stated.
A history of Syria and Palestine, of course, it is beyond
my province to write. I do not feel that I possess the
ability to add anything to the works of Josephus or to
those of other authors on the subject. A short historical
sketch would not be amiss here, however, and I avail
myself of an excellent article on the subject by the justly
celebrated author of ;i Five Years in Damascus." Nothing
SKETCH OF PALESTINE. 35
original can be said ; and what I may present, or what
other writers could add, would be nothing more than a
repetition of facts couched in different words. The Bible
is perhaps the best history of Syria and Palestine ; Jose-
phus gives us the best history of the Jews and their wars.
Two verj' fine works, however, which will well repay
perusal, can be consulted by those who wish to add still
more to their historical knowledge of the Holy Land —
" Prideaux's Connexion of the Old and New Testaments,"
and " Jahn's Hebrew Commonwealth." In studying the
history of this favored as well as accursed of all lands,
we will find an uniqueness not only as regards the country
itself — its unparalleled geographical and geological pecu-
liarities— but we also notice the same uniqueness as
regards the country as a theatre of action. This land
was the chosen of God to be the stage whereon all the
trying scenes of man's redemption were to be enacted.
It was in this land that Jehovah twice gave religion unto
a sinning world — first, when Moses received the written
tablets amid the thunderings on Mount Sinai — and
secondly, when, the world was reeking with sin and
degradation, God gave his only-begotten Son, a propitiation
for the errors of others. It was here lived every prophet
who foretold what afterwards was accomplished through
Jesus Christ. It was here amid the hills of Palestine
that the light of science shed its first glare abroad. It
was here emanated that religion at one time opposing
Assyrian superstition and idolatry, and at a later period
Roman voluptuousness and effeminacy — which has Chris-
tianized mankind — which has spread its blessings over
36 dam a son s.
the broad prairies of America, and amid the deep jungles
of Farther India ami China. Here lived the purest specir
m< i< of the man, in the very fullest 'perfection — and here
dwell at this moment sonic of the vilest representatives
of the great human family. ••The Saviour himself was
horn in Bethlehem, was brought up in Nazareth, dwelt
in Capernaum, was baptized in the Jordan, raised Lazarus
from the dead in Bethany, was crucified in Jerusalem, and
ascended to heaven from the Mount of Olives." Such is
this holiest of Holy Lands! — how replete with interest —
how overwhelming in associations!
History tells us that long before Greece had a name, or
Koine a written record, the Phoenicians were famed in
the arts and in commerce. Their mariners sailed over
the "great sea." and were the first sailors who ever made
the sea-faring life a calling. They won for their small
country the title which England now peacefully enjoys —
th<- "queen <>t' the sea." The former splendors of Tyre
and Sidon, and the wasteful extravagance of beautiful
Damascus, well attested, in by-gone days, what Phoenicia,
and tin- subjacent region of Syria, then was. Damascus
ha- '>•>,■ remained << city. Four thousand years ago, it
was founded by Aram, a grandson of Noah; it speedily
grew to magnificence. To-(.f(iy, it is one of the fairest
Bpots on earth, and serves as the connecting link between
patriarchal and modern times. The former power and
gaudy pomp of Jerusalem — long before it fell by the
warring hand of Titus — with its many gates and splendid
edifices — among them, one, the most glorious and magnifi-
cent work of man's creative genius — Solomons temple —
SYRIAN HISTORY. 37
all show, more strongly than pen can write, what this
land and city was. Alas ! what is Jerusalem now ?
" Reft of thy sons, amidst thy foes forlorn,
Mourn, widowed Queen — forgotten Zion, mourn !
Is this thy place, sad city — this thy throne —
Where the wild desert rears its craggy stone?"
" The earliest notices of Syrian history are found in
the Bible, which is, at once, the most ancient and the
most authentic of all histories. The whole land appears
to have been divided, by the nature of its first settlement,
into two sections. The first, extending from the plain
of Bashan, to the heights of Amanus, was colonized by
the family of Aram, the son of Shem, and called by his
name, Aram. But, as the possessions of this tribe
included also the plains of Assyria, on the east, the
western division was named Aram-Damesk, ' Aram of
Damascus' (2 Sam. viii. 6). In every passage of the Old
Testament scriptures, where the word ' Syria' appears,
the Hebrew is 'Aram :' (See Jud. x. 6 ; 1 Kings x. 29 ;
xi. 25, &c.) . Damascus was the first capital of the province.
Subsequently, the province was subdivided ; and thus, in
the days of David, we find ' Aram-Maachah' — a district
around the fountains of the Jordan, at the base of Her-
mon (1 Chron. xix. 6 ; 2 Sam. x. 6-8) ; ' Aram-Zobah' —
a district most probably extending from the right bank
of the Orontes, towards Aleppo and the Euphrates (2
Sam. x. 6 ; viii. 3-5). Both these, however, were
included in ' Aram-Damesk,' so that, as Isaiah says, the
'Head of Aram is Damascus' (vii. 8). To this, corres-
ponds also the Syria Damascena of Pliny and the Roman
38 DESCENDANTS OF CANAAN.
;raphers, Aram-Damesk formed, for a long period, a
irate kingdom, which, under the royal line of Badad,
often waged successful wars against the Israelites (2
Chron. xxiv.). It was finally overthrown by the As-
syrians, under Tiglath-pileser, in b. c. 750 (2 Kings xvi.
9). Tlic name * Syria' is, probably, derived from'Tsur'
or • Sur" (Tyre). The Greeks first became acquainted
with that ancient city, and then applied its name some-
what indefinitely to the country .
•• The second division of the country, including Gilead,
all Palestine west of the .Ionian, and the mountain-range
northward to the mouth of the Orontes, was colonized
by the descendants of Canaan, the son of Ham. They
never appear to have been united under one chief, or to
have acknowledged the pre-eminence of one royal city;
but were divided into a number of tribes or clans, not
unlike those of the Scottish Highlands. On the south,
were the Anakim, -a people great and tall' (Deut. ii. 10;)
and probably related to these, were the Emims and other
_ jrantic races on the east of the Jordan (Id.). The
Amorites, who came in, or rose to power, at a later
period, conquered, and finally exterminated, these giants.
Besides these, then- was a host of petty tribes scattered
r the land, from the Jebusites on the south, to the
Hamathites and Arvadites on the north. The Philis-
tine.-, also descendants of Ham. emigrated from Egypt at
a later period, and settled in the plain along the coast,
on the Bouth-west frontier. The}- were enterprising and
warlike, equally feared and hated by the Israelites.
They obtained a firm hold of a section of the country,
THE CANAANITES. 39
and gave to it a name which it retains to our day —
Palestine.
" Of all the aboriginal inhabitants of this country, the
Phoenicians — or Canaanites, as they are called both in
the Bible (Jud. i. 31, 32), and on their coins — were the
most remarkable alike for their independence, their
power, and their enterprise. The principal part, if not
the whole, of this people were descended from Sidon, the
oldest son of Ham ; and the city of Sidon was the first
centre and seat of their power. From it colonies went
out to Tyre and Arvad ; both small islands, and thus well
adapted for commerce. The whole coast, from Casius to
Carmel, soon became subject to them ; and from hence
they extended their influence and commerce along the
shores of the Mediterranean, and through the islands that
dot its surface. Carthage, the rival of Rome, was a
Phoenician colony ; and so also was Cadiz, on the shores
of the Atlantic. They had commercial intercourse with
every kingdom of the known world. From every coun-
try they imported its peculiar products to be manu-
factured or bartered in their rich marts. They visited
Persia and India, Africa and Russia, Italy and Spain ;
and a few hardy adventurers even penetrated to that
little isle of clouds and terrors — the far distant Britain.
The Phoenicians and Damascenes long held between them
the whole northern part of Syria. Phoenicia attained its
greatest power about b. c. 1050 ; and it enjoyed uninter-
rupted prosperity for full 500 years. It was at last forced
to submit to the sceptre of Alexander the Great.
" In the 15th century before the Christian era another
l SB \ l l.i i ES l- \ K i: POSSESSION
tribe or nation appeared upon the stage of Syrian history,
and totally changed the state of affairs in Palestine. The
Israelites, having completed their weary term of wander-
ing through the wilderness of Sinai. Suddenly descended
from the mountains el' Moab to the banks of the .Ionian,
more than half a million strong. The lame of their
exploits and miraculous deliverances had long preceded
'.hem; and the Canaanites. though inured to Avar, trembled
at the thought of this Heaven-led foe. The Israelites
themselves came on in confidence, feeling that God would
assuredly give them the • Promised Land.' Gilead and
Bashan on the east were first taken; then the waters of
the Jordan were miraculously opened for them, and they
entered Palestine. A war of extermination was waged,
and the people were soon settled in their new possessions.
The • Land of Promise' extended from the Arabian plain
to the 'Great Sea.' and from the Desert of Sinai to the
'entering in of Hamath' (Num. xxxiv. ; Ez. xlvii.) ; but
Land of Possession' was more limited — it was com-
monly and correctly described as reaching from 'Dan to
sheba' (Jud. xxi.) Both Philistines and the Phceni-
,- remained in possession of the maritime regions.
•• From ih'' time the Israelites entered Palestine till the
appointment of Saul, their first king, their government
i pure Theocracy. God was their leader in all their
war of conquest, when the guilty Canaanites were exter-
minated or expelled. In peace, the judges were God's
representatives; in war they were His lieutenants. Their
appointment was generally communicated to them by an
express message from heaven; their great victories were
REIGN OF DAVID. 41
gained by miraculous or superhuman interposition ; their
councils were directed by visions and revelations from on
high. Their enemies felt and acknowledged this; and
were often compelled to admit that the God of Israel was
greater than all the gods. I would only allude for illus-
tration and proof to the histories of Samson, of Gideon,
of Deborah, and of Samuel (Jud. xvi., iv., and v. ; 1
Sam. vii.)
" But the Israelites demanded a king ; and in the year
b. c. 1095 Saul, a Benjamite of Gibeah, was elected.
After his melancholy death on Gilboa, David, ' the man
after God's own heart,' was called to the throne. When
he had reigned seven years in Hebron, he captured the
stronghold of the Jebusites on Mount Sion, and thence-
forth Jerusalem became the seat of government and the
capital of Palestine (b. c. 1045). His kingdom being
firmly established, he turned his attention to foreign con-
quests. The Philistines, the hereditaiy enemies and
oppressors of his people, were completely subdued. The
warlike tribes that dwelt amid the mountains of Sinai
and Edom, and that roamed over the plateaus of Gilead
and Bashan, were made tributary. His garrisons occu-
pied the chief towns of Syria; and every prince, from
the borders of Egypt to the banks of the Euphrates, was
forced to acknowledge his rule. The Phoenicians were
the only exception. They excelled in the arts of peace.
Their merchants and mariners brought the riches of the
east and west to their marts, and carried their manufac-
tures to foreign lands. David was wise as he was power-
ful. He could gain little by conquering their maritime
42 KINGDOM OF tSKAEL.
territory ; but by entering into friend!} treaties he could
ire the most important advantages to his own nation.
He therefore made a treaty with Hiram king of Tyre;
and Hiram's workmen built his palace on Zion (2 Sam.
Phoenician architects, carpenters, and goldsmiths
afterwards erected and adorned the Temple of Solomon
(1 Kings v.. vii.). Tyrian seamen navigated the fleets of
[srael to Spain, Africa, and India (Id. ix. 21; x. 11).
The power and influence which David had acquired by
his arms, Solomon employed for the acquisition of wealth
and the advancement of commerce. He built fleets at
Ezion-geber on the Red Sea. to establish a communication
with the eastern coast of Africa and the southern shores
of India (Id. ix. 26); and lie founded 'Tadmor in the
Wilderness' to facilitate the overland traffic with Assyria
and Persia (2 Chron. viii. 4).
"The building of the temple at Jerusalem made that
city the religious as well as the civil capital of the whole
land; but unfortunately the vices of royalty soon divided
the kingdom. Rehoboam, the son of Solomon, retained
only two tribes under his sceptre; while the remaining
ten elected Jeroboam, an Ephraimite, as their ruler. To
wean the people's affection from Jerusalem, and to pre-
vent the probability of reunion on religious grounds, the
latter - el up two 'calves,' one at Dan, the other at
Bethel, as symbols of Jehovah, to which his subjects
might resort for worship (1 Kings xii. 28, 2(.»). These
ibola were borrowed, as that in the wilderness had
been, from the mythology of Egypt; and, in accordance
with a custom of the Bame country, he united the ponti-
THE WARS OF ISRAEL. 43
ficate of the new establishment with the crown ; thus at
once assuming both royal and priestly power (Id. 31-33,
and xiii. 1). Jeroboam fixed upon Shechem (now Nabu-
lus) as the seat of his government. After the murder
of his son, Baasha the third king intended to remove to
Rainah, as a convenient place for carrying on an aggres-
sive war against Judah ; but he was compelled to give
up this plan (Id. xv. 17-21). Omri, the fifth from Jero-
boam, with an ambition not uncommon in the founder of
a new dynasty, built Samaria, which was thenceforth the
capital of the kingdom of Israel (Id. xv. 24).
" The wars carried on between Israel and Judah need
not here be alluded to; but I shall just glance at those
with other nations.
" The great rival of Israel was Damascus. Mutual
interests at first united them ; but jealousies arose,
excited by Judah, which led, under Hazael, to the almost
complete subjugation of Israel. But on the death of
Hazael, Syria began to decline, and Israel regained its
independence. The same power, however, which ' took
away the kingdom from Damascus,' proved fatal to
Samaria. It was captured by the Assyrians (b. c. 721),
and the people carried away captive. The conqueror
introduced colonies in their place from Babylon, Hamath,
and other cities. The colonists practised their own
idolatries ; and the country being infested with wild
beasts, they thought, according to the prevailing idea
among heathen nations, that their ignorance of the local
deity was the cause. An Israelitish priest was accord-
ingly sent to instruct them in the Jewish faith, which
11 END OF THE [SRAELITISB HON A RGB V
they appear to have, in a greal measure, adopted (2
Kings \\ii. 24-33). Such was the origin <>(* the Samari-
tans, well known in the New Testament, from our Lord's
interview with the woman at Jacob's Well. A few
families of them still exist in Nabulus.
"The kingdom of Judah survived that of Israel 133
years; ami then it, too, fell before an eastern monarch.
\ buchadnezzar, kin- of Babylon, took Jerusalem, after
an eighteen months' siege, sacked and destroyed the city,
and led the people captive to the hanks of the Tigris.
Zedekiah, the last of David's royal line, after losing his
- at Riblah, was carried in chains to Babylon {'2
Kings xxv.i. Thus ended the Israelitish monarchy, after
having existed more than five hundred years. The
i pie of Solomon fell with the city, and its sacred
jsels were afterwards used in the idolatrous banquets
of the conquerors. In the year B. c. 536, Cyrus, having
Mired Babylon, restored the Jews to liberty, and, in
twenty years more, the second temple was dedicated.
From this time till Grecian power became paramount in
Western Asia, Syria and Palestine were governed by a
Persian satrap, resident in Damascus. The Jewish high-
priest was made deputy at Jerusalem, and thus a large
amount of liberty was there enjoyed. Phoenicia was the
only province thai rebelled against the foreign yoke; but
the Persian power was too great to be resisted by a com-
mercial state. The satrap laid siege toSidon; and the
inhabitants, to avoid falling into his hands, burned the
city, their treasures, and themselves (b. c. 350). This
SIEGE OF TYRE. 45
was enough to cause the other towns to yield without a
struggle.
"The battle of Issus (b. c. 333) was fatal to the Persian
empire, and brought Western Asia under the dominion of
a new dynasty and new race. Syria, Phoenicia, and
Palestine yielded to Alexander the Great, with the excep-
tion of Tyre and Ascalon. The siege of the former city
was one of the most remarkable operations of the Grecian
conqueror. Built on an island, four hundred fathoms
from the main land, encompassed by lofty walls, and
having a fleet to provide supplies for the garrison, it was
deemed impregnable. But Alexander, with the rubbish
of the ancient city, which stood on the shore, constructed
a causeway to the island, and, in seven months, took the
place by storm. Alexander's causeway converted the
island into a peninsula, and thus it still remains. Jerusa-
lem had, in the mean time, been summoned to surrender ;
but the high-priest replied that he had sworn fealty to
Darius, and could not violate his oath. Alexander,
enraged at the reply, threatened soon to leave the city in
ashes. Accordingly, after the capture of Tyre, he turned
to Jerusalem. But when he had reached the mountain
brow commanding the city from the west, he was met by
a solemn and strange procession. The high-priest, arrayed
in his gorgeous pontifical robes, attended by a throng of
priests, in the habits of their order, and by a number
of the citizens in white, presented himself to the
astonished monarch. When he saw the high-priest, he
immediately advanced, saluted him, and adored the sacred
name inscribed on his mitre. This singular conduct he
Ml \ \N mi i; SPA RES •! ERUSA LEM.
thus explained to his followers: •! adore no1 the man,
l>ut the God with whose priesthood In' is honored. When
1 was at Dios, in Macedonia, pondering how to Bubdue
Lsia, 1 Baw this figure in a dream, and lie encouraged me
to advance, ami promised that In- would give me the
Persian empire. I take this as an omen, therefore, that
1 have undertaken the expedition by a divine command,
I that 1 Bhall completely overthrow the empire of
Persia.' Tin' .lews then received many important im-
munities. The Samaritans were not so fortunate, for,
in consequence of an aci of cruelty, they were expelled
from their ancient capital, and forced to take refuge in
Shechem, where they still dwell.
"On the death of Alexander his vast empire was thrown
into confusion: and his generals, left without a leader,
desired, each by himself, to wield the sceptre of the con-
queror. After twenty years of war, something like order
was restored, and four new kingdoms were established.
With two of these only are we concerned — that of the
Ptolemies in Egypt, to whom Palestine and Coelesyria
e assigned; and that of the SeleucidaB, who obtained
N it hern Syria. Seleucus, the first monarch of the latter
dynasty, founded the city of Antioch, which for a few
centuries supplanted Damascus as capital of Syria. This
royal line retained their sovereignty for two hundred and
lilt rs, and then fell before the power of Rome.
Qnder the mild and encouraging rule of the Ptolemies,
the inhabitants of Palestine lived for more than sixty
years. Then, however, as wars were waged between the
- eucidse and the Ptolemies, this unfortunate province
JERUSALEM PILLAGED BY APOLLONIUS. 47
became the theatre of every contest, and alternately the
prey of each dynasty. Near the close of the third cen-
tury b. G. it was wrested from the feeble hand of the infant
king of Egypt by the Syrian monarch ; and the change
was fatal to the peace, and almost to the existence of the
Jewish nation. In the year b. c. 170 Antiochus Epiphanes
plundered Jerusalem, and defiled the Temple. Two
years afterwards, when the Jews had been driven to
rebellion by cruelty and murder, he sent his general
Apollonius to complete the work of destruction. He
arrived at the Holy City ; but his fearful errand was not
suspected. He remained quiet until the Sabbath, on
which day, it was known, the Jews of that age would
not fight even in self-defence. The soldiers were then let
loose, and scoured the streets, slaughtering all they met.
The women and children were spared — to be sold into
slavery. Every street of the city, every court of the
Temple, flowed with blood. The houses were pillaged,
and the city walls laid prostrate. Having strengthened
the fortifications of the citadel on Zion, Apollonius placed
his garrison there to hold the Temple under command.
Neither priest nor layman was permitted to approach
the sacred precincts. Then, for a time, ' the sacrifice and
oblation ceased,' and Jerusalem was left desolate. A
decree being shortly afterwards promulgated that all
under the sway of Antiochus should conform to Greek
idolatry, the Temple was dedicated to Jupiter Olympius,
and the altar of God polluted by sacrifices offered to an
idol.
" But the savage cruelty and mad policy of the Syrian
{^ Til i: BOM A N 0ONQ1 EST.
monarch at last roused the .lews to revenge. The
priestly family of the Asmoneans headed a aoble band,
who resolved to drive from their country the murderers
o( their kindred, and the blasphemers of their Cod, or
die in the attempt. For twenty-six years the contest
continued; and within that period Judas Maccabaeus and
his brothers succeeded in establishing the independence
of their country, and the supreme authority of their
house, after destroying more than two hundred thousand
of the best troops of Syria. Accordingly, with the year
B.C. L43 the Jews commenced a new era, which is used
by Josephus, and in the first book of Maccabees. This
independence, however, must be considered more as the
enjoyment of their own faith and laws under a native
chief, than as perfect freedom from foreign control. It
was 1 1 « » t so much for absolute independence as for liberty
of conscience the Jews had fought. The disturbed state
of the Syrian empire, and the wars of rival monarchs,
contributed much to the tranquillity of Judsea, and ena-
bled its warlike princes to extend their territory. At the
conclusion of the reign of Alexander Jannseus the king-
dom of Judaea included the whole of Idumaea, Gadara,
Gaulonitis, and a part of Ituraea; while on the north it
extended to I 'armel, Tabor, and Scythopolis. In this
Btate the Jews remained until the conquest of the whole
country by the Romans, when they were made to pay a
heavy tribute, still, however, retaining their own rulers.
In the year B. c. 34 the last prince of the Asmonean line
- murdered by the Roman prefect of Syria, and Herod
tin- Great made king of the Jews. In a. d. G Judaea was
THE MOHAMMEDAN CONQUEST. 49
placed under the government of a Roman procurator ;
but the Herodian family continued to exercise royal
authority over a part of Central Syria until the time of
Agrippa, the last of the line, when the Jews revolted
against Rome, and brought upon themselves that fearful
war which ended in the capture of their city, the final
destruction of their Temple, and the slaughter of more
than a million of their race. Judaea was now attached
to the province of Syria ; and soon afterwards the whole
of Syria and Palestine was placed under the direct domi-
nion of a Roman prefect, Antioch being the seat of
government.
" In this state, the country continued under the Roman
and Byzantine empire, until its conquest by the Moham-
medans in A. d. 634. The only circumstances worthy of
notice, in a sketch like the present, which is chiefly
intended to illustrate the historical geography, are the
establishment of Christianity under the first Constantine ;
and the temporary conquests of the Persians under Chos-
roes II. in the beginning of the seventh century. Christi-
anity had spread widely over the land before its establish-
ment as the religion of the empire ; and the extent, wealth,
and architectural taste of the church subsequent to that
period may still, to some extent, be seen from the
splendid ruins of the sacred edifices in the cities, towns,
and villages of Syria.
" The Arabs, under the generals K haled and Abu
Obeidah, first invaded Syria in 633 ; and only five years
afterwards the whole country was conquered, and every
city in it garrisoned by their troops. In sixteen years
4
50 r HE c i; I s.\ DES.
more Damascus was made capital of the Mohammedan
empire, which then extended from (lie shores <>f the
Atlantic to the confines of India. Syria was densely
populated. Her cities scarcelj yielded t<> any in the
world in wealth, extent, and architectural splendor.
Antioch. Damascus, Palmyra, Heliopolis, Apamea,
Bostra, A.scalon, and Caesarea, were almost
unequalled, as provincial cities, in the wide extent of the
Roman empire: but under the withering influence of
[slam their grandeur laded, and their wealth was eaten
up. Of these, five are now completely deserted; two are
mere villages; Antiocli. the capital, is little more; and
Damascus alone remains prosperous.
•• In the year 7o<> the dynasty of the Abassides was
tstablished, and the Khalifate removed first to Cufa and
then to Baghdad. Henceforth Syria became a mere
province of the Mohammedan empire. It remained
Bubject to the Khalifa of Baghdad from this period till
the middle of the tenth century, when it was taken by
the new rival dynasty of the Fatimites in Egypt.
Toward- the (dose of the following century Syria was
invaded by the Seljukian Turks, and converted into a
division of their empire. The cruelties perpetrated by
the fanatics on the poor Christian pilgrims that thronged
to Jerusalem roused the spirit of Western Europe, and
i Christian nations to the first 'Crusade' against
the [nfidels. In a short time the mail-clad barons of
Prance and England, headed by Godfrey, were seen
winding through the valleys and traversing the plains of
i. The fierce warriors of the Crescent could not
CAPTURE OF JERUSALEM BY SALADIN. 51
withstand the steady valor of the ' red-cross knights.'
Jerusalem was taken by storm; and the cruelties the
Mohammedans had perpetrated on the Christians were
now amply avenged (a. d. 1099).
" When the slaughter had ceased, and the Crusaders
had soothed their feelings by acts of devotion in the
holiest places of a holy city, the necessity of forming a
regular government became apparent. Godfrey was at
once elected first Christian king of Jerusalem. Bohemond
reigned at Antioch; Baldwin, Godfrey's brother, at Edessa;
and the Count of Toulouse at Tripoli. Thus was the
country parcelled out into Christian principalities, and
ruled by the bravest knights of Western Europe. Da-
mascus, however, withstood every assault of the Crusa-
ders ; and it is still the boast of the proud Moslem, that
its sacred precincts have never been polluted by the feet
of an infidel ruler since the day the soldiers of Moham-
med first entered it.
" This is not the place for a history of the Crusaders,
nor even for a sketch of the changing fortunes of the
several cities and provinces the Franks held in this coun-
try. I shall only add that they sustained a severe check
from Nur-ed-Din, a Tartar prince, who seized Damascus
and some neighboring cities. But his successor, Saladin,
was by far the most formidable opponent the Crusaders
ever encountered. After gaining a decisive victory over
the Christian army at Hattin, near Tiberias, he captured
Jerusalem (1187), and drove the Franks out of almost
every town and fortress of Palestine. Jerusalem was not
regained for more than forty years ; and even then it was
52 i \ M ERL \ n E. — ski.i m I.
only acquired by treaty. Soon afterwards Syria was
invaded by the Bhepherd-soldiers of Tartary, under Hola-
gou, tlic grandson ofGengis Khan, and the whole Christ-
ian population of Jerusalem massacred. But after the
death of this chief, Bibars, better known in Arabian his-
torj as Melek ed-Dhaher, brought Syria under the sceptre
of Egypt, and drove the Tartars beyond the Euphrates.
His victories were fatal to tin* declining power of the
Crusaders. Almost all their strongholds in Palestine
wire captured, and Antioch itself soon yielded to his
arm-. The remaining history of the Crusades is one con-
tinued tale of misfortunes. At last, in 1291, Acre was
taken by the Mamluke sultan of Egypt; and thus termi-
nated the dominion of the Crusaders in Syria.
•• For more than two centuries after this period, Syria
was the theatre of fierce contests, carried on between the
shepherd-hordes of Tartary and their brethren, the Tar-
tar-slave .sovereigns of Egypt. The most fearful ravages,
however, were committed by Timiir (Tamerlane), who
invaded the country in the year 1401. Antioch, Emesa,
Ba'albek, and Damascus were soon reduced to ashes, and
their unfortunate inhabitants either murdered or sold into
slavery.
••In lol". Syria and Palestine were conquered by Sul-
tan Selim I. ; and from that time until our own day, they
have formed part of the Ottoman empire. During this
period, though the country has been visited by few strik-
ing vicissitudes, it has steadily declined in power, wealth,
and population. The greater part of its people, oppressed
by foreign ruler-, who take no interest in commerce or
IBRAHIM PASHA. 53
agriculture, have sunk into the condition of helpless and
hopeless slavery. What little energy and spirit remain,
are exhausted in party feuds. In 1832, Ibrahim Pasha
conquered the country for his father, Mohammed Aly.
The iron rule of that wonderful man did much to break
down the fanatical spirit which had for ages been a curse
to the people. In 1841, through the armed intervention
of England, Syria was restored to the Porte."
CHAPTER IV
^TT HE present inhabitants of Palestine present a queer
VJ) specimen of a race — a mongrel population, in
fact — ;l commingling, to a greater or less extent,
of the early Syrians of the infant years of Christ-
ianity and the wild Arabs who came in invading armies
under their mighty leaders, the wealthy "Khalifa of the
East." These latter intermarried, and the present modern
Inhabitant of Syria bears traces to this day of that amal-
gamation. This intermarriage, however, could not have
existed to a great extent, for the Christian and the Mo-
hammedan Arab differ scarcely at all in feature, but owe
their distinctive mark to their dress; the original type of
the nation is but Blightly altered, and is in all cases dis-
cernible.
In travelling through Syria, the tourist must be struck
with the ease, grace, and uobleness of manner observable
in the Arab — the wild, untutored son of the desert. Go
wherever you may in the Holy Land, and these peculiar
traits of character yon will always see; they are inherent,
and uone the less valuable qualities. Eowever unlettered
},j„ mind — however vagrant his associations and associ-
ates— however barbarous his tribe and however desolate
or barren his desert or his mountain home — the Beddwy
(54)
ARAB POLITENESS. 55
is ever noble in bearing — ever easy in the presence of
others higher in social life, and always assiduously polite
to all who may chance to cross his path. Never more
was I struck with this, than when our good Sheikh, an
illiterate but not ill-mannered Beddwy, visited us in Jeru-
salem at the Prussian Hospice. We invited him to par-
take of breakfast with us, wishing to see for curiosity's
sake how he would behave himself, and to what purpose
he would apply his knife and fork ; for with these he was
not burdened at home in his black goat-skin tent. I made
it my especial business to watch him. He accepted our
invitation, after a little urging, in a most polished and
courtly manner — showing himself, immediately, as one of
" Nature's noblemen." Before he seated himself, he scru-
pulously washed his hands; and having most devoutly
said his prayers, he took his seat with as much quiet and
as little awkwardness as if he had, for many years, loitered
in the palaces of the rich and the powerful. I saw him
regard his knife and fork with a quizzical look, and then
cast a quiet, quick glance around the table, as if seeking
information. Having satisfied himself how the inconve-
niences were used, he handled them with an ease and skill
that would have done credit to an experienced caterer.
Nothing is more impressive than Arab politeness, espe-
cially when shown in their salutations. The right hand
laid first on the heart, then on the lips, finally on the
forehead, speaks in a language more eloquent than tongue
can articulate — the Language of Gesture. Sometimes,
when high esteem is felt for a person, they press the lips
to the hand ; and in some cases of extreme reverence,
■»l» AK A B POL] I 1
:n esL
thr\ kiss the feet ks regards American travellers, or
foreigners generally, it is besl courteously yet firmly to
forbid this, giving, for refusing this testimonial of respect,
the best reasons of which you arc master. The fact is, they
Beldom expect that you will permit this ceremony, though
they are apparently willing to show the extent of their
esteem by this significant method. If the truth must be
told, however. Arab politeness, ready and native as it
may be, is made up of meaningless expressions, just as
the civilities of other nations — the French, par example,
which are in such general use that we may well consider
them stereotyped. And, in the same manner, all Ins un-
bounded offers of kindness and extravagant manner of
giving you any and everything he has simply for the love
>f you, and not for money, are empty protestations. As
an example : the Arab merchant, when asked the price
of a most costly article, frequently replies, nothing, if you
desire it — for others, however, he would demand such and
Buch (naming a most exorbitant price) — but you can have
it for love — it is not the money that he requires of you.
/£ wan of such ae these j do not take these lying venders
at their word, or you will rue it. One old fellow, from
whom I was endeavoring to buy a narghileh, offered me
nut only the lmrghileh. but his entire stock in trade, his
-hop. his dwelling-house, half of his hareem, all of his
money, and. in addition, promised to be my slave/or ever
<ti,, I ,ii/> .' but. before I left he had recanted — sold me the
uarghileh — and — cheated me out of eight francs !
There are a certain class of bigoted old fellows —
Muslems — however, who are not guilty towards Chris-
FONDNESS FOR TITLES. 57
tians — I mean, now, foreigners from any country — of
any politeness at all. The Muslem of this class is plain
and straightforward ; he can not smother his disgust for
an " Infidel" or a " Frank dog," which are but synonymes,
in these far-off lands, for "Christian." Woe be unto the
unlucky traveller who, priding himself on his knowledge
of Arabic, scanty or ample, should say to one of these
stiff-necked, prejudiced Orientals, " Saldma '' 'Aleikum /"
(peace be with you) . A Christian has no right, in their
eyes, to invoke even peace on one of the Chosen of the
Faithful — and such an expression will call forth a wrath,
which is often unappeased with the tongue, as the only
weapon. Those, therefore, who wish a smooth sea, had
better nurture this hint, and avoid the offending expres-
sion. It is well, too, perhaps, to remember that this
expression must not be returned by a Christian, should he
chance to be addressed by one of these of the particular
kind. He must choose something more suitable from his
vocabulary, if he can command it. If he fail here, a
profound salaam — a mumbling of some words, in which
" Allah" might be advantageously distributed more than
once — and a sanctified revolution of the eyes in the
socket, will be sufficient.
Another point very noticeable in regard to these
specimens of mankind, is the tendency to titles. It
breaks somewhat strangely on the foreigner's tympanum
to hear, in the narrow streets of Jerusalem, " Your Ex-
cellency"— "Your Highness," (in Arabic, of course) so
often spoken. Turning around to behold his "Excel-
lency," one's surprise is often greatly increased at the
l \ i>i PE n I'l !N I I "i T ii r. Ia i; \ B.
Right of a sqnalid Beddwy, in rags and tatters, who carries
;m old long-barrelled gun on his shoulder — and his com-
panion as squalid as himself— being the representatives
of 3 our highnesses.
The traveller Is always addressed as " Saadatak,'
which, translated, means"your Highness." As 1 have
said before, and it might as well be impressed — an Arab's
expression of politeness mean as much spoken to you, as
they do gibbered at the moon — nothing. They are used
For the occasion, and just in strict accordance to circum-
Btances. They are forgotten as soon as uttered, and their
meaning unknown, when spoken. It is well the traveller
should hear this constantly in mind — else he may be
guilty of some gross blunders — blunders which will make
him repent the day he ever saw a bazaar.
There is one remarkable trait, observable in the Arab,
and one which we must admit is to he much admired —
their fearlessness, and when fully aroused, their noble
independence. Von cannot force an Arab to do your
bidding, by any menace of which you are master — yet
you can lead these wild denizens of the desert with a
Bilken cord. And it needs no coaxing — it is as difficult
to move them in this way, as by threats. A kind,
gentle, yel dignified and firm demeanor, I repeat again, is
the all necessary element for a correct course of conduct.
>ve all tilings, if you would not rouse the sleeping lires.
of an Arab's anger, avoid high words and menacing looks
— hut. while you are kind and lenient, never allow an
undue familiarity. The Arab resembles in this respect
many of tic slaves of the Southern United States; they
RELIGIONS IN SYRIA. 59
think any appearance of familiarity with them betrays
weakness of mind, and they are far from being slow at
seizing the opportunity to impose on you.
The inhabitants of Syria, all, possess a religion ; it is
their chiefest and oftentimes only inheritance ; regarding
which, they are generally proud and fanatical. Each
religionist is known by some peculiarity in dress — or
rather, more properly speaking, almost every region is
represented by a different garb, and these different garbs
generally indicate different faiths. Thus the wild Beddwy
goes about almost unprotected. He has simply a large loose
abba thrown over his shoulders, while his head is covered
with a flowing cloth called the hufiyeh, which is bound in
its place with a rope of camel's hair. The gentleman
inhabitant of the city sports long flowing robes of silk, a
snow white turban, and red slippers ; the mountaineer of
the Lebanon Range wears stout short trowsers, gathered
just below the knee, and a closely fitting and light turban,
&c, &c.
The religions of the land are various, and may be stated
as follow — first, Mohammedan— second, Christians — third,
Druzes — fourth, Jews — and fifth, Turks; all are repre-
sented and all have devoted followers, each equally proud
and confident concerning his particular faith. Many
indeed are the wrangles consequent upon this bigoted
state of belief. I will briefly glance at each of these
sects, and first will consider, in inverse order, the Turks.
These in my humble opinion form the very dregs of the
land. Weak physically and morally, effeminately timid,
low, base, and dishonest (unless poor) cowardly, avari-
T 11 r I 1 R K s.
cious, extortionate — thej are indeed to be despised of all ;
ami ye\ these are the despots of the land, who grind down
with an iron heel the poor subject — the few nobleT man ! —
the rude Beddwy. Office-holding in Syria is but a name
— and a fearful narru ii is. The Turk of course (ills this
office; he who is richesl gets the Pashalic, and then lie is
at liberty to extort what he nia\ from those under him.
The pom- creatures have no one to whom they can flee
for protection — no law is there to spread over them its
guardian wing; and it is to be much wondered at, that a
revolution lias not long since broken forth and hurled
down the tyrannical rulers from their thrones. Indeed, it
is \et to he hoped that this will he an event which shall
not lie postponed an hundred years. Singular indeed
that some potent Protestant power of Europe does not take
this mighty question of man's thraldom into considera-
tion.
Whenever the Turk is poor or kept from office — the
former sure to be true unless the latter be the case — then
he i- honest and more to be respected. Indeed the best
traits of character in Syria are found among the lower
orders of society. Fortunately the rule of any pasha is
short — some one will outbid him, and then he falls a, vic-
tim to the bowstring or dagger. But while he is in office
his gains are inordinately great, no matter through wdiat
channel, or by what instrumentality obtained. It will be
aeeil then, such being the state of affairs socially and
politically, that the Turk is not overburdened with love for
country ; bo that his own ends an; advanced, he cares not
for the weal or woe of the empire, unless indeed that
THE JEWS. 61
weal or woe involves him. The necessary consequence
of this feeling is that nowhere do we see anything like
the work of internal improvement — the development of
natural resources — nor even a feeling manifested to that
end. Everywhere dilapidation and decay mark the
country and offend the eye ; the squalid streets of Jeru-
salem, the filth of Bethany, the poverty of Jaffa, attest
the truth that Syria is of all lands the " curst." There
is only one redeeming city, that I know of in Syria, pos-
sessing a higher grade than the generality of cities of
the Holy Land — but it is elevated by the presence of
foreign dignitaries and trade from abroad. The English
and American element has done much, morally speaking,
particularly towards elevating in the social scale beautiful
Beirut. Even in the streets of this, what might be justly
esteemed the capital of Syria, are many disgusting fea-
tures which time, aided by foreign influence, must and
will sooner or later expel.
The Jews form an interesting feature of remark in
Palestine and Syria. Nearly nineteen hundred years ago
they were driven forth from their native soil, and since that
time the peculiar cast of countenance characteristic of this
clown-trodden people has been observed in every land be-
neath the sun. How strikingly true is prophecy ! The poor
Jew yet clings to Jerusalem — his mother — with astonishing
affection ; and the many rude slabs that scar the sides of
Mount Olivet, tell piteous and mournful tales, far more
pathetically than words can portray. About twenty-five
thousand Jews inhabit Syria and Palestine, yet they are
very different among themselves in customs and manners ;.
PHE CHRIST] A N S.
those inhabiting Jerusalem, Tiberias, Safet, and Hebron,
lie all foreigners, who have wandered back to the bomes
of their ancestors, thai their dusl might repose beneath
the turf of their Long-lost and once happy land. They
number between eight and nine thousand, and are as
abject as they well can be. But many .lews living in
Damascus and other places of Syria, arc Arabs in every-
thing— in dress, occupation, customs — except in religion.
They are natives of the land, and many enjoy the highest
influence, especially as moneyed men. Yet a cruel for-
tune— a fortune incident to the race — seems to follow
en them; a Jew maybe to-day a millionaire (in Syria) —
to-morrow he may be, not only penniless, but — a, dead man.
Singular is that curse, and more strangely true — if indeed
we can wonder at the workings of the Divine Hand — is
that curse fulfilled. A case in point I find recorded in a
work (in the East which I here give. "The head of the
chief Jewish family in Damascus was, in the beginning of
'he present century, the banker and prime minister of the
notorious Jezzar, Pacha of Acre, lie was for a time the
actual ruler of a large seel ion of Syria; but the scene
- soon changed. He first lost an eye because he was
proud--- then the nose because he was handsome — then
the head because he did not please his master."
The Christians of Syria and Palestine are composed
chiefly of the members of the Greek church, and of
Papal divisions called i he (; reek-Catholic and Syrian-
Catholic schism. The Greek church predominates con-
Biderably; it numbers one hundred and sixteen thousand
— the entire Christian poj ulation amounting to three
THE GREEK CHURCH. 03
hundred and twenty-four thousand souls. They possess
the finest churches, and their ceremonies are the most
imposing of any sect in the Holy Land. The Greek
chapel in the Church of the Sepulchre, in Jerusalem, is
really a beautiful and costly chamber, and compares well
with those of Rome, Florence, and other Italian cities.
They have neither statues nor images, as we see in the
churches of Italy and of Continental Europe generally.
I did not even see a common wooden crucifix ; but they
possess many paintings, and some of the rarest style of
art. The clergy possess no college for the education of
their members, and the simple ordination is all that is
required. They have several fine schools, however, and
their course of instruction is of a high grade ; one of the
best of these schools is located about a half mile west of
Jerusalem; the building used is the old Convent of the
Cross, rejuvenated. Russia, to whom the church looks
as its grand protectress, has showered on it many kind-
nesses in the well-appearing shape of yellow gold ; it is,
indeed, that country which erects the public buildings,
and supports the schools of the Greek Church. There is
one singular condition upon which, together with certain
other requisitions, a member from the laity becomes one
of the clergy — he must marry.
The Greek Church is* simply Greek in name — Greek,
merely because its members profess *the Greek or Oriental
faith ; for almost every man is a native Syrian, as I have
taken pains to learn. The higher clergy, however, are
nearly all foreigners, and are but little acquainted with
the Arabic language. The Greek portion of this church
i'» I I' ll E M k RON! TES.
and the Greek-Catholic of the Papal schism, are the only
Beets in Western Asia which have services in their own
tongue; it is considered a greal privilege.
The Greek Church has two patriarchites — one a1 Jeru-
salem, which "includes the whole of Palestine and the
country east of the - Ionian, and lias under it the follow-
ing bishoprics: Nazareth. 'Akka (Acre), Lydda, Gaza,
Sebaste, Nabulus, Philadephia, and Petra. Among these,
the bishop of "Akka is the only prelate who resides in
his diocese; all the others in Jerusalem. The patriarch
generally resides at Constantinople." The other patri-
archite is at Antioch, the patriarch of which usually
resides at Damascus — and "includes (in Syria) the eight
bishoprics of Beirut, Tripoli, Akkar, Laodicia, Hamah,
Hum-. Saidnaya, and Tyre." These two patriarchites
are under the jurisdiction of the Primate of Constantino-
ple. The ritual of the Greek Church differs (in Syria)
from the Romish, " in the calendar — the procession of the
Holy Spirit — rejection of a purgatory — communion in
both kinds — exclusion of images from sacred buildings,
ami tie- marriage of the secular clergy" — making a num-
ber of Bix articles of difference. It is in the Greek Church,
i seel — as the reader will find farther on in this work,
that the miserable farcy deception of the holy fire is per-
formed.
The best informed men of any Christian sect in Syria,
may he found among the followers of John Maron, who
founded the order of the Maronitea ; this sect originated
about the latter part of the sixth century, I believe, and
increased greatly in numbers in a very short space of time.
THE MAROKITES. 65
Several centuries later, however, they swore allegiance to
the Pope, and have been his warmest and most faithful
friends and adherents ever since. Yet they differ in some
important points with the Latin ritual : their saint's name
cannot be found in the calendar ; any candidate for the
priesthood can marry ; and their ecclesiastical language is
Syriac.
The Maronites, although inhabiting many small and
several large towns in Syria, yet may be said to have
their dwelling-place chiefly in the Lebanon range, which,
however rough and craggy, owing to the industry and
skill of this sect, may be justly styled the "Garden of
Syria." In the deep and romantic dells, and on the lofty
and beetling brow of the flinty precipices, this bold moun-
taineer-sect lives and rears its convents and institutions
of mercy. Their Patriarch resides in the mountain gorge
of Kadisha, not far from the celebrated " Cedars." The
Maronites, in proportion to numbers, it is said, possess
more convents than any other known sect. Their bitter-
est foes seem to be the Druzes, who, though considerably
less in numbers, are far more warlike than their agricul-
tural neighbors. In Syria they hesitated not to say that
this order — the Druzes — is instigated to acts of violence
by the under-hand deviltry of the Turkish government —
what end to gain I am ignorant. Gregory XIII. founded
a college (the Holy See) in Rome for the education of the
chosen of the Maronite youth ; and two brothers, whose
joint fame alone is sufficient to raise the intellectual
standard of their church, here received their learning
5
66 T UK MOHAM M EDA X S.
.1. A. and .1. S. A.ssemans were Maronites, and were two
;>t' the most celebrated scholars and authors in the Orient.
There is a native college or high school belonging to
this order situated in the districl of Kisrawan in the
Lebanon, at a place called, if I mistake not. Win Warkah,
or. as sometimes spelt) simply Warkah. It stands well
a- a native institute. The entire number of Maronites
in the Kast rises to the figure of 220,000.
There is yet another small sect which, on account of
the paucity of its numbers, and of the insignificant rank
it holds among the other more powerful faiths, it is
almost out of place to mention; vet what there is of these
people, they are known to be a brave and industrious
(lass. I refer to the Jacobins of Syria, wrhose stronghold
is in a small town not far from Damascus, the name of
which has escaped me. Their Patriarch, who is their
head, resides in Mesopotamia; their ecclesiastical lan-
guage is Syriac, which is understood to a greater or less
extent among the people; from this fact they sometimes
style themselves Syrians.
The Mohammedans, or the real rulers of the land, form
the largest portion of the community. Their faith leads
them to look down with disdain on all other sects — to be
proud, fanatical, and overbearing. The upper class of
Mohammedans, or those inhabiting cities, are generally
effeminate and weak, physically and morally — attribut-
able perhaps to precocious marriages or excessive animal
indulgences. The Mohammedan inhabitant of the coun-
ts;/ is a different person alb gether, save in religion; he is
strong, active, energetic, and worthy of a better position
THE ANSAIRIYEH. (*,'
in life. There is one good feature observable in respect
to this sect — Mohammedans, of all classes, are very hos-
pitable; their offers of kindness are generally sincere, too.
Mohammedans are divided into several sects, chief
among which is the orthodox Mohammedan, or Sonnites
(Traditionists), "that is, in addition to the written word
of the Koran, which they acknowledge with all others,
they recognise the authority of the Sonna — a collection
of traditional sayings and anecdotes of the prophet, which
is a kind of supplement to the Koran, directing the right
observance of many things omitted in that book."
Besides the orthodox Mohammedans, there are at least
three other divisions or branches, all claiming to be the
followers of Mohammed — namely, the Metawileh, the
Ansairiyeh, and the Ismailiyeh ; the first reside in the dis-
trict of Ba'albeck, near the village of Hurmul, on the
west bank of the river Orontes, and on the southern
slope of Lebanon. They believe in Aly as the true
Khalif, and reject the Sonna, and are particularly scrupu-
lous as regards cleanliness. Their ceremonial observances
are very rigid. Too much familiarity gives decided
offence ; a dignified, upright course of conduct should be
aimed at. Our ends will be thus more readily gained. It
is said by some who are well acquainted with their habits,
that they will for ever throw aside a cup which has been
used by one of another faith — fancying contamination, of
course.
Relative to the Ansairiyeh, some doubt has existed
whether they may be classed as disciples of Mohammed
or not ; — but by the Assemanns it is stated that they are
THE DRUZ I S.
it balf Mohammed, and balf Christian. They are a
race more to he feared than liked — as their hands are
often stained with blood. They live north of the Lebanon
range near to A.ntioch. "The^ believe in the transmi-
gration of souls; and observe in a singular, perhaps
idolatrous manner, a few of the ceremonies common to
the Eastern Church." Their religion, In fine, to say as
much as we know of it. is a mystery. The same can be
I of the [smailiyeh. They are the remainsof what was
known in the time of the Wars of the Cross as Assassins.
ir capital or -rand rendezvous for the clan — for it is no-
thing more nor less — is in the mountains west of Hamah.
Druzes (el-Deruz, in Arabic) are the most import-
ant people, representing any faith, in Syria. They are
the pretended allies of England, and promised that nation,
some years ago, to become Christians. It was simply,
however, to gain the national protection of that power.
They are known to be Bcheming, and will use truth and
mendacity alike, as regards their interest and convenience.
They are quite a warlike people, and are noted for their
xi-thirstiness, especially when urged on by revengeful
motives. They occupy the southern portion of the
I. tanon range, and are represented to a small extent in
D aascus and Beveral small villages. The Druzes are
divided religiously into the 'Okkal and the Jukkal, or the
initiated and the uninitiated. The former are by far the
most influential ; the secrets of the order, the holy books,
. are kept by them only. They superintend the
secret meetings of the fraternity — which secret meetings
indeed are now thought to he Less of a religious, than of
THE DRUZES. 69
a political nature. They hate the Maronites, and arc
willing to wage war on them to the knife. One Hakim, a
notorious Egyptian of the Fatimite dynasty, it is said
first propagated the faith of the Druzes, before the tenth
century. He was followed by a wild fanatical Persian at
a still later date, who proclaimed the views of Hakim
with uncommon ardor — so much so, in fact, that his
raving fanaticism drove him from Egypt to the far off
Mt. Hermon, where in time he became the actual founder
of the Druze faith. Of this faith, mode of worship, and
tenets, we know almost nothing. De Lacy accidentally
obtained a few of their books, from which he gleaned the
following facts as regards their confession of faith — to
wit : —
" 1. The Unity of God, and his manifestation of Him-
self to men, in the persons of several individuals, the last
of whom was Hakim.
" 2. Five superior spiritual ministers always existing.
These have also appeared in the persons of men at various
periods. The chief of them were Hamza and Christ.
" 3. The transmigration of souls. The souls of men
never pass into animals.
" 4. The belief in a period when their religion shall be
triumphant — Hakim shall reign, and all others be subject
to him for ever.
" 5. The seven points of Islam are set aside, and the
following substituted: — 1. Veracity (to each other).
2. Mutual protection and aid. 3. Renunciation of
all other religions (implying persecution of others).
4. Profession of the unity of Hakim (as God). 5. Con-
70 SYRIA AND PALESTIJS E.
bentment with his works. 6. Submission to his will.
7 Separation from those in error and from demons.'
It is observed that the Druzes build their monasteries
.Hid houses of worship in retired places, though always
ispicuously, as on high hills — to gain complete privacy
I suppose. Their numbers amount to nearly 80,000.
What we mean by Syria and Palestine is that grand
section of country lying on the eastern shore of the
Mediterranean Sea. extending from the peninsula of
Sinai on the south to far off Asia .Minor in the north —
the Great Arabian Desert bounding its eastern border; or
it lies between 31 30' and 37° north latitude. Its
greatest length thus being 360 geographical miles, its
breadth 50 to LOO, and possessing an area of 28,000
ire miles. The surface formation of the country is
generally simple, though its different sections present
widely varying and different scenery. For example.
among the mountain ranges of the north, in the deep
dingles and yawning chasms of Lebanon, the landscapi
hold, striking, and grand ; while the low, flat, sand}- dis-
tricts of the south — the Plain of" Sharon for instance —
uninviting and barren in scenery. A mountain range
made of divers chains runs throughout the entire length
of the country; and uear the "entering in of Hamath."
not far from Beirut, -tern and awe-inspiring Lebanon
lifts it-elf up 10,000 feet above tin- sea, and frowns down
in sullen grandeur on those once fair and famed, hut now
sunken cities of the Plain — Tyre and Sidon, Gebal and
Berytus. What a change and a contrast these places must
now present to their magnificence and splendor long
SHARON. 71
buried beneath the wreck of rolling centuries ! It is
mournful to contemplate the miserable debris of what
these cities once were ; their glory has departed, and,
withers now beneath the curse of offended Deity, they
moulder away in the shadow of haughty Lebanon.
Grouped by themselves, solitary and completely alone,
on the highest terrace that graces the craggy slopes of
Lebanon, are the far-famed " Cedars." Their number is
now small, and the rude blasts which howl through their
white arms tell us, they too, soon will be gone.
As we come down towards the south, Philistia is spread
before us, and the broad and fertile Sharon — stretching
from the base of the southern section of the Lebanon
range for the space of one hundred and fifty miles — opens
its vast and pleasing panorama to our view. I never saw
a sterner scene of beauty than is presented in the extended
champaign of Sharon; the soil here, must even now teem
with qualities indicative of the highest fertility. Its
broad bosom sparkling with ten millions of beautiful and
many-colored flowers, presented the grandest sight I ever
beheld — truly it was the mammoth floral carpet of nature.
The ridge of the Anti-Lebanon commences twenty-five
miles east of Lebanon, and runs parallel with the latter.
Its general height is not so great as Lebanon, yet snow-
capped Hermon, belonging to the chain, rivals in grandeur
any peak in Syria. It is generally conceded that this
range terminates about eight or nine miles north of the
Sea of Tiberias. Besides these there are other mountains
of note and size — those of Gilead lying along the east of
Jordan, which join the Moab mountains in the region of
in 1: t. i; i \ r \' ami y.
the Dead Sea. It was through these cliffs the Israelites
marched ow their way to the Promised Land — and it was
from Nebo, belonging to this range, thai Moses beheld
those broad Gelds and stretching plains which he was not
permitted to enter — the land •■ flowing with milk and
honej ." V<'t another group of mountains deserves atten-
tion— that iA' Jebel Hauran, bordering on Bashan, a Long
WaV to the east of the Sea of Galilee; — on the slopes of
these mountains are many magnificent ruins, some in
the finest state of presers ation.
But without doubt the grand physical feature of the
country is the great valley running from north to south.
It seems to he the result of some grand geological convul-
sion. Antioeh. Hamath, and Emesa stood in it; and from
it went forth much of the enlightenment of those days
far gone. As far down as the valley of Coelesyria this
immense gorge actually forms the bed of the river
ates. In this valley also rests the Dead Sea — the
mystery of mysteries — whose history and correct expla-
nation of its singular phenomena have puzzled the wisest
of men. In this connection 1 am proud to say our own
country has done more towards enlightening the public
mind relative to this waveless sheet, than any other nation
the globe. (>n the far oil' shores of this desolate sea
our vernacular has been spoken, and our banner has here
floated on the breezes of Palestine. But its broad folds
covered none hut a body of working men — men who, by
sanction of their government, had gone to that distant
(dime to ;iid in distributing a quota of knowledge to the
rid concerning this wonderful handiwork of nature's
THE JORDAN. 73
God. Lieutenant Lynch and his indefatigable party have
won for themselves an enviable fame for the eminent ser-
vices they rendered to mankind, by delving into this
desolate secret of far away Judea.
Chief among the rivers of Palestine stands of course the
God-consecrated Jordan. In its waters Jesus of Nazareth
was baptized, and over it passed the hosts of the Israelites.
One of the most striking jDhysical features of the Jordan
is the fact that its level is far below that of the Mediterra-
nean. It has in reality three sources — one near the
ancient Caesarea — Philippi, on the south side of Her-
mon — the second near the western base of this mountain,
and the third on the plain of Huleh. They all three
coalesce in one, and empty into the " waters of Merom"
of the Bible. It takes its course through the little Sea
of Galilee, and continues down the great valley, of which
wre have spoken, towards the Sea of Tiberias and the
Dead Sea ; between which two localities — a distance of
sixty miles or thereabout — there is a fall of over six hun-
dred feet. Throughout its greater length the Jordan has
two separate and distinct banks, and lower down towards
its farther end it has three. Lieutenant Lynch, writing
in this connection, says — " The high alluvial terraces on
each side were everywhere shaped by the action" of the
winter rains into numbers of conical hills, some of them
pyramidal and cuneiform, presenting the appearance of
a giant encampment, so perfectly tent-like were their
shapes. * * * * The banks were fringed with the laurus-
tinus, the oleander, the willow, and the tamarisk ; and
further inland, on the slope of the second terrace, grew a
71 THE ORON rES.
small species of oak and the cedar. The arbutus was
mingled with the flowersofthe plain." The total Length,
air-line. o[' the Jordan is ninety-six miles — though should
we reckon eacb meandering, the distance would be
increased to over two hundred miles.
The Litany is a beautiful stream, and of considerable
importance. In regard to its name, some contention has
existed; some say it should be, not Litany, hut Leontes
Dr. Porter, whom I take to be the best authority on Syria
and Palestine, prefers Litany, and 1 have so recorded it.
The river has its source somewhere near the site of ruined
Ba'albek, flows its rugged way through a wild gorge in
Lebanon, and finally empties into the Mediterranean.
fifty miles from its source.
The Orontes is a fine river, and if superiority in size
should give it priority of notice, it should have been men-
tioned before the Litany: it is next in size to the Jordan.
This Btream apparently runs backwards, and hence the
Arabs call it el-Maklub (tht inverted). From the far-off
fool of the Anti-Lebanon it rises, and after turning on
itself once or twice, and running throughout its length a
most singular course, it finally and abruptly falls into the
Mediterranean Sea near Seleucida. It is longer than the
Jordan or the Litany, being about two hundred miles from
Lrce to mouth.
The fourth river is the most beautiful, and, it is said.
the most useful Btream in Syria. It is the Abana of
Scripture, or, more properly, the Barada of the Arabs.
It arises in the Anti-Lebanon, courses through the moun-
tains to the plain of Damascus, runs through this plain.
THE PHARPAR. 75
and finally empties into the lake el-Kibliyeh. Its course
is through a fertile and prosperous country (compara-
tively), and many villages border on its banks.
The Pharpar (or rather, those streams making this
river) arises at the base of Mt. Hermon, runs almost due
east, and, after a wild and picturesque course through the
Plain of Damascus, tumbles into the lake of Hijaneh.
It is a beautiful stream. Well might the haughty Naa-
man interrogatively reply to the prophet : " Are not
Abana and Pharpar, rivers of Damascus, better than all
the waters of Israel ?" (2 Kings v.)
With the end of this chapter is finished all that I
think necessary to give, in such a brief introduction as
has been spread before the reader in the preceding
chapters.
Chapter V. commences my journal, to which reference
has been made in the preface.
CHAPTER V.
At sea, Mediterranean, French ship Quvrindl.
Monday Eve, February L4th, L859.
A/7'- BIS Journal is written on the heaving bosom of the
\JL) Mediterranean. Once again my foot has left "the
dry land." and I am embarked on the wide waste
of waters! God protect me in my wanderings!
The day has been spent by me in various places and modes.
Early this morning I made final arrangements with
my passport — had it visaed — settled my bill at the
locanda — and was cheated by my rascally courier, Peti-
nelli. out of some thirty carlini, relative to my pistol
purchased for my Syrian tour. These guides are a cun-
ning set of fellows ; and. to avoid being badly imposed
od by them, the traveller must keep his eyes open and
wits about him. A few days since, I called near the
Palais Royal, at a gunsmith's, and decided to take a hand-
some pistol. Petinelli told me that I had better leave the
weapon at tin- shop until the morning I should sail, as
without a government permit I could not take the pistol
with ni" while I resided in Naples. I consented to be
guided by his advice, and deposited two Neapolitan pias-
. for bonne confiance. Never mistrusting any rascality,
! called this morning at the gunsmith's, on my way to the
(76)
FAREWELLS. 77
steamer. What was my surprise, when I was told that
Petinelli had been there, according to my orders he said.
and taken my two piastres, alleging I wished not the pis-
tol! The rascal had bid me good-bye in the morning,
before I arose, saying he had to leave early with an
American family for Capri, and had to say farewell then.
But I will remember him when I return to Naples. So
much for misplaced confidence !
I left a card of good-bye for my dear old friend — of
Paris memory, who is stopping at the Hotel d' Angleterre —
and then continued up the Chiaia, and laid in a stock of
medicines likely to be needed in the East. But the hours
wore on, and finally the time for sailing drew near; our
party said good-bye to Naples, and repaired to the wharf.
Here we were again cheated by an official, who wished
to examine our trunks. S. was quite angry, and came
near tossing the fellow into the bay ; but at last we shoved
off, and after a long pull, for the sea was rough and
angry, we reached the steamer. Here my good friend.
Frank G., who had accompanied us to the gangway, bade
us a sorrowful adieu, and kept his seat in the boat. Poor
fellow ! he hated to part with me, very much ; and loth
was I to say good-bye to him. We have been together
now so long — have traversed France, Belgium, Prussia.
Germany, and Italy together — and, moreover, he and my-
self were the first movers in this Holy Land expedition.
But it could not be helped ; a hard squeeze of the hand —
a long embrace — a smothered " God bless you !" and he
• tore himself away. 1 am in hopes he will join us at
THE QUIRINAL.
Valetta, in Malta, where u-< will be compelled to tarry
eight days. *******
Ami bo 1 have once again turned my " anxious prow"
ards a more distant land, and my back is still on my
republican country, far towards the sunset. Yes. America
has been left, the continent of Europe has sunken from
my sight, and 1 am wandering yet on the face of the deep.
The ruins of buried Herculaneum and of exhumed Pom-
— the <i\\\ ( Shiaia, and the crowded Toledo of Naples —
\ esuvius with its smoking crest and fiery cataracts, with
the placid bay spread wide at its base — are tar in the dis-
tance. Shall I ever sec them again, and wander amid
those scenes made so interesting to me by classic associa-
tion.-'.' Many miles of watery waste have to be crossed
before I again rest my eyes on that spot where rises the
tomb of the Prince of Latin poets, and God only knows
whether I shall ever again return to that city I left five
hours since.
We are on the French steamer. Quirinal, a fine boat
belonging to the line of the Messageries Imperiales; and
are comfortably fixed. We broke our wheel, or something
connected with it. about two hours since, and for a time.
there was some confusion ; hut the promptness of the offi-
- ha- enabled us to he under way again, and now we
are nobly dashing on once more. It is a wild, dark.
stormy oight, and the water is very rough. I hope the
Quirinal will lie equal to her duty. The wind whistles
in an awful manner through the rigging, and the sudden.
jerking motion indicates that the ship Labors. 1 just can
SEA-SICKNESS. 79
manage to write my journal. The sun set to-night behind
a cloud.
At Sea, -south of Messina — steamer Quirinal. 1
Tuesday, February 15th, 1859. j
This has been a most rough and disagreeable day.
Nothing but toss, pitch, and tumble. The Quirinal is
not as sea-worthy as I at first thought. She labors
heavily, and sometimes seems as if she would be knocked
abeam-ends. I hope for the best. I have not, as yet,
been sea-sick, though to-day, when leaving Messina, and
running through the famous pass of Scylla and Charybdis,
of classic memory, I came near falling a victim to the
sea-monster — so, to avoid paying tribute, I hurried on
deck, and escaped. All around me are suffering much,
and nothing but continued whoops and sighs of agony or
of relief, salute my ear as I write these words. Of course,
under the circumstances, one must be excused if his
subject-matter is not good, and the manner in which he
handles it, worse. Some think it an indication of health
to be susceptible to sea-sickness. For my part, I believe
the assertion. The motion of the ship creates an un-
natural motion, and an organ sufficiently sensitive, should
feel its effects. I am in bad health at present, and gene-
rally am never sick at sea — that is, from the rolling motion
of the ship — in other words, sea-sick. Be this as it may,
I cannot now discuss the subject. During the night
through which we have just lived, we had very rough
weather, and the briny waves dashed from stem to stern
over the Quirinal. But we survived all ; and, despite the
30 i ii i: CALABRIAN COAST.
weather, earl} this morning, we cast anchor in the har-
bor of Messina, in Sicily.
We wished to go ashore and look around, hut passport
regulations were so Btringenl as to deter us. So we con-
tented ourselves with walking the deck, and gazing at the
grand mountain ranges of the Calabrian coast, where tier
after tier rose the lofty ridges of granite, until they
ned to touch the red sky. It is a grand, wild, sublime-
appearing country, and I should like much to ramble
through its valleys, mountain gorges, and over its rocky
heights. That pleasure must be reserved for my return
trip. We laid plan on plan as to our future operations in
the East, and feel ourselves now thoroughly advised as to
our mode of action to pursue when we reach the far-off,
down-trodden land of the lost tribes of Israel. I might as
well here mention those composing our party, as they will
figure to a certain extent in this my journal, hereafter to
be filled out. My original party on the European conti-
nent have all left me now ; some to journey in other parts
of the old world, and some to return to their far-off homes
in America. The present party with which 1 am, joined
me by agreement in Naples. The one is a young Dr. S.,
from Savannah, Georgia. He is already an old friend of
mine, being my constant companion in the pest ward of
La Charite Hospital in Paris. He was to join me in
Naples, and was there punctually. He came l>y the port
of Marseilles, and while in that city he stumbled over a
German ; a nice old fellow he is. S. found out, in speak-
in- to him in his native Deutech, that Meinherr was
hound on ;i pilgrimage to the far-off Holy City — Jerusa-
LEAVE MESSINA. 81
lem. The two immediately became confreres. Meinherr
delights in the name of Johannis Montag, and is from
Berlin. So we three make the party, and a right sociable
one it is. It would be more so, were it not that Mein-
herr is profoundly ignorant of every language save his
own ; but as S. and myself both understand a smattering
of the lingo of Vaterland, we get along well enough.
On the boat, to-day, I made the acquaintance of a Mr.
G., from Texas. He is an agreeable young fellow, and
was acquainted with my brother-in-law at the West Point
Military Academy. He, his wife, and cousin are, like
myself, journeying ultimately to Syria, Palestine, and
Egypt. We sailed from the harbor of Messina this after-
noon, at four o'clock. In spite of our wishes that the storm
at sea would lull, it has continued ; and directly we were
free from the shelter of the harbor, we knew that the
weather was rough. At the hour I write (nine, p. m.) it
is yet rougher, and has every inducement, and promises
every indication, of becoming more so. Meinherr and S.
have both succumbed to stress of weather, and by unload-
ing their stomachs, are endeavoring to " right ship." I
am fearful myself of soon being laid low ; and I will take
Mr. G.'s invitation, and indulge in a rough-and-tumble
promenade on what may noiv be most properly called the
hurricane deck.
Malta Cross Hotel, Valetta, Malta. |
Wednesday, February 16th, 1859. J
After a most awful stormy, squally night, during the
long hours of which I heard more than one " Ach ! mein
Gott T from Meinherr, we arrived safely, this morning
6
82 TH I M \ IT A C ROSS HOT EL.
hi ten v. m.. in the harbor of Valetta. Malta. And here
we had to disembark. The trouble of arranging our port-
habits and Backs \\ as soon through \\ ith, and having slipped
Borne pauls into the hand of our good Bteward, Baptiste,
we took a boat, and. being thoroughly wetted by the
flying spray, finally landed on this bleak island, mid-
way between Europe and Africa. Climbing the high
bluff along the shore. 1 uever enjoyed a Lovelier, or rather
grander sighl than that which the rough, angry, dark
and white chopped sea presented, stretching out as far as
the eye could reach. I gathered some flowers which were
blooming plentifully around, and was struck by their
-wet odor. Under the guidance of Michele Pisanni,
alter climbing the steps in the street of Santa Lucia, we
entered this — the Malta Cross Hotel, kept by the indi-
vidual mentioned. After much wrangling between us,
all three being determined to frown down cheating of
every description, for which we were warned native
Maltese are noted, we finally concluded to take rooms.
We are now most comfortably fixed, and, as Meinherr,
ed over the other side of the spacious hearth, mutters
something about " Gott in himmel!" 1 suppose he is return-
a thanks to the A 11- Wise, and agrees with us that it is
more pleasanl here, with the odor of a oice siipper steal-
! through the closed door, than it was in the wet cabin
<>!' the pitching Quirinal. Even already, our future
destination is known, and we have been bored and vexed
very much hy guides who wish us to take them as drago-
men, to Berve US in our Syrian trip, and we fourteen
hundred miles from Jaffa! Completely ignorant, how-
COLD WINDS. 83
ever, as }^et, how to proceed, and not believing a single
word they say, we are undecided how to act. In looking
over the recommendations of one of these fellows, I was
surprised to see the name of J. H. S., Philadelphia, —
a gentleman I know well, at sight. This is no spurious
recommendation, at all events. I have sent to Mr. G.,
of Texas, who has stopped at a different hotel, to see if
he will unite with our party in taking said dragoman.
At last we are started, and fairly too, on our expedition —
nothing, now, can turn us back. It is my haven of travel-
ling desire, at all events, to stand under the shadow of
the Temple, and walk the streets of the City of the Great
Kinsf. 'Tis singular — ha ! what is the matter ? S. insists
it is time to retire to our chambers, and Meinherr simply
ejaculates, though he knows nothing of English, under-
standing S. by intuition, I suppose — "Ja, ich bin sehr
schlafrig also — Gott in him m el /" and so I must close,
though I feel like scribbling more, inasmuch as Morpheus
has not yet claimed me as his subject, and I am seated
by a most genial fire. The cold winds that creep up the
narrow street out there, seem inconsistent with the gay
flowers blooming on the beach, and with the ripe fruit —
oranges that fill the fruit-stands in the streets. Another
most decided and prolonged twanging yawn from Mein-
herr's capacious jaws, once more reminds me that soon it
will be time to sleep.
Malta Cross Hotel.
Thursday, February 17th, 18-59.
The close of this day finds me once again at my Jour-
nal. It is often my solace and only comfort !
s I HERR MONT AG.
A.nd so we have spent one whole day in Malta! Wo com-
menced operations this morning, or rather operations were
commenced by S., who awoke me, saying I was talking
rets in my sleep. 1 thanked him, and arose. We
descended to breakfast, much refreshed by our slumber, and
soon, Meinherr, who had risen long before we had. and had
attended matins, came in, his lace radiant with rosy tints.
gained bj exposure to the frosty atmosphere, and
wreathed with smiles — the effect of the pleasant sight
of the Ejood meal before us. Herr Montae is a strict
religionist in his peculiar faith, Roman Catholic, and
never Lets an opportunity pass unimproved when he can
bend his knee to the Holy Virgin. He is travelling to
Jerusalem, he it known, for the .sole purpose of devotion
during the coming Easter holidays, when the Holy City
i- thronged with palmers from every land. Some two
months ago. Meinherr fell sick, and came nigh unto death.
His sixteen years of huzzar life, in camp and field, had
tended to estrange his thoughts from his Maker, and
Meinherr sagely inferred his sickness was a Providential
visitation, and made a sacred vow, should he be spared
this time, he would do penance for his evil deeds, in
the Church of the Boly Sepulchre in Jerusalem, lie is
on his way to fulfil that vow now. and it will remain to
me, I hope, to record in this journal that good Meinherr
lived up to his vows.
Having finished a mosl substantial breakfast, we sallied
out to lake ;i look ;it the fine old town of Valetta, called
after the gallant Templar, who so nobly defended it
from the Turkish forces in L565. We were
MALTA. 85
much struck with the means of defence in the shape
of fortification on fortification, rising on each other,
until nothing is seen from a short distance but the dark
mouths of cannon with which the ramparts bristle.
Malta, geographically, is situated finely for an insular and
commanding fortress. Gibraltar is the key to the entrance
of the Mediterranean ; but Malta, accessible easily to " three
quarters of the globe, and having its situation in the cen-
tre of the Middle Sea,''' is the key to the sea itself, and
the shores of the rich countries bordering thereon. Its
harbors, particularly those at Valetta, are very fine, and
afford safe anchorage to largest class ships. The soft
nature of the stone which abounds to a great extent in
the island favored much the erection of the giant fortifi-
cation— the largest artificial protection in the world — that
frowns on all sides of the island. As Major Porter of the
British army well says, the fortifications of Malta are not
the work of one man — one ruler in the band of brothers
who made it their home — but rather it is a mighty patch-
work to which every Grand Master, zealous in the cause
of the Order, and desirous of leaving behind him some
substantial monument to perpetuate his name, added a
patch. Thus it grew up successively. It may be as well
to mention here that St. Michael and St. Elmo were the
first forts erected on this island. Could the rude rocks
and their many crannies and deep indentations into
which the sea rolls its incessant thunder speak, what a
tale could Malta tell — more graphic, thrilling, more
touching and pathetic than that told by the historian.
The cry of war and the clash of steel have often echoed
86 m \ 1. 1 \.
over tin- little speck in the ocean. The Turkish scimitar
has here reflected the flash of the knight's beav^ sabre;
the cresceni has waved alongside the white cross banner
of the Christian soldiers of St. John of Jerusalem; and
the shout of Allah and the Prophet has been answered h\
the Templar's battle-crj — " The one and the true God !"
Of course .Malta is invested with interest in the eyes
of historians and readers, as being the long abiding-place
and final resting-spol of thai noble band of men who won
for themselves a name in the far-off times of the Cru-
sade-— the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and the
Knights Templars. Here the white cross flag waved its
last time.
.Malta has sustained one of the most terrific sieges on
record — that by brave La Valetta against the Ottoman
army, headed by Mustapha, in 1505, but which was ter-
minated— although St. Elmo tell, and with it every one of
its noble defenders — b) the withdrawal of the Turkish
army, and in the victory of the brave Grand Master.
The island was first and for ever lost to the Older of St.
John in L798, when Napoleon Bonaparte treacherously
■red the city of Valetta, which was not <l<j'r,i<l*<l <ii <ill
by the cowardly Bempesch, who was the Grand .Master
at that time, and. without a struggle, the white cross of
the one glorious and noble order was torn down. It
naed a- if retributive justice followed the footsteps
of tic- grasping Napoleon, and. after two years' sway
mid")' French rulers, Malta was retaken by the gallant
Nelson. It has ever since remained in English hands,
IMPORTUNITIES OF GUIDES. 87
and the proud standard of Great Britain waves now over
the walls of St. Angelo. Long may it float there !
It was with a good deal of interest, then, that we
lounged about the old town which had once been the
theatre of such strife, and it was with mingled feelings
that we gazed on the massive walls of St. Angelo, and
the bristling ramparts of the Floriana. The city of
Valetta is built mostly on the hill, at the summit of which
stood formerly the fortress of St. Elmo, which resisted
two fierce assaults from Mustapha's forces in 1565, and
which fell at the third onset, every knight being stretched
a mangled corpse before the enemy stood inside the dearly
defended walls. Thus we passed the day, wandering
about and satiating ourselves on the historic lore here
afforded. Each one, even Meinherr, giving his quota
ofk information concerning the noble order, here once
supreme, and of incidents happening in the history of
Malta.
I have stood in many cities of the globe — in famous
London, in gay Paris, in sober Frankfort, in beauteous
Florence, in classic Rome, and in man}^ others, yet never
was I more subjected to importunities and impudence
from guides or couriers than here. I have generally suc-
ceeded in Europe in getting rid of these bores by simply,
emphatically, and once for all declaring that their services
were not needed. But here nothing suffices save an appeal
to a policeman, or a menace with your cane. From the
time we left the door of the hotel until we entered it
again, late in the afternoon, we were surrounded by
guides — begged, nay, commanded to engage their services,
EQU i I'M BNTS.
one and all! It was enough to try one's temper. .Mein-
herr, profoundly Ignorant of wbal they wished, continu-
ally bowed to them, thinking, perhaps, they were anient
friends of ours. 1 informed him correctly as to the mat-
ter, and he remarked, quite audibly, " Der Tuyfel!" and
treated them quite rudely henceforth. I warn all who
walk as strangers the streets of Valctta to provide them-
selves with a hravv cane, and an unusual allowance of
patu not .
In order to equip ourselves for our Eastern tour, and
acting in accordance with the advice of guide-books, we
repaired to-day to a gun store. S. purchased a very
handsome English double-gun, and all the accoutre-
ments. I look forward with pleasure to the time
when we can test its qualities against the pigeons and
partridges which, we are told, abound in the valley of
Jordan. Meinherr bought a formidable-looking knife.
and a less formidable-looking pair of single-barrel belt
pistols; and I bought a beautiful knife. I added this
armory to my pistol merely for the beauty of the weapon,
and more for the purpose of having a Milir.se souvenir,
than with any idea of ever wetting if in Arab blood. God
fend such an end! I find the inhabitants of this
Uy city are not a whit more prompt in business affairs
than in other sections of the world. I ordered a strap
for my pistol and knife from a Sadler, and was told it
should be done for " Signore" in half an hour. " Sig-
/>'>/■■" called ;it the -| x ci ii< <1 time, and it was not com-
iii'ikxI. After three successive times thai I had darkened
the door of the shop, each time propounding the terse
AN EVENING STROLL. 89
question — "That strap done yet?" I received said
article, and was charged exactly double what I was told
would be the price. I took care not to pay it.
Late in the afternoon we took dinner at a miserable
restaurant, styling itself " Hotel Minerva." Miserable,
indeed, was the fare; for fear of faring worse, we all
three offered up a vow not to go within a square of the
place again, and we will not.
Late this afternoon, or rather early after dusk, we took
a stroll along the bastion by the sea. It was a wild scene ;
and we watched long the beautiful moon hanging over the
rough, seething sea, while the spray dashed over us,
although sheltered by the thick ramparts. We have now
returned, have just partaken of tea in our room, and are
seated snugly around the glowing grate. I would fain
think of those loved ones far away, but Meinherr is no
respecter of such feelings — being " sixteen years a huzzar,"
they are withered and wilted in him. He is preparing to
spin us a yarn of a haunted castle in far-off Deutschland,
and, nolens volens, I must lend an ear. * * * *
Malta Gross Hotel, )
Friday, February 18th, 1859. J
At an early hour, despite the fact that we retired very
late last night, we arose this morning. By we I mean S.
and myself; for Meinherr is astir by the time it is fairly
light ; and when we turn over for our first morning nap,
the good old fellow is on his way to his church. He is a
genuine devotee to his faith, and has won much on my
affections. May he long live to tell his listening friends
90 11 ERR moni \<;'s s roR s
in his distant German home, h\ the Black Forest, of his
adventures, and the Bights he saw on this eventful tour.
r>\ the bye, he bold us rather a thrilling story lasl night;
the one he was about to commence, when, to give him
Mii.-ntion. I was obliged to close my Journal. As well as
1 could understand Meinherr, speaking altogether in his
musical Teutonic language, the following is about the sub-
stance of his story. Be it understood. Meinherr was a
participator in the mysterious affair of which he told us
-. i gravely.
On the wooded banks of the far-off Neckar, in a small
village, not far from Heidelberg, where Herr Montag first
siw the light of life, was an old castle, or rather there
were the ruins of an ancient chateau, for nothing re-
mained save a small tower, which was much decayed, a
large heap of rubbish, and two flanking walls all over-
grown with ivy, and looking the very picture of decay
and melancholy. Around this old site, its tower and rub-
bish, hung many a terrible tale, and over the ruins every
old house-wife in the village had woven her particular tale;
always of mystery and horror. What the castle was, to
whom it formerly belonged, none knew, as its present
State of wreck and destruction dated hack far beyond the
mory of the oldest inhabitant. This, they all knew,
however, thai from those ruins on calm and cold moon-
light nights, or nights when made dark by the overhang-
ing curtains of clouds, and terrible by the down-rushing
rain, and thunder- and lightnings, any one, curious
enough to listen, might, al little expense of personal con-
venience, h«'ar unwonted and supernatural sounds; some-
HERR MONTAG'S STORY. 91
times — particularly on cold, calm nights — there could be
heard, issuing as from the bare, gray stones themselves,
silver tones of sweetest music, or clear and liquid laughter,
as from lips and throats only angelic ; and on the crumb-
ling battlements of the ramparts could be heard the regu-
lar pace, as of a sentinel, and the clink of his musket, as
he sometimes trailed it after him over his stony beat.
But on dark and stormy nights, when the raging ele-
ments were at war, — the wildest and most unearthly
shrieks could be heard, and wild gibbering of demoniac
laughter swept about on the wings of the wind, while the
crunching tread of the airy sentinel, and the hoarse chal-
lenge from his mysterious throat, could be distinctly
heard. Such were some of the tales rife about this old
ruin on the banks of the Neckar.
It was drawing near to Christmas, which, all over
Germany, is the great holiday of the year, — and the busy,
thrifty appearance of the village — the churches decked
in holly bushes, the laughing faces of frau and fraulews,
and the abundance of good things and other articles more
substantial, were sufficient testimony that the approach-
ing holiday would be inferior, in gaiety, to none of its
predecessors. The eventful time came around — all was
joy, fun, and hilarity, and the village rang from one end
to the other with merry laughter and telling jest. On
one particular night of this festive week, a large company
had .uathered in a good dame's house, to witness the
ceremony of marriage, at all times pleasing, but now,
doubly so, owing to the auspicious season, and the abund-
ance of goodly feeling, and, what is better, good things
II l.K b montag's STOB V
around. But, the oighl in question was wild, stormy,
and dark w ithout, and nought of the tower and the ruins,
which stood quite near tin- good dame's house, could be
seen, save the dim and broken outline, around winch the
1 trees -hook their while arms, and the wind piped
instrangelj hollow tones. Bui the companj was large at
the -ddd mother's, and the house comfortable. The rain
and hail and wind pattered down and swept by unheeded.
Meinherr, then quite a young man. was present, and
enjoyed, with the rest, the festivities of the occasion.
It was fast growing late, and yet the dancers still clattered
away to the twanging notes of a harp, struck by a
spy old harper, and it seemed as if nought could disturb
the joy of the occasion. Suddenly, a shrill and protracted
unearthly shriek echoed through the apartment, and
then another and another — and all was still. The room
with its merry company was. in a moment, as silent as
death. They all knew — their pale faces spoke it — that
those demon-like notes came from the haunted ruin.
The new-made bride clung to her swain, who did not
look as valiant just then, as he often had on other
"occasions," not quite so "trying" — the old harper was
now wide awake, and had pushed into the crowd, as far
as possible from the door. Not many moments of this
awful silence lasted, before these dreadful cries com-
me: in; it seemed as if fifty devils were fighting
with as many other devils, and fifty thousand whirlwinds
had broken Loose, and a thousand cannon had discharged
their thundering content-. The spell of fear which had
compelled the company to remain still, was broken, and
iierr montag's story. 93
the crowd, rushing to the door, beheld a most terrific
sight. The old tower and the decaying and ivy-grown
ramparts were aglow with a lurid and brilliant light —
every stone of the ruin was perfectly distinct. Mein-
herr could well see the indentations in the rocky sides of
the tower. On the ramparts, human forms in fantastic
dresses were seen hurrying to and fro, while all above in
mid air, there seemed to be some terrible conflict going
on. This lasted but a moment, yet long enough for all
to see the strange sight, when all at once a most un-
earthly report shook the village, even to the surrounding
mountains. There was a sudden propulsion in the air,
of the old tower, ruins, and all — then a heavy crash —
then came total darkness, and all was perfectly still, as
the rain pattered down, as ever. Next morning, Mein-
herr went on to state, he, with many others, repaired to
the spot, but the tower and flanking walls had completely
disappeared, and nothing was there more than usual, save
a great number of tracks, evidently made by cloven feet,
and a barrel, which was blackened and begrimed like
soot, and which the neighbors concluded had been the
punch-bowl from which the bogles had drunk their
infernal potations. Meinherr left the village soon after,
and has never since been there.
S. showed some signs of wonder as Meinherr con-
cluded, and I, to humor the " old huzzar," asked a question
or two, as if he had gained my credulity. Just then,
I noticed a peculiar twinkle about the old fellow's eye,
which showed, plainly, he thought he had drawn the
wool over our eyes, and that he was enjoying it hugely.
IPPEARANC1 OF M \ LTA.
We have Bpent quite a delightful day in this good old
city. Having previously determined on thai line of
conduct last evening, we proceeded, to-day, to hire a
carriage for the purpose of seeing something of the island.
After much wrangling, offers and refusals, and accept-
ances, Meinherr, S.. and self took our scats in a real
comfortable open vehicle, drawn by two quick-footed,
ited grays, and. waving a temporary adieu to those al
the hold, we dashed up the steep Strada Santa Lucia,
and then emerged at the northern gate, into the country.
A- we passed out over the draw-bridge, and left the last
fortification behind, I looked back at the many defences
of the city. It seemed impossible that any force could
carry those formidable walls, and well pleased was I that
my olivt branch of peace was here more efficacious than
ten thousand muskets. Away we dashed — all in good
humor, even to cocker, who is generally sulky on happy
:asions. I never saw better roads in my life — as hard
as flint, and. in many places, as level as a railway.
The island of Malta, the country part of it, presents a
most singular appearance to one who has seen the inter-
minable forests and equally interminable prairies of our
western country. No tree raises its head on this rocky
island, to give -hade to the weary or relief to the land-
Nothing but white, blistering, glaring rocks,
aished, it may be, in some places, with the scantiest
of shrubbery, greets the eye. And yet there are some
spots on this island, which, in richness, luxuriance, and
overburdening verdure, are Eden-like in beauty. I refer
to the gardens, of which there are several. I think that
CITTA VECCHIA. 95
of St. Antonio, which was first visited, one of the loveliest
spots I ever beheld. Oranges, lemons, and many other
kinds of fruits fairly obstructed our way, and hung about
our heads in incredible quantities. As we sauntered
down one of the walks in the garden, it really seemed to
me as if I was a participator in some Eastern scene, and
was perambulating the private garden of some grand old
khalif of Arabian Nights memory. We visited several
other gardens, all gorgeous, but none equal to St. Antonio.
We continued our ride, and finally drove into the old
town of Citta Vecchia. This is an interesting spot, being
the first place torn from the French rule, before the
island finally succumbed to the British. It boasts a fine
old cathedral, and extensive catacombs. We were bored
to death by vendors of all kinds of antique coins, and
singular souvenirs of the underground vaults. It required
our utmost indifference and stolidity to restrain from
buying, in self-defence. Good man Montag, while our
backs were turned, was swindled out of several shillings.
Near Citta Vecchia, in a bold bay, which stretches in a
considerable arc, we saw the reputed place of the Apostle
Paul's shipwreck. There is an immense undertow here,
and the meeting of this with the inward swells from the
north, makes a considerable commotion over the shoals.
This is what, perhaps, the Apostle meant by " two seas."
" And falling into a place where two seas met, they ran
the ship aground, and the forepart struck fast and re-
mained immovable, but the hinder part was broken with
the violence of the waves" (Acts xxvii. 41). From this
point, a most beautiful view can be obtained. The long
S( in i: OF ST. I* A r L'S SB I l'\v R ECK.
Line of rugged fortifications, the swelling undulations of
the beach, and the broad expanse of watery waste, make
an agreeable picture It was on tins island, and near
this place thai St. Paul, having escaped from the dangers
of shipwreck, came among the "barbarous people who
showed u- no little kindness; for they kindled a lire and
received us every one, because of the present rain, ami
because of the cold." This is a high recommendation,
and one t«> he trusted, coming as it does from such autho-
rity as St. Paul; hut nearly two thousand years have
elapsed since that time, and the Maltese — to their discre-
dit he it said — have deteriorated sadly. This island then,
according to our sacred authority, was called " Melita."
I notice on the seal of the superintendent of police the
words. --.Melita Renascens," and the same motto on the
fly-leaf of several hooks. Some persons, however, have
denied that Malta is the ancient Melita. Among them is
Lord Lyndsay. But at the time he wrote his puling let-
ter-, he was a mere school-hoy, and wrote it, seemingly.
-imply to differ with others — to fill up his sheet — or, to
Bay best, at random; for he said that Malta was not the
old Melita. and without giving one single reason for it.
Such authority doe- not go far with me. I look upon
Mr. Murray's guide-books as better authority on travel,
ami what is to he seen, than any others extant. He
agrees with the majority, and calls Malta the old Melita,
in his work on ••Southern Italy and Malta."
After a mosl plea-ant. and it is to be hoped, in-
structive ride to all of us, we returned leisurely at a
late hour in the afternoon. I don't believe I ever
ENGLISH SOLDIERS. 97
enjoyed a more pleasant two hours than I did this
afternoon, as we rode along the bold indentations of the
rugged coast. As we approached the large open space,
near the Floriana, we saw a body of English soldiers on
drill. Having a desire to witness the evolutions of these
men, against whose ancestors our grandfathers perhaps
fought for the precious boon of liberty, we ordered the
coachman to stop his breakneck pace. We watched the
manoeuvres with much interest for over an hour. I can
scarcely make up my estimate of a British soldier. I
came to this conclusion, that they are inferior to Austrian
or French. They do not appear so martial, by any means,
as the Austrian particularly, and their evolutions compared
to the Gent Garde, or even the common light infantry at
Paris, were really clumsy. We finally returned to the
hotel, and all agreeing to it, we took a long stroll. We
saw the church of San Giovanni, or St. John, where the
tombs of four hundred knights form one of the finest
floors in existence, and, where many grand masters,
among them La Valetta, repose in the silence and sanctity
of death — but of this splendid edifice, more anon. I have
not seen it, save the exterior, thoroughly as yet. S.
purchased a hat, and looks not at all improved by it. We
partook of a hearty dinner, at which we had much fun at
Meinherr's expense.
It is now dark, and we are snugly seated around a
grateful fire, and are enjoying a good laugh — Meinherr, as
usual, being the exciting cause. The good " huzzar" was
seated very comfortably just now, by the grate, and the
silent twirling of his moustache, and the upward and
A CRASH.
gentle expression of his clear graj eyes, showed well thai
his thoughts wore engaged most pleasantly in wandering
back to bis mountain home. S. had warned the old
fellow of the uncertain foundation on which he was seated.
for the old chair had evidently borne the brunl <>f many
years' hard usage, and now Bhowed manifest infirmity
of ripening age. An unguarded twist to make himself
more comfortable, unequally distributed Meinherr's heavy
weight. Result — a quick crash, and some confusion, in
the midst of which Meinherr's large hoot was conspicu-
ously elevated high above surrounding objects. "Ach!
an in QoUT was all he said, as he good-naturedly
recovered himself and looked around. S. being a sort of
workman, has taken upon himself the responsibility of
mending said chair, and is now busily engaged in sef/i/i;/
the broken limb, though he much fears, he avers — -false-
joint * :i: * * ::: ::: * * * *
Finally S. has finished, and order once more reigns;
though S. insists on telling some stories, which in vivid-
i
36 excel even Meinherr's of last evening. S., however,
is in dead earnest, and vouches most sacredly for the
truth of what he says. II<- has just commenced a thrill-
ing narrative of personal experience relative to ghosts.
whether in rivalry to Meinherr's Haunted Castle, I can-
not say. yet he positively asserts that every word is true;
and knowing his character for veracity, and his contempt
for believers in witches and bogles, I must say his story
ickfi strongly of the marvellous — so strongly and
Btrangely, indeed, that I now lay aside my journal to
listen
A RACE AFTER A HAT. 99
An hour has elapsed, and S. has finished. Truly mar-
vellous and intensely thrilling ! I am sure I will dream
to-night of all kinds of ghosts.
Malta Cross Hotel. "|
Saturday, February 19th, 1859. J
We arose quite late this morning, and slowly and in
silence took our way to the breakfast-hall, where we as
slowly and as silently despatched our meal. Not even
the appearance of good John Montag minus his hat, which
the wind had taken from him on his way from church,
could enliven us. I could not help thinking of S.'s re-
markable vision, of which he told us the previous even-
ing ; and the sad recollections of the event clouded his
brain. But the cloud gradually wore off; and Meinherr,
who had not understood one word of the narrative, con-
tributed to our amusement by telling of his downhill race
after his treacherous hat, the last of which he saw when
it was high in the air, performing several somersaults over
the bastions near the landing-place. Its probable fate
was — "drowned at sea." If I don't forget it, I will re-
cord the remarkable sightseeing of which S. was guilty,
in some future journal, when I feel more like writing than
just now. It is good enough to keep, and, with some
slight varnishing, might create a sensation in print.
I wrote several letters to-day to the dear ones at home,
and, among them, one to my mother. Mother ! how sin-
gularly charming does that word break on my ear ! Sin-
gular the emotions created by that one word breathed in
your presence ! Go where you will, be surrounded by
LOO M \ LTESE M \ \ I FAC i T RES.
whatever company you may, the heart still throbs with a
kinder beat, as that holy oame recalls to you your boy-
hood's bowers, among which, in days "lang syne," you
used to dream awaj your happy existence, unrecking of
the sterner realities of manhood, on whose verge you then
stood. Many, very many things bave I forgotten, yet my
heart will be callous indeed, when I forget the sainted
image of her who gave me birth.
We walked over the town a good deal to-day, and exa-
mined particularly the shops where the Maltese lace is
manufactured. I purchased some at a triile, compared to
the price for the same in America. Almost every house in
Valetta has this lace for sale. I was particularly struck
with the gold and silver filagree work, of which we see
here a great quantity. Some of the most intricate little
contrivances mad" from these metals, formed into chains.
brooches, pendants, &c, are presented to your gaze.
Some so delicate and tiny that the meshes, contorted in
ten thousand different manners, are just perceptible. The
favorite form into which this particular kind of work is
made is the Maltese-cross. Some of the shawl-pins, pen-
dant-. &c., are really superb. We see much fine coral,
also, some lava, and some singular-looking and rather
shallow cameos. Yet the shell is very pretty, having the
rich, velvety appearance indicative of a genuine cameo.
Strange to say, these cameos are all mounted in silver,
or argent dore (silver gilt), showing conclusively that
they are not in much demand. There are several other
kinds of bijouterie, but none of much importance.
In wandering about to-day, endeavoring to -'drive dull
THOUGHTS OF HOME. 101
care away," we partook of an iced sherbet; and really, it
was so good, and so refreshing, that it deserves a mention
in my journal. It seems rather strange to be speaking
of sherbet, and that iced, and it is now one of our coldest
winter months ; yet, so it is ; and it was with genuine
surprise, on yesterday, I beheld and ate a fine cantelope
at our hotel. Before the summer of the present year
wanes, I hope to eat cantelopes in my own dear home in
the West. Meinherr's eyes sparkled with pleasure as he
leisurely sipped the cooling compound, and his speedy
demand to be replenished was proof positive he was satis-
fied with the mixture. And so the day wore on apace.
Malta Cross Hotel. |
Sunday, February 20th, 1859. J
This, the Lord's day, has at length dragged its slow
length away. I say dragged, because I have been racked
throughout the last twenty-four hours with bodily pain,
which has been sufficient to cloud my mind also, and
make me think too much and too fondly — for my peace
of mind — of those dear ones in America. But as I had
nothing to do, not being able even to go to church, I was
compelled to let my imagination " unfettered" run riot.
And sad havoc it has played with my feelings. More
than seven years have sped their unseen way to the
shades of the past since I could fairly say I was home-
sick : yet to-day that word does not give the full force of
that intense yearning, I have experienced in the last few
hours for home. It is simply because I cannot occupy my
mind. To-morrow it will be gone, and its existence will
L02 A SA l N PER.
cot even find a place in my memory. Bui as the sound
of Sabbath bells comes faintly through my closed door,
and echoes gently on my ear, 1 cannot ward off the Bad-
uess which Bteals over me on this bleak and raw eve oi
February. 1 have heard the sound of these Bacred bells
in main a city of the world, but now 1 suppose I bid
farewell to all for a time. Whither 1 now go, the Chris-
tian tocsin is drowned by the Muzzim cry, and the fol-
lowers of Mahomet and a second Messiah crush out the
devotees of Jesus, the Bethlehemite.
Day after to-morrow is our last, for the time, in Malta.
and then again we trust our lives to the dangers of the
deep. 1 wish the day was here; vet, to-day, late in
ih<- afternoon, for exercise, 1 sauntered down to the
-hore; and. as I stood on the frowning bastions, and
gazed far out over the rolling waters, it was rather a chill-
Lng feeling that crept over me as 1 remembered how many
miles oi' briny danger I would have to cross and re-cross
before I Btood hen- again. I returned late, and found Mr.
G. of Texas in my room, who came to return my guide-
iks. From conversation I learn G. was a West Point
Cadet, and was a classmate with my brother-in-law.
Singular how we meet and make acquaintances!
CHAPTER VI.
Malta Cross Hotel. 1
Monday, February 21st, 1859. J
?WO months ago to-day we left the Chemin-de-fer
du Nord, in far-off Paris, en route towards the
seat of " Belgium's Capital." How much have
we seen, learned, forgotten, and admired, since that
eventful afternoon, when, port-habits in hand, we stood
in the gare, and bought our billets, which would insure
our passage to Brussels, while we turned our backs on
Napoleon's fair capital, which had so long afforded us a
gay and happy student-home ! Since our nostrils breathed
the air of the Boulevards and the Faubourg St. Honore,
our feet have wandered over the field of Waterloo, where
was fought the Battle of Nations ; we have coursed the
Rhine from mouth to source ; have delved through the
rocky glens of Switzerland ; have glided over the placid
waters of Lac Leman ; have overcome Mt. Cenis's frozen
summit ; have laughed away our cares and troubles
through Piedmont's sunny plains ; have shot over the
water streets, and stood on the Bridge of Sighs in silent
Venice ; have loitered blissfully in the Pitti palace at
Florence ; have roamed by moonlight tne once-bloody
arena of Rome's grand old Coliseum ; have written our
(103)
HI ANTICIPATION AND R E A Li r v.
names on Tiber's yellow sand; have climbed Vesuvius's
ed sides; trod through the exhumed streets of long-
buried Pompeii ; stood in the underground chambers
of Herculaneum's once thriving town — and this day, we
stand in British Malta, far away! It is pleasant, ye1 un-
pleasant, to note the changes in life, and in the condition
dt' men, wroughl by the fickle hand of time. Pleasing
to recall the brighl associations which cluster in brilliant
cohorts over our back-wandering brain, and make' our
minds happj now in the recollection, as then in reality:
unpleasant when we shake off the sweet dreaming of the
hour, and recollect those joys are gone forever — that we
are left to eke out our allotted existence — that we are
but driving Fancy's shining car — that we are but work-
horses in the present race-course of life. The question,
often disputed, whether in anticipation or reality exists
most pleasure, has many times, almost unwittingly, too,
i discussed in my mind. It is true, the realization of
Borne long-cherished object affords joy of a grade some-
times almost ethereal, and the ecstasy its final achieve-
ment and glorious accomplishment generates, can scarcely
equalled by any other emotion of the mind. How
et the thoughts arise over my soul in this spot, far
away from my own sod — thoughts which rush over
my thinking being, like the trooping sweep of giant
winds — thoughts of my own dear home, and its dearer
inmate-, far " o'er the lea," toward the red sunset ! Sweet,
indeed, the anticipation of my distant meeting with friends
and kinsmen, and sweeter yet may he the time when I
in those loved ones to my exiled bosom,, and breathe
ANTICIPATION AND REALITY. 105
in their ears words of steadfast affection. Bat there can be
no doubt, but that the picture, our recalling memory paints,
and hangs up in the halls of imagination — of bright things
dead, almost forgotten — of bright things rendered still
brighter by the magic touch of association's wand — in
point of v/nchanging beaut}- and interest, charms our souls
the longest, and affords the richest enjoyment of which
the mind and soul, and senses are capable. Years ago —
not any great many, it is true, but enough to warrant the
expression — when I wandered amid the bowers of my
happy boyhood, how sad the feeling which clouded my
whole being, when the word college was pronounced in
my hearing ! No joyous emotions coursed through me
then, and no anticipated joys lessened the pang of parting
with those at home. The bright associations of childhood
and riper boyhood flashed in a million of gorgeous rays
through my mind, and it was with heartfelt reluctance I
stretched forth my backward hand to give and take the
farewell grasp — that hand which in this unwilling act
was the first to strike at the root of that youthful tree,
on whose branches clustered the joys and follies of boy-
hood. And heavy was my step which trod away from
home, and heavier the heart which sighed "o'er and
oft" " for joys that we've tasted." And yet, changed is
the picture in the halls of my memory. The bright,
ever bright images of my college life, which float and
flicker like will-o'-wisps through some long, dark vista, flash
into light, and by their flash envelope themselves in a
darkness ten times more impenetrable than before. Ay,
well do I remember those loved forms ! some are now in
L06 r ii E i'A sspo R r sv s r i. \i.
high walk-- ni" life, honored and known among men;
others are tenants of the Last long home. 5Tet with what
u melancholy and sad. vet doublj Bweet pleasure, 1 think,
mi this cold eve in stinging February, in .Malta's rocky
Limits, do 1 recall each and everj incident, accident, and
event which marked my educational course in the halls
of my dear old Alma Mater! 1 mvst lav aside my pen.
and thinh\ :i: :;: :;: *
Well — two mouths ago to-day, and I stood in Paris,
a trusty friend on either hand. One loiters now amid
the deep glens of Sicily, and listens with pleasure to the
thrilling wind of Calabrian horn; — the other, ere this,
dashes his watery course towards the far-off west, towards
Columbia's boast, and every freeman's pride. I, am here,
and sad \i\\ heart too, as I think of the French capil
the lading form of the noble Plad de la Concorde, the
spreading avenues and groves of the Champs ElysSes, and
the dark walls and turrets of frowning Notre Dame. Well
— two months will yet wing their numbered days to uns<
shades, before my foot treads again amid the tramp and
hustle of Parisian life — and SO it must be — and so I am
content it is.
Among other things our present party arranged to-
day, was our passports, allowing us passage on the
French steamer, and permitting us to pass unmolested.
in the different port- of the Levant. It is an arbitrary
arrangement, this passport system, I think, for several
reasons, especially as regards their nice viseevng, as is
required in the French steamers' Bervice. This strict
surveillance owex passports, is not local, — in Genoa the law
THE PASSPORT SYSTEM. 107
is the same as in Malta, and it is as rigid throughout the
many ports on the Italian coast, as in the above-
mentioned localities. Of course they have reasons — the
managers of the company — for this scrutinizing vigilance,
yet I have made inquiries, and many, from English,
Americans, Italians, Germans, and French, for the reasons
for this procedure, and I was never able to learn a
plausible and truthful iohy. You cannot enter a French
steamer bound for any port in the Mediterranean Sea,
unless your passport is first signed by nearly every official
in the town, and before that passport is accredited and
deposited aboard, the ship ; — and you cannot purchase
your ticket without your passport; at least this is
the fact, in Valetta, island of Malta, in the office
of the Messageries Imperiales. Persons forewarned of
these troubles, generally imagine themselves forearmed
— an error of the most egregious type, and one into which
I fell, throughout all my journeyings on the Continent,
in Asia, and in Africa. Passports, then, I record in this
Journal, present the embodied form of a European tourist's
nuisance — a nuisance with which, thank God, we do not
suffer in America, and one to which, thank God, we
would not submit.
Well, I have spent a page on passports, but I like to
record my troubles, and my ideas about troubles, so that,
perhaps, by a reference to these hastily written pages, in
some unborn year, I may post a friend on some of the
difficulties which beset his path while strolling amid the
flowery fields and glacier peaks of Continental Europe.
I was much struck, as I quite modestly asked my
\ CIVIL POLICEMAN.
passport of the Superintendent of Police, with the
rudeness with which he conducted himself towards
me particularly, and towards m\ part} generally. The
contrast to the polite and efficient French officer in
the Prefectwn d< fblia in Paris, was painful. I could
scarcely brook the official's insolence, and S. strove
not to curh down the spread eagle spirit of Republi-
canism which burnt in his soul. Englishmen arc as
different in manners and civility, as arc the varied trees
of the varied forest, which spread over nature's ample
face. By *<<//" Englishman 1 have been treated with a
condescending respect, and a genuine politeness, which
very few Frenchmen have shown me. I well remember
once, when strolling — a perfect stranger — over the little
fairy bridge which spans a silver thread of water in St.
James's Square in mighty London. That time is rendered
bright by the burly form of a <jciiiiin<-linirh'<l policeman
— one of nature's own nobleman — who saw my embarrass-
ment and lack of knowledge, so essential to sight-seeing,
and kindly offered and asked, — himself to become my
cicerone — and a most excellent one he was. Long shall I
remember him; yet, "for a' that," these cases are but
■ptions to a rule, — a rule which I found to be generally
true, viz., that Englishmen will not "put themselves out
of the way" for any one's comfort, save their own, and
that they arc, in other words — decidedly, as a nation —
uncivil.
We left the police-office, then, in great disgust — S. and
myself in high dudgeon, good John Montag being most
iouslj ignorant of our zunge, was most effectually
indifferent about the cause which raised a flame in ouv
AN AMERICAN. K)9
minds. Next, we went to the office of the Messageries
ImpSriales, just off the Strada Santa Lucia. What a
difference did the sleek-tongued Frenchman present !
We gained our necessary information in regard to the
next boat for Alexandria and Jaffa, and the port laws of
quarantine, &c. Our next visit was to our consul — and
this was the pleasant climax to our calls this morning.
It was the most natural and most whole-souled, most
American affair, of the day. Right cordially did our
noble-hearted representative welcome us, and gave us to
understand that he was a genuine American, in name, in
family, and in feelings. He is from Boston, and claims
as his grandfather, the gallant fellow who headed the
Boston " tea-party," in those days of trial and trouble to
our gallant forefathers. William Winthrop is that man's
worthy grandson, and, I am sure, would as willingly, in
this, our Republican noon-day of glory and power, head
another "tea-party," to crush out despotism and unjust
taxation from our land.
We saw Mr. G., of Texas, again, late in the afternoon,
and took occasion to say "good-bye," once more. Mr. G.
sailed for Alexandria, this afternoon, in the English
steamer Para. Our party had, originally, purchased
tickets by the French line, in Naples, which tickets were
good to Jaffa, else we would have embraced the opportunity,
and gone by the English steamer also. I wish Mr. G. and
family a happy and prosperous ending to their travels.
Late this afternoon, when the sinking sun, as if shield-
ing himself from the stinging blasts which flew through
the streets, suddenly hid himself behind a large, heavy
1 10 A PLE \ S A N I STROLL.
cloud in the west, I strolled down to the battlemenl
shores, and there, in the thunder of the breaking Bpray,
and in the music ol' the passing wind. 1 thought, Long
and fondly, of home. k> Then ienoplact lih home!"
Malta < '/os.s Hotel,
Tuesday, February
' Vo.s.s Hotel, )
22d, L859. (
Washington's birthday lias passed, and 1 have spent it
in this far-off island, in the " Miltel Meer." Quite agree-
ably, too, have the hours flown by.
We enjoyed, this morning, a most pleasant stroll
beyond the northern gate, toward the public gardens.
id John Mon tag and S. enlivened the time, as usual —
Montag by committing several laughable blunders among
the soldiers on the walls, and S. by relating many anec-
dotes of his life, and recounting a number of wild legends,
with which his brain seems stocked. We have made the
agreement among ourselves, or rather, we made the
arrangement in Naples, that we would, each in turn,
tell during the long, dull nights which we have to endure
on this, our memorable trip, some incident of his own life,
or some tale or legend with which he has become ac-
quainted. Several have been, in turn, already related,
among them, good John Montag's ghost story, which I
translated, and recorded several evenings ago. Hence-
forth. I shall record them, in substance, when they are
told. We find, that by this procedure, our long evenings
too shorty that they are gone before the brave
"huzzar" gets to the second part of his thrilling story, or
S. concludes from which to choose, among his
A GHOST STORY. Ill
many tales of haunts and hair-breadth escapes. While in
this connection, I will record, briefly, S.'s remarkable
sight-seeing, to which I referred several days since. It is
a narrative of personal experience, and perhaps S. may
have some objections to my recording it ; but, as I do it
simply to gratify my own desire, I hope S. will not
take umbrage, if, should I be so fortunate as to have
my Journal " printed," he should see his haunted story
in type. S. hails from Savannah, a sunny city of the
sunny South.
On one afternoon, toward the coming death of the fast-
sinking sun, he, with several others, took a stroll towards
the outskirts of the town. Their steps gradually and
imperceptibly led them near the city cemetery. In this
cemetery was buried S.'s oldest brother. " As our party
approached the burying-ground," continued S., " I chanced
to look towards the last resting-spot of my lamented
brother, — and, did my eyes deceive me, or was I dream-
ing ! There, before my eyes, as plain as the setting sun,
stood the form of my deceased brother ! I stopped —
spell-bound — at the sight. We were not thirty yards from
the apparition, and there could be no mistaking the
figure and features ; they were those of my brother, and
were as fresh to my mind as if I had seen him but
yesterday. In compliance with my frenzied action, my
party gazed in the direction I indicated, but, alas ! saw
nothing — for, just as I called their attention to the
remarkable appearance, the spectre disappeared from my
gaze, and sank into the grave. I knew I was not mis-
taken. I was compelled to believe my own eyes. I was
I l'J A. GHOST STORY.
an unbeliever in ghosts, and now abhor the very idea —
yet that one instance is an exception i<> the general
rule, and it does nol serve to strengthen my opinion
antagonistic to ghosts. My companions laughed at me,
and said my imagination was at fault; thai fancy had
painted the unburied form of mj brother, before my
gaze; but 1 believed my own eyes yet, and persuaded
them to consent bo accompany me to the same spot, at
the same hour on the following day. Sure enough, about
the same hour the next afternoon, we slowly, and rather
solemnly, too, started on the prearranged ghostly prome-
nade. As we drew near t .e sombre-looking and deeply
shaded cemetery, many threw an uneasy glance toward the
white -rave-stones. 1 was the only one at all composed.
I was composed, because 1 had formed the resolution in
my mind, to meet the spirit ; and 1 was confident we
n-i.nhl see the vision. How thrilled my heart, then,
when a sudden cry from one of my companions burst on
my ear — • My God ! boys, yonder stands the haunt!' I
look.-d. and in the deepening shade 1 saw the self-same
spectre, standing in the same position, on the same spot,
motionless as marble, and gazing steadfastly at our
approaching figures. Awe-struck and pervaded with
rising fear, the young men gradually halted, though
never removing their gaze, which was riveted on the
supernatural object. 1 advanced alone — determined to
for myself — to satisfy my own mind. Nearer and
nearer 1 approached — ten yards only intervened — and on
1 Btrode. The face was bloodless, the lips white — the
- natural, and fastened on me — the whole person was
A GHOST STORY. 113
enveloped in a seamless garment of brown stuff, which
floated and fluttered as the gossamer web in the summer
breeze — further I did not observe. Nearer and nearer I
approached, and now the length of the grave alone
separated us. I stopped — my breath came quick and
hurried — my respiration was checked, and my heart's
circulation seemed to cease its current. I inhaled a long
breath, and cried ' Brother !' How quick sweeps the
wintry gust over the plain — how suddenly, oft, is heaven's
fair face changed ! Like a flash of sunlight bursting
through a cloud, glancing a moment on the eye, and
plunging away to * outer darkness' — so flashed this spec-
tral form from my sight, and no foot-track or bruised
blade of grass told of the presence of the spirit.
" Many a time, on winter's night, and summer's eve,
have I since repaired to that sacred spot, where such a
vision had more than once burst upon my view ; but
never again did the spectre appear. I don't believe in
ghosts — I cannot ; yet that one instance is a host in itself to
battle down one's unbelief. There are many now living
in my native city in America, who can vouch for this.
It was ' passing strange,' to say the least."
And such, as near as I can record, was the substance
of S.'s remarkable story. Meinherr, whom I had by dint
of hard labor kept posted, by my miserable translation,
was inclined to raise his martial eyebrows in discredit of
the story ; but one look at S.'s open nice restrained him ;
that look, however, could not restrain his usual expression
" Ach ! mein Gott !"
1 I \ BE I I EF l N G HOSTS.
In regard to this subject, as in regard to <-\<t\ other
which vexes man's mind, and to which there are t\\<> sides.
people of tins world may be ranked in two grand divisions,
believers in ghosts, and unbelievers in ghosts, li is difficult
aaj which division possesses the greater number. I
mean, of course, these divisions as existing in the ( •hristiam
world. In unenlightened and uncivilized parts of earth-
dom, where unseen agents are worshipped as gods, and the
spirit of the wind is prayed to, by many earnest devotees,
it is useless to -a\ thai the In Hirers preponderate. And I
think I would not err materially, it' I stated that in the
Christian world, believers in spiritual manifestations, in
ghosts, witches, bogles, and supernatural agencies gene-
rally, far outnumber those whose lives and souls are
not enveloped in rappings, signs, and manifestations and
wdio do not afflict themselves with had luck and untold
evils, because they chance unwarily to step over a
broom, or give a knift to a dear friend, or commence some
important work on Friday. We may search our society.
American or English, high and low, and it is seldom our
scrutiny fails to deteel open superstition, or decided taints
of belief in supernatural visitations. Few there are. who
in childhood learned of "Raw-Head and Bloody-Bones/'
do not. when in riper years of manhood, cast a furtive
glance over their shoulder, as they tread the public
highway near the old burying-ground ; or who do not,
in night's late hour, glance uneasily about as they have
asion to search for some article, in the far away
serted garrel at the top of the house, over whose dusty
boards, footfalls seldom tramp even in noonday. This
BELIEF IN G PI 0 ST S. 115
feeling — it is but a created emotion of the mind — has clung
to me, not that I fear anything outright, but sometimes
uneasy qualms and nervous twitchings have passed over
my person, as I was situated in some lonely, deserted, and
reputedly haunted spot. It is an inheritance of childhood,
and is not a natural emotion. I have felt the same
feeling flit through my soul, that I experienced when I
wandered amid the deep gorges of the Spectral Hartz, as
when, benighted by gloom, I have hastened by the negro
burying-ground in my fir away Southern home, near the
Falling-Run. I have more than once felt a chilling fear
steal over me, as some unusual sight startled my vision,
and appealed to higher powers than I possessed to be
"accounted for." Many an object, quaint and ghostlike,
have I seen, and many a sound of supernatural import
have I heard. Most of them I have gradually been able
to account for, and others remain to this day, as then,
wrapt in profound mystery. I generally credit myself
with a quota of courage equal to that of most of the dwellers
on earth, not that I am boasting, but as Dr. Wayland,
my once revered preceptor, says, I am " so constituted"
and I am a firm disbeliever in ghosts, and in any and all
spiritual manifestations, yet more than once have I
breathed for many minutes with suspended breath,
expecting momentarily real or imaginary ghosts to fill the
scope of my visual range. But my humble adventures I
must retain, and pass off some of them, as my tale, which
com os next on the docket.
We returned this morning from our stroll, about twelve
o'clock. Before we reached the hotel, we noticed on this
1 I 6 M R . w l N l HRO P.
street a shop in which artificers were working ;i species
of ver} beautiful native stone. It resembles in texture
and softness the general building-stone in Paris, but it is
a finer stone, and changes its texture altogether after
hardening. It is very easily wrought, and makes hand-
some ornaments. The talenl is native, also, and being
MalU -' . it is very creditable. The workmen were busily
engaged on the tombstone which was to cover the remains
of an unfortunate young American, who died not long ago
in this far-away spot, separated from friends and kinsmen,
1 hi t whose presence was cheered to the last with the gene-
rous countenance of our consul. It is sad to contemplate
the last resting-spol of a fellow-countryman — his grave
dug in a foreign sod; and sadder yet is it for us to know,
situated as we are at present, that insidious disease is
rampant in our systems. Thank God, that enough good
blood yet courses through my veins to enable me to reach
borne, and there awaiting my appointed time, lay my
bones amid the dust of my grandfathers, beneath the
green turf of old Virginia !
We were visited shortly after reaching the hotel, by our
gentlemanly consul, Mr. Winthrop. We spent several
hour- most agreeably. 1 find he knows man)' of my
Yankee friends in Providence, where he had the same
Alma Mater that once sheltered me beneath her wing.
We extended him a very cordial invitation to take dinner
with us. and he accepted a- cordially. So. just before six
o'clock this afternoon he came down, arrayed in full con-
sular dress, lie is a splendid-looking man, and habited
a- le- was, in a rich and dashing style, he presented a fine
MR. WINTHROP. 117
appearance. Mr. Wirithrop is quite a scholar, and has
done more than any living person towards the translation
of the old Latin records of the Knights of St. John, and
the history of the island and fortifications, compiled and
written by different authorities in that order. On account
of his proficiency in this particular and arduous branch of
learning, Mr. Winthrop has been elected a Literary mem-
ber of scientific societies in London, Paris, in Denmark,
&c. He stands high in Malta as a gentleman ; and the
fact that our government has kept him here for twenty-
five years is ample proof of our estimation of him as a con-
sular representative. At our dinner, to-day, we enjoyed
a genuine, genial, patriotic, American meal ; and Washing-
ton, the immortal father of his country and fosterer of
American liberty, was duly toasted, and his memory
drunk in deep libations. And so the evening wore on.
Since I commenced to scribble in this, my Journal, another
hour has fled by. It is growing late, and I must close.
To-morrow afternoon, we trust to the dangers of the deep
once more **************
Wednesday, February 23d, 1859. ******
French ship Meandre, at sea, near Alexandria. ]
Sunday, February 27th, 1859. j
Four long days have passed since last I put pen to
paper, to indite my different thoughts, and the current
events of the day, in the leaves of my journal. Time
has nevertheless flown swiftly, and has now placed us in
an hour's or so steaming of Alexandria, in Egypt. Sin-
gular, indeed, has been the metamorphosis in my feelings !
11^ ALEXANDRIA IN SIGH I '.
Last Wednesdaj I stood m Malta, and felt as if / was
of crea ion exactly, and far removed from anything like
civilization even. Ami yet, cow 1 am many hundred
miles nearer heathenism and the "darkness of Egypt"
than ever before in my life, and I feel, singular to say, as
if I was approching a mon civilized country. But Malta
is rock-bound, flinty, and sufficiently contracted to curb
one's many ideas of the blessings of civilization or of any-
thing else.
For four long days, then, we have buffeted the waters
of the treacherous Mediterranean; and now, u>day, the
fifth since our departure, we are cleaving the waters with
buried bow, with our first port — old Eg} ptian Alexandria —
full in sight. What a glorious feeling thrills through me,
as 1 see the dark line which marks the tar-oil' shores of
Egypt, and the swelling domes and toweling minarets
and crescenl mosque-caps which rise above the city in the
distance ! I almost forget that 1 have yet to recross all
the wild waste of wide waters behind me, as 1 stand lost
in contemplation. And is this the ancient Egypt of the
Potiphars and Pharaohs of olden time? is this the land
throughout which Joseph at one t inie dist ributed the vital
Staff, :nid to which his old lather. Israel, and his many
is, wnt down and dwelt with him? Is this land
spread before me. indeed the same, into which Joseph and
.Mary and "the young child Jesus" lied for safety from
Herod's cruel murder of the innocents'.' Ami Moses, too,
saw the light here; and from hence the Israelites wan-
dered hark home to their far Judean hills. Well, we
know not what tin,' morrow will brine forth.
SEA-SICKNESS. 119
Since we left Valetta, we have had alternately good
and bad weather ; but all the time, nearly, the wind has
been in our favor, and has aided much our rather feeble
screw. The Meandre, though slow — most dreadfully so,
compared to our North River or Sound boats — is yet a
most seaworthy craft, and in tough blows and squalls,
which have visited us in the last four or five days, has
behaved most nobly, with one exception. She broaches
rather bad, causing her to roll like a tub ; but she has not
shipped a tumblerfull of water since we started out of
Valetta, and we have seen rough weather since. Sea-
sickness has had its share of victims, but, unfortunately
for my health, 1 have thus far escaped the monster's
clutches. I am never sea-sick now-a-days. I well recol-
lect the first time I ventured on the wide and deep waters
of the Atlantic. It was six years ago, on a short passage
from Norfolk to New York. The winds blew and the
rain descended, aud the good steamer Jamestown was
compelled to lay to ; and, in the tossing, tumbling, rolling,
and pitching, /had to lay to also, or rather I had to lay
low, and very low I was, or imagined I was. From that
day to this, I have not been sea-sick, although I have
crossed many miles of sea-water in the long interim.
Sea-sickness is no respecter of persons ; yet it does not
attack all alike : for I am an individual exception myself.
I believe this to be a general rule in regard to this dread-
ful sickness ;— persons can become habituated to it, and
will soon cease to feel the effects of the motion of the
billows. This we see in the case of seafaring men — men
who sometimes actually stumble, and get virtually sea-
1 _'• BEA-SIOKNESS,
sick on land! Some captains saj thej never were sick
from tlic time they trod a plank a1 sea a forecastle boy
to the time thej now. master of the quarter-deck, com-
manded a ship of their own. 1 believe this much in
regard to that : if ihev never were sick — sea-sick I
mean — then their systems (either the liver or stomach
especially) was deranged. Every healthy organ responds
to hurtful agencies. Notice the general effect of to-
bacco on beginners. So in regard to sea-sickness. Place
a man on ship-hoard at sea — let him have a healthy
organization — his abdominal and thoracic viscera in a nor-
mal tonic state, and that man must be sea-sick, unless the
ia a- smooth as a mill-pond. Concerning the remedies
tor the disease, we are taught in our medical schools that
the radical cure of all maladies should be directed with
an aim 'primarily to remove tht cause. If we can render
quiescent and placid the sullen roll or angry pitching of
the restless deep, then we can cure at the onset sea-sick-
ness; but this we cannot do. According to my individual
experience, I found more speedy and grateful relief from
a horizontal position on deck, about midships, keeping my
eyes clmed 'ill tht time. The latter is especially import-
ant, as it is with these organs we can comparatively
irmine the pitching and tossing more exactly. All
this nonsense — it is nothing more — about citric acid,
/. &c., I have found to be a genuine humbug. Be
all this as it may. throughout our voyage from Valetta
to this fast-nearing port, I have not been sea-sick; so far
from it, I have not missed a meal, and 1 attribute it to an
A VIRGINIAN. 121
already unsusceptible and debilitated state of the stomach
and liver.
The first day we came aboard the Meandre, last Wed-
nesday evening, 23d hist., while S. and self, arm in arm,
were pacing the ample deck of the ship, we observed a
gentleman of decidedly a Virginian cast of countenance.
I doubted it ; and though we had not heard a word fall
from his lips, S. insisted that the gentleman in question
was a Virginian, and offered to wager any amount that
he was right, and could tell one of my own statesmen
better than I could myself. The matter was soon set at
rest; the dark-haired gentleman first stepped up to S.,
and with a graceful bow spoke in our good, sweet vernacu-
lar, " this is Dr. S., I believe ;" and before the astonished
S. could assure him he was right, he turned to me, with
" the hope that he had the pleasure of addressing Dr. T."
He then introduced himself; and a nice man turns out
to be the Rev. H. R. S — tt, of Lynchburg, Va. Yes ; S.
was right, and I gave the palm to him. We were glad
enough to grasp Mr. S — tt by the hand ; and soon we
were in possession of one another's plans. Mr. S — tt has
been of late in Rome — how my heart joyfully throbs, as
I think of my sojourn near the old Campus Martius, and
the Tiber ! — but his health failing him, he had started on
this tour towards the land of the Pyramids. I have been
persuading him to go on by Alexandria, and visit Jerusa-
lem and its environs, Dead Sea, Jordan, &c, and then
return to Egypt ; by so doing he would have company, as
that is our idea. I think at present that he will do this,
and will return by Greece with me. Besides Mr. S — tt. we
of R PLANS.
have made the acquaintance of a nice Swiss gentleman
from Zurich. His came is Conrad Esslinger ; he is
Capitaine d'Etat Major, in his country. Our party, bound
to Jerusalem, has swelled considerably, 1 ;>in glad to say.
It consists of the following members: my friend from
Savannah, S.; the good "huzzar," Johannes Montag;
Conrad Esslinger; the Rev. 11 R. S— it ; a fal Franciscan
friar, who calls himself "Padre Q. da S. G&rmano di
Qeru8alemm< :" a German-Jew, and myself, making quite
a respectable show of respectable-looking men.
We have concluded to land at Jaffa, and proceed direct
to Jerusalem. We understand, however, from the cap-
tain, that landing at Jaffa is oftener than otherwise out
of the question, and that it is always doubtful. The sea,
is very frequently quite rough at that sacred port, and
breaking over a Ledge of rock lining the coast, raises such
a surf thai a boat cannot live in it at all. If such should
be our fate, we will be carried to Beirut, farther up the
Syrian coast. The only advantage accruing from this
would be, that we are quite near to Ba'albeck and Damas-
cus and have the Lebanon right at us. 1 hope, however.
mosl sincerely, that we can land at Jaffa, as that is my
favorite plan. 1 wish soon to be in El-Kvds, the City of
Ktcmal Peace. My present plan is, to return with Mr.
S — 11 to Egypt, visit the Red Sea. Pyramids, " Le Grand
Caire." and then sail direct for Piraeus, in Greece.
During our voyage, our evenings down in our cabin
were enlivened by several stories, which according to
eement had to be told; and thus our time passed mer-
rily and happily away. And after the sea-sickness was
THE SHIP-SURGEON. 123
somewhat on the decline, nothing could have presented a
more snug and comfortable appearance than did our Jeru-
salem 'party \ seated around the long table in the cabin of
the Meandre, either listening to a comrade's story, or each
engaged with the other, on the all-absorbing topic of the
wonders and sacred sights awaiting us in the Holy Land.
Since we have been aboard the Meandre, we have formed
the acquaintance of the ship-surgeon, a very nice old fel-
low. He has been quite at ease with our party, owing to
the fact, perhaps, that he finds two of his brother meds.
in the crowd. Be that as it may, he has contributed
more than his quota to our amusement and comfort. He
has ordered beer a good many times ; and the lavish hand
which he shows when he orders it, is convincing proof
that when he " treats," he treats by wholesale. At our
solicitation, several days ago, he promised us a story ;
though he seemed rather surprised when we made the
singular request of him, for it is not a Frenchman's forte
to spin yarns. But, nevertheless, he consented ; and, in
accordance with his promise, he proceeded to relate to us
a rather singular, and yet a very thrilling story of Paris
life; a story which was a story but in name, as he, the
worthy surgeon, was well acquainted with the parties
which figured in the romantic narrative. Out of respect
to the narrator, and a wish specially to hear Monsieur le
Docteur's story, all of us were at his appointed hour in
the cabin, and awaited in respectful silence for the
appearance of the Doctor. He was not long in showing
us his good-humored countenance, as he saw us awaiting
his arrival. Without ado — as he affirmed he had some
1 • J I \ ST0R1 OF PARIS LIF1
writing in hand before he got into Alexandria, and
intended doing sonic that night — he proceeded immedi-
ateh with his Btory, which 1 will here record as correctly
AS 1 can recall it.
"You know. Messieurs," said the Doctor, ••that I am a
native of our capital, Paris: and always resided, while in
that -a\ city, in what is known as the ' Qu artier Latin.'
It is in that portion of the city, a- you well know, that
medical students generally congregate; and many a
happy day have I whiled away on the Rue tie Seine, in
the magnificent garden of the Luxembourg, or in the holy
precincts of St. Sulpice, St. Genevieve, or St. Germain de
Pivs. While I was a student, gentlemen, and when I
attended the cliniques at La Charito. and at the Hotel
Dien. before Velpeau had won a name, and before Paul
du Bois was a Doctor of Medicine, I very frequently met
in my rounds in the hospitals a tall, lair-haired, pale-com-
plexioned. \ et very intellectual-looking young man. He
was a genuine student, as we could well determine from
his conduct. He made his appearance in the wards as
daily, rain or shine, and more punctually than did the
agrSgS who hail the malades here under his charge.
Quiet and unobtrusive, yet ever attending to his business,
and endeavoring very ardently to stock his brain with
knowledge — always cordially but not studiously polite, he
Boon hecame a favorite with all who were accustomed to
meet him. Edward Lagautier was a scholar and a gentle-
man ; and I. after many vain attempts, had the pleasure
of :i personal acquaintance with him. 1 was not slow in
following up fchifi acquaintance. Somehow or other I
A STORY OF PARIS LIF?:. 125
always felt an attraction toward his sweet and smiling
face — this attraction was the occasion of my acquaint-
ance. Only a few weeks elapsed before I had formed a
firm attachment toward the young student, and the time
rapidly approached when we unbosomed our secrets fully
to each other; and each had for the other, a confiding: ear.
I had not known him for any length of time before he
related to me several incidents of his life — a life which
had been checkered with many cares and troubles. When
quite young, in his native town of Pau, he lost his father
by some untoward accident ; and thus he, his two sisters,
and his mother were cut off from the support which such
a prop as father and husband afforded. Death did not
cease his doings : his two sisters fell sick and died, and his
mother followed in rapid succession. At the demise of
the latter every sous passed from the family ; and when
that dear form was hid beneath the earth, a lonely feel-
ing crept in that lone son's bosom — a feeling which none
can describe, and a feeling which had been more or less
fostered since that time. This accounted for his melan-
choly, quiet, and brooding appearance. But Edward
went on and confided to me another tale — one of sweeter
import — it was the tale of love. Yes, he told me that,
while in Lyons, a year or so previous to the period of this
narrative, he had met in that beautiful city a gay young
creature who had laid siege immediately to his heart, and
had taken the citadel of his soul by fierce assault. I
could proceed to narrate touching incidents in the lover-
life of these two young people, but time will not per-
mit me.
L26 \ STORl OF PARIS l.l I'K.
"Edward told me that this fair fairy, who ruled bis
actions and even thought, was now in the city, and
awaited anxiously the time he was to graduate in his pro-
sion ; at which time he would claim her as Ids bride.
Dearly he loved thi< bright-eyed one— his inamorata — and
often spoke to me in glowing terms concerning her; but
Love is blind, and 1 did nol credit bis half-crazed enco-
miums. Time wore on. and the examination-days were
fast approaching; thrice anxiously did Lagautier look
forward to their arrival ; for on their advent, or rather at
their expiration, he would be a happy man. and he would
find one who would supply to him mother, father, and
Bister. Alas! we cannot delve into futurity, and bring
out its hidden revelations; and perhaps it is better so, as
otherwise there are few in this world who would drink at
all from pleasure's intoxicating cup. Edward and his fair
Marie were one daw arm in arm. strolling along the beau-
tiful avenue des Champs Klysees. talking of love, and
breathing love's sweetest atmosphere. Each possessed
most fully the secrets of the other's heart, and not a
shadow of distrust or suspicion had ever for a moment
rested on their minds. Edward urged Marie to confide
to him her former life, a subject she had ever studiously
avoided: and to Edward her early history was as un-
known as the mountains in the moon. Once again she
asked him not to request this of her. telling him that
when they were married he should know all. This did
nol the young man; and tin- question he had first
asked in trifling curiosity, he now pressed with vigorous
earnestness. Hut she would sav nothing, and so the sub-
A STORY OF PARIS LIFE. 127
ject dropped. For many days subsequently, Edward sougi 1 1
in vain the presence of his Marie. He inquired for her
at her lodgings, but " Mdlle. Marie est toujours sortie' —
yes, she was never in ; and finally he was told, much to
his astonishment, that the young lady had very suddenly
on yesterday left the premises, and had moved perhaps to
another portion of the city ; but none knew positively
whither she had gone. This was unpleasant news, and
thrice deep it plunged Edward into the abysses of melan-
choly. Yet he was as regular as ever at the hospitals.
One day, and I shall never forget that day, arm in arm,
Edward and myself slowly took our way toward the
Hotel Dieu. We crossed the river over the Pont Royal,
and continued up the west bank of the river. Slowly we
took our way amid the human stream that flooded by,
mere powerful than the waters of the Seine over the walls
which skirted along the bank. Edward seemed to be in
a gayer mood than ever — that is, for the last week — and
I knew not to what to attribute it. He laughed and
talked, but never referred once to Marie, the cause of his
late vexations of mind. Suddenly he said very ear-
nestly— ' Gustave, something will happen this morning
which will make me henceforth a gloomy man or a happy
man !' ' And why think you so, Edward ?' I queried.
1 Because,' he replied, ' I had a vision last night in which
an angel stood by my bed, and repeated these very words
to me which I have just uttered to you.' ' Nonsense !' I
replied ; ' you lower your intellect, Edward, by believing
in the awkward fancies of slumber.' ' Well, we shall
see,' he answered very decidedly, as if to let coming
L28 A ST0R7 ov PARIS LIFE.
events decide as to the truthfulness of his predictions.
T>\ that time. we had drawn near the far-famed Morgue,
of which ever} dweller in Paris has heard. Arrived
here, Edward halted, and said in a joking manner,' lift's
look in. Gustave, and sec if an\ have been silly enough
to allow themselves to be fished up out of the Seine'.
But, Gustave, before we go in, 1 speak first for a jvm
femaU subject, if any are here as 1 have not done much
at the Ecole Pratique of late.' He said this, it seemed to
me, in pleasant jocularity — speaking of mortality in the
trifling tone customary with students. In we went; I.
more to satisfy Edward's desire than to fulfil any cravings
of my own. Only the form of one female greeted our
gaze; and as the figure was perfectly nude I was struck
with the faultless symmetry of the form. It was a
f, „,, il, subject of perfect mould. Immediately Edward
strode up and cast a glance at the features of the dead
woman, lie started wildly hack, and flung his hands
high over his head. And such a look as then rested on
his face ! My God ! I shall never forget it. Each fea-
ture seemed to stand out in the perfect agony of agonized
contortion. That look is engraved on the tablets of my
memory, and there it will remain until I am no longer a
dweller among men. With a sudden hound he grasped
lin- by the arm, and dragged me with a giant's force
toward- the suicide's plank. 'Look,' he hissed between
his teeth, 'and see .MA II IK!' I did look. Just Heaven!
and was this hi- Marie? I turned to his distorted fea-
tures. 'Why, Edward, I know this woman; she is noto-
rious in the Champs Elys6es — she is a common woman!'
A STORY OF PARIS LIFE. 120
These words fell rapidly from my lips, but their effect
was magical ; what I had uttered was true to the letter.
A wild, frenzied cry of anguish burst from poor Edward's
lips, and he fell with a heavy groan to the cold stone floor
of the Morgue. He was a maddened, gibbering, shiver-
ing maniac. But, Messieurs, I must retire and attend to
some business more important than this, I esteem it. If
I had more time at my disposal, I could tell you further
of poor Edward Lagautier; but, as it is, Messieurs, bon
soir et clormez bien."
And such was the surgeon's story, and such the manner
in which we spent one evening on shipboard.
Ship Meandre, Port of Alexandria, Egypt.
Monday, February 28th, 1859.
In one sense it seems surprisingly long since I penned
the last day's journal, yet in another view it is equally as
short. The first is perhaps occasioned by the fact that
when I wrote my last journal, the day had scarcely com-
menced to wane, and many hours of sunshine yet
remained before night came on. The second, or short
view, may be occasioned in this wise — instead of smoke-
stack, capstan, compass, cordage, and the wild waste of
waters simply to gaze at, we now have under our eye-
sight crowds of something new on which to rest our gaze,
this something being in the shape of Turks, Arabs, and
native " darkies' which swarm around our good old
Meandre in boatloads.
Well — yesterday, after getting the city full in view, we
signalled for a pilot, and lay to, until one arrived. He
1 30 \ \ OR] IN TA I. I'l LOT.
w;i- the firsl Oriental native thai nn eyes ever beheld.
Be was dressed in the costume of his country — turban,
full-flowing browsers, curled-toed red morocco shoes, and
nil. He was a tall, spare, wiry, and very humble-looking
fellow ; ami his countenance seemed to say, when lie took
command »>!' the steamer, ■■ 1 beg thousands of pardons!
Allah be praised!" I came near getting myself into
trouble, when this all-important personage came aboard.
In going into the port of Alexandria, when the quaran-
tine laws are in force, it' von intend remaining on the
steamer and continuing your journey up the Syrian coast,
you are not allowed to return to the steamer if 3-011 one-'
go ashore. If this liberty m allowed, then the authorities
in the Syrian ports of Jaffa, Beirut, and Tripoli will not
allow the steamer to enter their harbors, even. So, in re-
maining on the ship, we are watched most scrutinizingly
by a special guardian, who sees we touch not the garments,
n. of any of the uatives who come aboard. All this
trouble is on account of the Pest, which is generally lurk-
in-- in the vile dens of Alexandria. Now, when our pilot
made his appearance up the gangway of the Meandre, I
pushed forward to see him, and get a view of the parti-
cular elephant in question. Suddenly a harsh voice
seted my ear: "Arr&ez, Monsieur!" and at that mo-
ment tin- strong hand of our second lieutenant was laid
on my coat collar. lie very quickly explained his inten-
tions which, bo tar from being belligerent, were conducive
to my own welfare. He had saved me from contact with
the Egyptian, which, had I been guilty of, in duty bound.
SWARM OF BOATMEN. 131
I would have been compelled to leave the ship and my
companions at Alexandria.
After many orders given in a tongue profoundly un-
known to me, and after much manoeuvring, our worthy
Egyptian brought us safely in the rather dangerous har-
bor ; and soon our ears were delighted with the joyous
rattle and splurging of our heavy anchor. Never before
or since have I witnessed such a scene as greeted our eyes
then. We had many passengers for Alexandria ; and, as
is the case all over Europe, wherever I have been — and
the custom is carried to Egypt — they were compelled to
land by means of small boats owned by different indivi-
duals. Turks, Arabs, Egyptians, Greeks, Englishmen,
and " Niggers," crowded in myriads, forming a most mot-
ley swarm around our ship. Such yelling, in every known
and unknown tongue, I never heard, and such frantic ges-
tures for patronage I never witnessed. They fairly took
possession of our gangway ; and when a passenger would
venture down to get ashore, there ensued a real skirmish
over the spoil. Before he had descended two steps down
the ladder, he was seized by a dozen brawny, rough hands,
and away he went forth from one boat to another, as the
tide of victory rested with each particular crew. Some-
times the poor traveller, with not a cupful of air in his
lungs, beaten, punched, dragged almost in two, and nearly
dismembered, was borne high aloft amid contending
hands ; and again he would be trampled under foot, while
the combatants, dropping mutually " the bone of conten-
tion," endeavored to settle the affair vi et armis. It was
amusing, yet dangerous. The manner in which the bag-
132 DANGERS TO BAGGAGE.
was treated beggars description. Grumblers may
speak of the rudeness and smashing habits so peculiar to
American railways; bul that peculiar trait, as existing in
the United States. i\nc* not. to use a Western expression.
"hold a light" to the exploits of a trunk at this Eastern
port, and the dangers and vicissitudes of fortunes to which
it is here subjected. It is very rare that one everreaches
the boat with a sound and healthy top ; and 1 saw, myself,
that day, mor< tlian one disappear for ever in the deep l>ln<
waU rs "/lit' harbor! Such was the extent to which tic
Qoisy fellows carried their tumult, that our first lieuten-
ant, to shield the passengers from a danger whieh really
threatened them, life and limb, seized an oar, and laid
about him most vigorously for several moments. The
result was, that the gangway was soon cleared, and some
order at last restored. I was particularly struck with the
stoicism with which a hardy, venerable-looking old Arab
permitted his back and shoulders to receive the lieuten-
ant- lusty blows. He seemed willing to endure any-
thing, provided that in so doing he ran some chance of
gaining patronage. The greater portion of our company
debarked here, directly we anchored: and now the ship is
really dull and monotonous, to what it has been. A lady
and her little daughter are the only passengers now
aboard, save our own Jm/suh n> parly. She is bound to
Jjcirut.
While looking over the ship's side, yesterday afternoon,
watching the motley mass of variegated humanity strug-
gling for their prey, a row-boal came dashing up with a
middy in the stern-sheets. At the stern of the boat
THE MACEDONIAN. L33
floated the broad folds of the American flag. What a
thrill of patriotism fired our souls as we saw our country's
banner! S. immmediately hailed the boat, and was
answered by the middy most politely in native lingo. We
greeted one another quite cordially ; and the young officer,
after receiving a bundle of papers from our captain, gave
us a pressing invitation to visit the Macedonian — his
ship — and gave orders to " give way." We saw the long
high-tierced hull and tall stately masts of the Macedo-
nian yesterday morning, as we came into port. I would
like very much to tread her decks, and converse awhile
with fellow-countrymen in my own tongue, but I fear we
will not have that pleasure ; in fact I know we will not,
as visiting a ship in port is the same as going ashore.
For to-day's Journal I have not much to record, for
nothing much has transpired, and scarcely anything
worthy the record. As I have previously mentioned, we
were not allowed to go ashore, the pest preventing us
here ; and, on account of it, the quarantine laws at Jaffa.
So we had to make as much out of our shipboard confine-
ment as circumstances would allow. - We read we
laughed, we promenaded the deck, and had resort to tell-
ing tales, which we have of late found to be such an ex-
cellent means of passing the dull hours. As it was my
turn to-day, or rather to-night, I contributed my humble
mite ; and, as is my custom, I will record it when I have
more leisure, perhaps in my next Journal. I do not feel
like writing further to-night, as I have already been
seated under the cabin chandelier for an hour or more.
Our crew has been very industrious, so expeditious
L3 1 READY TO SA 1 I..
indeed, thai our cargo for this port is already discharged,
and we will Bail to-morrow morning at six o'clock. We
could Leave to-night, bu1 for the bad harbor. So in three
or four davs at most, shall 1 or shall I not stand in the
walls of widowed Jerusalem — the city of Eternal Peace?
The next Journal I hope to write in a spot far more
contiguous to the sacred city. What thoughts thrill my
very soul as I know, God willing, that 1 shall soon stand
under the shadow of the temple, and that my eyes shall
behold the revered brow of Olivet!
Sea. 1
159. J
CHAPTER VII.
French steamer Meandre, Mediterranean Sea.
Tuesday, March 1st, 18'
^HIS day has passed most smoothly. Our spirits
seem to have glided along with the same oily,
easy motion as has the Meandre through the per-
fectly calm waters of the sea. Such beautiful
weather, in fact, I never saw. A clear sky, a genial tem-
perature, a bright sun, and a sea like glass ! Such are
the days when one can enjoy sea-faring life. And this
wide difference I have often observed and dwelt on with
singular delight ; for in the changes of the sea we have a
fine comparison with things of lesser life, and their sud-
den changes. It is quite common to meet a friend to-day.
who has the sunshine of joy gleaming from his face.
His tone is cordial, his grasp earnest and well meant, his
eyes glowing with the pleasure in his soul, his step buoy-
ant, his every action speaking of bliss of mind, and sweet
happiness, which only contentment can give. And yet,
to-morrow, before twenty-four hours have winged their
noiseless flight to the shores of Past Time, mark that same
friend as he comes rushing along the crowded thorough-
fares. His lips are compressed — the mad fires of anger
burn in his soul, and pass out through the windows of the
5] \ CONTRASTS.
inner man — his buoyanl step is hard, crushing, vehe-
ment— his cordial grasp he locks in his pockel — his every
action is the antipode of yesterday's bright being — a won-
derful change lias passed over his entire nature, and the
fierce storm of angrj contentions howls through every
38 in his boiling bosom.
It is pleasant to sail the sea when standing on the deck
of a noble craft — when sail after sail bellies to the burst-
ing breeze — when the proud craft careers far to the lee-
side, as she feels the force of the impelling tide of air
heaving her onward in her homebound track. It is
pleasant to watch the clipper-bow, curling high the blue
waters of the gently-heaving deep — to cast the log, and
note the good fact that we are making ten knots an hour,
and to hear, in response to the skipper's " up with the
spanker," the sturdy and obedient " aye, aye, sir." Yes.
this is all pleasant enough; but how different the feeling,
when, late on some howling, pitchy night, we stumble
like a drunken man up the companion-way, scarcely able
to keep our feet, and peep timidly forth into the wild,
unearthly, awe-inspiring night ! Many a one, who never
tefore used the word, breathes then the name of mighty
God. There flies the scudding ship — her snowy canvass,
though we cannot see it. is brailed and furled tightly
to each yard. One lone storm stay-sail swells to the
roaring gale, and keeps the noble craft steady in her
demon-like career. The hoarse command of the officer is
heard no longer; he has done all he can, and stands
lashed to the rigging, while four men man the creaking
wheel. 5Tes, quite different is this sight, and far different
LEAVE ALEXANDRIA. 137
is the music of the taut-breeze, singing mournfully through
the cordage, from the maniac gibbers of the storm-god
invading his brother sea-god's vast domain, while his
infernal pipers peal forth the sailor's doom in whistling
unearthly shrieks through the straining shrouds. I have
contemplated both of these scenes, and write from well-
earned experience.
This morning, before six o'clock, and long before any
of us had shaken off the embrace of Morpheus, the
Meandre loosed her anchor, and stole quietly out of the
port of Alexandria. When I awoke, and came on deck
to take a look at things around, we were just dismissing
our aforesaid Egyptian pilot, and Alexandria was some
distance astern, basking in the early morning sunshine.
A most pleasing sight we enjoyed to-day, when our good
ship was ploughing the waters at a rapid rate. It was
when we crossed one of the mouths of the Nile, at its
delta. The water of the Nile is pale cream in color,
while that of the Mediterranean is perfectly jetty in its
hue. These two waters never mingle — at least, close in —
and so well is there a line of separation drawn, that this
singular phenomenon can be observed far out at sea. In
shine or storm, in calm or blow, these waters remain
unmingled, and seem to repel each other, as do the same
kinds of electricity. We watched the beautiful sight for
several miles. I was under the impression that we were
on shoal water, but our lieutenant, explaining the appear-
ance of the waves, assured us the depth was many
fathoms. Well, thus the day came and went, and late
in the evening we assembled in the cabin, to arrange
I - JAFFA IN SIG ll T.
affairs preparatory to Landing to-morrow, as we hope to
get ashore at Jaffa, before twenty hours from this. We
held a mock meeting, or a meeting in mock seriousm
and elected the following officers: — Esslinger was made
captain — m\ friend S., lieutenant — myself, Burgeon — the
good •• hu/./ar" and the Jew, baggage tenders — and Padre
Germano and Mr. S — tt. chaplains, with equal honors.
The latter, with Meiuherr and the Jew, to do any little
extra fighting in which our party might be inveigled.
We had a merry time — a speech or so being elicited from
several members of the Jerusalem 'party.
Ship MSandre — port of Jaffa in sight.
Wednesday, March 2d, L859
)ht. \
59. J
I must open the leaves of my Journal, and scribble
down the passing thoughts which hold sway in my bosom.
And such thoughts! Thoughts to which I cannot find
adequate expression in words — thoughts which never
before flittered through my soul. The hills of blessed
Palestine are in full view before me, and those beating-
wave.- in the distance lave the shores of the Holy Land.
At length my wishes are fulfilled, and the land of
Canaan spreads its ample and sacred fields before
Singular are the transitions in our life, and more
gular yet the change in time, the progenitor of these
speedy transitions. It is a circumstance, or rather an
existing portion of man's nature, on which 1 have often
dwelt, in musing moods. Due year ago, this day, I was
in Philadelphia — a student at the old University of Penn-
sylvania— frightened out of n>;. senses, in regard to one
■O* ..
REMINISCENCES. 139
grand question — " Would I or would I not receive my
diploma?" That, then, was the all-important item of
my life, and the whole energies of my animal and intellec-
tual system were centered on obtaining that prize for
whose possession I had several years studied, with much
zeal, and striven for with a devotion worthy of the cause
or of a better. The crisis came, and the shock of exami-
nation's wars fell on my buckler, but that buckler,
fortunately, was strong, and the fierce darts fell power-
less at my feet. The conflict over, I wondered why I
had been such a/ooZ as to be frightened at such an array,
and almost wished the contest was to commence again —
Commencement came — and my diploma lay quiet in my
grasp — I was more than content. Receiving hearty
congratulations at home, I turned my back on my native
country, and trusted to the dangers of the deep. Since
then, varied have been my fortunes — through many-
lands I have wandered — and to-day, I am in sight of that
sacred port, the key to far more sacred Jerusalem — old
Jaffa, the same port where Jonah embarked on his
memorable voyage to Nineveh — where the cedar from
Lebanon, for the building of Solomon's temple, was
floated in — where Tabitha was resurrected from the
dead, and where Peter " abode at the house of Simon,
the tanner — which was by the sea-side." Well, I must
let my thoughts arrange themselves, and spend their
novel surchargings, before I write further. * *
Since writing the foregoing hasty snatches, many
events have transpired, and I am now, as it were, merged
into another and a newer era. Since writing some hours
140 LANDING iT JAFFA.
Bince, I have trod <>n the sacred soil of the Holy Land!
ular baa been the action going on in mv mind, Bince
I entered here, the walls of ancient Jaffa. And no
wonder, for 1 am now a sojourner in thai land which was
the chosen of God — which afforded the stage whereon
the grand drama of the Redemption was played, and had
for its spectator, the whole world. Here, then, I stand —
in the land o[' the old prophets — anion-' the hills of Pales-
tine— whence sprang the earliest Light of civilization and
enlightenment. Here. Israel and his host of descendants
lived — here, Solomon and David and Jesse — here, in
the fields of now neighboring Bethany, was enacted the
scene of affection between Naomi and Ruth — here, greater
than all, was horn the Saviour of mankind — the man-
born Son — the divinely-begotten Jesus ; and this sacred
sod which now crunches beneath my loot, once received
the impress of His blood-stained sandal ! And can it be
that I. too. am here, and am surrounded by holy ground?
1 grant me power to enjoy this blessed privilege !
Quite contrary to our expectations, yet in accordance
with our fondest hopes, the Meandre was enabled this
morning, on account of very excellent weather, to sail
quit '-lose in shore. The sea was very favorable to our
: ling — and after some delay, and much gibbering
among the natives, who came on board, and commenced
wrangling for us in a diminutive Alexandrian style, we
finally were seated in a small row-boat. But we were once
more delayed by Padre Germano, who was somewhere —
or anywhere, but in tin; right place. Finally he made his
appearance, and rolled his fat, good-humored self, down
LANDING AT JAFFA. 141
among us — signified his ease and content, and motioned the
boatmen to give way. But lo ! and behold, good John Mon-
tag likewise lingered behind. The " huzzar," however, did
not keep us long waiting, for he soon rushed to the gangway,
and at great risk of going overboard, came tumbling down,
and fortunately fell in the boat, while his favorite expres-
sion was forced by the shock, from his lips, " Ach ! mein
Gott !" Our little boat was crowded to the utmost, and I
expected every moment, to see the water come in over its
sinking bows, but she bore up well, and our Arab rowers,
pushing off boldly from the steamer, bent to their tasks
and landed us through the breakers, with ease and safety.
As we dashed over the long swell of the waves, we
wafted a lasting farewell to the Meandre, and those who
trod her planks.
At last, we reached a rickety staircase, leading from
the water, up over the walls which skirted the shore.
Here our crew made fast the boat, and one by one, we
ascended the steps. Of all the motley crowds I ever
saw, we there made our way through the motliest. We
were completely besieged, every miserable, eyeless pauper
clinging to you, and motioning frantically, for the privilege
to carry your baggage. On all sides we were crowded
and jammed — our way blockaded, and the " sanctity of
our persons" threatened. While this state of pressure
was existing to the outer man, the ear was deafened with
continued phrenzied cries, "bakhshish-Hadji! bakhshish.1"'
which our Jew boy from Blattner's Hotel informed us,
meant, " Gift Pilgrim ! gift !" I was much amused during
this scene of hubbub, at the alternate shades of dismay,
11- LANDING at J A PPA.
.iiid then the Btoic lines of solid indifference which now
and then, in turn, possessed the good "huzzar's" Face.
He knew not what to do. More than once, he thrust his
hand in his pocket lor money, as if ho half-way imagined
their wishes, but then some unlucky Aral) would tread on
Rieinherr's toes, and in return Tor this, instead of receiving
th>' bounteous hand, he would send the offender tumbling
ial pares in front of the motive power.
We finally got lull under way, however — had dis-
tributed our quota of baggage to several aspirants in
company, who settled the matter l>\ fighting for the prize,
and away we went, with our gallant Swiss as captain.
We first proceeded in a solid phalanx to the French
consul's, and there obtained our passports. The French
consul in Jaffa is also agent for the company of the
1 ssageries hnperiales; in the office we saw our gallant
captain of the Meandre, and once more said to him
adieu. The consul very kindly gave us some information
relative to travelling to Jerusalem — to modes of travel —
time occupied — resting-places, &c, &c. for which, coming
as it did, almost unasked, we were very grateful. We
next, under the guidance of the aforesaid Jew boy, who
had met us on the steamer, proceeded to his father's
house — the English Hotel. He gave me his card, which
1 here copy, verbatim, punctuation and all.
THE "ENGLISH HOTEL." 143
ENGLISH HOTEL
by
M. BLATTNER
!:
JAFFA
English, Italian, German, and Arabick spoken <
fine view of the sea. 5
I I
Such is Meinherr Blattner's card. Where it was
printed I know not, or who did his English I am at as
great a loss to know. Meinherr and his sons could all
speak English, but as to writing it correctly — impossible.
Be that as it may, we had not been long in this singular
hotel before we were most comfortable. This hotel of
M. Blattner, let me assure all who should ever read the
pages of this blotted Journal, is nothing like what we
mean by hotel, or tavern, or inn, or house of entertain-
ment, in our acceptation of these words. And when we
mention, rather pompously r, it may be — or rather as M.
Blattner's card shows it — the name of the " English
Hotel," we must not imagine it like our Exchange Hotel
in far-off Richmond, Va., like the St. Nicholas, or, on this
side of the water, like Morley's in London, or the Louvre
in Paris, the d'Angleterre in Frankfort, the Minerva, or
d'Allemagne in Rome. No, indeed, such is not the idea
to be realized in actual vision. I cannot describe exactly,
nor anyways adequately, a hotel in Syria. It is an insti-
tution of course peculiar to the country — I mean this
species of Hotel of the genus hotel. It, our hotel, pos-
Ill in i: •• i NGLISB ii" i 1:1.."
sed 011I3 one or two resemblances to American or con-
tinental hotels, that was. in having a separate salh <)
manger, and in the beds, which bore a faint resemblance
to ours. We climbed into our hotel through a narrow
ston> cylinder, up which led a staircase, and. after being
in these narrow quarters for some time, we emerged into
a narrow, contracted court, in which were stable, kitchen,
loafing-place for lazy Arabs, (! reeks, and Turks, and
grand receptacle for ever} species of filth. An uninvit-
ing aspect diil the court present, hut things were changed,
and tor the better, when we entered the spacious dining-
room. This apartment contained two or three Eastern
lounges, a table or so, boasted a iioor of cement, and
thick walls of gray granite. The prospect from the win-
dow was superb; looking over the tops of the houses (for
Blattner's was on the \en summit of the high hill on
which Jaffa is built), and far over into the sea, we
saw the good Meandre lying at her anchorage-ground,
quietly acknowledging the power of the swell. It was
quite grateful to stand altogether in this snug and cool
apartment, after having arrived sale once more on Terra
Firma. ami Terra Santa at that, and view at our ease the
pas-in- strangeness of this novel world, by which we were
now surrounded. We immediately ordered dinner, for
we were as hungry as fish-hawks, our stomachs being in
that peculiar snappish condition left generally when a
voyage at sea is ended. Our baggage, which had loitered
behind, now suddenly hove in sight, accompanied by a
consort of about half-a-dozen custom-house officials. When
we Landed at Jaffa, we anticipated anything but trouble
CUSTOM-HOUSE OFFICIALS. 145
in regard to ffettms; through the custom-house ; for we
had read in " Murray's Guide-Book for Palestine/' by Dr.
Porter, that the custom-house was extremely lax, its
officers being accessible by the most trifling bribes, and
that " custom-house," in fact, to use his own words, was
"but another name for bakhshish." Trusting in this, we
found ourselves most disagreeably disappointed, when the
guardians of our baggage placed down our doomed port-
manteaus, &c, and when the officials stepped up, and
demanded in the most uncivil of tones to look in and
view our effects. We had nothing on which a duty could
be exacted, and told them so, offering at the same time a
pretty heavy bakhshish to pass the baggage, as we were
tired, and were momentarily expecting something more
gratifying from Blattner's larder. What was our sur-
prise, then, when in a most impudent manner they
spurned the proffered piastres, and rudely seized a trunk,
as if about to force it open. The unfortunate property
chanced to be that of Meinherr, the " huzzar," who, when
he saw the probable fate of his effects, gave utterance to
his favorite " Ach ! mein Gott ;" and with anger beaming
in his countenance, he threw the uncivil Turk, as if he
were a child, to the farther side of the room. Instead of
this doughty act of the brave " huzzar" acting against us,
and raising a disturbance, which all of us feared would
ensue, it had the good effect to make the official more
polite. But the scrutiny with which they searched our
baggage I have never seen equalled before nor since.
Every separate article was overhauled, taken out, well
shaken, and then left out for us to rearrange. But they
10
I Hi r 11 i: \ M r i; [C A N OON ST3 L.
found nothing for which the} could tax our purse. When
they had finished, the impudent rascals had the effrontery
to ask of us. bakhshish. It w as all 1 could do to prevent my
Georgia friend S. from applying his heavy list to their
craniums. As it was, he took them severally by the
collar and cast them indignantly out of the door. He
could not Btand "adding insult to injury." Another of
cur part) also made uul\ demonstrations with his hoot.
\\\ about half an hour after this trouble and hubbub
had subsided, ami we were congratulating ourselves on
the 'imn\ dinner we had just eaten, the gargon of the
hotel, the aforesaid Jew hoy, came to the door, and
announced, rather pompously, — " The American Consul!"
< >ur curiosity, which was thus so lively excited, was im-
mediately gratified. As the words left the Jew boy's
mouth, in came a splendid-looking young fellow, in a
handsome ami most costly Aral) suit, lie was followed,
at a respectful distance, by his enwass, or body servant,
holding in front of him a large cane, resembling a beadle's
stall*, with which he thumped the floor at regular intervals,
as hi- master proceeded. At his side he wore a hand-
Bome sword, though his superior wore no visible arms.
We welcomed our consul as well as we could — but he
took the lead of us in good manners, and welcomed us
mosl warmly, not only to the comforts of his own home,
hut to Jaffa particularly, and to all of Terra Santa
generally. I cannot think of the young man's name.
\\<- is a native, however — aot a "wilier Awrriran\?) —
but none the* worse •• for a' that," and is proud in being
o ir representative. The American flag flies pretty con-
THE BAZAARS. 147
stantly over his house, the consulate. He little wots, I
am thinking, of what a nation he is, in Jaffa, the exponent.
Report says he is very rich, and also says that he is a
most efficient officer. I think his sister was the wife of
the former consul here, who dying, this young man, the
brother-in-law, obtained the place. I must say, I do not
think it could have been better filled. After taking
coffee with us, in the Eastern style, and eating an orange,
our representative arose, and having once more pressed on
us his offer of hospitality, he left, attended closely by his
watchful and richly-attired caiuass. Late in the after-
noon, we saw him again.
After our arrival in this place, we learned that it was
almost impossible to go on to Ramleh this afternoon, on
our way to Jerusalem, as horses could not be obtained for
love nor money. Well, we could not alter the stern decrees
of fate, so we submitted with as good a grace as we could
muster. I had wished to sleep in Jerusalem to-morrow
night. We have an idea, among ourselves, that Blatt-
ner is in some manner instrumental in our detention.
But be that as it may, we lost nothing by remaining; on
the other hand, our gain, I consider, has been increased.
Under the guidance of Blattner's sons, we bent our steps
first to the bazaars, and sauntered slowly through them,
gazing at the many sights which were unfolded to our
republican view. Singular places, or hovels, these bazaars
are. The word bazaar is apt to strike an American, or
any foreigner, as indicative of something rich in all the
gorgeousness of Oriental splendor. Such was the idea /
had previously entertained concerning bazaars; and my
1 ! s THE BAZAARS
surprise was consequently great, when, impatiently urging
on the Jew boy, 1 asked why he did not take us through
bo the bazaars; and his reprj was, " Why, you are in the
bazaars now." 1 looked around me, through the dim light
which struggled down through the roof! The bazaars
resemble a covered street, or rather look like an exagge-
rated American covered bridge. The coarsest wood-work,
framed just strong enough to support itself, and to
withstand an occasional blast that conies from the plain,
is erected over the street; beneath it are the many
little shops forming the bazaars. The owner of the bou-
tiqiu sits always cross-legged, while you hear issuing from
near him the continual gurgling sound of his scented nar-
_ leh. The seat on which he sits, resembles, in my esti-
mation, more a blacksmith's forge, as we have it in the
country in America, than anything else. They have no
counters ; but, when you wish to buy, they bring the
articles for your inspection to the end of the little raised
platform, and you continue in the street. Here you stand,
and go through the many ceremonies and civilities, and
try your best to elude the fellow's cheating tricks. And
unless you have been well practised in Yankee Land, you
are Bure to fall a victim to. the Arab sharper. It would
prise an Arab beyond measure if he could be suddenly
transported from his own narrow shop to Stewart's palace
in New York, or to some of the marble palatial stores in
Philadelphia. Greater surprise would be his, I am think-
ing, than would be that of our grandfathers, could they
from the grave and view the enormous space in the
racecourse of Progress, over which we have strode since
THE ORANGE GROVES. 149
their troublous day. But in these miserable hovels which
are dignified by the name of bazaar, I saw some of the
most superb and beautiful articles I ever beheld in any
city of America or Europe. The most costly silks,
scarfs, and weapons abound. If I was surprised to learn
that these miserable buildings were the bazaars, I was
more than surprised when I saw a lazy Turk take down
roll after roll of the rarest kinds of silks — silks which it
seems Damascus alone can boast in all their purity. We
were very much struck with some fine old Arab arms.
Esslinger endeavored to bargain for them, but he was too
well posted in Arab rascality, and got himself skilfully
out of a rather extravagant offer he had made on the spur
of the moment.
We continued our stroll throughout the length of the
bazaars, and next took our way toward the orange groves.
What luxuriance, what richness and temptations met
our eyes ! Oranges, the finest I ever saw, five cents a
dozen, and eaten, too, on the hills of Judea ! Lemons,
citrons, and oranges exist in the greatest luxuriance, and
one becomes so completely habituated to the sight of the
large, ripe, drooping clusters, that very soon the appetite
seems sated. It was some time, however, spent in vigorous
battle with the juicy opponents, before Meinherr and
myself yielded. Finally, Meinherr's usual " Ach ! mein
Gott !" fell from his lips, and while he complacently
stroked his stomach, he continued — " Ich habe genus:!"
We saw many apricots of the finest type, and afterwards
ate some in a preserved state, at the hotel. Our host
told us the apricots came originally from Damascus. We
150 BOUSE OF S 1 M"N Til F. r a N N i;i;.
thru slowlj returned toward the city, and were fortunate
enough to get a fine view of Arab horsemen practising
military evolutions. The troopers were well mounted, but
poorly uniformed. The} are surely the most expert
horsemen 1 ever saw. Tlnx drop the reins at times,
and guide the horse solely by the heel, while they east
their long guns high in air, catch them again, and per-
form many teats, in fact, which more than astonish even
American spectators. As we neared the gate, we saw a
great many camels — some standing erect, awaiting the
word to go, and obedient to travel. They are veritably
■• ships of the desert," and can withstand the fury of many
gales and storms.
We think, on the whole, that we have had a pretty
I introduction to Eastern life on this, our first day
in the Holy Land. The music of the word Holy does
not jingle well with the clash of arms, but they are
mingled; every person we have met to-day, every native
1 mean, is well armed; and, for protection, and for moral
suasion, wi follow the fashion of the day. It can do no
harm, and may save us some trouble. Later in the da)',
and it was our last exploit in sight-seeing, we visited the
house of •• Simon the Tanner." in which ahode the deny-
in- apostle. It feels strange to crunch under our heel
the same sand on which Peter stood eighteen hundred
years ago, and it is with indescribable emotions that I
now think of that fact : so it is. The house, it is almost
folly to think, has existed since that distant day of pro-
phets and apostles; it is, I think, several hundred years
old — no more; hut its site is, without doubt, nearly or
MEET AN AMERICAN. 151
exactly the same. It is by the "seaside." It stands
directly on the sea, on the top of a small bluff overhang-
ing the tide-wash. The old well, too, of Scripture
memory stands there yet. We then returned to the
hotel, and partook of a supper which was equal to the
dinner which Blattner with Eastern hospitality had pre-
pared. He has everything extremely well cooked —
though cooked as it is in a land long forsaken by the
light of the gospel and of civilization, and which now
withers under God's curse.
We were quite agreeably surprised this morning at meet-
ing an American. He is a preacher of the Baptist Church,
and has often delivered sermons at old Sansom St. Church
in Philadelphia. His name is Mr. A s, of New York.
He has been travelling latterly up around Jerusalem, and
has returned safely to Jaffa, en route for the West. He
gave us news of the Rev. J. Wheaton S., who has been
travelling in Syria, and to whose splendid discourses I
have listened in Philadelphia. Our minister to the court
of Russia, Ex-Governor Seymour of Connecticut, and Mr.
Johnson, United States Consul at Beirut, are in town
also. The American consul here, our native friend, has
had the stars and stripes flying all day in honor to them.
We have been fortunate enough to engage horses,
Moukary (muleteer), &c, to take us to Jerusalem.
We pay thirty piastres for a horse, or one dollar and
twenty cents, in American money. To-morrow, at 10 A. m.,
we leave Ramleh ; next day, Ramleh for Jerusalem ; so
by Friday night we hope to sleep within the walls of El-
Kuds. God grant it.
1 .-J THE A DTHOR S STORY.
Roman convent) Ramleh, in tin Plain of Sharon,
Thursday March 3d, L859.
Before proceeding to speak of our present whereabouts,
1 will write a little more of antediluvian Jaffa, whose
dull gray walls now lie far behind us. Last night we
retired at quite a late hour; our party had sat up until
the small hours hail begun to draw near. I was called
upon tor my story, and in substance very briefly told the
following : —
•• A- haunted stories seem to be in vogue, I will give
one which was told me by a friend of mine, who was
well acquainted with the facts of the case. My young
friend was a college-mate of mine, and among other inci-
dent- of his youthful life, he gave me this adventure : —
One eold night in February, IS — , a jolly crowd had col-
lected in a wayside inn, just out of D., a town in Massa-
chusetts. The night was raw, and the winds bleak and
wintry, as they came trooping over the cold carpet of
snow, and singing around the corners of the old inn in
doleful pipings. But within all was gladness and content-
ment, for a large wood (ire crackled on the ample fire-
place, and spread light, warmth, and joviality through
the group. Cider and sweet potatoes were placed in great
profusion about the room, and all seemed to he joy and
Iness. None thought of the stinging winds without,
and none thought how cold the homeward path would be.
Lost in the comfort and conviviality of the present
moment, they laughed away their cares, and drowned all
thought of the chilling robe of snow without in deep
potations of the 'apple's primary juice.' Thus the night
the author's story. 153
wore on, and none seemed willing to make the first move
or take the first step toward breaking up the party,
which sat in such an unbroken circle around the fire.
The hard thought, they had to go, each would quickly
banish from his mind as fast as it arose, and each strove
to eke out another half-hour or so by the genial blaze.
Stories were told of blood, murder, ghosts, and goblins,
and told in such quantity that many of the party had
serious doubts arising in their minds if they would not
patronize the roadside inn that night, and go home by
daylight on the morrow. And some older and more
sedate farmers who composed that group, although they
had loving wives and several children at the other end of
the cold walk, who doubtless wTere expecting them, and
who would give them a warm welcome home — these same
farmers, I say, their imaginations somewhat wrought up,
and a tale or so of graveyards clogging yet their brains,
thought also it was imprudent to turn out on such a night,
and concluded, some of them, to stay in the inn also.
The company was just about separating, bidding each
other good-night and God speed, and wishing, and very
heartily too, that many such occasions might be theirs.
Suddenly the quick jingle of sleigh-bells, and the grinding
crunch of a cutter, were heard distinctly by all those who
yet remained in the old inn. It was a late hour, and the
night was raw for any one to be about in. The sleigh
stopped in front of the large door, and in an instant a step
sounded on the stone staircase, and then in the hall — and
then in strode a tall, bearded fellow. His dress was in
much disarray ; his heavy buffalo-skin overcoat was wide
1 5 I Til i: \ i thor's story.
open, his hair hung over hia face, and despite the tem-
perature of the outside weather which he had lately Left,
drops of perspiration hung in beads on his forehead.
Il«' left them not long wondering as to Ids mission.
"Landlord, he said in quick uervous tout's, 'have you
a horse for love or monej — sa^ yes, for a horse 1 must
have. [mpatience seemed to stamp Ids every action.
■■ Before the landlord could reply, the stranger — he was
a Btranger there, for none in the company know him —
commenced again : 'Think me not strange, gentlemen, in
going about my business before I was polite enough to say
•-nod evening' to you; but mine is doubly a matter of
life and death, and I must appeal to the noble-hearted-
ness of some of this party — yet listen to me, and I will
tell you the case briefly. In my cutter, which stands at
the door, I have a poor sick, dying friend' — 'Let's bring
him in by the fire,' spoke quickly the generous landlord,
starting off to the door, followed by several of the warm-
hearted tanners. 'On no account,' quickly and emphatic-
ally spoke the stranger — 'on no account; he cannot bear
removal; the sands of his life have nearly run out; to
move him would be to murder him. That poor friend of
mine, gentlemen, reached Boston from Europe a few days
He came home to die. He travelled as far as D.
by the trains, and there I met him to convey him to his
mother's, the widow II.. who lives some eight or nine
miles distant, whom [ suppose some of you know.' Several
nod- of assenl greeted his interrogative gaze. 'And so I
IiTi the town of I)., intent on my mission of mercy.
Jusl as I neared the last toll-gate out yonder, my servant
THE AUTHOR S STORY. 155
met me there in great haste, told me by all means to fly
with the greatest haste home, that my house had been
burned, and it was feared my wife had perished in the
flames. This was told me, gentlemen, not ten minutes
ago, and here I am, appealing to your kindness and aid. I
cannot leave my friend alone ; yet I must relieve this awful
suspense of mine in regard to my wife and children. If the
landlord can furnish me a horse, and if some kind friend
present, who upholds humanity's teaching, will consent to
drive my poor friend in the sleigh to his mother's, then
all will be well. The latter will be a deed of charity
which man nor God can never forget, and, added to this,
a suitable recompense I will pay immediately myself.'
" The landlord said he could lend him a horse, and as
he spoke a young and robust farmer arose and signified
his readiness to the stranger to see the sick man, his
friend, safe to his mother's, but he did not wish any
money for his action — if he could do one good act, that
in itself would reward him. The stranger gladly accepted
the offer, and after vainly endeavoring to press money on
the young man who was so disinterestedly kind, he bade
all a hast}^ good-night, mounted the landlord's horse which
had been brought to the door, and soon he clattered
quickly out of sight, the horse-hoofs ringing over the hard
snow-crust, as he rushed at a rapid pace.
" The young farmer drew on his overcoat, adjusted his
heavy gloves to his hands, and, warming himself with
another mug of cider, he bade all a cheerful good-night,
opened the door, and strode through the snow to the
sleigh. There sat the poor sick man, bolt upright; so
1 56 rHE \ i mow s STOB v
cold and rigid, thai the young man at first thought he
was frozen. "1 have consented to take you to your
mother's, sir, for your friend, and am Borry thai I kept
you waiting so Long — hope you are nol very cold, sir.'
No replj came from the sick man. The young farmer
thought a little Btrange of this, but he fancied he saw the
invalid make a Bign of impatience, and, without Baying
further, he Bprang into the cutter, arranged the thick
robe, and started. The horse in the meantime had rested
»d deal, and moved off at a smart trot.
•• Some distance was traversed thus, and as yet the sick
man had not opened his lips. The young farmer re-
marked this, but attributed his silence to averseness to
conversation, when he knew his days, nay, his very
hours and minutes were numbered, and that he was
-training every point to reach his aged mother's lap and
then expire. So our young philanthropist said nothing,
merely remarking occasionally the beauty and brightness
of the moon, and the stinging coldness of the night, or
making use of some such casual expressions,
•• At last, when about four of the eight miles had been
accomplished, and not a word had as yet been deigned in
reply to the farmer, the cutter drew near a dark tangled
wood, through which it was necessary to pa<s in order to
reach the widow H/s. The road, or jxifh, along which
they hail to go — it was nothing more — was quite narrow,
and withal was in very bad condition, and as the snow
lay in it in unequal drifts, it was at times indeed a difficult
matter to force the cutter through. They, however, had
Bafely reached the bottom of the hill, at the base of which
the author's story. 157
a small streamlet's bed presented to them a ditch of some
size. To surmount this in safety to the patient, and to
the cutter, was a matter of some difficulty. The moon
peeped over the jagged tops of the snow-laden pines, and
shone down its cold argentine beams on the sleigh and
its silent occupants; nothing could be heard but the
grating runners, and the labored breathing of the faithful
steed as he struggled heroically to do his part. A
sudden exertion of his full force carried the cutter tri-
umphantly across the gulley, but the jolting motion of the
sleigh was so great, that it upset the equilibrium of the
invalid, who, until then, in spite of jolts and tumbles, had
kept a perfectly motionless and upright position, and he
fell heavily against the young farmer. This latter person
thought he would immediatelv recover his accustomed
position ; but no. He gently raised him, spoke to him,
and asked him if he was hurt — no reply. He felt his
face — the shock was so icy to Ms already frozen hand
that it chilled him to his heart. He raised him up, and
pushed back the cap which had been dragged over his
brow.
" A deathly sight met his gaze. The cold, stony eye,
set and upturned in the rigors of death — the stiff, fallen
jaw — the drooping tongue — the bloodless lips, told him
emphatically he sat with one who now had joined Death's
skeleton band. He gently eased the dead man down;
and as he did so, the scarf which had been wound around
his neck dropped off, and revealed to the young farmer's
now terrified gaze a large cut in the neck under the left
ear, from which even now the clotting blood was slowly
1 ">s nil author's STOK v.
oozing. It was an awe-inspired feeling that reigned in
the farmer's bosom. Alone with a corpse — with the
corpse of a murdered man — on this raw, bleak night, at
midnight's hour, and in a sleigh with an exhausted horse!
•• I lis feelings were far from being enviable. What should
he do? casl oul the body, and endeavor to make his way
hack and tell how it realh was. or invent a story to suit
circumstances? Of course he would not think of going
OH to the Widow 11. s. It was all a well-devised, though
atrocious hoax — a method of shifting responsibilities — and
to this well-laid scheme he had been made the dupe. lie
determined to act the part of an honest man, at all
events — to let justice take its way. and to further its ends
in all that he could. He slowly turned his horse around,
ami silent lv commenced to urge the patient steed toward
the roadside inn.
•• Before he had gone many miles, he was met by a
party of men — going whither he could not divine, at this
time of night. They asked him immediately what was
the object he had reclining in the sleigh. Imprudently
he evaded their questions; and finally told them it was a
d'ad man. proceeding at the same time to give a plain,
unvarnished statement of the whole affair. They laughed
at him — said they saw through it all — said it was fortu-
nate they had met him, and ended by telling him they
arrested him in the name of the law.
" This was a dilemma, indeed ; hut all the farmer could
they laughed ;it. The poor man could say nothing; he
had no witnesses. I [e was taken from the sleigh and placed
behind one of his captors, and thus rode solemnly into the
the author's story. 159
town of D., one of the party at the same time occupying
the cutter. Well, the former stood his trial for murder ;
and being defended by good counsel, and good character,
was miraculously acquitted; but the stain of suspicion
of murder hung to him, until, a few years after, a pastor
was called to see a dying man in Sing Sing Prison ; who,
among other things, confessed the murder of the young
man in Massachusetts — that he had invented the stories
in the tavern, and had succeeded in fixing the guilt of
the murder on the wrong individual — and that he had
the murderer arrested by a party he sent, having assured
them that foul play was going on, on that road. The
dying murderer gave all the names, and begged the
good priest to give publicity to the facts told him, as he
wished to make some reparation to a good man. But the
most interesting part of this narrative was, that the young
farmer was my young friend's, my college-mate's, father !
'Many a time,' said my friend, 'did my father beguile
his children with this tale of his midnight sleigh-ride with
a corpse.' "
After I had concluded my story, I looked around to see
the effect it had produced. Some were half asleep; others
paying a semi-divided attention to me and a plate of sliced
oranges ; and I fancied I heard Meinherr, to whom Ess-
linger was translating my yarn, give utterance to his usual
k'Ach! inein Gott! Herr T. ist ein ." I could not
determine what the remainder was, for Meinherr with-
drew with a candle and sought his room. Shortly, all of
us followed suit, and sought the sweetest repose of man's
life, only to be found in " slumber's pleasing chains." Rev.
L60 SYRIAN MAIL SERV [CE.
Mr S — tt and myself occupied a nice airy room, over-
looking the dark depths of the Mediterranean, and from
the windows n\' which we gazed Long on the sleeping
Turkish town. Thoughts on thoughts crowded through
our minds as we stood 1>\ the humble casement of that
Eastern hotel, and recalled things of sacred import, while
we Looked on the flat-topped houses of Jaffa. But
wearied nature gradually yielded to her own "sweet
restorer." and it was with a sigh of satisfaction that wo
touched the nice clean sheets which good Blattner had
spread for us.
The dawn came, and in sport, I fired a percussion cap
on my pistol, and awoko my different sleeping companions.
We soon descended, and partook heartily of a good
meal — another triumph of our Jewish host in the culinary
department. We loitered about the town again for an
hour or two, and in our ramble we saw a j^ortion of the
mail « rrice, as conducted in Syria. This consisted of two
genuine Arabs, I should take them, dressed in rather a
fanciful, hut very picturesque style. These men bring
the mails from Jerusalem to the sea-coast, and return
with the mails, they get at Jaffa, to Jerusalem. If I am
not misinformed, they travel on foot, too, yet it is said
they make better time thus than horsemen do. That is
poor encouragement to us, and we Tiave procured horses too !
Our consul called on us again to-day; just after he left,
in came the chaplain of the Macedonian, United States
ship of war, which we saw lying at Alexandria. He was
accompanied by an American missionary, by the name
of Sanders, ;i kind, submissive, meek-looking gentleman,
AN AMERICAN MISSIONARY. 161
who seemed to be in distressing health. I do not know
to what denomination Sanders belongs. He remarked
to Mr. S — tt that he received very little spiritual
encouragement, and thought his labors as a pastor, and
as shepherd of a flock, were far from being blessed.
A hard lot that poor man's must be — away out in that
heathen port. It is little indeed that he is thought of in
his own native land, where the pave is crowded on
Sabbaths with satinned shoes — where the rustle of silks
grates richly on the ear, and where princely furs protect
the fair wearers who go to God's house to advertise some
dry-goods establishment. Little indeed think they of his
labors. What a contrast is presented ! But both are
Christians, and both are sure of heaven's shining crown.
The one reaches that happy goal because the money in
her husband's coffers can be made into ladders, by which
she can climb into paradise ; the other enters more
easily — " Faith in the Lord Jesus Christ" is his watch-
word— but so wags the world.
The chaplain — I think his name is Bixley, or something
like it — has been travelling around Jerusalem, but he
came away, and forgot a mission with which he had been
charged ; so he requested Mr. S — tt to bring him some of
the dirt from the Garden of Gethsemane — that was the
mission ; and the dirt Mr. S — tt was to deliver to him in
Rome, where, the chaplain says, he will be when Mr. S — tt
returns. They bade us good-bye, and left with many
" God speeds."
At last everything was settled up, our bill at Blattner's
receipted, and each mounting the first horse he reached,.
11
62 Bl BLIGA l. EVENTS IN J A PPA.
we rode bIowVj iii a single UK' cavalcade out of the gates.
We presented rather an imposing show, and in fact formed
quite a caravan. Bach of us was well mounted, ami
.•arli armed with -1111. pistol, or knife. As we gradually
left the place, ami wound our way through the saml\
Lanes, bordered by the gigantic cactus, many thoughts of
this old city, renowned biblically and historically- Hashed
through my willing brain. By reference to '_! Chronicles,
we find that it was at this port where was floated in the
cedar from Lebanon destined to aid toward the erection
of Solomon's magnificenl temple. In the l(>th ver.se of
the 2d chapter we read as follows: "And we will cut
od out of Lebanon, as much as thou shalt need: and
we will bring it to thee in floats by sea to Joppa; and
thou shalt carry it up to Jerusalem." The preposition
must indicate. I suppose, a rising country; but we will
before we reach the city of the Great King. It was
in Jaffa that Peter, as he prayed on a house-top, beheld a
singular vision — it was there he heard the voice in refer-
ence 10 the clean ami unclean beasts, and which bade
him eat "what God hath cleansed" (Acts x. 15). It
was in Jaffa also that the great Apostle raised "a certain
ciple named Tabitha" to life. " But Peter put them
cdl forth, and kneeled down and prayed; and turning him
to the body said. Tabitha, arise. And she opened her
eyes, and when she saw Peter, she sat up" (Acts ix. 40).
It was from Jaffa the rebel Jonah, wishing to shun Nine-
veh and gel rid of his unwilling mission thither, em-
barked to Tarshish, whither he found "a ship going:"
••-« he paid the fare there >f, and went down into it, to
MASSACRE AT JAFFA. 1G3
go with them unto Tarshish from the presence of the
Lord" (Jonah i. 3d verse). According- to Joshua xix. 46,
Jaffa was given to Dan, one of the sons of Israel. It
was then called Japho, and has changed very little since
then ; as Porter says, " a remarkable instance of the ten-
acity of Shemitic names." It is coeval with the flood, and
has a history since then which will make one ask the
question — "and is it indeed true that /stand in Jaffa?"
In its history, I refer to an incident which occurred in
Jaffa in March, 1799. It was a deed of blood — a deed
which for ever darkens the name of one of earth's greatest
heroes. It was here that four thousand human beinscs
were immolated on the altar of Napoleon Bonaparte's
proud ambition. " On the 4th of March, 1799, Yafa was
invested by the French under Napoleon. In two days a
breach was made by the cannon and declared practicable.
The town was carried by storm, and delivered over to all
the horrors of war, which never appeared in a form more
frightful. During this scene of slaughter a large part of
the garrison, consisting chiefly of Albanians, took refuge
in some old khans, and called out from the windows that
they would lay down their arms provided their lives were
spared ; but otherwise they would fight to the last extrem-
ity. Two officers, Eugene Beauharnais and Crosier, Napo-
leon's own aides-de-camp, agreed to the proposal, and
brought them out disarmed in two bodies, one consisting of
2-100 men, and the other of 1500. On reaching the head-
quarters Napoleon received them with a stern demeanor,
and expressed his highest indignation against his aides-de-
camp for attempting to encumber him with such a body
1 1' I MASSACRE v i .1 \ FFA.
of prisoners in the famishing condition of hie army. The
prisoners were made to sit down in fronl <>!' the tents,
their hands tied behind their backs. Despair was alreadj
pictured in every face, for the relentless frown of the
general, and the gloomy whispers of the officers, could not
be mistaken. Bui no cry was uttered, no semblance of
cowardice exhibited. With the calm resignation cha-
racteristic of the Muslem spirit and faith, they yielded to
their fate. Bread and water were served out to them,
while a council of war was summoned to deliberate. For
two days the terrible question of life or death was
debated. Justice, common humanity, were not without
their advocates; hut savage barbarity, under the name
yA' political necessity, prevailed. The committee to whom
the matter was referred unanimously reported that they
should be put to death, and Napoleon immediately signed
the fatal order !
•• On the loth of March the fearful tragedy was brought
to a close. The whole of the prisoners were marched
down to the sand-hills on the coast, firmly fettered; and
there they were ranged in small squares, for execution.
The French soldiers were drawn up in front, with a full
supply of ammunition. A few minutes were allowed the
victims to prepare for death. In the stagnant pools
among which they were placed, the} performed their
ablutions according to the rules of their faith, and then
uttered a few words of prayer. Taking each others'
hands, alter having placed them on their hearts and on
their lips, they gave and received an eternal adieu. They
made a Last appeal — not to the humanity of Frenchmen,
POISONING OF CAPTIVES. 165
for that they saw would be useless, but to the capitulation
by which their lives had been guaranteed. The only
answer they heard was the command for the soldiers to fire.
Volley after volley was poured in upon them. For hours
together nothing was heard but the rattle of musketry
and the shrieks of the wounded and dying. One young
man burst his bonds, threw himself among the horses of
the French officers, and, embracing their knees, passion-
ately implored them to spare his life. No wild Bedawy
of the desert * could have resisted such an appeal; yet
Frenchmen sternly refused, and he was bayoneted at
their feet. An old chief, slightly wounded, had strength
enough left to hollow out with his own hands a rude
grave in the soft sand ; and there, while yet alive, he
was interred by his followers — themselves sinking into
the arms of death. After the massacre had lasted some
time, the horrors that surrounded them shook the hearts
of many, especially the younger part. Several broke
their bonds, clashed into the sea, and swam to a ridge of
rocks beyond the reach of shot. The troops made signs
to them of peace ; and when they came back, murdered
them ! Four thousand human beings were thus butchered ;
but the vengeance of Heaven followed their murderer to
the rocks of St. Helena !"
Another act of Napoleon — a twin to the one above
recorded — was the poisoning of five hundred captives, by
Napoleon's orders. This occurred in the present Arme-
nian Convent, which the French, prior to Napoleon's
retreat to Egypt, occupied as a hospital. It is a favorite
theme for condemnation with the English. Besides the
1 6 PLAIN OF SHARON.
\ nenian Convent, used as above stated at one time for
a hospital, there are two others — the Greek and the Latin
— Imt they are all small, as are three Mohammedan
mosques which were shown us in the town. There are
said to be in Jaffa some antique columns and pillars
taken from A.scalon, bui although 1 instituted minute
inquiry, I was unsuccessful in finding them. I hope to
do SO when 1 return to the ancient port. Jaffa contain-.
1 understand, in the neighborhood of six thousand
inhabitants — the greater pari being Muslems. Chris-
tians number aboul one thousand, and uative Jews aboul
two thousand. Jaffa has a rickety wall towards the sea.
bui it could he easily scaled, as its defence consists in a
tew old puis, which are never manned.
We had a lovely and most pleasant ride from Jafl'a
through the fertile Plain of Sharon, and. as we dashed
in hilarity of spirit- over the level fields, we entertained
hopes that our journey to Jerusalem would not he such an
arduous affair after all — but to-morrow's sunset will deter-
mine that point. For several miles we had Aral) com-
pany. Several horsemen seemed to be awaiting us as we
issued out at the gate leading from Jaffa, and, uninvited,
joined our cavalcade. They jogged alowg with us until
it was evident to them we were a "slow coach." and so
they -purred away, and left us to ourselves. 'Idle Plain
of Sharon is a beautiful level tract of country, overspread
with a thick carpel of variegated flowers, stretching as
far ahead a- we could see. Numerous dry torrent beds
- I'd the outspread tract, hut verdant groups of flowers
A DECAYED TOWER. 1G7
clustering on their gulches, in rich profusion, compensated
for the disfiguration.
Sharon and Philistia, in ancient times, joined, and
many great cities stood on their united plains ; but they
are now all dead and sunken for ever. " Sharon is like a
wilderness," and the cities of Philistia are fallen. Gaza
is " forsaken," Ascalon " a desolation," Ashdod is " driven
out," and Ekron " rooted up." And as we galloped
through this land of biblical record, and thought of what
once existed here, our feelings can be far better imagined
than described.
Our pace was good, and at half past three we reached
Ramleh ; and here we are now. We have stopped at the
Latin convent, and are indebted now to Spanish Catholics
for the hospitality of the night. To tell the truth,
thanks to Esslinger's knowledge of Italian, we are now
most comfortably fixed.
After we had indulged in a good cold-water wash, we
sallied out as fresh as ever to take a look around the
town. About half a mile from the convent we came to a
large wall enclosure, and in it was an old decayed tower.
It stands on the site of what was once a large khan —
built in 1310 by the Khalif Nasr Mohammed ibn
Kalawun, and is spoken of as the ivhite toicer by Arabic
writers. It was about sunset when we reached this spot,
and as fortune would have it, we were just in time to
hear an Arab go through with his prayers. In fact, it
was his howls and shrieks and unearthly sounds that
first attracted us. The man was high up in the tower,
and his prayer consisted in sound. I could not under-
\\ OCCIDENT.
stand the substance of a monotone — spun out to such n
length, that before he concluded, 1 had sketched the
old tower, which I herewith present. Some one said to
Meinherr thai this resembled his haunted tower in Fater-
land near Heidelberg, and suggested thai the noisy some-
body in it was nothing other than his Satanic majesty,
uder Tuyfel." To this. Meinherr cocked his gray eye-
iws, ami very vehemently, as usual, uttered — "Ach!
mein Gott!" I never, in my life, saw liner specimens
of cactus than those which grow here around Jaffa, in
perfed chaparals. We saw also and .gathered some very
iitiful single whorl flowers, which Esslinger asseverates
is the far-famed rose of Sharon, and he pretends to be
"posted" on these matters. We were much struck, in
passing through the burying-ground, with the manner in
which graves are left open. They are all left with a
large opening at the Toot. 1 had the curiosity to peer
down into one. and my gaze was satisfied with the sight
of some hall' dozen bleached skulls, and arm and leg bones
in any quantity. It forcibly reminded me of my dissecting-
room day 8. When returning to the convent, an accident,
which came near being serious, befell one of our party,
in which I was a participator. S. and sell' were casting
stones at a species of hawk, which were so tame that
the birds would alight within ten yards of you, and would
only fly when we sent a stone whizzing by them. S.
wished some of the birds for the purpose of stuffing them,
hut fearing to use his gun. he trusted to stones. He
chanced to step before me just as I had propelled with my
full force a heavy missile. It fell full on his unprotected
A PRETTY VILLAGE. 1G9
head, and he dropped like one who had been shot. He
rose again, but staggered and fell. Finally, I got him to
his feet ; he is the coolest fellow I ever saw. He would
not complain, though at a slight examination I found his
pulse went flighty and irregular; and now he is laboring
under decided concussion of the brain. 1 am doing my
best for him. His scalp is cut considerably, but his cra-
nium is uninjured.
To-morrow morning at six o'clock we leave here for
Jerusalem. It is a long and hard ride over a tall, rough,
and flinty mountain path — there is no road.
This little place in which we are now so snugly settled,
and whose name signifies " sandy," is a pretty village,
situated immediately in the Plain of Sharon. It is inter-
sected everywhere with cactus hedges, while an occasional
broad-leaf palm adds beauty to the whole scene. The
appearance the houses present, is (like all Arabic towns)
very singular. They are all perfectly flat-topped, and are
built apparently of a dull, heavy mortar, which gives
them a gray, unrelieved, monotonous appearance. The
country around us, however, looks so odd, that it is pleas-
ing to a stranger even in that. In a favorite author of
mine, and from whom I have several times quoted, we
find the following succinct account and history of Ram-
leh:—
" In history there is no mention of Ramleh earlier than
the ninth century ; and Abulfeda states that it was
founded in the early part of the eighth century, by the
Khalif Suleiman, after he had destroyed Ludd. The
same fact is recorded by William of Tyre, and others.
I , 0 II ISTOH v ok i; a M i.i 11.
Tlir town Boon rose to importance, partly, perhaps, from
it- situation at the intersection of the great roads from
Damascus to Egypt, and from Yafa to Jerusalem. In the
twelfth century, the geographer Edrisi calls Ramleh and
Jerusalem the two principal cities of Palestine. Before
the time of the Crusades, Ramleh w;is surrounded by a
wall with twelve gates; four of these, opening towards
the cardinal points, had markets and mosks attached to
them. On the approach of the Crusaders in L099, the
city was deserted by its inhabitants, and immediately
occupied by the Christians, who recruited their exhausted
strength on the provisions the fugitives had left behind
them. Here the Crusaders held a great least in honor
of St. George, and formally installed him as their patron,
on account of the miracle he had wrought in their favor
at Antioch. The homage paid to him here prepared the
way tor his advancement to higher honors. England soon
adopted him. and other countries of Europe followed the
example.
••The position of Ramleh made it a post of great im-
portance during the crusading wars. In the year 1187,
after the fatal battle of Ilattin, the town, with the whole
plain, fell into the hands of Saladin; but four years later
the approach of Richard of England changed the aspect
of affairs. The Muslems destroj-ed the castle lest the
English should occupy it. But notwithstanding this, the
town became the headquarters of Richard, and the plain
around it was the scene of many of his daring exploits.
Qn one occasion, at the Feasl of All Saints, when riding-
alone, he came upon a hand of Turkish scouts, attacked
I
HISTORY OF RAMLE1I. 171
them, killed some, cut the head off a noble admiral with
one blow, and chased the remainder to the foot of the
mountains ! On another occasion, however, he is said to
have found a wild boar a more formidable adversary than
the turbaned Muslem ; for, after a hard struggle, he came
off with a broken lance and wounded charger. In the
truce between Richard and Saladin, made in 1192, it was
stipulated that the plain and coast from Tyre to Yafa,
including the half of Ramleh and Lydda, should remain
in the hands of the Christians. In 1202, Ramleh wras
entirely given up to the Crusaders, and remained in their
possession until 1266, when it was finally captured by
Sultan Bibars."
CHAPTEB VIII.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem. |
Friday, 4th March, L859. (
T A.M in Jerusalem! At last I stand in the holiest of
holies, ami my greatest earthly wish is now satis-
fied. It is a difficult matter, too, seated as I am
here, in a snug cosy room by a grateful heat, to
realize that I am in the City of the Saviour — Him who
was tin' mightiest Prince of David's royal line, and that
I have trod those same streets which He and His disciples
walked eighteen hundred long years ago — over which the
army of Roman Titus rushed in former days, and spread
abroad havoc and desolation — where, in fine, have been
enacted some of the strangest scenes that were ever
played on the stage of time in the theatre of life. Can I
indeed believe that I have gazed on sacred ( Mi vet's sloping
green, and on Gethsemane's divinely-honored enclosure?
Ay! the answer is a blissful affirmative. Here I am,
thousands of mile- from home, with two deep oceans roll-
id waters between, and — I sin nil in the home of
David and Solomon, of Peter and John and JESUS! It
bere the Btirring events of their lives robed them in
:i name, and with a fame, which have been handed down
to US, and which will be known as long as time lasts. It
(172)
"^-%J
DISSATISFACTION. 173
was here Jesus Christ, the humble Nazarene, spent a
pious life endeavoring to sow better seed from which a
richer and more abundant harvest would spring up ; and
here He played the most terrible role in the grand drama
of Man's Redemption — affording spectacular scenes which
convulsed the earth — yet which by their exhibition saved
the world from universal condemnation. No man knows
the morrow !
This morning when we arose at Ramleh, my friend S.
was a good deal better, thanks to the antiphlogistic effects
of cold water. In fact he is a wonderful, incomprehensi-
ble fellow ; I cannot understand him — or his physical
nature — at all. His system possesses singular recupera-
tive powers ; this morning he was in the saddle sooner
than any man in the party. He has an iron constitution,
and a will — material or non-material — which can be
described by the same metallic adjective. We left the
convent and our Spanish entertainers, not very well
pleased at our treatment — at least Esslinger and myself
were very much cfo'-spleased. When we reached the con-
vent last evening we had every reason to congratulate
ourselves on our safe arrival at such a comfortable stop-
ping-place; but when the miserable supper was }3laced
before us, hungry, famished men as we were, things
began to wear a different aspect. We did not complain,
however, but went to bed half-starved — we were seeking
their hospitality, and, being " beggars," we could not of
course arrogate to ourselves the right to be "choosers."
But this morning the breakfast was ivorse than the supper
of the previous evening; and when we were about to
171 PATH I'K G ERM \ No.
leave, Esslinger gave the Padre who attended on us one
yapoleon. Whal was our surprise when he showed evi-
dent signs of displeasure — even of anger! Bui Esslinger
was obdurate, and we had decided thai a Napoleon
was all thai we could disburse for such hospitality; so we
very leisurely rode away — no doubl accompanied by
many Battering anathemas. Writing the word "Padre"
reminds me of our fal friend. Father " Germano di Geru-
salemme." 'That good-natured and well-conditioned priest
came to see us yesterday morning in Jaffa before we left
thai town, and expressed his greal concern that he could
not accompany us. as he had intended, to Jerusalem.
Church matters detained the worthy friar, and so we bade
him an affectionate adieu. He quite won on us before
our voyagings together were over; he embarked with us
at Naples aboard the " Quirinal," and we saw him several
times in Valetta. but it was after we came aboard the
Meandre that the good Padre and ourselves became well
acquainted. 1 hope to see him again. Last night Mr.
g — tt and myself had a long and hearty laugh at an
adventure with which my poor wounded friend met; I
cannot record it for several reasons; it will do to tell, hut
not to //•/•//' .
For three hour- after we left Ramleh, we rode over
what is a continuation of the Plain of Sharon, along a
tolerable path— though the fields owing, to recent heavy
rains, were very muddy. At the expiration of the above
time, we reached the mountains — and then commenced
our trial- and troubles! In all my life, I never passed
er Buch ;i miserable, h<>rr'i<l road ! Up and down, and
NEARLY AN ACCIDENT. 175
vice versa — we were continually picking our way, over
flinty rocks, and jagged thorn-bushes. All the time, as I
take it, our necks were in immediate danger ; and thus
we literally dragged out six hours ! It was killing — and
so it came near being to Esslinger in reality. His horse
was endeavoring to make a step which would place him
some three feet higher than he already was — we were
climbing over a tall, beetling, flinty cliff — and the noble
animal lost his footing, and fell, carrying Esslinger back-
ward to the ground beneath him. My Swiss friend,
however, was in a twinkling on his feet, completely
unhurt. Had his gun been capped, the load from two
barrels would have passed through my body ; I was
immediately behind him, and in a direct line. Th rough-
out our journey we met many Arabs — all well mounted,
and well armed. While passing along a jagged stony
path, through the mountains at one portion of the way,
we saw several savage-looking, semi-clad fellows, creeping
and skulking about behind the gray rocks — with their
long brass-banded guns slung over their shoulders. Our
moukary Hassan, when he saw them, motioned us to close
up in more compact order, and, as well as we could under-
stand his lingo, advised us to continue so. / took his
advice, and was ever afterwards, close to our good mouk-
ary's heels over hill and dale, and stock and stone. But
the men we saw, I imagine were peaceful shepherds ; they
were not handsome fellows it is true, and grace the hills
of Palestine better than they would the. salons of the
French capital. Their arms were the only warlike
176 MISS INC WINK.
pretension they claimed, and they are worn by the most
peaceful and well-disposed.
1 thought once we Dever would stop to take our lunch
— which, owing to our slim breakfasl at the convent, was
anticipated with much pleasure. On and on, Hassan
urged hia little donkey, and in spite of our frequent
reminders, he would not stop until he was ready.
Finally we drew a glad rein, on a small green grassy
hill, where were profusely scattered the ruins of a house.
of a day Longagone. We were here very much amused ata
scene between Esslinger and Hassan, our worthy guide
and muleteer; the former asseverating that Turk or no
T" /■/,-. Hassan surely drank a bottle of our wine — and
turbaned Hassan denied most positively the "soft
impeachment." We finally concluded the contest by
exonerating Hassan, and attributed the broken neck of
the bottle, and the consequent spillage, to rough treatment
the said bottle had received at the convent in Ramleh.
After having refreshed ourselves by a good lunch,
which, lit me state, we brought with us from Blattner's,
in Jaffa, and having rested our weary limbs for an hour
or so — we once again sprang into the saddle, and com-
menced our tedious journey afresh. On and on we
staggered and clambered, trusting solely to the sure-
footedness of our cautious steeds ; and it is really sur-
prising what a degree of sagacity some of these animals
-how. The one I bestrode was a rather stout, but very
well-knit, blood bay, with a step as on steel springs. I
noticed his intelligence, once or twice. In going up or
down a path along which our route lay, whenever he
KIRJATH-JEARIM. 17
came to a loose stone, he would first place his foot
cautiously upon it, and bear gradually down ; if it gave
way, or threatened treachery, he would move several
rods out of the way — but would universally choose a
safer route to master and steed. I have become quite
attached to the prudent little fellow, and only wish I had
him in far away old Virginia.
On our way we passed several mud villages, clinging
in clusters to the rough hill-sides. We finally came to
one of some note — biblical and otherwise. I refer to old-
times Kirjath-jearim — which is now known as Kuryet d
'Enab. The most remarkable memories which cluster
around this miserable spot, are those connected with the
Ark of the Covenant, which here rested for twenty years.
By reference to 1 Sam. vi.-xxi., we read in regard to the
Philistines sending back the Ark : " And they sent
messengers to the inhabitants of Kirjath-jearim, saying,
The Philistines have brought again the ark of the Lord ;
come ye down and fetch it up." This old town once
belonged to the tribe of Juclah, and was the stand-point
to wThich several of the dividing lines of the children of
Israel were carried. We have reference made to " Kir-
jath-baal, which is Kirjath-jearim," in Josh, xviii. 14, 15,
28, — x. 17 — in 1 Chron. xiii. 5, 6, — in 2 Chron. i. 4, &c. ;
but, as I have mentioned, the chief interest attached to
the dilapidated village lies in the fact that here once
reposed the Ark of God's Covenant. There is a modern
notoriety connected with the place also, — from the fact
that it had been for several years the headquarters of
one of the most blood-thirsty robbers that ever infested
12
17s A Ul (. II A I Ml.
Palestine, On his accounl the village fares badly for ;>
•I reputation al this time; and it was with sonic slivht
Misgivings — knowing the character of the place from
hearsay — thai we slowly rode 1»\ the decaying mud wall.
^ e momentarily expected to sec a score of long-barrelled
barddeJis thrust at us from the corners of the narrow
streets. Bui we only saw a few Arabs — a wild-looking
set tlir\ were — seated together in a lazy group, carelessly
smoking their long-stemmed chibouks. The fearful bandit
of whom I have spoken, was, not very long ago, taken
prisoner by the Turkish authorities, and carried to Con-
stantinople, where he died a miserable death in jail.
This I have learned to-night, since I have been within
the walls of Jerusalem. Had I known it five hours ago,
my heart would not have beaten so irregularly.
Dr. Porter, from whom 1 have quoted several times, says,
in regard to this robber: ••There are the hereditary man-
sions of the family of the once celebrated chief, Abu Gffiavsh,
whose daring robberies and cold-blooded murders for a
Ion-- time kept the whole country in terror, Turkish
pachas included. The wild ravine down which the road
leads from the mountain ridge west of the village, to the
it plain, was often the scene of his exploits. His
safe-conduct was necessary to clear the pass; and woe
betide the solitary traveller or heavy-laden caravan that
attempted it without his permission! On one occasion,
two pacha- were -hot dead, in the midst of their retinues,
by this daring bandit. At last, however, after nearly
half a century of power and crime, the tardy vengeance
of the Turkish government overtook him. The chief
samuel's birth-place. 179
himself, and a number of his principal men, were seized
in 1846, and sent to Constantinople. The subsequent
fortunes of three of them were told to Dr. Robinson, by
a member of the family. One had died in banishment ;
another was still an exile in Bosnia ; and a third, after a
banishment of five years, spent at Widdin, had returned
home the previous year (1851). A number of the family
still occupy the village, and, though forced by circum-
stances to be a little more circumspect, their character
has not much improved."
It is a dark wild gorge in which Kirjath-jearim is
situated, and I was heartily glad when we had left it
several miles behind us.
After this historically interesting village, we passed
several others, but none of any importance. About two
miles beyond Kirjath-jearim, however, we came to the
reputed house in which Samuel was born ! It is nothing
but the remnants of a mud wall, perched high up on a
mountain, and looking barren, silent, and cheerless enough.
Further on yet, Hassan showed us a small field between
two high hills, in which, he gravely informed us, took
place the remarkable duel between David and the giant
of the Philistines. It seems singular for us to imagine
such things as true ; yet many of them, per force of
evidence, circumstantial and otherwise, we must admit as
veracious — or at least plausible.
After surmounting man}' and, it seemed, interminable
difficulties, we at last commenced climbing a high moun-
tain, from the top of which Hassan promised us a view
of the Holy City. At length we were satisfied ; Esslinger
I vii ii RST SIGH r OF J EB I S \ LEM.
reached the summit first, and mj gallant Little steed bore
me in just behind him. There la\ Jerusalem — the "lone,
widowed Queen" — full before our gaze ; its compact build-
ings clustered on a rough, ragged height ; no bustle —
murmurings of mankind's bus} cares — and no signs of
animated life meeting the eye. It was a solemn, yet a
pleasing sight, to see the minarets, mosques, and grim,
-ra\ walls flashing back the fading fires of the western
sun.
One must not imagine the .sight of Jerusalem, as it
hursts on the view, to he grand and sublime, as is the
ease with murky London and the French capital. It is
a mere handful of houses, as compared to those cities;
yet, as we stand and silently contemplate the nestling
city before us. a holy charm pervades the scene, and fills
our inmost souls with the serencst and most exquisite
pleasure that ever thrilled the thinking being. The
swelling dome of Omar's proud mosque, beneath which
reposes the " Holiest of Holies" — the broad, square outline
of the Tower of Ilippicus, or house of King David — the
tall, arched roofing over the Church of the Holy Sepul-
,.],,,. — and the just visible, swelling, beauteous brow of
the .Mount of Olives, all lay in sight. My feelings were
like those of a dream; 1 could scarcely realize that my
brain was performing its rightful function. 1 drew my
pistol from my belt, and discharged it in the air. As its
loud report fell on our ears, the spell which held us was
dispelled, and each of us uttered exclamations of joy and
wonder, as the full force of our novel position came up
before our minds. Our moukary and his attendants cast
WITHIN THE WALLS. 181
themselves from their horses, and crying El-Kuds ! El-
Kuds ! (the Holy ! the Holy !) prostrated themselves on
the ground.
We rode slowly on, over a broad plateau of rough
shrubs, and stones, and with feelings which none can
describe, we in a few moments, more solemnly entered
the Jaffa Gate, and stood within the walls of Jerusalem !
Strange emotions those, that flashed through my mind —
but they were not allowed to remain in possession of my
bosom long ; for the swarm of Arab and Turkish boys
that surrounded us, was perfectly awful ! Among the
motley crowd, was a runner from the Mediterranean
Hotel — a Greek I take him to be. He speaks English
and Italian well — he is a most importunate fellow ! and
even said that he knew our desires, and our necessaries,
better than vie ourselves did! He even asserted most
authoritatively that we should go with him to his Hotel.
But Esslinger, whom we had elected Captain, had made
other arrangements ; so pushing the fellow rudely and
decisively aside, he motioned us to come on, and we
followed Hassan, who, obedient to Esslinger's orders, was
leading the way to the Prussian Hospice. Our Jew friend
whom I have mentioned before in this Journal, was
met, just before we entered the gate, by his joyous family,
who reside here. He is living here engaged in a dyeing
establishment ; he anticipates great riches. He promised
to call in at our quarters, here. When we had fairly
entered the city, we had to dismount and go afoot, as the
stones were very slippery, and some of the descents and
ascents very sharp. I never before saw such streets — not
1 82 111 i: PR l SSI V N HOS PII E.
wide enough for two horsemen abreast, and so steep and
broken that it Looks like a needless risk of life to ride
down them. We were the object of much wonder as we
walked through the streets, speaking English and German
— but their garb and themselves — touie ensemblt — were
sights equally as novel to our gaze. .M\ pistol, purchased
in Naples, — hanging in my belt, seemed to attract the
avaricious eyes of several young warlike Arabs. Finally-
however, we arrived at the Prussian Hospice, where we
had previously determined to " put up," while we
sojourned in Jerusalem. And here we are all now-, and
most comfortably "fixed," too. We have had coffee and
coarse bread, and are much refreshed. While I am
writing these words, our company congratulate them-
selves on our safe arrival in this ancient city. This
hospice in which we have been so fortunate as to obtain
lodgings, is supported at the expense of the Prussian
Turnout, and is solely intended for the entertainment
of travellers. It is a snug and most comfortable place;
but a rery singularly constructed establishment, withal —
genuine Eastern style, of course. A high wall or founda-
tion looks on the street, and on it the house proper is
erected. We climb up a narrow wooden staircase from
the Btreet, and step into a court about forty feet square;
around this enclosure, the house is built. The kitchen
is directly in front of the door from the street. We
end a flight of stairs, leading from the first court,
and come to a terrace — here are the best rooms. Mr.
S — tt and myself occupy one. Another short staircase
Leads to another terrace, where is situated the room which
DR. BARCLAY. 183
has been assigned to Esslinger, S., and the " brave
huzzar." Another flight of a few steps leads to the
" wall" or top of the house, from which a fine view is to
be had, and where I expect to pass many evenings,
despite the temperature, which is anything but pleasant.
Our room is very airy, and the thermometer is very low.
In coming from Ramleh to-day, the sun was so hot in
the valley as to burn my face as " brown as a berry" —
in fact, so excessive was the heat, that I panted as if
I was laboring through one of July's hottest days. But
here in Jerusalem, it is quite different ; the winds whistle
ominously around the buildings, and through the narrow
streets, and the sky wears a threatening snowy aspect.
From our window, we have a fine view of Mt. Scopus,
Mt. Olivet, Church of the Ascension, a small portion of
the present Silwan (or ancient Siloam), Valley of Jehosh-
aphat, the Hill of Evil Advice, the Mosque of Omar,
and Mt. Zion. What holy feelings necessarily pervade
us, as these sacred objects are thrust on our view !
After we had partaken of coffee, Mr. S — tt called on
the missionary, Dr. Barclay, who is so favorably known
by his elaborate work, the " City of the Great King." He
has just returned, with an invitation to our party to repair
thither in the morning, and take our "first comprehen-
sive (?) view of Jerusalem from Mt. Zion," whereon the
Doctor resides. Mr. S — tt reports that he became
acquainted with a young lady at Dr. B.'s from Virginia !
I mention this, because it seems .so singular that a young
lady should be here from Virginia. A long way from
home she is !
Jnj FIRST WIGHT IN JERUSA LEM.
Bui 1 musl close m\ Journal 1 believe 1 could write
all night; but I need deep, and it waxes late, and I must
be refreshed in order to enjoy the Bacred sites and Bcenery
wound me.
The bub has sunk to-nighl on me in Jerusalem — this
same sun. eighteen hundred years ago, witnessed, in neigh-
boring Bethlehem, the birth of the humble Nazarene;
and afterwards turned red at His Bufferings OH Golgotha,
up yonder! Singular! and yet — not singular.
CHAPTER IX.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem. 1
Saturday, March 5th, 1859. j
('^r^HIS nas been a singular day to me — singular, be-
cause surrounded by so much of oddity, that my
position has been painfully novel. We did not
rise from our comfortable beds until quite a late
hour this morning ; we needed rest from the fatigue yes-
terday's labor entailed on us; and so we courted the
Sleep-God until ten o'clock, and were loth even then to
loosen his embrace.
Having partaken of a rather simple breakfast — one
in which we were much deceived — we started, en masse,
for the residence of Dr. Barclay, to fill Mr. S — tt's
engagement of last evening. We were most hospitably
received by Dr. B., at his home on Zion — and we were
most agreeably entertained, and, though in Jerusalem,
in real " Old Dominion" style. I am much afraid that
out peculiar costume, chosen in accordance with the rude
nature of the country, did not do honor to our worthy
hosts. We satisfied ourselves, after we withdrew, with
the reflection and hope that they knew we had better
attire somewhere in the world. I am confident, however,
that our kind entertainers never once thought of our
(185)
1 86 a B i ki> s-i; v v. v 1 1: u .
apparel, however brusque it was. Many a Laugh, 1 hope.
our tlritut on .Mi. Zion will aiSford me, in coming years!
1 had .in interesting conversation with Mrs". 1>.. whose
iH'\\ a doctor of medicine, I have often seen in
Philadelphia, I . S. Mrs. B. informs me he now practises
at Beirut.
After conversing most pleasantly for awhile — during
which while, however, poor Montag could not say a word
on account of ignorance of English — we all adjourned at
the Dr.'s request to the terrace of the house, in order to
look around. Dr. 15. explained very fluently the various
ideas he held concerning the situation of several localities
of religious importance and dispute; he put us in posses-
sion of facts in regard to sites. &c, &c, of which 1 have
Longed, even since childhood, to think. The Dr. informed
us that the valley before us once echoed to the footfalls
of King David's warlike hosts, and also to the frenzied
cry of the rude Romans of Titus's army — that the very
house beneath US stood on Mt. Zion. and under it was to
this day an aquedud of Solomon's antique time. To our
left he pointed out the magnificent Mosque of Omar, said
to possess a dome of the most perfect spring in the world.
This reminded me forcibly (though considerably smaller.
I should think) of the Lordly dome of St. Peter's iii Koine —
tic- towering monument of the almost divine skill of
Michael Angelo. We gazed with interest at the open
enclosure (by which I mean free from trees and much
tended) of the ancient Temple or present IlaramArea,
wherein should :i "Christian dog" by mistake or otherwise
:. oil' iroe.s |,i. head! Dr. B. related to us several
AN ADVENTURE. 187
anecdotes of fruitless attempts on his part to enter the
enclosure. He wished to explore the whole establishment,
in search of objects of interest and ancient antiquities.
It had long been his wish to do this ; and he had offered
bribe after bribe to the janissaries to allow him to enter,
and on the condition that he would run all risks when
once within the enclosure. Several different janissaries
had consented to this plan, but directly the Doctor
wished to put his design into execution, the watchful
and remorseful guardians of the Pacha's holy things
would refuse to perform their part of the contract, and
the Doctor was disappointed time and again. Finally, it
seems (this was told me by Miss , the young lady
staying at Dr. B.'s) Dr. Barclay offered one of the janis-
saries a horse, provided he would allow him, disguised
and arrayed to suit himself, to enter the enclosure. The
offer was too tempting to be refused, and this time the jan-
issary was as good as his word. The Doctor was admit-
ted ; but, not understanding the locality sufficiently well,
he was soon detected ; his fleetness of limb alone saved
his life on that occasion — a " trying" one truly ! He
afterwards, however, was sufficiently fortunate to obtain
permission from the pacha to visit the Haram, and he
then had the satisfaction to visit thoroughly all places
of interest within the enclosure. Miss Barclay (the
daughter of Dr. B. and the wife now of Mr. Johnson,
American Consul at Beirut), whose recently issued work
I was fortunate enough to see a few days ago — or
rather yesternhjht — gives an account of a visit to the
Holy of Holies, which she performed at great personal
188 MISS BARCLAY.
risk, and which could «> n 1 \ have been performed b\ one
possessing the fullest developed powers of determination.
It Beems the young 1;m1\ after various bribes, succeeded
in winning over to her purposes several women of the
Hareem, who promised to give her lessons, necessary to a
righl conduct when once within the enclosure. She took
regular exercises in a dress as worn by the women of the
Hareem, and finally expressed her willingness to under-
take the arduous task. Unfortunately she had not prac-
tised sufficiently the art of walking in Eastern sandals,
and that deficiency gave her great annoyance. She
entered the enclosure with several of the women, being
pletely disguised as one of them. She had nearly
reached a sentinel who stood with his naked gleaming
scimitar — the custodian of the place — by whom it was
necessary lor them to pass. Suddenly Miss B.'s shoe,
which -he had been endeavoring for some time to keep
on. caught against an impediment and fell from her foot.
Sh«- was bo confused at this, that involuntarily she threw
up her long veil which covered her features. In another
instant she would have been discovered, but the Turkish
Bentinel, true to his orders and the custom, turned away
immediately, and did not look on her face. It is a severe
penalty for them to look on the face of a woman. She
then gathered renewed confidence — for she knew from
this circumstance that -he was not suspected — and she
ssed safely on. To this is due the magnificenl chromo-
ph view of a scene under the proud dome of the
Mosque of Omar, which appeared in Dr. Barclay's justly
celebrated work. "The City of the Great King." This
MOUNT OF OLIVES. 189
was a hazardous adventure when we remember that
the penalty, if discovered, was death, or become a member
of the hareem. With our sex there is no alternative ; the
bowstring is our immediate sentence and doom. So none
of our party were sufficiently emulous of fame to try
the experiment of standing beneath the "Dome of the
Rock."
But I have been guilty of a lengthy digression, and
must now return to the roof of Dr. Barclay's house, on
Mt. Zion. From our position we could plainly see the
Mosque el-Aksa — a long barn-like looking building, with
a flat top and a small dome. It reminded me forcibly of
a country railway station in America — the dome, on
el-Aksa, representing the cupola or bell-house, on the
station-house. This mosque does not compare in grandeur
with that of Omar. The beautiful slope of Mount
of Olives lay before us, its green sides arranged in
terraces which stretch from top to bottom. On the
summit of the sacred mountain is situated a church,
called that of the Ascension ; because, by some, the spot
is thought to be identical with that of the Saviour's
ascension. We could plainly see the further wall of the
Garden of Gethsemane, in the valley of Jehoshaphat —
and the thousands of Jewish tombstones scattered beneath
the olive trees — and spotting everywhere the sides of the
sacred mount. Jews of every clime, country, and genera-
tion, all struggle thither, that their bones may rest in
the land of Abraham and Israel ; and the love they
possess, even now, for poor fallen, dilapidated Jerusalem,
is strikingly exhibited in this last act of their lives,.
I'm i in r .1 1 u s.
which place- their bones under the turf of Mt. Olivet,
to bleachen beneath the shadow of the Temple wall.
It is strange what an unanimity of feature betrays these
wandering ami widely-scattered people, which were once
the largesl flock that roamed the plains of Palestine. In
Northern Syria alone, we find examples of a race bearing
the mini- of dews, who are very sliuhth Jewish, accord-
ing to our standard, in features, in manners, or customs.
They are a tar nobler set than those dews who Hood
Jerusalem, and who stock every port in the Levant, and
whose face is the guarantee for acts of contumely and
contempt towards the unfortunate owners of the Israelitish
features. This class, however, affords the only example
of diversity of features and habits. Our Jews in America
— of course much more refund, and far more deserving,
because, in many of our cities, they form the most, and
sometimes tic only, creditable portion of our population,
— show the same similarity of features — the short curly,
glossy dark hair; the clear, beautiful skin ; the almond-
Bhaped, Liquid eye; the large sensual mouth; the still
Larger and thoughtfully ponderous nose — all are the same
;i- with the richly-attired, turbaned, and red-sandalled
merchant who loiters through the narrow streets of Jeru-
salem, and with the miserable leper-mendicant who begs
alms of you, at the Zion nate. And they all show this
reverential feeling toward their long and forever lost
city — which shone with such splendor in the days of
Solomon, and towered so grandly when the humble One
of Nazareth Buffered crucifixion on neighboring Golgotha.
Tie- Hill of I'M! Counsel (or Advice) lay to our right,
ACELDAMA. 191
and over against us. It was here " they took counsel to
kill Jesus." Right above is the Hill of Slander (or
Reproach) because Solomon in his old age, carried away
with lustful passions, and forgetting the God who gave
him his riches, wisdom, and power, here erected a
gorgeous temple to his courtesans. It is known to
this day as the Hill of Slander, and furnishes a good
example of how a bad name clings to one, especially
when it is deserved. In the same locality, is Aceldama —
the " Field of Blood"— the small patch of land, bought
with the traitor Judas' ill-got money. It is a barren-
looking rocky spot — one well befitting in looks the
dastardly act by which the bloody tract was purchased.
On the site of Aceldama, stands now a long low building
which is, and has been used as a charnel-house. Farther
to the right, below the " gardens in the King's Vale," in
the downward torrent-bed of the brook Kidron, situated
high against the overhanging cliffs, is the Village of
Silwan — called so from its proximity to the Pool of Sacred
Memory. We could only see the top of some of the
straggling mud huts of the village, as the rest was
concealed behind the swelling brow of Zion.
After feasting our eyes with the varied scenery of
sacred spots from the house-top, we descended and partook
of some refreshments in the shape of nice pound-cake,
and what was better still, we were given to " wash down"
the delicious cake, nothing more nor less than wine from.
Hebron — the juice, pure and unadulterated from the wild
vineyards of Mt. Hebron ! Just to think of that ! It
L92 PL \»'K OF w \ i l I \ i...
scarcely Beems possible that such a l«>t should be mine —
hut bo it is, and I am thankful.
A.s Dr. Barclay suggested, we descended, and, with him
as our guide, we wound through several narrow alleys,
and took our way to that portion of the ancient Temple-
wall, where the .lews meet on every Friday, to weep over
the misfortunes of their fallen race, and lave the large
stones iu penitential tears. It is called from this
observance the " Place of Wailing." We enter the sad
Bpot by a low gate, and stand in a small enclosed space,
quadrangular or rectangular in shape, which is roughly
paved) Modem houses stand on one side, a low wall on
the other, and the Temple wall on the remaining sides.
We saw several stones of magnificent proportions, having
a singular flattened or bevelled edge, indicative of Jewish
workmanship and of great antiquity. There are many
large clefts and fissures in the rocks, into which the poor
Jews protrude their heads, as far as they can get them
when they wail; and the rude rock in many place- is
worn smooth \>y reverential tears and kisses. I was
'aged in getting a piece of the ancient stone from the
wall, as a souvenir of the place, and not with any idea
of defacing the masonry at all — when a Jew, of whom
there were three or four present, very violent 1\ reproved
me, as I judged from his manner. He seemed as if
meditating personal violence, despite the presence of
our party. I desisted immediately, and gave a signifi-
cant glance toward my pistol which hung in my belt.
That was sufficient — he left me, poor fellow! and I
procured the relic. By those who have witnessed the
I ! !
r-f-v
feM
^'; II
i As &&
PLACE OF WAILING. 193
scene — which can be clone every Friday — the wailing day
and its sights, are represented as being affecting in the
extreme. Young and old, male and female, rich and
poor, all cluster here in swarms, and send forth in
prolonged and mournful chorusses their piteous wailings
over their lost and now defiled sanctuary. As we stood
on the spot, and heard Dr. Barclay so vividly describe
the scene, how vividly did all the glowing recollections
of Solomon's gorgeous Temple flash in flying battalions
over my mind ! How sunken now and how changed the
scene ! The turbaned Muslem treads through the
sacred cloisters and archways which once echoed to the
footstep of the wisest king of the East — and the lofty
towering portico and the brilliant golden fane, are now
hid beneath the debris of ages, and buried in fragmentary
ruins beneath the wreck of time. Truly, indeed, " Oh !
God, the heathen are come into thine inheritance ; thy
holy temple have they defiled ; they have laid Jerusalem
on heaps. The dead bodies of thy servants have they
given to be meat unto the fowls of the heaven, the flesh
of thy saints unto the beasts of the earth. Their blood
have they shed like water round about Jerusalem ; and
there was none to bury them. We are become a reproach
to our neighbors, a scorn and derision to them that are
around about us." (Ps. lxxix. 1-4.)
Dr. Barclay wished to show us a gate, or the remnants
of one, which he discovered sometime since ; but we could
not climb over the wall to get at it, and the proper open-
ing was closed. The Doctor says the gate is a magnificent
relic of by-gone ages ; he considers it one of the ancient
13
I'.'l mi: BAZAARS.
splendid Temple gateways. 1 made a rude sketch of
the " Place of Wailing," l»ut bave since found an admira-
ble photographic view of it, which I have appropriated.
It is accurate to the utmost minutiaa.
From this place, so sad in its interest, we took our way
toward tlic Bazaars, expecting of course a fare sight of
splendor and beaut) spread out for our curiosity, our latter
and disappointed expectancy notwithstanding. We found
most of the Bazaars buddled together all in <t heap, so to
term it. in one locality. Through these we wind and
-'. aboul by a narrow pathway of stone leading the
entire length of them. Such a disagreeable, pent-up
odor — odor of had tv/mbac from gurgling narghileiis, I
never before experienced. The owner of the Bazaar pre-
sents quite a different appearance from the well-dressed,
smart, polite clerk who stands at your service in Pari-
sian boutiques. I was struck with one remarkable trait
about the vender — his complete apathy — his entire now-
chalanct — his " I-don't-care-whether-you-buy-or-not" look.
This was apparent at first; hut when the Turkish dealer
became warmed up with the subject of trade, and remem-
bered, too, he had ••Hadjis" to fleece, this dull conduct
rapidly disappeared; and he rivalled in euteness and well-
conceived and In Ui /'-executed cunning some ofow keenest
Yankees. We lingered long, looking at the many gew-
- ainl enticing articles which as souvenirs the store-
men artfully placed before us. We, the American element,
could not resist the temptation, and, much to Esslinger's
disgust, we purchased several trifles to carry to our far-off
friends as remembrances of this old, holy city. Some of
THE BAZAARS. 195
the cornelian stones we find here in the shops are indeed
most beautiful, and the skill with which they are cut
is surprising — for I am told it is Turkish or Arabic
workmanship. As the articles in question were cheap,
we, with the exception of our Swiss friend, who wanted
none of the " trash," purchased freely. To-night we have
received a hint that the stones are originally from the Red
Sea, and that the workmanship is French! In other words,
the stones have journeyed to France, and back to Jerusa-
lem, and found purchasers in Yankees ! Be that as it
may, I am quite certain of this, the stones were bought by
us in a Jerusalem bazaar. Among other things, we saw
some very rich and handsome shawls and scarfs, two or
three superb-looking native watches with tortoise-shell
cases, and a whole cargo of Eastern watches, Oriental
Arabic dial-plate, made — where ? Down East in Yankee
land! Yes, indeed; Brother Jonathan makes Arabic
watches, and sells them in large quantities — of course at
good prices and profits. We saw also some very hand-
some and truly elegant sabres; and there were many
other things to please the curious ; but Esslinger became
so impatient to be a " ganging," that, to please him, we
left the Bazaars. I was glad myself when we passed into
the fresher atmosphere, and heard the last narghileh
gurgle on my ear ; for a bazaar, however rich and gor-
geous the picture the word may paint on the imagination,
is far from being a place of pleasure, -especially when
compared to the Pincian Hill, the Cremorne Gardens, or
the Pre Catelan I
On our way to the Church of the Sepulchre, whither
KNIGHTS OF ST. JOHN.
we dow bent our steps, we passed by several factories of
glass armlets and anklets. Such a quantity of this article
1 never sam in all my life. The Dr. informed us thai the}
were put on a child's wrist or ankle when quite young,
ami allowed to remain there throughout life. They are
considered a great ornamenl in either place — a cheap one
certainty beingonly worth two piastres (eight cents). On
this same street, and jusl before we reached the narrow
entrance before the Church of the Sepulchre^ we saw the
fine ruin nf the once magnificent Hospital of the Knights
of St. John. A well-preserved ruin it is. A large and
handsome gothic gateway with a pointed arch is the
entrance hy which access is obtained to the enclosure.
To any one who has read the smallest portion concerning
the deeds of this heroic ecclesiastical order — to any one
who has heard the name of Godfrey or Richard of the Lion
Heart — singular emotions must thrill his bosom as he
- on this sad wreck of what was once a lordly pile —
on this spot where once the bold knight's voice, as clear
as hi- battle-bugle, rang on the air. I would like to tell
herein tin- romantic story of the Templars, and would
lovingly linger over the chivalrous adventures and final
disastrous extinction of the gallant Knights of St. John
of Jerusalem; but I have neither time nor ability. I
.-hail visit again the ruin, and there, amid the solitude
and sweetness of my own musings, I shall glut my soul
by thinking of those by-gone deeds of that gallant Chris-
tian band whose baldric and falchion Hashed in the battles
of the C I
I have heard that this large enclosure has been recently
CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE. 197
given to the present Napoleon, Emperor of the French,
by the Pacha, as a bakhshish, or, to make it more appro-
priate, as a poitr boire. How true this is I know not.
Porter mentions the fact in connection with the ruin, that
a tannery exists here now, and that the odor therefrom is
insufferable. So unbearable is it, he says, that often anti-
quarian and tourist are deterred by it from becoming
acquainted with the many curiosities of this once splendid
hospital. But of that I discovered not the slightest sign.
Some fifty yards further on, we came to the Church of
the Holy Sepulchre. It is said, as all know, by some,
that on this site once reposed in death the body of the
Saviour of mankind, and that beneath the dome of the
church is now the self-same sarcophagus which once con-
tained the sacred corpse — also, that under the roof of the
edifice is Golgotha. Of course, about all this, as of every-
thing else, there is much dispute ; and it is very plausibly
asserted that Jesus neither rested here in death, nor is
Golgotha here situated. Of all of this I may treat more
at length in a coming day's Journal, when I am more
familiar with the sacred objects which are here grouped
together, and with the facts of the ca^se.
The worshippers in this church, Greek, Latin, Arme-
nian, &c, &c, say that all shall bow the knee, when enter-
ing the court of the church. So ive came in the category,
and had to do as others do. Meinherr, at this point, came
near injuring himself seriously ; in going through the low
stone entrance, he raised his head too soon, thinking he
was free from the gateway; the result was, his cranium
came in violent contact with the stones ; and, as a final
I - rill RCH OF T n l: HOLT S EPI LCH R E.
res lit, Meinherr Buffered from temporary concussion of
the brain.
A-wc Btood direct^ in front of it, the church presented
a fine appearance; its noble portal and tall swelling dome
showed well under the noonday sun. I will defer any-
thing like a description, because we saw nothing to
describe — the church being closed, and would be opened
only under the influence of a heavy bakhshish; this we
concluded nut to give, knowing that to-morrow morning
the portal BwingS free to all who may enter. It is with
the greatest pleasure that 1 look forward to visiting this
sacred place.
Whether or not the church deserves its sacred title,
the simple fact, that the Christian sects of the East all
ie in bestowing it. is sufficient to cause us to approach
the place with the Liveliest feelings of awe and veneration.
1 d< ly the Bternest Atheist, the most unflinching infidel.
th«- most fanatical Pantheist, to stand before the noble
fagadt of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and while
he recalls that long dead fact which gave the name to
the edifice:, to shut out from his bosom the teachings of
his conscience — that there was a Christ who died for our
si,,. _that there is a < 'luist who reigns for ever — our
future Father, our eternal Judge.
We then bade adieu /»■<> tern, to Dr. Barclay, and
rtedon our way home to the Prussian Hospice. We
were sure of finding our way quite readily hack to our
quarters, notwithstanding Dr. 15. assured us we would
find //a difficult undertaking. But we merely laughed
;lt him. thinking he was joking us— and took our way
AT A LOSS. 199
rapidly through the Bazaars. At the other end we
expected to turn into a little street, and in a few moments
stand at the foot of the outside staircase of the Prussian
Hospice. We reached the end of the Bazaar, but no small
street teas there ! This looked badly. Well, we wandered
about considerably, each man— Esslinger in particular-
confident of his knowledge of the way, and giving orders
to "follow me!" but we finally came to the conclusion
that we were all wrong, in toto. Whereupon we held a
council of war. We could not speak Arabic sufficiently
well, to make any inquiry of those passing ; nor could the
silly Turks and Arabs speak French, German, or English,
but we had slight hopes of Italian, as some of the Arabs
understand it. So, like a parcel of fools — or sheep, to say
the least — we were compelled to stand still, and watch out
in every direction for some decent-looking fellow, who when
he came by, Esslinger would rush out, and accost with a
half-mad " non parlate Italiana ?" A vacant stare, a very
puzzled look, and then a volley of gutturals deep enough
to choke a German would fall on poor Esslinger, from
whom a smothered " tarn !" alone told us the ill-success
of his venture. After shifting head-quarters a dozen
times, and wandering about an hour or so, like a discon-
solate guerilla party, we at last fell in with a very
Dutchy looking boy, who in response to Esslinger's
hazardous " Konnen sie Deutsch ?" admitted that he could,
by opening his mouth and dropping out a most emphatic
"ja! mem h err-so T "Gut!" ejaculated Esslinger, his
eyes brightening up. To make a long story short, the boy
very kindly led us about twenty-five yards, and turning
200 a i>\ i n r r R K IN \ K N [C E.
sharply to the right, there lay our staircase looking as
natural as ever. "Da!" said the boy — and refusing to
accept a trifle, \\ alked off, followed by our well wishes. We
had walked wound the Hospice a dozen times.
This adventure reminds me of one similar, in which it
was my fortune to participate. It happened in Venice.
M\ good friend, Frank G., of New York City, and myself,
sallied out, the afternoon after we had arrived in the far-
famed water city, to view the beauties of the Molo and
the Piazzetta di S. Marco — to gaze on the Ducal Palace,
the Grand Canal, and the Bridge of Sighs. We very
r.adih found the Piazzetta di S. Marco, because the
entire promenade-tide set in that direction, and the hour
for promenading was near. After sating our curiosity to
some extent, our hunger became so great, that it was
ssarj to sale that, as well. So we turned about, and.
walking leisurely toward our hotel, the ViUoria, con-
tented ourselves with arraying, in our imagination, the
1 things our Venetian albergatore would spread before
at the quick-coming table d'hote. On we walked, and
dived and twisted into and about the narrow streets — but
the hotel did not come in sight at all! The houses
around us, too. frowned down upon us, and looked very
_ • and unfamiliar, as the}- Hung their distorted
Bhapes over the narrow streets. Well, we walked, and
walked, and walked, and c'Stait '<>>//. as the French say.
We could not find our way hack, that was a manifest
tainty; ami. in order to get home and get sometliiinj t<>
eat, we finally entered a store in the Piazzetta di S. Marco
— hack to which we had wandered a dozen times — and
BLACK BREAD AND GOAT MEAT. 201
hired a store boy for a zwanziger or so, to show us the
way. He walked about two minutes, in a perfectly straight
direction, it seemed to us, and turned into the court-yard
of the Vittoria.
But to return. When once back in the hospice, we
indulged in cold water, externally and internally, and
then sat down to — I must say, in justice to my veracity,
in my humble opinion — a most miserable dinner. Black
bread and goat meat ! bah ! But to compensate for
the edibles, we had fine wine from the Judean Hills,
and in great abundance. This liquor resembles very
much in flavor, and is equally as good as, the Lachryma
Chrisii of Rome — and oh ! it is so much cheaper ! only
costing us about twelve or fifteen cents per bottle.
Essliuger speaks grandiloquently in its praises, and
asserts, with German vehemence and Oriental enthusiasm,
that he intends sending a ship to Jaffa, and have it
freighted with this nice, cool, sparkling wine. S. suggests
that he be made skipper of said craft — and the subject
getting dreggy, drops.
Having finished the ordeal of wadding down goat
meat and black bread, and black bread and goat meat,
as the case happened to be, we procured horses, and,
pursuant to our engagement with Dr. Barclay, proceeded
to his house on Mt. Zion. Essliuger and the valiant
v- huzzar" did not accompany us ; they were deterred by
prospects of a rain. The doctor, on this visit, was to
take us around the walls of Jerusalem, outside, in order
to make us familiar, to a certain extent, with the present
;ii id ancient landmarks of the city — an all-necessary, or,
at least, very important preliminary step, prior to a
202 I'll r. GOLDEN G \Tl-:.
urn amid this debris and wreck of antique times.
Unfortunately for our plan-, the doctor was ailing; be
had a violeni nervous headache, and could not accompany
us. Bui Miss , the young lad} staying with Dr. B.,
mosl kindly offered her services as our guide; we heartily
accepted, and. without wasting our time, off we started,
all in -ood spirits, and. what was better still, in good
,7, s — quite an item for a rough cantor here. We
dashed rather hastily, and dangerously, I thought, along
the narrow, rockv. slippery, descending paths — or streets,
t.» dignify them by another name. We at last left the
city, and by St. Stephen's (late. Near this gate, they
say, St. Stephen suffered martyrdom — hence its name.
Aj9 we were passing under the arch, we came across a
dog of a most ferocious aspect and disposition — so
ferocious, that I record it. He was so uncivil to me. that
I was hall" inclined to make him another martyr, without
iking irreverently, by sending a bullel through his
lead.
We took our way along a portion of the ancient Temple
Wall — on the east, overhanging on its high Muff the deep
Valley <.f Jehoshaphat. This wall is now in a line with.
and is included, 1 believe, in the general ramparts, forming
a portion of the fortification. We in a few moments
reached the Golden Gate, which is tin- most remarkable
feature ami object of curiosity in this section of the wall,
mse -imply there is nothing more to see. I was not
much -truck with this Golden Gate, of which I had heard
iuch, and read more, in English, German, and French
le-books. It is evidently much more recenl in date
THE JUDGMENT-STONE.
than the wall into which it seems very plainly to be built.
It stands out several feet from the general line of the for-
tification; it has a double portal, and rather handsome
arches over each door (these closed by cemented stone).
There are several pillars and pilasters — some of the Co-
rinthian and some of the Ionic order — both vitiated.
Porter speaks very positively of the comparative modern
date of the Golden Gate.
Perhaps some sixty yards below the gate, Miss
pointed out to us a rough ragged stone, projecting some
distance beyond its fellows. On this stone the followers
of the Prophet affirm that Mahomet will sit in judgment
over the world at the last day. He is to be the judge,
and that piece of rude granite — his throne. On that
terrible day, the good and the sinful — resurrected of
course — are to collect on the opposite slope of Mount
Olivet, and one by one they shall attempt to cross over
the yawning abyss beneath them on a small wire. The
sinners, when half way, shall fall into this valley—
which by the Arabs is called Hinnom (or Ge-Henna by the
Jews, meaning hell)— and there meet their due reward;
but the righteous and pure in heart shall pass safely across,
and enter the Temple or Paradise. If I might venture a
comment, I dare say there would be considerable ivire-
pulling on that trying day. Doubtless the Mohammedans
borrowed this idea from the descendants of "Father
Abraham," who, as I have mentioned before, flock thither
that they may die in Jerusalem, and be buried beneath
the sod of Olivet ; because they think that it is here at
the awful day of wrath their true Messiah will judge the
-"I \ \ i i iy OF JEHOSU a I'll a t.
"quick and the dead." The similarity of traditions is
manifest.
This wall along which we rode is commonly known as
the llaram Wall, as it forms a portion (cast side) of
the llaram enclosure. How beautiful Olivel looked from
our position as we stopped a moment to gaze on the pictu-
sque mountain before us3 with its venerable olives scat-
tered plenteously on its green brow — olives which per-
haps east a shade here in the time of Christ ; — on ;i close
examination into the cortical structure of these trees, I
have no doubt but that some of them were cotemporary
with .lesns of Nazareth. The Church of the Ascension
showed we-11 from this position, and I anticipate the plea-
sure of going again to that same spot, and enjoying the
glorious panorama in early morning, which. J am told, is
Iht hour to enjoy the scene here and then presented in
all its richness and gorgeousness.
We next descended into the deep vale lying between
us and .Mount < Mivet. This is called the Valley of Jehosh-
aphat; in it there are four tombs of as much, if not of
more, importance and interest than any others in or near
Jerusalem. They are arranged in nearly a right line, and
a view of one includes all. I shall repair thither at an
early day in order to sketch the group.
The Tomb of Absalom, or more properly Pillar of
Absalom, come- first in order as we proceed down the
valley, and that. I shall first notice. At the inferior por-
tion, the torn!) is built of massive solid stones, but the top,
ashioned like an irregular cone, is of masonry
of large Bquare stones. I believe, and appears simply to
Absalom's pillar. 205
be stuck on to the lower portion at a much more recent
date. The diversity of the styles of architecture, and
the difference of material used, might lead us to infer that
the lower part of the structure was original work, and
that the cruciform appendix was an ornamental (?)
adjunct, placed there by a later generation. This was
likewise the opinion of Mr. Ferguson, who was a good
judge in such matters; but Dr. Robinson thinks that the
architecture warrants the statement that the monument
is as old as Herod's day at least. This tomb has by some
been said to be that of Hezekiah, by others, that of
King Jehoshaphat. It cannot be the latter, if my memory
serves me correctly ; for in 1 Kings xxii. 50, we read —
" And Jehoshaphat slept with his fathers, and was buried
with his fathers in the City of David, his father • and
Jehoram, his son, reigned in his stead." The italics are
mine. By the City of David, here, in this place, is
beyond all doubt meant Bethlehem. Neither, I think, can
this be Absalom's Pillar, for " Absalom in his lifetime had
taken and reared up for himself a pillar which is in the
King's dale ; for he said, I have no son to keep my name
in remembrance ; and he called the pillar after his own
name, and it is called unto this day Absalom's place" (2
Sam. xviii. 18). Now all concur in placing the " King's
Dale" far below this spot, and in the neighborhood of
En-Rogel, which I shall notice later; and according to
Scripture, if I mistake not, Absalom was killed in the
wood of Ephraim by Joab on the clay of the defeat of the
Israelites, and " they took Absalom, and cast him into a
great pit in the wood, and laid a very great heap of stones
rOMB OF rill" APOSTLE JAMES.
upon him : and all Israel fled awa\ unto his kent"(same
chapter, 1 7 1 1 1 verse). Bui main Jews, however, think-
ing this the veritable Pillar of Absalom, always casl a
>
stone at it. and utter an anathema as they pass, in token
of their disapproval of the base conduct of David s rebel-
ling son. The -tones at present are piled high against
the side- of the monument, and exist also in large quan-
tities inside — so much so. that exploration is impossible.
The dimensions of the pillar 1 suppose to he. roughly,
aboul forty-five feet high, and about twenty-five feet
front.
'Idie second tomb which we reached was that of the
Apostle .Tames. This is quite a large chamber hewn out
of the rock in the cliff, and consists of several smaller
chambers for the repose of bodies. It is supported by
two columns, ami two half-columns, of an order 1 forgot
to notice particularly. " In this tomb, says tradition, the
Apostle dames Bought refuge during the interval which
elapsed between the crucifixion and resurrection of our
Lord. The tradition is first found in Gregory of Tours,
win-re it is said, that when .lames saw the Saviour dead
upon the cross, he vowed he would neither eat nor drink,
until he should see him rise again. On the third day,
i ur Lord showed himself to the apostle, saying. 'Arise
and eat, for I have now risen from the dead.' The story,
however, does not appear to have been connected with
this Cave, until the time of Maundeville, in the fourteenth
tury." We have then no authority other than this,
for believing this to he the tomb of the apostle. If other
proof exist. I have not been able to lay my hand on it.
f=
TOMB OF ZECHARIAS. 207
However, I was told that this was the tomb of St. James.
Every guide in Jerusalem and every writer on Jerusa-
lem speaks of it as that apostle's tomb, and so I have
recorded it.
The third tomb was that of Zecharias, him who was
stoned, during the reign of King Joash, in the Temple
court. In 2 Chron. xxiv. 20-21, we read: "And the
Spirit of God came upon Zechariah, the son of Jehoiada
the priest, which stood above the people, and said unto
them, Thus saith God, Why transgress ye the command-
ments of the Lord, that ye cannot prosper ? Because ye
have forsaken the Lord, he hath also forsaken you.
And they conspired against him, and struck him with
stones, at the commandment of the king, in the court of
the house of the Lord." This, then, is the tomb of the
victim of Joash, on which we gazed. But God's righteous
vengeance was not idle; it soon afterwards, ail-wisely,
overtook Joash, and that monarch was slain. I know of
no slab which marks Jus last resting-spot. The tomb in
question is rather of simple construction, and is cut from
the solid rock. It has a couple of pillars in front, and
over the inferior part is built an irregular pyramid.
Some authorities say it is the tomb of Isaiah the prophet
— but I know not on what basis. The architecture of
the tomb makes it only about eighteen hundred years old.
There is yet one other tomb of biblical antiquity,
which gives rise to several disputes — to reconcile which,
I cannot, of course, make a single attempt. For I must
humbly confess I did not see any of it at all. Miss ,
I believe, pointed it out, or what remained of it. I refer
208 rOM B ov t ii 1; v i rg I N M A R v.
to the Bo-called tomb of King Jehoshaphat, to which
monarch I have referred, in speaking of the pillar of
\ isalom. The same objection raised then, bears equalh
well here — that there is but one tomb of Jehoshaphat,
and it is in Bethlehem, or the "Citj of David." Portei
says it "is in the north-east angle of the excavated arch
around the pillar of A.bsalom," and thai "the pediment
alone is visible, owing to accumulations of rubbish."
After contemplating, for several moments, these objects
of Bacred interest, of which 1 have endeavored to write
ething, we slowly turned our steeds away, and com-
menced the winding ascent of the Mount of* Olives. We
came very soon to a very ancient-looking, gray-walled
structure, resting in a sunken court to our left. The
facade was quite pretty, consisting of two pointed Gothic
arches, with a square architrave and large fine porfoil.
This purports to be the tomb and the chapel of the
Virgiu Mary, the mother of the Saviour of mankind;
whether or not it is. I cannot say. The Virgin, I know,
has other repute. 1 burying-places. I am told that it is
also said — Joachim and Anna, the parents of Mary, and
of Joseph, her husband, are also interred here! It is a
romantic-looking spot; I hope to visit it, in a day or two,
and enter it — this privilege is only obtained very early
in the mornings, and on festival days.
We lingered here only a short time, and then rode on
toward a small enclosure of heavy masonry. Inside the
enclosure we could Bee a small, squalid, miserable habita-
tion, several rows of flowers, and a half dozen or so mag-
nificent venerable olive trees. This was the famous
GARDEN OF GETHSEMANE. 209
Garden of Gethsemane ! How my heart leaped as I
drew near that sacred spot ! and it seemed as if I was
threading the mystic maze of a dream as I gazed on the
few feet of earth before me, made doubly hallowed by the
bloody sweat and agony of the Saviour. It was here He
prayed that the " bitter cup" might be spared Him, and
it was here that He was betrayed by a disciple's kiss ! It
was with much interest, then, that we drew up as we
reached the garden, and peered inquisitively over the wall,
above which we could just see. We had not time, how-
ever, to enter to-day. We intend devoting a good portion
of our time to this garden. I am told that the Greek
Church, out of jealousy toward the Latins, who keep the
Garden of Gethsemane, have made and enclosed a garden
of their own, and intend, when their trees have grown
sufficiently large, to allow visitors to enter to see the
sacred places there also ! Shame on such a people ! a people
honoring, as they profess to do, the name of Christian !
Shame !
We contented ourselves with one last parting look, and
under the excellent guidance of Miss , we once more
commenced our way up the white zigzag path leading to
the top of Mount Olivet. We passed on very swiftly
toward the summit, several minor accidents happening on
the way. S. bestrode a steed of rather singular make ;.-
added to this he had an improper saddle-girth. These
together made this consequence : an impossibility for his
saddle to remain in situ. Slip off it would, in spite of all
S. could do ; who, to remedy the evil was mounting and
dismounting all the time. At length, however, we
14
210 PL LC 1' OF r II i: A SCE X SION.
reached the top, on which is the reputed place of the
A- 'MM. ui. A small octagonal church is hero creeled, ami
pretends to stand en the actual site from which Jesus
took his flight to heaven. Dr. Barclaj dors not coincide
with this tradition, although ii is the oldest in existence
around Jerusalem. In John wo road that Jesus led his
disciples a- tar a- Bethany and there look leave of them.
or •• was carried up into heaven." This spot — the lop of
Olivet — is very near to Bethany, it is true, hut is u<>K by
any means. ,/.s far as Bethany." There was a, church
hero, years and years ago, said to have been built by
Helena's directions; hut it has long since passed away.
From the top of the present church, or from the summit
of a tower near by, a most complete and magnificent view
of Jerusalem is to be had; the city, lying a hundred or
so feet lower in situation, is comparatively beneath us.
From this elevated position, we can see far away over
the wilderness of Judea. even to the Dead Sea, which
lies motionless, still, and dark, far away, resembling a
glittering mirror of quicksilver, encased in a rocky
setting.
Later in our ride, we saw the place of Ascension
>rding to Dr. Barclay. It is just by Bethany, and
•• up a high mountain." We were shown several caves
in tli^ Mount of Olives, all more or less sacred — though
in what consisted their sacredness, I have idrgotten. It
is useless, I imagine, to burden one's memory with all
the superlative nonsense ai d stuff which are continually
poured into our ears. I shall repair to the summit of
BETHANY. 211
Olivet again, and, if I can, write out the magnificent view
to be obtained there.
We next passed over the mountain towards Bethany,
which ancient town we were all very desirous of seeing.
More than probable, our route was the very same over
which our Saviour so often trod eighteen hundred years
ago ; indeed all authentic writers on Jerusalem and its
environs, notice this road as the same by which Christ
generally wound his way toward the house of Lazarus.
Only a quarter of an hour elapsed before we reached the
village — for we went at a rapid rate, too rapid to enjoy
the scenery so sacred, spread out around us. A few
dilapidated straggling huts burst upon our view, and I
instinctively knew that I gazed on time-honored Bethany,
the home of Lazarus, of Martha, and Mary ! and often, in
these far days of early Christianity, the grateful resting-
place of Jesus Christ. Alas ! the glory of Bethany has
departed — and the howls of the hungry dogs of the
Becldaween tell mournfully of the filth and wretchedness
here collected. What singular emotions crowded my mind
as I drew in my horse, and gazed long at the forty or fifty
decayed mud structures, which nestle over the resting-
place of old Bethany ! This then was the spot made so
sacred in the trying scenes of the Drama of Redemption,
by the presence of the persecuted Son of Man — this the
spot, whence He marched on his triumphant way to
Jerusalem — this the spot, where He raised Lazarus " from
the dead," and where He often passed sweet moments at
the close of day !
Bethany lies over the other side of the Mount of Olives, if
212 BETHANY.
1 may so speak — that is, from Jerusalem — and itssqualid,
huddling hovels, nestle closely together, on the south-
eastern Ledge of the mountain. It is, I imagine, about
two A.inerican miles from Jerusalem, a "little more than
fifteen furlongs," as St. John has it. The Bcenery along
the road h\ which we went to Bethany is exceedingly
\. and our pace was far too rapid to enjoj it. 11
. I shall take a stroll thither by foot, in a few
days, so that 1 may linger a- long as 1 wish, over the
sacred way along which our Saviour often trod.
The Arabic name for Bethany is eVAzir — which means
Lazarus. i think the word Bethany, as we retain and
use it. means " House of Dates." 1 imagine it received
its name from the fruit borne on palm trees, which, 1 am
told, existed here not many years ago.
Whether or not Bethany is larger now than it was
when the humble Nazarene made it a frequent resort,
I cannot say. It must have then possessed more life
than now. for a more wholly-deserted and desolate-
looking spot, I never beheld. Only about a half-dozen
of animated objects, of all species, refreshed our gaze
there to-day — and those objects were presented in the
Bhape of a miserable motley set of hall-clad Arab girls.
hanging about, near a well. Bethany is beautifully
situated, however, and overlooks the dark deep ravine,
which lead- through the Moab Mountains to the deep
depression of the .Ionian Valley. A view in this direction
takes in the whole " Wilderness of Judea." It was from
B many that Mary and Martha went to meet Jesus, who
came from "those distant blue mountains on the further
BETHANY.
21!
side of that deep valley," to beseech Him to come and
raise Lazarus, their deceased brother. It was in this
dilapidated hamlet they chid Him for tarrying so long,
asserting — had He been there, " our brother Lazarus had
not died ;" it was here He raised that same Lazarus, and
exalted himself as God and Benefactor; it was here, in
the house of Simon the Leper, that the " woman having
an alabaster box of very precious ointment, came and
poured it on His head, as he sat at meat." And the house
of Simon the Leper once stood in Bethany, where we
were this day, for I am told its site is pointed out even
now, to the very curious. We did not see it. Here, amid
these decaying and decayed walls, Jesus so frequently
" lodged," and, if I should speak my thinkings on a sacred
subject, it was here that Jesus passed some of the sweetest
moments of His life on earth. It was hence He marched,
as I have said before, His triumphal train, and entered
the City of Jerusalem ; and more than that, there scarcely
can exist a reasonable doubt, but that He proceeded over
the same route by which we ivent to the "House of
Dates." I find in Porter, by the accomplished Mr.
Stanley, a magnificent and masterly imaginative descrip-
tion of the wondrous proceedings of that wonderful day.
I cannot refrain from copying the extract so admirable —
feeling confident that all who may chance to read these
rudely written sheets, will thank me sincerely for so
doing. The scene is described as by an eye-witness.
" Two vast streams of people met that day. The one
poured out from the city (John xii. 12) ; and as they came
through the gardens where clusters of palm trees rose on
214 i; BTH A.NY.
the south-eastern corner of Olivet, thej out down the long
branches, as was their wont at the Feasl of Tabernacles,
and moved upwards toward Bethan} with loud Bhouts of
welcome. From Bethaivj streamed forth the crowds who
had assembled there on the |>iv\ ious night, and v\ ho came
testifying to the great event at the sepulchre of Lazarus.
In going toward Jerusalem, the road soon loses sight oi
bany. It is now a rough, but still broad and well-
defined mountain track, winding over loose rocks and
les, and here and there deeply excavated; a Bteep
declivity below on the left; the sloping shoulder of Olivet
above it on the right; fig trees below and above, growing
out of the rocky soil. Along the road the multitudes
threw down the branches which they cut as they went
along, or spread out a rude matting formed of palm-
branches they had already cut as they came out. The
larger portion — those perhaps who escorted him from
Bethany — unwrapped their loose cloaks from their shoul-
ders, and stretched them along the rough path, to form a
momentary carpet a- lb' approached (Matt. xxi. 8). The
two streams met. Half of the vast mass, turning round,
preceded; the other halt' followed (Mark xi. 9). Gradu-
ally the Ion,-' procession swept round the little valley that
furrows the hid, and over the ridge on its western side,
where first began the descent of the Mount of Olives
toward Jerusalem. At this point is caught the first view
of the Bouth-eastern (western) corner of the city. The
Temple and the more northern portions are hid by the
f <)ii\et oil the right; what is seen is only .Mount
Zion, now. for the most part, a rough field, crowned with
BETHANY.
215
the Mosk of David, and the angle of the western walls,
but then covered with houses to its base, surmounted by
the castle of Herod on the supposed site of the palace of
David, from which that portion of Jerusalem, emphatic-
ally the ' City of David,' derived its name. It was at this
precise point, 'as he drew near, at the descent of the
Mount of Olives' (may it not have been from the sight
thus opening upon them?) that the shout of triumph
burst forth from the multitude, ' Hosanna to the Son of
David ! Blessed is He that cometh in the name of the
Lord' (Matt. xxi. 9). There was a pause as the shout
rang through the long defile ; and as the Pharisees who
stood by in the crowd complained, He pointed to the
stones which, strewn beneath their feet, 'would imme-
diately cry out if those were to hold their peace.' Again
the procession advanced. The road descends a slight
declivity, and the glimpse of the city is again withdrawn
behind the intervening ridge of Olivet. A few moments,
and the path mounts again ; it climbs a rugged ascent, it
reaches a ledge of smooth rock, and in an instant the
whole city bursts into view. As now the dome of the
Mosk-el-Aksa rises like a ghost from the earth before the
traveller stands on the ledge, so then must have risen the
temple tower ; as now the vast enclosure of the Mussul-
man sanctuary, so then must have spread the Temple
courts ; as now the gray town on its broken hills, so then
the magnificent city with its background — long since
vanished away — of gardens and suburbs on the western
plateau behind. Immediately below was the valley of
the Kidron, here seen in its greatest depths as it joins the
TOM B OF LA Z a R l S.
valley of Hinnom, and thus giving lull effect to the greal
iliarity of Jerusalem, Been only on its eastern side —
situation as of a city — rising out of a deep abyss. It
is hardly possible to doubt that this rise mid turn of the
road — this rocky ledge — was the exact point where the
multitude paused again, and 'He, when lie beheld the
citj . wept over it." "
Before we turned our hacks on this ragged, flat-topped
village, we visited the reputed tomb of Lazarus; and saw
just above it the- remnants of a very ancient house, said
to he the one in which the brother lived with his Bisters
Mary and Martha. This seemed more like the shattered
and tottering wall of an old fort or rampart, than anything
The tomb of Lazarus is entered by a low. dark
opening, into a large overhanging cliff. You descend
- iveral steps, and reach a small chamber, in which, tradi-
I -;i\ -. Lazarus once lav dead — from which state, by the
puissant arm of Him ••in whom there was no guile," he
- raised again to life. Whether or not this is the iden-
i, -jiot of the miracle, I cannot affirm; that it was here
near here, I have every reason to believe; for it was
in Bethany — and any point in Bethany, from the nature
<>f circumstances, must he near this place. I am inclined
. seriously that the reputed place is the correct
-pot.
I) iring all of our sight-seeing, however, we were much
ommoded by a whistling, roaring, voice-destroying
wind. I never before witnessed its equal in violence; it
was all our Bteeds could do. sometimes, in skirting the
summit of some of the high hills, to keep their feet, and
EN-ROGEL. 217
more than once, I thought to consult safety by dismount-
ing. But as regards this — if the truth must be told — I
considered our necks in danger from the moment we
sallied out at St. Stephen's Gate, until, far later in the
night, we, a most forlorn party, sallied into the Jaffa
Gate. From Bethany, we started home, and came
around, so to speak, by the Valley of Hinnom or Ge-
Henna — a bad place too, for the latter word means hell!
Our party, however, had a Divine in it, and our company
was good, whatever our whereabouts. We visited en-Rogel,
or Joab's Well ; the Pool of Siloam, and the Fountain of
the Virgin ; of these localities I will here say a few words,
deferring a description to a later portion of my Journal.
En-Rogel, or the Well of Joab, or of Job, as some have
it, is at the junction of the brook Kidron with the Valley
of Hinnom ; it is said to be ancient, and, if genuine, is
indeed " as old as the hills." It formed a landmark in
the boundary lines between the territory of Benjamin and
Judah. We read in Joshua, 15th chapter, 7th verse,
" And the border went up toward Debir from the Valley
of Achor, and so northward, looking toward Gilgal, that
is before the going up to Adummim, which is on the south
side of the river ; and the border passed toward the waters
of Enshemesh ; and the goings out thereof were at En-
Rogel." The well seemed to be quite deep, and moss
grew profusely on the gray stones, which reached even
down to the water. The whole structure is of rude
masonry, covered over with a very modern shed of wood.
It is in a lovely situation, and, in spite of the cold
weather which has of late visited this region, the grass
218 POOL OF SILOAM.
grew green and flourishing around. I am told thai the
well, although from the surface of the ground to the bot-
tom I- one hundred and ten feet, yel in the season of
rains, the wain- swell high and pour even over the rude
rim of stones encircling the mouth. Whence is the sourer
o[ the water 1 cannot imagine, nor can 1 learn. It must
have its rising, however, 1 think, from some of the large
pools in the same valley. The Arabs call this well Bit
F.ipih. which means •• Well of Job."
A shorl distance above En-rogel is the far-famed Pool
of Siloam — the one to which our Saviour sent tin- blind
man. savin-. "Go wash in the Pool of Siloam." The
Arabs call this place, if I mistake not. Silwan; they call
the adjacent village Silwan, I know. It was once con-
tended that this pool was connected with the Fountain of
the Virgin, which is higher up the valley, and this was in
fact proved by Dr. Robinson, the energetic explore]-, to
whom 1 have already referred several times. After most
arduous labor, ami a grand display of indomitable pe.
verance, the doctor actually passed the entire length of
the conduit from the Fountain of the Virgin to the Pool of
Siloam. He describes the passage through the aqueduct
at some [.laces as most difficult, inasmuch a- he not only
compelled to go on " all-fours," but " could only get for-
ward by lying at full length ami dragging ourselves along
upon our elbows.''
Tic- waters of Siloam have, since years "lang syne,"
been uoted as not being regular in their flow, and of
pse the phenomenon was fully explained, after Dr.
inson's indefatigable researches. The entire distance
POOL OF SILOAM. 219
of the channel between the two pools is nearly eighteen
hundred feet. Josephus is the best authority for locating
the Pool of Siloam ; he determines it to be just where we
find the present pool. We should be indeed thankful to
the Jewish historian for so definitely marking a site of
such celebrity in Bible history, and around which cluster
so sweetly the memories of "the waters of Siloah that
flow softly" (Isaiah viii. 6).
The Pool of Siloam " is a rectangular reservoir 53 feet
long, 18 wide, and 19 deep; in part broken away at the
western end ; the masonry is modern ; but along the sides
are six shafts of limestone columns of more ancient date,
projecting slightly from the wall, and probably originally
intended to sustain a roof. At the upper end of the pool
is an arched entrance to a ruinous staircase, by which we
descend to the mouth of the conduit that comes from the
' Fountain of the Virgin.' "
Isaiah's tree, an imaginary sacred curiosity, is said to
be near the Pool of Siloam. It is a tree so called from
the fact, they say{?) that the prophet Isaiah was here
cruelly sawn asunder by the harsh command of Manas-
seh. We did not see the tree, however, nor did we at the
time of our visit hear any reference made to it.
There is yet one more pool which we included in our
ride, and of which I have made mention more than once.
I refer to the Fountain of the Virgin. In this fountain
probably the interrupting flow was first discovered by Dr.
Robinson. He gives an interesting account of the cir-
cumstance. The natives give this solution of what was
once a problem : A dragon of hideous form and dreadful
■--i' POD N r \ I N OF Til i: V [RGl N.
Appearance keeps vigil mar the fountain. When he is
<>u duly, or awake, the water does nol remit or How;
but -i soon as the grim custodian yields to slumber, the
flow commences, and continues until the dragon awakens.
Some think tlic fountain to be identical with the old
Bethesda, at which Christ worked a charitable deed
Johnv.). Some think it Solomon's reservoir, described
by Josephus as "between the fountain of Siloam and
the southern side of the Temple." How the fountain
received its name 1 do not know; I have been able, how-
p, to pick up two tradition^ which may probably afford
substan •<• enough wherewith to create a title. One is thai
the fountain possessed the singular property of betraying
Iterous women; it' women coming to this pool could
Irink freely of its waters, and not immediately exhibit
unpleasant symptoms, then their innocence and chastity
were proved beyond cavil. It seems now that Mary, the
m >ther of Jesus, was suspected of being enceinte out of
wedlock. She gladly submitted to this test, and, as the
litio to tat.', die passed the ordeal without
flinching, and without the appearance of an unpleasant
tell-tale symptom. The other tradition simply says that
the Virgin came to the pool to wash her child's clothes.
In either case we see the aptitude of the name. The
Arabs have a jaw-breaking name for this pool, which I
er Learned thoroughly, and which I have by this time
forgotten /'// toto ; it means, however, the "Pool of the
Mother of Stairs." What the name in this case signifies
I cannot tell.
Saving, in turn, inspected each of these places of
A TRIAL OF SPEED.
221
interest, and learned as much about them as a horseback
preliminary visit would allow, we turned away. We had
nothing in particular now to see, and as the hour of sunset
was very near, we raised our horses to a swift canter,
and away we dashed ! A real breakneck scamper was
that ! And at this point of our day's sightseeing, com-
menced filling our cup of troubles, which, before we
reached home, was indeed running over. But these
troubles were the spice to our adventures, and as every-
thing turned out well enough, why we could laugh at
our vexations, afterwards! But I am anticipating.
Away we dashed — Miss , S., and myself, ahead.
Our gallop soon quickened to a run, and in a few mo-
ments it became an exciting trial of speed between our
three mettlesome chargers. As for Mr. S— tt, intent on
examining holy places, he lingered behind, without
noticing our rapid departure and the direction we took.
We, of course, thought he was in our wake. But — we
had taken the wrong road ! This information was kindly
given us by some cut-throat looking Arabs, lying in the
shade of a wild locust tree in the valley. We were
astounded, for we had imagined that we were fast nearing
the Jaffa Gate. We were going in the opposite direction,
and were clattering on toward Bethlehem, and not toward
the "City of the Great King." It was at this time
very near sunset, when the gates are always closed —
the Jaffa Gate being kept open one single half-hour
longer. There was no alternative, and no time was at
our disposal for consideration. We wheeled around,
instantly, and came dashing back at the same breakneck,
'___ \ RACE FOR JAFFA G \ TE.
flying speed that had carried us thither. On our return,
n the midst of our mad rice we met Mr. S — tt. looking
very uneasy and "skittish;* for he Burely thought he was
and he knew, by reputation, the character of the Arabs
who loafed about the 'pools in the Kidron Valley! lie
wheeled into our flying squadron, and the din of his
horse's hoofs added to the clatter that made the valley
again. On we went — niv noble little steed
tnbled — 1 drew him up, and. with a few words of
luragement, he was soon amid the others again,
striving, it seemed, to reach the flying white charger of
Miss . who heroically led the van. Alas ! poor fellow,
he struggled in vain — the white was superior in length
of limb. I imagined that Miss was much excited
it the terrific gait at which we were speeding along. I
determined to keep close as possible to her — so I encou-
ed my little steed on. and nobly and beautifully did
he run. 1 passed S. and Mr. S — tt easily, and was
rapidly nearing Miss . who was leading directly up
the rough, rugged brow of old Zion. dust then, to make
O * CO '
a had matter worse Mr. S — tt's horse "kicked up," and
• S. — who was <• tmpeting with our reverend friend
for turf-honors — a severe blow on his ankle. I turned
in my saddle to see the consequence of the kick. S. had
dismounted, and Mr. S — tt. also on foot, was assisting
him up the hill ! I imagined he was not seriously hurt,
and suddenly thinking of Miss and of my ungallant
1 took a last look at my two friends struggling
up the hill afoot, and gave free rein to my horse once
more. When 1 reached the Bummitofthe hill. Miss
had disappeared, and then.' was not a single soul in sight !
A TERRIBLE POSITION. 22)
I pushed on, and still no appearance of our fair guide.
I determined, under the circumstances, to await the
coming of my friends. But it seemed that I had to wait
for ever ! I rode, anxious and uneasy, back to the road
up which, as I thought, I last saw them approaching —
but not a living creature greeted my gaze !
I slowly began to realize my position — a terrible one,
truly ! Outside of the walls of Jerusalem — after sun-
set— knew not ten words of decent Arabic, and just then
recollected most vividly every instance of Oriental cruelty
on record, and particularly the recent murder of Miss
Crecy ! ! ! To add to this catalogue, I was nearly 8000
miles from home and relatives and very dear friends in far
away America ! No one can imagine the forlorn terror
which for a moment held possession of my bosom. To
add to my stock of troubles, my steed broke from me — I
was on foot, holding him by the bridle — and walked very
contentedly off! There was now no alternative pre-
sented— but sleep in a cave — and perhaps " sleep my last
sleep," or try and catch my truant steed, and ride some-
where or everywhere. After a little strategy, I coaxed the
faithful animal up to me, and fixed the bridle, saddle, and
riding appurtenances most securely with my handker-
chief : I then sprang upon his back, and in an instant was
off like wind. Just as I was turning an angle of the city
wall, Miss suddenly turned the same corner from an
opposite direction, at a pace equal to my own. I was as
glad to see her as an angel dropped from heaven. She
was an angel to me then indeed, for she succored me in
my distress. The noble and kind-hearted young lady had
ridden on, and had given orders to the keepers that the
'_'_' I w r REACH i 11 i GA I B.
gates should be kept open tor our party. Following her
directions, 1 pushed on, and, much to m\ joy, I soon stood
once more within the shadow of the Jaffa Gate, and inside
the walls iA' Jerusalem! In half an hour S. and Mr.
S — u. under the charge of Miss , came hobbling up,
ami our party was once more united at the Jaffa Gate.
I, was a ride for life, as I shall always contend, and. as ;i
participator. I shall always remember the adventure.
Before going elsewhere, we went by the Mediterranean
Hotel, where Mr. S — tt called on Dr. Gorham, our consu-
lar representative, to whom he had letters of introduction
from friends in Rome. The said Mr. Gorham is from
Boston, and once hold a like position in Rome. We then,
en masse, escorted Miss homo, whore we found the
doctor's family somewhat uneasy about us, on account of
our tardy appearance. We sincerely thanked Miss for
her kindness in conducting us safely once more into the
city; and. wishing all good-night, we left. Hassan was
there waiting for us. and. under his guidance, we stumbled
through the dark streets, and finally reached the Prussian
Hospice.
After tea a very kind and affable Mr. J — b — sn called
on us. and proffered us his assistance in sight-seeing. Ih
has dwelt here for several years, and. as a guide;, is au
foil. I presume.
Heirs Montag and Esslinger went this afternoon to the
Mount of Olives, also to the Church of the Sepulchre.
Meinherr, the " Huzzar," is speaking now of the Qrab-
kirsch* ; and Esslinger is so disgusted with the weather,
that he advises and earnestly urges instant "flight into
Pt."
CHAPTER X.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem.
Sunday, 6th March, 1859.
!
HAVE spent this day in the City of the Lord. The
Lord's day in the City of the Lord! And who
would have thought it ? / did not five months
ago — but stranger things have happened.
The last thing I did last night, before going to sleep, was
to make an engagement with Mr. S — tt to accompany with
him Mr. J — b — sn, who had kindly offered his services, to
the Church of the Sepulchre, in order to witness Oriental
worship in all its essence and purity. (?) But — and an
unlucky but — we slept so late, or rather we slept so hard,
that, when we awoke, the hour of the engagement had
passed. But the rain came down in such torrents, that
we could not have gone any way. Nevertheless I was
very sorry, for I wanted to see the sights that are enacted,
perhaps blasphemously, within the walls of the sacred
church. " Hope deferred maketh the heart sick ;" never-
theless, I live in hope — though it is sadly " deferred" —
until next Sunday.
We sat down to a tolerable breakfast. I must say,
however, that my meals here give me more trouble and
vexation than anything else. Not that I am a glutton —
15 (225)
226 CHURCH OF nii: SEPULCHRE.
l,N Q0 means — but 1 am in bad health, and need nourish-
ment, in the shape of rich and palatable food ; but it will
In- a long time, I fear, before 1 can class goat meat in that
category! But, (again) — we bave tolerable coffee — bread
that will do — good wine — a few eggs occasionally — and
after all, 1 guess 1 am content.
We concluded, while sitting at the breakfast table, to
take a walk, any way, to the Church of the Sepulchre;
BO we sent around and requested Mr. J — 1) — sn, to
accompanj us thither. He verj good-naturedly assented,
and soon called for US. Off we started. Esslinger and
■ i John Montag in company this time, and after a walk
of ten minutes we entered the church — I with the most
singular emotions. Would that 1 could describe what I
simply felt, as I am sure that it would constitute the
most interesting page of my Journal. It is impossible to
llel now, as I then felt, and to experience the same
emotions in all their power, which then swept like light-
ning through my frame. Suffice it to say then, that most
singular indeed, were the actions of my mind, as I stood
under the dome of the Church of the Sepulchre, and
heard the sound of my own footfall, echoing away amid
the sanctity of holy places. These holy places of course
we saw. and were duly told by Mr. .1— b— sn, every
tradition concerning each particular object, which gratified
our curiosity. We saw the Sepulchre itself, and I stood
under the myriad blaze of perfumed oil burnt in golden
scona and most reverentially, I knelt down and kissed
the -tone, reputed to be the one in which the Saviour of
Mankind once reposed in death. I defy the most
CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE. 227
sneering atheist or infidel, to enter this place without the
holiest emotions intruding themselves on his mind. It
may not be the exact spot where the dead Christ once lay,
and I am far from believing it — yet four-fifths of the
Oriental Christian population agree in placing it here;
and, what weighs more in my estimation, with the place
is for ever connected the name of Jesus Christ — Immanuel
— Him of Nazareth — The Great I Am — Our Lord —
Saviour and Redeemer ! As I walked into the small and
brilliantly lighted chamber, in which is the Sarcophagus,
I experienced feelings which I cannot write down on
paper, because I cannot even imagine them now — they
were so unusual, so peculiar, so unearthly. Never shall
I forget the deep religious glow which overspread Mein-
herrs face, as he solemnly knelt on the cold stone floor,
by the coffin, and lifting his eyes aloft, seemed uttering a
heartfelt prayer to the One Supreme.
On entering this place, the natives, generally, not only
uncover the head, but also slip off the boots or sandals —
as it is worse than pollution to stand in such a holy
place, in the same shoes in which you have walked the
streets. We were allowed, however, to go in with our
boots on, though we showed a perfect willingness to
conform to the custom of the place. Meinherr had gone
so far as to take off one of his boots, before we could
make him understand that it was not necessary.
I was much surprised at the devotion and almost agony
of grief which every pilgrim who came in, betrayed.
Tears flowed from their eyes, like rain from heaven, and
bedewed the stones on which we stood. Their sobs,
C II 0 Kin OF 1 II i: S I PI l.t II i: I .
wrung, it seemed, from souls full of anguish, echoed
through the narrow vaulted chamber. I was moved bv
their emotions, and I fancied the} gazed on my trickling
tears, with a tender and more subdued expression.
Porter says: — •• Here I have often lingered, solemnized,
almosl awe-stricken, Looking at pilgrim after pilgrim in
endless succession, crawling in on bended knees, bowing
lips and forehead and cheeks to the cold marble, and
bathing it with tears, and sobbing until the very heart
seemed breaking — then dragging himself away, still in
the attitude of devotion, until the threshold is again
crossed."
And. in speaking of the tomb, he says: — "The vault
i> said to be hewn in the living roek ; but not a vestige
of it is now seen : the floor, tombs, wall, are all marble;
while the upper part is so blackened by the smoke of
lamps and incense, that it is impossible to see what it is
composed of. The rock may be there; but if so,
"Oh! if tin' lichen were but free to twine
O'er the dark entrance of that rock-hewn cell,
Say, should we miss the gold-encrustcd shrine,
Or incense fumes' intoxicating spell ?
W iald not the whispering breeze, as evening fell,
Make deeper music in the palm trees' shade
Than choral prayer or chanted ritual's swell?
Can the [iimuiI shafts of Ib-lima's enlnnnadu
Match thy time-honored stones, Gethsemane's holy glade?"
The vault is covered over with a small, misshapen
structure, perhaps twenty feet high and as many long.
Tie- dome of the church was open, and to keep the rain
from falling on the sepulchre beneath, a large cloth was
CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE. 229
stretched, which spread entirely across the arch, and
protected the sacred structure below it, by shedding the
water in a different direction. The vault itself is a
narrow room, about eight feet long, and six or seven feet
hi«-h. On the right hand as we enter, is the identical
coffin — it is asserted by some — in which rested Jesus. I
examined it very closely, and saw very distinctly inside,
the impression of edged instruments, as plain and
apparently as fresh, as if it was hewn yesterday. The vault
is not hewn from solid stone — the sarcophagus is. The
edge of the latter is perfectly smooth, and is worn
considerably away, by the constant friction from the
hands of pilgrims.
In all of the four Evangelists we find reference made to
the tomb or " sepulchre" of the Saviour. In only one of
the Gospels, do we find " tomb" used— in the other three,
" sepulchre" is the word employed. This sepulchre seems
to have been considered by one of the Evangelists as
belonging to Joseph of Arimathea, and by him Jesus was
laid in the tomb. By reference to Matthew, we read,
" And when Joseph had taken the body, he wrapped it
in a clean linen cloth, and laid it in his own new tomb,
which he had hewn out in the rock ; and he rolled a great
stone to the door of the sepulchre and departed" (xxvii.
59, 60). In Mark we read, chapter xv. verse 46, after
referring to the fact, that "Joseph of Arimathea, an
honorable counsellor," had craved the body of Jesus,
" And he brought fine linen, and took him down, and
wrapped him in linen, and laid him in a sepulchre which
icas hewn out of a rock, and rolled a stone unto the door
2 'ii en i urn OF in E si:rr LCH R E.
of the sepulchre." The tomb is ool here spoken of as
belonging to Joseph. In St. Luke we read concerning this
same man of Arimatiica. " And he took it down (( Ihrist'a
body) and wrapped it in Linen, and laid it in a sepulchre
thai was hewn in stone, wherein never man before was
buried" (xxiii. ;>-">b In the Gospel according to St. John
it seems thai Nicodemus, who brought the "myrrh and
aloes," assisted Joseph in laying away the body. "Then
took the} tin1 body of Jesus, and wound it in linen clothes.
with the spices, as the manner of the Jews is to bury.
Now in the plan1 whcri' he was crucified, there was a
garden; and in the garden a new sepulchre, wherein was
m Vi r man laid" There is no good reason as yet extant,
why this vault which we saw to-day, should be identified
with the one of which the Evangelists wrote. Of that
and of other vexed questions in regard to the locality of
the sepulchre. I shall speak again. I am satisfied
however, to keep this as the site, for the present, where this
sacred memory should be cherished, content with the
undeniable fact — that whatever disputes exist, this church
is 'in i-'n w of the actual spot.
After leaving the sacred tomb, we turned in a different
direction, and commenced the routine of the many objects
of religious remembrance — sights which till even the most
curious with a surplus of the marvellous, and which,
oevertheiess, awake in the bosoms of all, something more
than a momentary interest. Directly in front of the
large entrance — the only entrance, by the bye — as we came
into the mighty and solemn shadow of the overhanging
tte — is a plain slab of dark gray marble. This marble,
CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE. 231
it is said, covers the actual stone of unction — the stone on
which the body of Jesus was anointed by Nicodemus
and Joseph of Arimathea ! The marble is superadded
as a protection to the more precious stone beneath. The
latter, before it was supplied with its present covering,
was worn away considerably by friction from the Palmers'
hands. We noticed several of these enter ; they imme-
diately rushed straight toward the stone, and, bending
over it, pressed their foreheads on the cold marble, and
covered it with reverential tears. It was an affecting
sight ! There was another stone at Constantinople, or it
is there at present, which purports to be the veritable
stone of unction. It is of this religious wonder, like of
all others of a similar nature. For instance, the Arme-
nian friars in this place, pretend to have the "mighty
stone" which was rolled before the mouth of the sepulchre
— yet there are one or two other sects who make the
same assertion. The truest portion of the true cross, is
said to be in the Church of the Sepulchre — yet we were
shown the same thing in St. Peter's, at Rome — while, if
my memory serves me at all faithfully, our own American,
inimitable Mr. Barnum, had, likewise, a piece of wood,
which was shown as a piece of the cross. So, of this
stone of unction. On account of this ubiquity of holy
objects and curiosities, the whole church and its wonders
necessarily appear as a sham, and the high religious awe
with which we should view these wonders, subsides into
a stoical, indifferent credulity, which plainly expresses
our opinion of everything shown us, as humbug.
Turning from the Stone of Unction, we were next
CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE.
shown a Bhort circular granite pillar, set in the pavement
of the church. We were told thai it marks the spot
where Btood Mary when they were anointing the body
Of JeSUS. Hew these sites can In- BO Well remembered, is
ond m\ comprehension. Bui we must he content to
receive all these things as real, Bimply for associations'
sake. Another object — this of geographical wonder — our
fait guide pointed out to us; it was nothing more nor
Less than a point marking the centn of the earth! "Be-
neath the centre of the Lantern (in the Greek Chapel) is
i circle of marble pavement on which stands a short
marble column, said by a tradition as old as the 8th cen-
tury to mark the centre of tin earth. It has even attained
a higher nominal rank, lor Saewulf assures us that "our
Lord Himself signified with His own hand that this spot
is the middle of the world, according to the words of the
Psalmist, ' For God is my King of old, making salvation in
the midst of the earth. '(!) Fabri tells an amusing story
of a companion of his who, perhaps being a little skep-
tical, determined to prove the point ; and accordingly paid
a large sum for permission to ascend the cupola, and thus
rw whether or no the sun gave him a shadow at
:i i! A -till later tradition affirms that it was from
this distinguished spot the clay was taken out of which
Adam was modelled!" With all of these sayings concern-
ing this pillar, fresh on our mind, however absurd the
traditions, yet we Lingered with pleasure for several
moments over the little pillar, and as we left in search of
something else equally curious, I heaved a sigh of regret
that we could not Longer delay .it tht centre of the world.
CHAPEL OF THE APPARITION.
Sure I am, as I walked oft', I felt the power of centripetal
force.
In due time we visited the Chapel of the Apparition,
so called because, by tradition, the Lord here appeared to
Mary after the Resurrection. That may be, or it may
not be — and probabilities point strongly to the latter;
but of one thing interesting in this connection we are
certain — that in this small chamber has ever been per-
formed the ceremony of dubbing those worthy of the
honor — Knights of St. John of Jerusalem — and this cere-
mony is performed here to this day. I copy the words of
an eminent writer on the subject, " Kneeling before the
superior of the Latin Convent, he (the candidate) answers
the various questions proposed, joins in the prayer of con-
secration, and is girt with the sword and spurs of the
heroic Godfrey; that trenchant blade wielded by the
Christian hero in many a.well-fought field, and with which
he is said to have cloven to the middle a Saracen of
dsantic stature — relics that cannot be handled even now
without some glow of feeling." This then, because based
on a sure foundation, is, I think, the most interesting
association connected with the apartment.
There are other traditions afloat concerning it, however,
and other noticeable points, which it may be well simply
to mention. The particular spot where Jesus stood when
he appeared unto his mother, is marked by a stone. It
was in the sacred precincts of the small chapel, that He-
lena, the mother of the Christian Emperor Constantine,
placed the three crosses, sad mementoes of that terrible
day, when " there was a darkness over all the earth until
23 I i ii \ PEL OF i 11 r. a it \ 1; i no \
tlu1 ninth hour; ami the sun was darkened, and the vail
of the temple was rent in the midst." In a niche in the
room also exists a broken shaft of porphyry, styled the
column of flagellation, from the Pact that to it Christ was
bound, when he was Bcourged by command of Pilate. We
did not see the exact stone, or the actual object itself— for
it i- covered over, a small hole letting through the cover-
ing to the stone beneath. We thrusl a cane through this
aperture, ami had the satisfaction of thus i<>u<-j,ii,ij tj,< stom .'
The pilgrims, in thrusting the cane in. return it and cover
it with reverential kisses. Singular taste! As regards
this pillar. I am very confident I saw one professing to be
the same in Rome — at which church, I have forgotten —
at St. John de Lateran, I think. Porter says it is at the
Church of St. Praxede. In a house where this chapel
now stands, it is said that the Virgin Mary took refuge
after the crucifixion; hence it is sometimes called the
( lhapel of the Virgin. I came near forgetting another
tradition relative to this chapel. It is affirmed by the
Latins, that a piece of the true cross was once concealed in
one of the niches of the apartment, and here remained
fur many years; hut that it was finally stolen in the dead
of night by the Armenians. This these latter deny most
strenuously, and insist that they came by the true cross
rightfully. I hear it stated, by some who profess to know,
that the Armenians were in truth innocent of the theft;
but have latU rly <i<t<<l mi the suggestion — have mode them-
selves a cross, or a fragment and now show it as the
nine — though by such action, they institute a negative
proof of their Light-fingered propensities. This piece of
CHAPEL OF HELENA. 235
the cross, as I have mentioned before, is duplicated at
Jtome in St. Peter's. To what an extent will religious
prejudice lead many ! Comment is unnecessary.
We were shown the flight of steps, at the end of the
church farthest from the sepulchre, which leads down to
what is called the Chapel of Helena. This receives its
title from the mother of Constantine, as it is said it was
here that she found the three crosses. The most interest-
ing feature of the place, I take it, is an altar here erected
to the penitent thief who said to Jesus, " Lord, remember
me when thou comest into thy kingdom." The name of
the thief, Porter gives as St. Dimas. How he learned it,
I know not. Another curiosity here shown is the chair
in which, we were told, " Helena sat when overseeing the
search for the crosses." We did not enter this chapel ; we
contented ourselves with a look down the cold, damp
passage, in which, at a short distance, we could distinctly
see the entrance to the chapel.
In a different though not very distant part of the
church, is a vault eighteen feet square, which by some has
been most properly called the Hall of the Invention of the
Cross — a suggestive and appropriate title. Some guides
and guide-books assert, according to tradition, that all
three crosses, and even the nails themselves used in the
crucifixion, and the crown of thorns, were here found
beneath the sod. So it is, however, they even dispute
the veracity of their respective traditions, and their
respective legendary localities. I was told by some one
that in the Chapel of Helena the crosses were found. The
Latins deny this, and say they were discovered in the
CROW \ OF Tim K N S.
ll;ill oi' the Invention of the Cross. The reason for this
disparity of opinion, on their part, ma} be that the Ion nor
Chapel (of Helena) is Armenian property, while the latter
owns the Latin supremacy. l>e thai as it may, the actu-
ality of the site claimed by either of the rival sects is
valueless with thinking persons.
We were shown a niche in the Large aisle of the church,
wherein it i- -aid formerly rested the veritable "super-
scription" which was written over Him — ••The King of
the .lews!'" It is said that the "scroll" is in Rome new.
though I heard nothing of it when there; and I am
generally good at ferreting out objects of wonder and
curiosity. Not far from this spot we were shown, con-
cealed, or rather protected behind, a glass case, the veri-
table "crown of thorns" With what singular feelings I
gazed on that base work of man's hand, and with what
i-t and loathing I contemplated for a moment the
workings of that lewd, superstitious religion which would
lead its ignorant and benighted followers to believe in
-mil wild and unreasonable traditions. The "crown"
looks to me old enough, and covered over with much dust
and many a cobweb of time; yet there are certain marks
about it which cause me to think its date not only not co-
eval with the time of the Saviour, but that it is not more
ancient than some of the "oldest inhabitants" of the fallen
city. This tradition, however, is not more absurd than
that related us by our guide when showing us a long
slender rod of olive wood considerably worn by constant
usage. " They Bay," he said " it is the rod with which one
of the soldiers of Pilate -mote the Saviour!" Yet the pious
THE STOCKS. 207
pilgrim kisses this cane most reverentially. It is a doubt-
ful reverence. Certainly the Lord is not glorified by the
observance. Why not snap the accursed stick ! This is
not irreverentially written. I could scarcely refrain from
smiling when our good " huzzar," John Montag, big in his
faith, pressed forward, and glued his moustached lip to
the well-mouthed rod.
At the farther end of a passage running parallel to the
Greek Chapel — down a step or so — there is a low, vault-
like chamber about seventeen feet square. This cold,
damp-looking place, tradition tells us, was the prison cell
of Him of Nazareth. We were also shown, near this
place, the stocks in which Christ was placed. These are
two large holes cut into the pavement, and — were made by
the Crusaders a thousand years after Christ had left sinful
earth !
In this region of the church I think the tombs of gal-
lant Godfrey and of King Baldwin, his brother, are placed.
If I recollect aright, we saw them beyond the Latin
Chapel, in a vault several feet below the pavement of the
church. I will repair thither to-morrow and satisfy
myself. In my deferred explorations, I shall seek — it is
here, I am confidently told — the Tomb of Melckizedek.
Under the roof of the Church of the Sepulchre, is
grouped every Oriental religion, with perhaps a single
exception. Here we find the Latin, the Greek, the
Armenian, the Coptic, &c, &c, all represented. I must
say I was more pleased with the Armenians, than with
the representatives of the other sects. They seemed to
me, notwithstanding their reputed thievish propensities,
GOLGOTHA.
a liberal and high-minded cider. They were generally
Iran — quite meagre in flesh — and presented a strong
contrast to the oleaginous big-paunched Roman Catholic,
who waddled with difficulty to tin- altar in his chapel.
'Phi' so-called Chapel of Mocking is situated on what is
termed Golgotha, the entire extent of which, it is pro-
abraced under the roof of the Church of the
3 mlchre. We reached this Golgotha, by ascending an
abrupt, hnt short flight of stairs at the farther end (from
the sepulchre) of the structure. It is said in this chapel,
or on its site, they reviled Him, smote Him, and spat
upon Him. We were even shown the stone on which He
-at. when they mockingly crowned and heralded Him,
i- the King of the Jews. In regard to Golgotha — what
the word means — our signification of it — and the Golgotha
on which Christ was crucified, &c, &C, I shall have
occasion again to mention, and that occasion, I hope, will
be more fitting than the present. Up this stairs, or on
Golgotha, we were shown several objects of religious
wonder — among them, the holes in the rock in which the
crosses reposed, and the rent in the rock made when the
sky was darkened, on that terrible day, and when the
•• vail of the temple was'' riven asunder. I had the satis-
tion of placing my hand into these orifices, which can
only be reached by baring the arm. and thrusting it
through an aperture in the marble, which protects the
rock, or Golgotha itself, beneath. 1 could not help
smiling in the face of the friar, who watched me very
closely, and scanned my features to see what effect the
incredible Mid]', which he was telling us in a whisper,
GREEK AND LATIN CHAPELS. 239
would have upon us. The Latin Chapel is here situated ;
it pretends to stand on the exact spot where Christ was
crucified — yet it is not based on the stone itself, but is
an isolated chamber, and stands upon a crypt. I have
never seen a satisfactory explanation of this incongruity.
The Greek is by far the richest, most gaudy, and at the
same time most substantial chapel beneath the great roof.
In it is the seat of the Patriarch of Jerusalem, and it is
in it also, that we find the stone which marks the centre
of the Avorld — to which sufficient reference has already
been made. There is nothing worthy of note in the Latin
Chapel. Some of the arches in the Greek Chapel, are
very beautiful, and being memorials of times of the
Crusaders, they will ever be regarded with much interest
and admiration.
The clang of closing doors warned us to depart, just as
we had finished our hasty survey of wonderful things
beneath this remarkable roof. Beneath no other dome in
the world is there collected such material for the curious
and religiously-inclined, as we find reposing here under the
broad shadow of the Church of the Sepulchre. Such, as
I have given above in rough detail, were the objects of
awe, and monuments of holy wonder which were shown
us. " Such is the Church of the Sepulchre, with its
eventful history, its thrilling associations, and its absurd
traditions, all thrown together in hopeless confusion. It
seems to be the common centre of devotion, superstition,
and imposture. It is the centre, too, of all
. ' That romance
Of many-colored life which fortune pours
2 1U EREC i'ii>N OP Til k OB G RCH.
Round tin- Crusaders, till on distant Bhorea
Their labors end: or they return to lit-.
'1'lif vow performed, in oross-legged effigy
Devoutly Btretohed upou their ohanoel H 's.' "
The Church of the Sepulchre lias experienced a chequer-
ed existence. It was first buill in order tocover holy places
which, pears after Christ had atoned for our sins with his
blood, wore discovered, as marking the scenes of his life
and passion. Some doubt has arisen as to whether Con-
Btantine or Helena, his mother, hegan the erection of this
building. Different authorities are arrayed on both sides.
I believe it is generally conceded that, in the year of the
Lord ">2i>, Constantino hegan the church. That edifice
presented an appearance very different from the one which
now occupies the same site. A conjectural plan of the
building, as it then stood, can be seen in " Williams Holy
City." There is no doubt but that the Crusaders re-
modelled the whole building, and gave it more of its pre-
sent appearance than any other people; but even their
work has been in a great measure destroyed.
The church, I believe, was first laid in ruins by the
Persians, Anno Domini 014. For some time it remained
buried in its own wreck ; but a rising generation rescued
it from neglect and obloquy, and restored it to its former
grandeur, adding also many portions useful and orna-
mental. In the year L010, the church was once more
destroyed by the orders of the fanatic Hakim; but in the
yeai I L03 the Crusaders came to the land of the Infidel,
and under their rule the church was, as it were, built
anew, and was much enlarged. It seems that about the
DESTROYED BY FIRE. 241
times of the Crusades, an English monk, by name Saewulf,
followed the knights to the Holy City, and by dint of in-
defatigable searching found and determined the exact site
of many holy places — to his own satisfaction. These holy
places include the prison in which our Lord was incar-
cerated; the column to which he was bound when
scourged ; the place where he was stripped by the sol-
diers ; the spot where the purple robe was put on him ;
the place where the soldiers cast lots for his raiment ; the
rent in the rock made by the earthquake ; the place where
Adam was raised from the dead;(?) the place where the
Lord's body was wrapped in the linen clothes ; the spot
where the Lord indicated with his own hand the centre
of the world ; the place where He appeared to Mary
Magdalene, and the place where the Virgin stood during
the Crucifixion !"
The church flourished under the supervision of the
Knights of St. John ; and beneath its roof, in that time,
some of the most interesting ceremonies of any sect or
people were performed. Here many a sunny ray has
gleamed through the heavy stained glass, and lit up a
glorious pageantry moving in solemn warrior-procession
along the aisles of that sombre old church. What tales
could these heavy walls relate even of Templar times !
One could spend a twelvemonth with profit and pleasure
simply communing with the shadowy heroes of the dead
past — under the mighty shadow of the Grabkirsche.
The church remained as the Christian Knights had 'left
it, until the year 1808, when it and all of its chapels and
holy places suffered severely from fire. There are many
16
•J J-J Til 1 «ll l RCH REB I I I.T.
living now in the Bast, who well remember the awful
conflagration, and the accompanying Bcenes of terror, of
the nightof the L2th of October L808. Such was the
extent of the injury, thai the roof fell in, and came near
crushing the frail protection over the sepulchre itself.
Singular it was to note as Porter Bays, how "both Latin
and Greek describe, with much exultation, the ravages
of the fire in the holy places of their opponents, contrast-
ing this with the miraculous manner in which their own
were left unscathed." But once again, the different
religious elements in the church furnished a courage
sufficient to recommence its erection even yet once mote ;
and after much wrangling and much dispute, among the
different creeds and sects engaged in the work, the
-tincture was finally completed in the year 1810. It was
then consecrated; the architect, a Greek native of Mity-
lene. was publicly blest, — and such the church remains to
this day, without a single alteration or addition.
I was informed here of a rather novel explanation or
account, rather, of the origin of the late Crimean war, in
which England, France, and Russia appeared as chief
combatant- in the grand field of battle. It was this: —
The dome of the church directly over the sepulchre gave
way, and in a short time, the result was a large opening
through which the rains and dews from heaven, and the
dust from the streets of Jerusalem, came in without
restraint. This state of affairs was deplorable, and must
be altered. But — who should be those FAVORED with the
holy work? Thai was the question, a sad one indeed, as
te sequel well proved. The Greek Church being some-
THE HOLY FIRE.
what predominant, assumed to itself the particular duty
of seeing to the reparation of the defect in the wall.
This was more than the Latins could tamely bear, and
they, in defiance to the Greek Church, immediately
arrogated to themselves the duty of being prime movers
in this divine task, as they termed it. Now it so happened
that the Greek Church, then, as now, was represented
politically by Russia — and the Latins by France. These
respective representatives busied themselves with the
matter, until finally it assumed a political aspect entirely.
Next we heard of the entanglement of Turkey, and then
speedily followed the unjust levies, and then, war ! This
origin is far-fetched, but I k- tell the tale as it was told
to me."
One of the most remarkable ceremonies that ever takes
place under the roof of this church, is the annual giving
to the people on Easter Sunday, the Holy Fire. I will
simply say a few words here, to fill up this day's Journal,
concerning this phenomenon, if I may so call it, reserving
to a later date a more detailed description. It is pre-
tended that this holy fire descends from heaven, trans-
forms water into oil, lights all the lamps of the church,
and gives to him who is so fortunate as to light his candle
by it, a hope, or almost certainty, of the golden crown in
the Great Hereafter. A shallower and baser fraud, and
more complete imposture, was never practised on any
people. Suffice it here to remark, that though the flame
is heavenly, yet it is not more heavenly than that of any
other Lucifer.
After leaving the sacred edifice under the guidance of
•J I i A. GOOD DINNER.
Mr Theil, our Landlord, we Btrolled through the Bazaars.
Sunday here ia the greal selling day of the week; and
"sellers" and "lenders of money" congregate around the
Temple Wall, and in the Btreets, as they did in the time
of the Saviour. A.fter sauntering slowly through the
Bazaars, we returned home and partook of a dinner
which, in duty bound, 1 must Bay, was the best 1 have
calm since my arrival in the walls of Jerusalem. Mr.
Theil, good soul ! had made an especial trip to Bethlehem,
and purchased a nice pig, he assured me, for my benefit.
1 am. indeed, under many obligations to him. In the
afternoon Mr. S — tt went to hear Dr. Gobat preach. He
was much pleased. I intended going with Esslinger and
Montag to German services, hut I concluded to remain
with S.. whose leg, from yesterday's adventure — the horse-
ki,.jv — confined him to his room.
We passed the afternoon and evening very pleasantly
in meditating on and conversing about the sacred sites
amid which we are just now sojourners. We were
visited after tea by a young East-Indian named Ibrahim
Mordecai. lie came to us recommended as dragoman, by
Dr. Gorham, Tinted States Consul in this place. lie is
a handsome fellow, and intelligent withal. I imagine we
will employ him.
Mr. S — tt went out some time since for the purpose of
visiting Dr. Barclay; he has not yel returned, and I am
afraid h«- is lost. It is now after 9 o'clock.
Our plans for to-morrow are unsettled. We shall have
a photographic view of our part}', taken in the Garden of
Gethsemane, or shall make an excursion to " Bethlehem
of Judea."
CHAPTER XI.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem.
Monday, March 7th, 1859.
^"^^HIS morning we arose after a night of the most
refreshing slumber, each man doubly invigorated
and filled with recruited desires to see the many
noted places crowded together within the walls of
El-Kuds.
Having finished my breakfast, for which Bethlehem be
praised ! — for my pig again made his appearance — Ibra-
him, the East Indian, to whom I have before referred,
entered the apartment and made us a genuine Oriental
bow. After much wrangling, we made an agreement with
him to conduct us to Jordan and the Dead Sea — he acting
as our dragoman. The arrangement was, that, upon each
one of us paying him seventy piastres (or about $2.80), he
would take it upon himself to guide us safely to Jordan —
Dead Sea — would allow us to sleep securely amid the
ruins at Jericho, and would land us again safely in Jerusa-
lem after all this had been accomplished — he, the said
Ibrahim, to be our dragoman, protector, landlord, gargon,
and cook. In view of the unfortunate state of the
weather, we made this condition, that the agreement
should be fulfilled on the first fair clay. Having thus
(245)
POO l. OF li I'./ i: K I A li.
settled the excursion among ourselves, Mr. S — tt ami
myself, accompanied l>\ Ibrahim, repaired to tin- office of
our roii-ul. ami there confirmed our bargain in his pre-
sence. This part «»t' our procedure is an all-necessarj
item, else nol onh our money would not lie Bafe, 1 >u t our
lives would be jeopardized in an excursion of this extent,
leading as it does through the worst districts contiguous to
Jerusalem. In agreeing with a dragoman to accompany
as on this trip, it is the business of said dragoman always
to acl un.hu- the authority of the pacha. The American
Consul (in our case), who witnesses the agreement, holds
the pacha responsible for our safe-keeping ; and the pacha
looks to the sheikhs of the tribes through which we have
to pass, with whom he lias a standing stipulated treat)- as
respects this crossing of their territory. *Sb safe an- we
under these arrangements, that, 1 understand, were we to
lose so much (or so little, I mighl say) as a pin, we could
recover damages to the fullest extent! Our consul — he
must excuse me tor recording it — treated us t<>Ur<i]>l>j
politely, omitting, if 1 mistake not. to ask us to take a
. or to ''ill on him ; hut. to make up for this little over-
sight, he gave us a view of the ancient pool of Bezekiah
li believe) from a hack window of his house. This "over*
tit" was better in keeping than the other. Whether or
not this is really the " pool" made by King Bezekiah I
cannot Bay; it corresponds with said pool of antiquity
very well. In ^ Kin-- xx. 20, and "J Chron. xxxii. 30,
we learn thai Bezekiah brought thisconduil straight down
toil,, west side of the city. Doctor Robinson says — "To
i j)().,l li,, presenl reservoir entirely corresponds;
CHEAPNESS OF GOLD. 247
and it is also fed in a similar manner." So we were more
than repaid for all rebuffs by the sight of this ancient pool.
In looking over the register at the consulate, I saw
several names which are quite familiar to me; among
others, that of Mr. W. B. Astor, of New York city, U. S.,
whose acquaintance I enjoyed not very long since in Flo-
rence, at the Hotel de Yorck.
From our consul's we crossed over the open space by
the Tower of Hippicus, and called on our most important
man — our banker. My letter-of-credit from John Monroe
& Co., Rue de la Paix, Paris, was duly presented, and
immediately honored by Mr. Bergheim. I was surprised
at the cheapness of gold ; I paid no premium at all on
napoleons ; yet in Rome, many hundred miles nearer the
French capital, I paid a heavy per centage. I learn that
the reason of this is that the authorities wish, and have
given orders to bankers, to get rid of foreign money as
speedily as possible, in order to give more value to domes-
tic currency. This is a shallow reason, I think, at best ;
and I am sure the genuine cause of this fortunate effect
(to us) is to be found in the laws of exchange, which, so
far as regards this region, are but little known to me.
, Meinherr Bergheim is a pleasant fellow, so to speak ; he
is a genuine — talking, smooth-tongued, sharp-eyed — Ger-
man-Jew ; and I am convinced, from the humbleness of
his attire and speech, that he is — enormously wealthy.
As a general rule, in regard to Jews (there are exceptions,
and particularly at Jaffa), these two diagnostic symptoms
constitute a sufficient basis on which to pronounce our
prognosis of wealth or poverty.
DE NISS 1' I! r. I'll OTOG B A P II E R.
From Bergheim's, Mr. S — (t and myself strolled off in
search of Denies the photographer, recommended us by
Dr. Barclay. He is the only one in Jerusalem;, and [say
mimended, because Dr. Barclay, learning our desires in
rd i*i having views taken, &c, unasked, gave Mr.
Deniss a good name — a fortune possessed by very few,
according to my observations, by "Jew or Gentile," in
this country. After numerous adventures, we at length
found the house of which we were in search ; bul our
friend the photographer was not in. His wife was kind
enough to show us specimens of her husband's art — and.
really, I must say they were superb. 1 have seen photo-
graphy in New York. London. Paris, Rome, &c, yet 1
have never seen any to excel thai of Deniss.
It seems a little singular that Deniss — in plain par-
can afford to live here by the fruits of his profes-
sion. I understand the natives never avail themselves
of his craft; so he must live by selling abroad his views
of Holy Land scenery, and by the encouragement he
receives from visiting Hadjis like ourselves. He is a
Russian; converses well in several languages; is a very
handsome, easy, and aceoniplished fellow, and is a Pro-
mt. On returning home, Mr. S — tt called by Dr.
Barclay's, and I ventured to find the way alone to our
rs at the Hospice. I was repaid for my presumption
by being losi for an hour or two. These bazaars are
almost interminable, and it puts one "to his wits' end"
to keep in his mind the points of the compass. In this
connection I would state what I came near forgetting,
that S — tt. in coming home last night from Dr. Barclay's,
CHURCH OF ST. JAMES. 249
lost his way among the numerous winding paths of the
old city, and came near sleeping in the pacha's seraglio,
or guard-house. However, he managed to find his way
back to Dr. Barclay's, whence he was conducted to the
Hospice. He gave us a most vivid and yet a most ludi-
crous description of his feelings as he wandered back and
forth through the deserted bazaars, fearing every moment
that his flickering lantern would "go out," and leave him
in the lurch.
After dinner we accepted Mr. J — b — sn's invitation to
show us again around the city, and set out in his com-
pany. We called by the Church of the Sepulchre, and
uazed on its sacred relics and wonders again. We visited
once more the very spot on which we were told that the
crucifixion took place. By another examination of the
" rent in the rock," I detected plainly, as I thought, by
the sense of touch, the marks of edged tools. But I did
not hint the fact to our reverend guide. To what super-
lative nonsense we are compelled to listen !
Under Mr. J — b — sn's guidance, we wended our way
next to the fine Church of St. James. This splendid edi-
fice belongs to the Armenians, and I think, without
' exception, it is superior to any like structure in the city,
not even excepting the Church of the Sepulchre. The
Church of St. James is situated at some distance from the
Prussian Hospice, and is very near the Anglican Chapel.
I was particularly struck with the arrangement of the
floor, which is beautifully tesselated, and with the magni-
ficent inlaid doors of mother-of-pearl — doors which were
massive in proportions. This church is built on the sup-
•_'-">il SPRINKLED WITH ROSE-WATER.
posed site of the death of St. James. In a small side
chapel, most gorgeously and most gaudily furnished, we
were shown a stone said to be the one on which St. .lames
was decapitated. We also had the pleasure of sitting in
a vcr\ handsome massive chair said to be the one formerly
s Ibythi apostle. Judging from its evident costly nature,
1 am far from thinking that the apostle was in needy cir-
cumstances.
Upon presenting a priest with some small pieces of
money, we were mosl plentifully besprinkled from head
to lout with rose-water of a most delicate and exquisite
odor — a procedure which much surprised Meinherr, the
"huzzar." The Armenian Convent, a magnificent build-
in-, is in juxtaposition to the church. At another time I
shall speak of it more fully.
On our return to the Hospice, we came by an old
German lady's, and purchased some handsome flowers.
beautiful and tasty souvenirs of Jerusalem, of Olivet.
Dead Sea, &c, &c. We got home late, and immediately
took tea, after which Mr. Deniss, the photographer, called
on us, and we made definite arrangements relative to our
photograph. The weather is bitter cold.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem. )
Tuesday, March 8th,J.859. j
Last night, after Buffering intense agony from a carious
tooth, 1 fell into an uneasy slumber, which,, fortunately
for my peace of body, lasted till morning. Fortunately
lor the piea of tooth, there is no dentist in this old city,
else it had fallen a \ ictim to the forceps as soon as I could
TOOTHACHE. 251
see my way. Toothache, I take it, is man's moral tester.
Ache — ache ! — throb ! — throb! — and it increases the more
you endeavor to allay the harrowing torment; while all
of your companions, with gentle, easy, regular breathing,
sleep away their time and trouble in blissful slumber, and
their ear is deaf to your sobs of pain, wrung out in spite
— of your teeth. Worse than agony, by far ! A flattering
calm cheats you into the idea that there is a total cessa-
tion of pain, and that the grim monster, who, plunging away
with hammer and gouge at the roots of your teeth, has
finally left you, satisfied with that base work which he can
well call Ms own. But, in a twinkling, like a flash of light-
ning, that same dreaded pang darts through your system,
shatters your bright prospects of speedy rest and sweet
repose, and hurls before your distorted gaze hideous, tor-
turing pictures of all-night agony ! Such was my sad
experience last night — a like, I hope, mine never to be
again. My exhausted energies too forcibly attest now
the severity of the struggle last night.
Well, to confess the truth, this day has been spent by
us mostly in grumbling ; — by us, I say and mean, without
a single exception. The weather seems bent on being con-
trary, and as if determined it will never favor us and our
well-laid plans. It is constantly unpropitious, and I
really beiieve it grows worse on every succeeding day.
We remained, as a consequence, in doors until late in the
day, not daring and not desiring to venture out in such
weather. We amused ourselves chiefly by looking at the
various curiosities brought us for inspection, and for sale
{ultimate object, of course), by the Arabs, from the city
i. v RG LINING PO R CG R [OS I T I 6S.
and from Bethlehem. These curiosities were, pearl-shells
and brooches, and olive-wood ornaments, such as small
cups, balls, blocks, and canes. Some of the shells and
brooches arc carved with a considerable degree of skill,
and reflect credit on the rude workers in the art. It is
amusing to sec at what exorbitant prices these wandering
merchants at first value their articles. 1 Bay, at first, for
they invariably take, and arc verj glad to get, even half
dt' their primal price. I have an instance in mind: — I
was much pleased with a large pearl-shell which a fellow
was exhibiting. I le saw my anxiety to procure the article.
On demanding its price. I was very much surprised to
hear him say, in the coolest manner possible, fivehundred
piastres! (A piastre is worth four American cents!) I
turned away immediately, and, as S. termed it. tried to
■ Cornt the Yankee" on him. I pretended 1 did not wish
the shell at any price, and would consider it dear if he
should give it to me. Well, I finally obtained the orna-
ment very easilj for twenty-two piasters — about its worth.
Among other article-. 1 purchased some very pretty black
wooden beads — very odoriferous — from Mecca. I laid in
quite a stock of sandal and olive wood, and camels'-bone
rosaries, bloodstones and cornelians; all were remark-
ably cheap. It is quite a treat to have an Arab merchant
in your room, and a dance at his gewgaws wtfl interest
any one.
Pretty late iii the day we strolled over to the Mount
of Olives, and enjoyed the scene presented from the sum-
mit of the sacred mountain. A position is here afforded
where we can Btand wrapped in our own thoughts and
VIEW FROM MOUNT OLIVET. 253
commune silently yet sweetly with fancyings of the dead
p;lst_can bring the long-buried actors of that far religious
time into life again, and view in the mind's eye some of
those stirring scenes which here presented a spectacle
to the world in that great drama in which the Son
of God played the tragic part. A melancholy, yet sad
and sweet employment — one in which we all indulged.
The Mount of Olives is in fact the grand stand-point from
which to take a first and final view of Jerusalem and the
surrounding country. The general outline of the " wil-
derness of Judea and the regions beyond Jordan" — the
long blue ridge of the Moab Mountains, and the neighbor-
ing fields of Bethlehem, in which Ruth gleaned, can be
distinctly seen. " Taking our stand, then, we look down
the shelving side of Olivet into the dark, bare glen of the
Kidron, sweeping from the distance on the right away
down to the left. The eye follows it till it is joined by
another dark ravine, coming in from behind a high ridge
to the westward. That ravine is Hinnom, and that ridge
is Zion. On the left bank of the Kidron we can just
observe through the olive trees the white pointed top of
Absalom's Pillar, and the flat gravestones of the Jewish
cemetery, and farther to the left, the gray excavated cliffs
and houses of Siloam. In the foreground beyond the ravine
is the beautiful enclosure of the Haram — the octagonal
mosk, with its noble dome in the centre, occupying the
site of Oman's threshing-floor and Solomon's Temple ; the
flagged platform around it ; and then a grassy area with
its olives and cypresses encircling the whole. At the left-
hand extremity is the Mosk el-Aksa, easily distinguished
V l E W FROM KOI NT OLIV ET.
by its peaked roofs(?) and dome — Formerly the Churcb
of St. Mary. Beside the enclosure, at the right-hand
corner, is a prominenl group of buildings, with a tall
minaret adjoining them. This is the pacha's residence
and tin1 site of the Fortress of Antonia. The massive
ancient masonry at the southern angle of the wall is very
conspicuous; and so likewise is the double-arched gate-
way in the side, generally known as the 'Golden Gate,'
now walled up. Farther to the right, north of the Haram
area, is St. Stephen's Gate, and the white path winding
up to it front the bottom of the Kidron at the Garden of
Gethsemane. Northward of the gate, along the brow of
the valley, nms the city wall. Formidable-looking in the
distance with its square tower. To the right of the
Haram a broad irregular ridge extends northward, thinly
inhabited, interspersed with gardens and crowned by a
mosk and minaret. This is Bezetha. The low ridge of
Ophel is on the opposite side o!" the Haram, sinking down
rapidly into the bed of the Kidron behind Siloam ; it
contains no buildings, but is thickly sprinkled with olives.
It can now be seen how these three hills, Bezetha, Moriah,
and Ophel, Form one long ridge. Behind them is a valley
dividing the city From north to south, and Falling into the
Kidron just above its junction with Hinnom. At its
northern l",u\. hid by Bezetha, is the Damascus Gate; and
the southern section of it. beyond the Haram, was
anciently called the Tyropaeon.
••On another very prominent ridge lies the western
section of the city. To the right is Akra, rising to an
angle, uear which we distinguish the large white build-
VIEW FROM MOUNT OLIVET. !■)■)
ings of the Latin convent, reminding one of a factory ;
below them, a little to the left, are the two domes and
heavy square tower of the Church of the Sepulchre;
and still further to the left, a green field, marking the
site of the ancient palace of the knights of St. John.
x\kra is now the Christian quarter of the city. To the left
is Zion, still the most prominent of all the hills. Its
northern limits are distinctly marked by the massive
towers of the citadel, rising up from a slight depression
in the ridge. Close to these, but presenting a striking
contrast in its fresh look, is the English church ; further
to the left is the Armenian convent, a vast irregular
mass of houses, with a little dome in the midst of them.
The Jewish quarter occupies the steep face of the hill, its
half-ruinous houses hanging one above another. Without
the wall on the south is a group of buildings, amid which
we see a white dome and high minaret, marking the
Mahommedan, and probably the real, tomb of David.
From this, the hill breaks down in terraces of olives to
the Valley of Hinnom.
"On the south side of the Valley of Hinnom is the Hill
of Evil Counsel, so called by the monks, with a ruined
village and a solitary tree on its summit. Beyond it is
the green plain of Rephaim, or ' Valley of the Giants ;'
and away on the south, about three miles distant, we
observe the convent of Elias, crowning a ridge on the
road to Bethlehem. Turning northward, the only con-
spicuous place in the distance is Neby Samwil, the
ancient Mizpeh, easily distinguished by its high tower.
Along the whole western horizon runs a uniform line of
256 \ l l w FROM KOU N T OLl v E r.
brown lulls, about equal in altitude t<> those on which
the v i t \- stands.
"Such is the western view from the summit of Olivet:
ami the eastern one Bcarce yields to it in interest, while it
tar surpasses it in extent. The latter, however, is hnt
seen from a little wely, called Kubbet esh-Shuhada, -the
Dome of the Witnesses,' about two hundred yards beyond
the minaret. Here we stand on the very brow of the
mount. Tin' 'Wilderness of Judea' commences at our
feet; shelves down in a succession of naked white hills
and dreary gray dens lor ten miles or more, and then
dip- abruptly into the deep valley of the Jordan. A
scene of sterner desolation could not be imagined. The
Jordan valley conies from the distance in the north,
gradually expanding into a white plain, and terminating
at the Dead Sea, a section of whose waters is seen over
the lower dill's of the -Wilderness.' The winding course
of the .Ionian can be traced for some distance up the
plain, by its dark line of verdure. Away beyond this
long valley rises suddenly a long unbroken mountain
range, like a huge wall, stretching north and south, as
tar as the eve can follow it. The section on the right is
within the territory of Moab; that in the centre directly
opposite ns. was possessed by the Ammonites; while that
on the left hand was anciently called Gilead, and still
retains its name. Evening is the proper time for this
view, for then the pale blue lights and purple shadows
on the Moab Mountains are exquisitely beautiful. The
•lire, too, of the white wilderness is subdued; and the
A KEEN TRADER. 257
deep valley below appears still deeper from being thrown
into shade."
I did not remain on Olivet as long as the others of my
party did ; fearing exposure to such inclement weather, I
hastened home, and was glad enough when I was snugly
seated by a cosy fire at home, with my guide-book in rny
hand. As I came along, I saw a pair of handsome pistols
(Arab), and wishing them, more as a memento than any-
thing else, I offered the old fellow of the Bazaar a fair
bargain for them with my Neapolitan, and more effective,
weapon. But no — he did not wish to sell them anyway;
but if I would pay him the price he asked, and then give
him my pistol to hoot, perhaps he would trade. Singular
idea, I thought — first, to value my pistol at nothing ; se-
cond, to be willing, if he sold at all, to sell at a certain
price ; third, to wish my pistol, after having received full
pay for his ; and fourth, to have articles for sale which
he was not anxious to dispose of! He was a Turk, else
I would have adjudged him guilty of indulging too fondly
in our Western habit or — juice (?). So I left him.
In the afternoon we called on Mr. Deniss, and were for-
tunate enough to find him in. We purchased of him
quite freely; I bought twelve magnificent photographic
views of him, these views representing Jerusalem, Betha-
ny, Bethlehem, &c.
As it is somewhat dull, and too soon to retire for the
night, it is proposed that some one tell a story. Esslinger
is preparing to gratify our wishes, and so I will lay aside
my pen and listen.
17
CHAPTER XII.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem.
Wednesday, March 9th, 1859.
HIS has been, in part, the worst day I ever spent
\\S) anywhere! Snow, wind, and rain — loajours! and
the thermometer ranging from low to lower
throughout the long, weary twelve hours that
measured the space between dawn and sunset. Terrible!
and to spend our precious time idly thus, while around
us are curiosities of religion and instructive wonder, spread
with a lavish hand! It is doubly hard that such should
be our fate. However, we should not murmur, bearing
in mind that it is a high and blessed privilege to be in
this once-favored of all lands, at any time and in any
weather He may choose to send on earth. We were com-
pelled to read, in self-defence; the weather was too un-
propitious even to stroll through the bazaars. So we
Laughed, read, lounged, and — grumbled; our reverend
friend, even, nolens volens, indulging just a little bit in the
latter. Esslinger is in perfect despair; and the warlike
" huzzar" has relapsed into a perfect state of " don't care,"
as he reflects on the tact that he has to remain here any-
way, be the weather ;j<iod i r had, until the ceremonies of
tl,.- Eastern foolishness are over. S. would and did go
(258)
MANUFACTORY OF ORNAMENTS. 259
out, in spite of the heavy-falling rain ; and in about two
hours returned with an Arab dress, the trophies of his
stroll — though he was half frozen and entirely wet, quite
natural results of such temerity. We enjoyed ourselves
very much, in want of something better to do, at the
ludicrous appearance each of us presented, as, one by one,
we habited ourselves in S.'s purchase — "just to see how
the thing looked."
After dinner, at his suggestion, we accompanied Mr.
Theil to a German establishment in the city, where orna-
ments of olive-wood are made and kept for sale. We
ventured out under promise from our worthy landlord,
who assured us the place was very near. However, we
got "soaking wet" — to use a Virginia expression — and
are inclined henceforth to doubt Mr. Theil's word, so far
as rain is concerned, or to interpret his expressions differ-
ently from what he evidently does.
We were surprised to see such thrift and enterprise as
was exhibited in the shop to which he led us. When we
reached the place, they were engaged in turning out, very
rapidly and very neatly, various ornaments, and seemed to
have their hands full of work. How they dispose of their
stock, I cannot imagine — I am sure the domestic demand is
not equal to the supply. I bought several little keepsakes,
which I will prize highly, provided I can get them safely
to America, though many dangers are to be encountered,
and many miles of sea and land to traverse, ere that far
coast will be reached. God send, I may safely reach
that soil !
After supper to-night, we had a general fuss, in regard
ESSLINGER S S l'"i; v.
to photographs; same wanted one thing, and some
another. Ami now there is a Bchism in camp, and the
"house i> divided against itself." The photograph to
which I refer, was to be taken l>\ Mr. Deniss, of our entire
party in the Garden of Qeilisemane. For some reason,
known only to them, our German la-others have declined
entering into the arrangement. We three Americans,
however, have concluded to have the picture taken at all
events. It being now definitely "fixed" to this effect,
once again, -order reigns in Warsaw."
Las1 nighl we listened attentively to a thrilling stor^
told ns by Esslinger. We were much interested in the
recital. Be spoke to such a late hour, that I was unable
to write further in my Journal. As the narrative ma}
not be unacceptable to those whom chance might lead to
peruse these pages, 1 give it here, as nearly as 1 can recol-
lect, in the narrator's own words.
THE BLACK BORSEMAN OF THE JUNGFRAU.
There is no person (commenced the narrator), who has
ever travelled on the Continent of P]urope, and has not
climbed or seen, or at least heard or read of the glorious
and stupendous mountain of the Jungfrau, which rears
its craggy peaks in in}- far off native Switzerland. Its
massive bulk can be seen for miles away, and the far off
faintly perceptible fleece of cloud, floating high in air, does
not reach it- summit. With the dizzy ridges, yawning
rifts, and quiet frozen glens of the mountain, are connected
many tales and legends of wild and startling import —
Legends which from their very wildness, gain your atten-
esslinger's story. 261
tion, as your hardy peasant-guide striding on before you,
staff in hand, pours their full tide into your listening ear.
The following dark tale, which I will relate you, was told
me some years ago, as resting, prior to attempting to scale
the rough sides of the Jungfrau, I loitered at its base. I
will give the story as it was told me by my worthy
guide, Jean Goujon, of whom some of you may have
heard.
It was a Christmas night, now twenty years ago, said
Jean, that, in the little hamlet, clustered on the south
side of the Jungfrau, was gathered a gay party of bold and
hardy rustics, in one of the peaked-roof cottages of the
village. The night was intensely bitter, the wind sang
dolefully down the long rocky glens of the overshadowing
mountain, and crept moaningly among the closely huddled
houses of the hamlet. The snow fell in large unbroken
flakes, and whirled its legions of fleecy cohorts along the
almost wholly deserted streets. So thick was the blinding
mass of falling snow, that it was only occasionally that
the lights in the cottages struggled through the s:loom,
and marked the spot as the abode of men.
In spite of the gloom, however, which gave such a
funereal, forbidding aspect to out-door objects, it was a
right merry company that gathered in the snug cottage
of Conrad Richelderfer. It was the auspicious (or in-
auspicious (?) ) eve long looked forward to with much
anxiety by two loving hearts. For four years, now,
had Ileinrich Edelmann loved and been beloved by
Jeannette Richelderfer. Nothing as yet had come
between them and happiness ; — this night was to witness
2G2 ESS! [NG] R'S STORT.
them man and wife— a relationship filling their cup <>I
ji>\ ami gladness i«> the ven brim. Groomsmen and
bridesmaids, rustic sons and daughters of the Canton,
-to.>d r<;id\ to fulfil their appointed pleasing parts, while
happiness and good-humor beamed on ever} face. The
hour was waxing late and some of the company began
to show unmistakeable signs of impatience at the retarda-
tion of tin- ceremony. It was soon whispered among the
crowd thai the bridegroom was not present; and none
knew of his whereabouts. This \\;i- a strange procedure;
so thought the good folks assembled, and so tiny
spoke, 'ldie tare of the young maiden, the bride, grew
ashy pale at the news, and Tear took undisputed posses-
sion of her countenance.
At Length the father of the bridegroom, who was pre-
sent, exclaimed: — :'Good folks, there is some mystery
about this affair; my son is no laggard; and would not
lie. especially, in such a case as this. Rest assured that
-Mine ..ther power than Ins own keeps him from the mar-
riage feast. Is there anyone present who can give tiding
of my boy Heinrich?" But no one could say. Some sug-
gested one thing, some another. A strange, a fearful feel-
ing had taken possession of all presold, and all knew, as
by instinct, that some evil of a darksome nature was im-
pending. At length a youth, who seemed as if recalling
a circumstance, Stepped suddenly forth, and said, "1 saw
Heinrich just before the evening meal. His yager was
slung across his shoulder, and Im- said he went to hunt
the chamois, as he wished a fresh skin wherewith to cover
esslinger's story. 263
the shoulders of his fair Jeannette. He bent his stride
up the Jungfrau, toward the Black Crag."
" The Black Crag ! and at that time of day !" exclaimed
a dozen at once in a horrified breath, while a look of
doubled fear settled on the face of each, and Jeannette
sank swooning away.
" Why, the lad is crazy !" cried Conrad Richelderfer.
" Does he not know that the Black Horseman infests the
dingles of the Black Crag, and that to-night is his yearly
time for riding and for — DEATH ?" The last words the
peasant uttered in a low, whispered, half-frightened tone,
and each one muttered — " for DEATH !"
The Black Crag is well known to all who visit Swit-
zerland, and feast their vision on the glorious panorama
of that country's wild scenery, in which the Jungfrau
forms an object of visionary interest. Every guide im-
presses particularly on you the glorious views to be had
from the high crest of the Crag, and fills your ears with
tales of the marvellous concerning witches and spectral
hunters, devils and bogles, which inhabit the gorges
beneath the rock. Among other legends of the place is
the one to which reference has just been made — that of
the " Black Horseman." This object (it is not a human
being, but a supernatural creature, they say), is ever,
when abroad, an angel of death. He is seen only once
throughout the long year, and woe be unto the single tra-
veller— in such a certainty he never returns to tell of his
sad fate. The solemn report of the Black Horseman's
carbine carries death with its echo — none can escape the
bullet of that demon rifle. Many strange legends the
i ssi inger's BTOB V.
peasants tell of this bogle, ;is it wanders on a coal-black
charger which apparently flies through the thick woods
and jungles — for no trace of its foot-track is ever to be
found. No peasant dares go into the mountain on Christ-
mas night. Then it would be certain death to be in the
vicinity <>f the Black Crag. It is Baid that <>n one dark
Christmas night some peasants, who were crossing the
slope ot' tlic mountain, saw distinctly this fearful horse-
man. Their description of him, as he came thundering
by on his midnight charger, which snorted smoke and
flame, while the long elfin locks of the rider floated hack
wildly in the wind, and his eyes gleamed straight ahead,
was terrifying even to listen to. Such was the Black
Crag, and Mich the Black Horseman — names which struck
terror to the lately joyous and merry crowd gathered at
Conrad Richelderfer's cottage on this Christmas night.
"I am quite sure now." spoke again the missing lad's
father, "that something has befallen my Heinrich; some-
thing awful has happened. 1 am convinced. But," he
continued, noticing the effect of his ill-boding words on
the fair Jeanette, " it will be all right by-and-bye. I say,
lads, Horseman or no Horseman, we must go in search
of Heinrich !"
"Good father," spoke a young man in reply, "we are
willing to lace any danger for Heinrich, on this or on any
other night; but how could we find our way in the face
of such a storm as this? None of us would ever return;
and. in our attempts to find poor Heinrich, all of us would
fall victims to the cold which freezes everything without,
esslinger's story. 265
or to the Black Horseman who scours even now the dark
forest, and speeds over the frozen glens of the mountain."
" Aye ! think again, good father," spoke another hardy
fellow of the party ; " if Heinrich is dead, then we could
do him no good ; and if alive, mind me, the lad is smart
enough, and active enough, to care well for himself." A
murmur of approbation followed.
"Well, then," replied the old man, "I ask ye not to
go ; but I will just take my trusty yager, and go in search
of my son all alone." Just then, the crunching sound of
footsteps striding hastily along the snow-clad streets, fell
on their ears ; in another instant the door was thrown
violently open, and a man precipitated himself right into
the assembly. A deathly pallor overspread his face, and
he shook in every limb with badly-concealed fear.
" Heard ye not the carbine, folks ? The Black Horse-
man is abroad ! — his yager echoed but a moment since,
up yonder by the Black Crag !" The man spoke in quick,
hurried tones. Every one quailed with fright ; even old
Schwartz, the father of the missing jungling, drew back
as he heard the fearful words, and seemed to pause in his
daring undertaking.
" And how know ye," he asked, anxiously, " that it was
the yager of the Black Horseman ? There are others who
own yagers in these parts."
" A.y" returned the man, " but few, who choose on
such nights as this, to hunt the chamois! Besides, a
moment before the dread carbine sounded on the air, I
plainly heard the crack of a common earthly yager — it
was nothing like that of the Horseman's yager. Ah ! I
esslinger's stort
too well know the unearthly report of that carbine!"
The man shuddered, and drew still nearer the crowd, as
he indulged ill recollections. •• And." he continued.
"just before that loud sound echoed in the hamlet, 1
heard the rushing noise, as n\' many mountain blasts:
yet, friends, 1 felt hot air streaming over me, and a bright
light flashed for a moment in the jungles of the Jungfrau !
1 tell you, folks, the Black Horseman is fairly abroad to-
night, and 1 stir not hence till full broad day. His deeds
are not done; it was just this way he gave us his terrible
signs, when, on that dreaded Christmas night, long time
ago, Carl and Hermann Kriimlich went to the Black
■
Crag, in defiance of the Horseman, and — never returned!"
All kept silent. Poor Jeannette had dropped into a
chair, and now wailed her anxiety in pent-up and heart-
deep sobs. Still the absent lover — the missing Ileinrich —
came not.
A low murmuring sound was indistinctly heard, rising
over the gentle wailing of the night-wind, along the
snow-enshrouded streets, and creeping with death-like
sadness into every crevice and chink of Richelderfer's
cottage.
" Thais //" Black Horseman's moan /" whispered old
Schwartz, while he scarcely seemed to breathe.
" 'Tie so !" whispered hack the man.
Suddenly a rushing, whirring sound echoed through
the air; a light, as that of noonday, streamed through
the only window of the cottage, and the sharp, ringing
report of that unearthly carbine ran- again and again
through the apartment. A glance at the window, to
esslinger's story. 26'
which every eye was directed, showed, standing motion-
less as a statue, without bridle, martingale, or saddle, the
gigantic steed of the dreaded Horseman ! A cry of
anguish from one of the girls called attention in that
direction. There sat poor Jeannette, the cold glaze of
death in her eyes, while the purple tide, welling freely
over the robe of spotless white, told the accuracy of the
demon's bullet. A single exclamation of horror echoed
through the room, when all at once the apartment was
rendered dark by a huge shadow, and in stalked with
giant stride the dreaded Black Horseman ! A strange,
unearthly object it was that stood before them. His
head — a bare skull with the grinning teeth rattling in
the white jaw-bones touched the very ceiling. To this
bleachened skull, long, jagged, scattering locks streamed
down in disconnected masses, and eyes of supernatural
lustre rolled wildly in their bony sockets. The heavy car-
bine, smoking from the recent discharge, hung across his
back. His huge skeleton feet, encased in goat-hide
sandals, gave no sound as he walked. There was no time
for fear or for speech : the white jaw-bones opened, and a
cavernous, sepulchral voice echoed through the room —
" Whoever weds on Christmas night, and pays me homage
by wandering through my glens of solitude, him I must
honor — honor with — death I I met him, ye mourners, in
my Black Crag home. He raised his puny rifle, and
essayed to take the life of him who is doomed to live for
ever ! His own boyish aim laid him low — for his smart
bullet discharged my carbine ! He lies high on the Black
Crag, away up yonder in the black night, in my own
•_ *8 ESSLIN G ER'S STOB V.
haunted home. The chilling snow has nearly covered
him up, and his Mood is cold. I have come for his
bride — it is my rule She lias consented to conic — there
Bhe lies, waiting for these arms to hear her away. Come,
sweet bride of death, your lover awaits you, and I am his
messenger!" The strange being strode forward and
grasped the fair form of the dead girl.
"Cleave him down, lads ! cleave him down !" shouted
old Schwartz, recovering from his stupor, and snatching
his hunting-knife from its sheath ; and Conrad Richel-
derfer drove his heavy Made with the fury of a fiend full
at the figure. The keen blade met nothing in its descent
save the yielding air; it passed through the phantom, but
it left no mark. A light, scornful laugh was all the reply.
Schwartz hastily snatched a yager near by, and, aiming
fair at the demon's heart, pulled trigger. The ball sped
by, the smoke cleared away, and the Horseman smiled
that same scornful smile. A moment more, with the
dead girl in his arm-, while her fair hair floated wildly
back, he Bprang on his gigantic charger and dashed away
through the gloom toward the mountain. In an instant
he was gone! A moment more and a lurid glare blazed
high up on the cliffs, and in thai glare was plainly seen
the Black Crag, and on it. the unburied corpse of young
Beinrich, half hid beneath the falling snow; while, lower
down, the demon steed, with his infernal rider bearing
away the dead girl, dashed onward and upward at a fly-
in- pace. The light disappeared, and a scornful laugh
Bwepl faintly to the ears of the horror-stricken rustics.
eral years afterwards, old Schwartz, Conrad Richel-
esslinger's story. 269
derfer, and two others, in wandering through the jungles
of the Jungfrau, came suddenly unawares upon the Black
Crag. What was their amazement and horror when they
espied two ghastly, grinning skeletons lying side by side
on the highest ridge of the Crag !
Such was the wild tale told me by my guide, Jean
Gougon, who concluded by saying, ' I, myself, have seen
the Black Horseman twice, but fortunately I was not
alone. There to the right, yonder is Richelderfer's old
cottage, and before the sun sets to-day, I will show you
the Black Crag and the view we obtain there.' "
Such was Esslinger's story, told with good effect by
that prince of good fellows.
But while I have been writing, the hours have flown
rapidly away, and my friends, one by one, have retired
for the night. I must shut up my ink-stand and wipe my
pen, for my own eyelids are heavy. To-morrow we have
determined, come rain or shine, that we will set out for
the Dead Sea, Jericho, and Jordan. Ibrahim is to awaken
us early in the morning, with everything ready for the
expedition.
I expect to-night, as was my fortune last night, to have
sweet dreams of the weird " Horseman," and the two
decaying corpses found by old Schwartz Edelmann and
Conrad Richelderfer on the mysterious, haunted " Black
Crag."
In my tent, amid the ruins of Jericho, 10 o'clock, p. M.
Thursday, March 15, 1859.
And am I indeed in the Valley of Jordan — in sight of
•J ,'n \ \ l.l.i' V o\- JORDA N.
the Mount of Temptation, the Dead Sea. and "Jordan's
stormy banks t" True, indeed; and at this moment, on
this calm, moonlight night, 1 am resting in my little
tent, which is Bpread amid the ruins of that ancient city,
which fell before the din of rams' horns, Mown seven
times around its walls! Singular indeed :
Sometimes — very often, indeed, since 1 have been on
this eastern tour — 1 have wandered afar from my com-
panions, and. in the solitude of my own communings, I
have asked myself, "Is it indeed true, that 1 stand amid
these far away scenes, made sacred by divine and by
prophetic deeds.'" I find it, yes, blessedly true; and
here, on this lovely star and moonlight night, I rest near
thy hanks, oh! sacred Jordan! As I sit here musingly.
I recall everything which I ever read or heard concerning
this stream; and. indeed. I can scarcely realize, that I
resl in one of the Loveliest vales under heaven. So it is,
and impressed as I now am. 1 am compelled to murmur,
more humbly than ever. Blessed be Thy works, and
extended Thy kingdom, oh! God, for ever !
This morning, in Jerusalem, to our joyful surprise the
sun came out. bright and beautiful. We have had so
much rain and snow lately, that we had determined to
commence our excursion to-day, fair or cloudy, thankful
for the privilege of doing so at any time and under any
circumstances. As if in furtherance of our wishes, He
e us a bright -un to drive away dampness from
earth, and to bring joy to our hearts. At an early hour,
i rahim, <>wr good and noble-hearted young dragoman,
LEAVE JERUSALEM.
271
made his morning salaam, to us in bed — signified his
extreme pleasure at seeing us — declared good weather,
and hinted his readiness, nay, anxiety, to leave at as
early a moment as possible. We were glad to hear such
tidings, and straightway commenced arranging matters
for our Dead Sea and Jordan jaunt. After reloading our
pistols, which had for a time reposed in quiet dignity at
the Hospice, and making several other preparations, our
party, amounting to seven or eight — Ibrahim and suite
included — filed slowly out at St. Stephen's Gate, and
wound its way again over the beautiful brow of Mount
Olivet. On the further side of the sacred mountain we were
joined by our guarantee, in the shape of a sheikh (pronounced
shake), of the Bedaween. This fellow is a splendid wild-
looking specimen of the genuine Beddwy, and glories in
long black hair, fiery eyes, sharp features, and brilliant
pearly teeth. In going to the Jordan we are compelled
to pass several fierce tribes of the desert Arabs, and a
sheikh is an all-necessary accompaniment. But to this I
have referred more fully in a recent day's Journal. Our
sheikh went by the euphonious name of Sahlimah ; his
autograph I will here endeavor to copy. He was much
pleased when I requested it, and seemed proud that he
could write : —
This being translated means " Sahlimah, Sheikh for
Jordan." Sahlimah was a good-humoured fellow — a fine
273 a i N-r. i.-n \ r i>.
Bhot, considering his clumsy brass-banded barrel — and a
most exquisite horseman. 1 certainl} think his horse the
handsomest animal I ever beheld. Sahlimah, with all his
_ 1 qualities, however, partook of the nature of the rest
of his people, and thought perhaps more of bahJcahiahf
than of anything else, and continually hinted slyly at it.
or -poke right out concerning it. He boasted much and
often of his thousands of goats and camels — yel it seemed
to me, that our homely adage had a happy application.
even in this tar Judean clime, ••the more one gets, the
more he wants."
We passed through Bethany again, but all was silence
ami desolation. We lingered a lew moments to get some
brackish water, and then proceeded leisurely onward.
We finally descended quite abruptly, into the valley
between the Moab Mountains, and near the fountain Ain
el-Baud, of the Arabs, at the head of the gorge. We here
took a wry good though hasty de/euner d la fowrchette.
How that expression recalls things of the dead past!
The fountain of Ain-el-Haud has been thought by some
to be the " Fountain of the Prophets," or even the old m-
Sheme8h. I think, however, a substantial basis for such
an opinion is altogether wanting.
Having finished our breakfast, we once again formed
in marching order, and pushed ahead. On our way we
passed through a wild, desolate ravine, said to be the
!«• of the Good Samaritan parable. Judging from
the s.-litiidc' and barrenness of the locality, deeds of
charity would not go a-begging now-a-days. It was in
WADY-EL-KELT. 273
this same gorge, if I mistake not, that Sir Walter Scott
laid the scenes of Sir Kenneth's marvellous adventures.
After several hours of tedious travel, we came to an
old and fast-decaying ruin. . I do not know what this for-
merly was, but I do know it is situated in the bleakest
and wildest portion of our road. This is said to be the
most dangerous part of the route, and near the spot in
question Sir Frederick Henniker came near falling a vic-
tim to Arab assassination in 1820. The old ruin may
have been, in palmier days, the " wayside inn" of Scrip-
tures. Certain I am, however, that I would not like to
frequent the place unless I was sure that a strong escort
was in hailing distance.
As we continued our way, we came to the magnificent
gorge — the brook, or Wady-el-Kelt — and here I witnessed
some of the finest, grandest, and most awe-inspiring
scenery I ever beheld. Far down the steep rocky, almost
perpendicular opposing cliffs, which are so close together
that a stone can be tossed readily from one to the other,
we see a small brilliant belt of limpid water. Its tiny
falls and fairy cascades, however, could not be heard at
our position.
Speaking of this gorge, a favorite writer remarks,
" The sides are almost sheer precipices of naked rock
occasionally pierced by grottos, apparently inaccessible to
anything except the eagles that now hover round them ;
and yet history tells us that all these uncomfortable dens
were once occupied by hermits. One is shown where an
anchorite is said to have lived, the cravings of whose cas-
tigated body were satisfied with four raisins a day."
18
-74 THE BROOK CH IK I Til.
Tin-; voady, or brook, expands into the beautiful plain
oi Jordan, and l»\ some baa been rightly supposed, in my
opinion, to be the brook "Cherith" where Elijah was fed
by the ravens. The Bible historj of the affair is plain —
"Get thee hence, and turn thee eastward, and hide
thyself by the brook Cherith, thai is before Jordan."
(] Bangs xvii. 3). This must be the Cherith of Scripture,
I think, discarding other reasons ; for, had Elijah turned
"eastward? on the farther or eastern side of Jordan, he
would have gone a long way bo find ••Cherith;" in other
words, there is no such gorge or wady existing, which is
'/• enough the river in question, to warrant the expression
"before Jordan." In fact, 1 think the whole dispute
turns on the interpretation of the word "before." I am
under the impression, it means nothing more nor less
than oppositt and near to. Moreover, the " brook" is well
fitted for purposes of concealment — Elijah's motive in going
thither. The Arabs have a tradition of their own, that
priests and hermits of old had been fed by ravens at this
place : showing the existence at all events of a legend as
connected with the ravens. Some writers, in a far-fetched
manner, explain that what is meant by raven is wild Aral) (!)
that the Hebrew, Greek, and Arabic wrords for raven are
identical in some respects — and that, in the latter language,
sides meaning a bird or raven, it likewise signifies a
I)> -' rt A rah; they say, in fine, it was by these wild fellows
that Elijah was fed, and not miraculously by ravens. I
am not a sufficient lexicographer to settle this dispute of
words — but marob, in Arabic, means crow, and also robber
. ,r wild man. For me, I do not believe in the forced
FOUNTAIN OF ELISHA. 275
interpretation of Scripture; and if my knowledge of Latin
and Greek bears me out, there is no similarity in the
words meaning raven, in the separate languages.
That the Wady-Kelt is Cherith, I think there exists no
plausible reason to doubt, though Dr. Stewart and others
argue learnedly to the contrary.
A few moments more and our visions were gladdened
with the sacred sights and the glorious beauties gathered
in the wide-spreading plain of Jordan. Imagine my emo-
tions when the Mount up which our Saviour was led " to
be tempted," — the Dead Sea, — the ruins of ancient and
modern Jericho, and the stream of ever hallowed Jordan,
were pointed out to my eager gaze ! I cannot describe
what I felt.
Before proceeding to camping-ground we continued up
the valley, through a rich and fertile section of land,
covered with shrubs, and visited the Fountain of Elisha,
or " Ain es-Sultan" of the Arabs. This fountain bursts
right from the base of a rough wall, or from the foot of a
mound near it. The water is quite sweet, very warm,
and earthy, as if it were from a stagnant pool. This,
then, is the fountain (and there can be no doubt of it,
Porter says), whose waters, which were "naught," were
singularly changed by Elisha, by throwing of salt from a
" new cruse" therein. And this fountain stood in the
old Jericho of the prophets, and when to-night we drank
of that sacred water, we stood of course on the site and
amid the ruins of that ancient city. Near the Fountain
of Elisha, there is another, the name of which I have for-
gotten. It helps to irrigate that portion of the valley
_". 6 rn i: C a m ri n (,-<; ROC N D.
lying near it. Not tar from the fountain is the site of the
ancient Chateau of Doch. In it. it is said, Simon Mac-
cabffius was -lain 1>\ Ptolemy, his Bon.
We then turned our horses1 heads away, and took our
wa\ to the spot which lhrahini had chosen as our tent-
ground. ( >n reaching the place we found .Moses ( [brahim's
assistant) on the ground, the tents pitched, and dinner in
fair progress. Our old friend Hassan, our good Moukary,
was also there, with tethering lines for the horses; and
some tWO dozen wild Bedaween. hall-clad and lieive-look-
ing, stood around the crackling brush fire, Leaning on their
long guns. They made a picturesque addition to the
ic. Among these fellows were our so-called escort,
some five or six Bedaween, who had met us when half
way. and had accompanied us only a mile or two on our
journey. A precious escort, indeed!
lhrahini has given us the best dinner I have eaten since
we left .Malta. S. shot some birds, mostly pigeons (re-
sembling the American tarm pigeon), and in so doing,
surprised our worthy Sahliniah very much with the ease
he knocked over birds on the wing, with his English
double-barrel. I am quite confident that the sheikh would
willingly part with one-half of his imaginary or real flock
of goats to possess the fowling-piece.
We have just given a high bakhshish for a Bedaween
chant, a wild, barbarous, unearthly monotone, accompa-
nied with regular (dapping of hands, and contorted motions
of body, which, in sell-defence, and at a sacrifice of a still
largt r bakhshish, we were compelled to break off. I slept
awhile, a minute ago, and now here I am in my little tent
RUINS OF JERICHO. 277
with S. We occupy a nice little awning together, a little
too near the Arabs, perhaps, who keep up a low kind of
mumbling song, while they watch around the fire. But
it is good enough for us poor, miserable creatures," and
beggars, as we really are. We have eaten salt with our
guards, and Ibrahim says wTe can fully repose in their
confidence. The other four of our party occupy a larger
tent, while Ibrahim, Moses, and the cook fill a small
pocket-handkerchief-affair stretched out there, against a
rock.
Strange indeed are my thoughts, to-night, as I sit here
amid the rains of what was, long centuries since, the
" City of the Palms." My position is so novel that,
while I close my e}Tes for a time, and let my thoughts
wander back to my own republican America, I can
scarcely persuade myself that I am now thousands of
miles away, and that my feet, at this moment, press the
sod of the " Wilderness of Judea." My long stay in
Paris — my extensive tour on the Continent — the beauties
of the Piedmontese plains — the rugged grandeur of the
mountain scenery of Savoy — the lordly Rhine — the classic
charm of old Pome, its dead Coliseum, and its gay Pin-
cian Hill — all seem thrown confusedly together to make
one gay, chaotic, fantastic dream, and nothing more !
This — my presence in this land — in this valley, is the
grand feature, the incomprehensible achievement of my
life!
There have existed two Jerichos. " From the ' Jeru-
salem Itinerary we learn that the Jericho of the 4th cen-
tury was situated at the base of the mountain range, one
2 .'s UISTORl 0] JERICHO.
mile and a balf (Roman) from the fountain of Elisha,
and that the more ancient city bad stood !»\ the fountain
itself. This corresponds exactly with what we bave
already Been. The ruins on the banks of \\ ady-Kelt mark
the site of the Jericho of Herod, and of the New Testa-
ment; while those here around the fountain are the only
remnants of the Jericho of the Prophets." The Btirring
historj of Jericho max be found in the following excellent
sketch : —
•• Ascending the mound over the fountain, and Beating
ourselves on one of the old stones, we are prepared to
glance at Jericho's eventful history, and recall its thrilling
tciations. We have before us the great plains on
which the weary Israelites looked down, alter their wil-
derness journey, from the brow of yonder mountain ridge
away in the east (Numbers xxxiii. 47, 48). We have at
our feet the only remains of the eity to which Joshua
sent the spies from the plains of Moab, on the other wide
of the .Jordan ; and there behind ns is the mountain
where, on the advice of Rahab, thej hid themselves three
days to escape pursuit (Josh. ii.). Around this city, too.
after the spies returned, the Israelites marched mysto
riously during seven days; and on the seventh day, after
tic seventh circuit, 'the priests blew with the trumpets
.... And tic people shouted with a greal shout,' and
•tic wall fell down Hat, so that the people went up into
the city . . . and took the city' (Josh. \i.). Jericho'was
then wholly destroyed, and a singular curse pronounced
on whoever should rebuild it — 'Cursed be the man before
the Lord that riseth up and buildeth this city Jericho;
HISTORY OF JERICHO. 279
he shall lay the foundation thereof in his first-born ; and
in his youngest son shall he set up the gates of it' (Id. vi.
26). And after an interval of some five centuries it was
rebuilt and the curse executed. ' In his (Ahab's) days
did Hiel the Bethelite build Jericho ; he laid the founda-
tion thereof in Abiram, his first-born, and set up the gates
thereof in his youngest son, Segub' (1 Kings xvi. 34). A
school of prophets gathered round the spot almost imme-
diately. Elijah and Elisha came down to it from
Bethel — an easy day's journey — by a path through these
wild mountains on the north-west. From Jericho the
two went on, over the plain, to the banks of the Jordan ;
the ' sons of the prophets' followed them in the distance,
and at length took their stand ' in sight afar off' — pro-
bably on one of the upper terraces of the right bank — to
see the departure of their great master. And yonder on
the plain beyond the river, ' Elijah went up by a whirl-
wind into heaven.' But his mantle fell on Elisha, who,
on his return, divided the waters of the river, healed the
fountain that gushes out from the base of the mound at
our feet, and went up the mountain pass to Bethel,
where, in a forest, now gone, lurked the i two she-bears'
that ' tare the forty and two' wicked children (2 Kings ii).
" After the captivity, the inhabitants of Jericho re-
turned from Babylon ; but little is known of the city
until the time when its palm groves and balsam gardens
were given by Antony to Cleopatra. From her, Herod
the Great bought them, and made this one of his royal
cities, and adorned it with a hippodrome and many
stately buildings ; and here, too, that monster of iniquity
280 BISTORT OF JERICHO.
died. The Bite of this new city was. as we have seen.
one and a halt' miles t*> the soutli. on (lie banks of the
Kelt. It was new Jericho our Lord visited in In* way to
Jerusalem, lodging with Zacchaeus, who had climbed the
unore tire to see Him; and healing the poor blind
man (Luke wiii. 35, 13, and \ix. L— 10). Its subsequent
histor) is soon told. It became the head of a toparchy
under the Romans, but was deserted soon after the
Mohammedan Conquest."
Well, well, well! How I have &pwn out my Journal.
1 must unbuckle my pistol now, and to bed! To-morrow
we visit .Ionian and the Dead Sea; and are also shown,
gratis, the traditional tomb of Moses, though I believe,
ording to Holy Writ, "No man knoweth of his sepul-
chre to this day."
CHAPTER XIII.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem.
Friday, March 11th, 1859.
}
^6jyHIS morning we arose very early, and were repaid
with the gorgeous panorama of a sunrise over the
hills of Palestine. The scene was thrice lovely,
as we watched the gradual approach of the God of
Day, whose effulgent rays could be seen at first peopling
the far-off hill-tops with tiny purple rays, and then blaz-
ing brightly over the summits of the mountains near us,
flooding the whole valley in golden splendor. The morn-
ing breeze was crisp — what some term bracing — and as
muffled in our thick coats we viewed the waking scene,
situated as we were, having safely and pleasantly slum-
bered through the night, nothing scarcely could have
added to our comfort or thrilled our souls with more
soothing and profitable reflections. A light hazy fog,
resembling the fleece of a noonday sky, hung over the
valley, and half veiling, half unfolding, lent a charm to
the scene. Gray wreathing specks of cloud, marshalled
in flying squadrons, dashed along the far-off expanse of
blue. The Bedaween stood leaning on their long guns,
intently watching us as we viewed and drank in the
scene ; their picturesque attitude lent to the picture an
281
282 R 1 D 1 To\\ A R l> Til E JOR D A V
interesting feature. Bu1 booii the long shadows of the
mountains one by one disappeared from the valley, and
the sun. now highly risen, shone down with its usual
brilliancy.
Before the dew had fallen from their carollas, I gathered
some pretty flowers, and placed them safely in my satchel,
to keep them as souvenirs of a holy place lor my absent
friends in transatlantic America. We partook of a hasty
though first-rate breakfast, which again elevated Ibrahim's
mis',,,, in our opinion. Immediately alter our meal, the
canij) was in confusion, and we were Boon in the saddle.
Moses and the cook arranged the tents, cooking imple-
ment-. &c, hade us adieu, and left lor Jerusalem; we
needed their services no longer. As we left the camp,
and, in the exhilaration of the moment, rode on swiftly
through the dwarf shrub-trees, over the level plain, the
valle\ indeed seemed most lovely, and I fain would have
Lingered, enraptured with the sight; but Ibrahim urged
us on. asserting that to accomplish our day's work, and
reach Jerusalem before the Muzzim-cry to evening prayers,
would tax our activity to the utmost. Before the day
ended, we had ample cause to testify to the truth of his
predictions.
( hi we rode toward the Jordan — and it was a long ride.
It is singularly deceptive this river — or this plain — rather
boili combined. It was from our camp last night, appa-
rently about ha minuted walk, yet we were two hours
and more getting there this morning, and our gait was
not slow. In passing through the underbrush, S. shot
nil fine -.iiue birds, among them a partridge of the
LEBANON. 283
largest size I ever saw. The birds were very tame, and
S. was compelled to throw a stone at them to frighten
them, as he wished to shoot them on the wing. We saw
several storks also, and some birds of a species unknown
to me. Just before we reached the plain directly in front
of the Jordan, one of our afore-mentioned Beddwy escort
bantered me for a race — he on foot, embarrassed with his
long abba and cumbersome firelock, and I securely
mounted on a quick-footed native steed. I laughed at
him ; but to appease his evident mortification, I consented
to the race. I tapped my horse, and he bounded off at
full speed. What was my surprise to see my Arab com-
petitor come leaping over shrubs and gulches with the
agility of a deer, and when the goal on which we had
fixed was reached, he was more than three lengths ahead !
He did not boast, however, but covered my chagrin as
best he could.
As we were nearing the river, Ibrahim suddenly ex-
claimed " Liban ! Liban !" (Lebanon ! Lebanon !) Look-
ing in the direction he indicated, we saw the faint blue
outline of that snow-capped range, away up on the Syrian
coast.
Quite an amusing incident here occurred. A German-
Jew in company, having occasion for some reason to carry
Sahlimah's fowling-piece, accidentally lost the ramrod.
At this the sheikh, quite unexpectedly to all of us, waxed
exceeding wroth, and insisted on immediate indemnifica-
tion. m He sputtered out a great deal of Arabic, to which
our German friend, frightened half out of his wits, could
only reply, "Nichts versteht Arabika !" We assured
28 I liOUN T OF Tl M I'T \ TION,
Sahlimah thai he should be well bakhshished for his loss;
but he took it badly, and his sullen conduct was very
observable. We noticed ii with some uneasiness, though
our good Ibrahim assured as thai the sign of treachery on
the Beddwy's part would be his death-warrant, and
ss irted most positively thai he would deliver us sale and
sound that nighl at the Prussian Hospice. He then said
something in quite an authoritative manner to the
Bheik, with no other effect than a scowl of anger and of
perfect independence from the Beddwy. More than one
of us then glanced at the caps on our pistols. Hut the
storm blew away.
From one point in the valley, the Mount of Tempta-
tion (or the Quarantinia — so called because Christ here
fasted forty, of quaranta, in Italian, days) stood forth,
with its curved outline, in bold relief, slightly deviating
in its position from the other wild cliffs that frown down
on the Valley of Jericho. We could see a little chapel
away up on the summit of the mountain, and Ibrahim
pointed out to us the holes and caves in the rock, faintly
seen in the distance, which were formerly occupied by
hermits. As Porter says, it does indeed seem — so accurate
is the description given — that these magnificent lines,
descriptive of this scenery, were penned by Milton on the
spot : —
"It was a mountain ait whose verdant feet
A spacious plain, outstretched in circuit wide,
mi : from his side two rivers flowed,
Tin' one winding, the other straight ; ami left between
Fair champain with less rivers interveined
Then meetii _ joined their tribute to the sea:
BANKS OF THE JORDAN. 285
Fertile of corn the glebe, of oil and wine ;
With herds the pastures thronged, with flocks the hills ;
Huge cities and high-towered, that well might seem
The seats of mightiest monarchs, and so large
The prospect was, that here and there was room
For barren desert, fouutainless and dry.
To this high mountain top, the Tempter brought
Our Saviour, and new train of words began."
This description is true to the letter, and yet, if I mis-
take not, Milton never was in Palestine.
At last, however, we stood on the banks of the Jordan,
and once again, I must say, dreamingly strange were my
emotions, as I gazed on the rushing torrent. I thought
of the time when the humble Nazarene was baptized of
John in the same waters, and when the dove descended.
and the Godly voice was heard.
In fording a small swamp in order to reach the real
bank of the stream, the three Americans, including myself,
came near meeting with an accident. The bed of the
pond was soft and slimy, and our horses mired to their
haunches ; they were stout and fully equal to the task,
however, and after two or three desperate lunges, we
gained the shore. We were here again much amused at
our Jewish friend, whom I have mentioned in connection
with Sahlimah's old flint-lock. The poor fellow, no doubt,
burdened, like many more of us, with a heavy weight of
sin, was determined to wash it out in this, the waters
of sacred Jordan. And yet it seems, he did not — judging
from his actions — believe in the purity of the water as
instrumental in removing transgressions, for I was quite
surprised, on turning around, to behold him on his hands
286 THE JORDAN.
and knees, diligently engaged in rooting (if the expression
be Allowed) his face under the water in the slimy mud
at ihi />"//")/). A.s soon as he had finished his muddy
ablutions to his satisfaction, 1 asked him the occasion of
such strange procedure. He replied, with all gravity —
•■ Now that 1 am here, by this sin-removing stream, I
w ished to wash away, at once, all of my backsliding errors,
misfortunes, and bad luck ; so I thought, in view of the
magnitude and quantity of sin to my account, it would
require the quintessence of Jordan to remove them !" 1
did not stop to argue with him what constituted the
quintessence of the torrent: certain I am, however, that
tlie misfortunes which had attended him through life, did
not desert him after his hath in Jordan — for, in climbing the
dizzy mountain ridges, on our return to Jerusalem that
afternoon, the fellow's horse tumbled over a ledge, and
came near foiling on his rider. I rallied him concerning
his mishap, when he good-humoredly replied, " Oh ! the
water has not had time to act, — to reach my system /" If he
was content. I was. so the "quintessence*' subject dropped.
The Jordan (lows in a perfect torrent, through a deep
depression or fosse of about four hundred yards average
breadth, though the Jordan itself, at its widest portion.
viewed by our party, was only thirty yards across, and
generally not more than fifteen. The abrupt manner of
tie- -helving of this ravine, gives to the river an appear-
ance of having previously hail several banks, of different
distances apart. We find near the banks of the river, an
almost impenetrable thicket of weeds; while on the imme-
diate edge of the stream, " tamarisks, oleanders, and willows
THE JORDAN. 287
abound." A well known and deservedly popular writer
has likened the Jordan to the "yellow sanded Tiber." In
my eyes it resembles it no more than it does any other
stream of a like size. Moreover, the Jordan is a dark, rapid,
hissing torrent; its actual banks are of scarcely no height,
and its general course is nearly straight. The Tiber is
lighter in color, is a sluggish stream comparatively, and
has high bold banks including its waters, which are
very serpentine in their course. The true point of resem-
blance, I take it, is, one is a river, and so is the other.
The exact spot where the Israelites crossed is not
known, though much has been written at length, by
learned men, on the subject. We cannot base any argu-
ment, as has been well said, on the present condition of
the river, or of its banks — the channel and banks are
liable to many changes which can be wrought by the hand
of time. This thing is certain, however, according to
Joshua (iii. 16) that they crossed Jordan " right against
Jericho" and where we stood, therefore, could not have
been far from the place. In regard to this point, Dr.
Stuart thinks the water was cut off for the passage of the
army for twenty miles. " This, I consider a real valuable
discovery" (if discovery it is) " as it proves that the Jordan
was dried up for the space of twenty miles, so that
thousands of Israel could pass over in a very short space
of time." Dr. Robinson, agreeing with early traditions,
places the point of crossing five miles farther up the river,
and near where famous Gilgal of old stood. Here the
children of Israel encamped first.
Gilgal is a noted place of itself; here Gehazi was
2S8 Til E JORDAN.
punished — here the people of Judah received David from
exile — here the Tabernacle was once set up — here Syrian
Naanian was cured, &C, &C. Near this place, as in other
portions <«t* the valley, once grew large quantities of the
sugar-cane, which some writers think constituted the
••wild honey" of John the Baptist.
It was quite an interesting feature of our visit, at least
to me, to draw niv Bible from my pocket, and then
beneath the willow- that wave over the wildly flowing
Jordan, read the third and fourth chapters of Joshua,
in which such a thrilling and succinct account of the
•• passage" is given. It was suggested to me, and
unknown to my companions, I repaired for a few moments
to a small jungle, and there read that thrilling Bible narra-
te e. with an interest never before felt.
This spot where we now stood was indeed Holy Land,
rendered so by some of the most convincing proofs of
God's power and presence. It was here that Elijah
passed over the dry bed of the river, and was caught up
to heaven, in the plain beyond — it was here that Elisha,
the prophet's servant, on whom fell his master's robe,
also passed over the channel of the stream which ceased
flowing, when he cried out, ''Where is the Lord God of
Elijah?" (2 Kings ii.) Thus Jordan was here passed on
dry land three times; yet the crowning (-rail — the one
which has for ever consecrated the river, in the sight of
all Christian people, was the baptism of the Son of llim —
of Him. •• whose name shall he Immanuel," of Jesus Christ,
the God-born Saviour of our sinning race. It was here
that lie descended into the water, and was baptized of
BATHING IN THE JORDAN. 289
John. It was here the voice divine, coming from the
clouds, proclaimed Jesus to be "my beloved Son, in
whom I am well pleased."
Our feelings cannot then be imagined — for I am
persuaded from the language of Scripture, such as " leading
up" into " the wilderness," &c, all referring to geographical
features — that the place of the Saviour's baptism was
not far from the spot whereon we stood to-day.
The whole surrounding plain is throughout the year,
with one exception, nothing but a vast abode of desolation
and silence ; and nothing can be heard near the Jordan,
save its own rapidly-moving waters. The event to which
I allude, is the annual pilgrimage — observed by the Christ-
ian Churches of Palestine (in Jerusalem particularly) —
to the Jordan, for the purpose of bathing. This is at Eas-
ter ; drums and horns enliven the scene ; soldiers guard
the bathers, and the Turkish governor of Jerusalem is at
the head of the procession. The bathers plunge in, in all
attires ; some entirely nude, others (and mostly) in white
robes, carried for the purpose. The whole river in the
neighborhood, and the surrounding plain, present one mass
of confused humanity. They bathe throughout the day,
and depart with the greatest stillness in the night. Mr.
Stanley gives a very graphic description of the whole
ceremony ; I take his closing extract : —
" Once more they may be seen. At the dead of night,
the drum again awakes them for their homeward march.
The torches again go before ; behind follows the vast mul-
titude, mounted, passing in profound silence over the silent
plain — so silent, that but for the tinkling of the drum, its
19
290 i 'I I i" v " SEA.
departure would scarcely be perceptible. The troops sta^
on the ground to the end, to guard the rear; and when
the last roll of the drum announces thai the lasl soldier
is gone, tlic whole plain returns again to its perfect soli-
tude."
After gathering mementoes of various kinds — chiefly,
however, of pebbles, I lowers, and canes — and baking a last,
lingering look at Jordan, we once again mounted our faith-
ful Bteeds, and slowly took our wa\ toward the Dead Sea,
which lav silently and lonely before us, in full sight. Ah,
how warm was that fide! 1 have not as yet (hall' past
ten. i'. m.. in Jerusalem) recovered from it. This valley is
a perfect oven — and this in March ! What must it he in
Augusl '.
The plain of the Dead Sea is nearly seventeen hundred
feet below the Mediterranean; and the hot air comes
through the gorge as from the fiery mouth of a furnace.
On the tall mountain cliffs which border on this heated
plain, we experienced winter weather; while in the valley,
it was far worse than July heat ! The change was great, and
we suffered very much, fearing sunstroke at every moment.
But we lived through all. After a most exhausting ride
of one hour's duration, we suddenly drew up on the mar-
gin of that Bolemn and desolate-looking sheet. I cannot
adequately describe the Dead Sea. and the absence of every-
thing like life near it. Not a sparrow chirps forth his
note, nol an insect hums away its brief existence, not a
flower can be seen rearing its head near this place of
desolation. A stillness like unto the deepest sleep, or
rather unto death itself) p rvades everything; not even
THE DEAD SEA. 291
a ripple rolls its gentle swell over the loamy shore. It
is a wild, mysterious, silent picture of solitude, the
most undisputed, and the very greatest that ever reigned
anywhere under the sun.
The Dead Sea, on many accounts, is the most interest-
ing sheet of water in the world. I regret that I cannot
enter into this subject at length, or as fully as I would
wish. My remarks will necessarily be short. There
must have been a lake here, or something resembling the
present Dead Sea, as far back as four thousand years ago,
when Lot looked down from Bethel, and " beheld all the
plain of Jordan, and it was well watered everywhere, be-
fore the Lord destroyed Sodom and Gomorrah, even as
the garden of the Lord, like the land of Egypt, as thou
comest unto Zoar." Thus we read in Genesis xiii. 10.
This and other allusions lead us to infer that there existed
at that time a lake in this same place, of course much
smaller than the present Dead Sea, inasmuch as there
was much fertile land left here. It was here that the
" cities of the plain" did much toward the progress of
civilization. Sodom, Gomorrah, Admah, &c, were here
built ; and here Phoenician enterprise had its first seat.
The physical history of the Dead Sea is as interesting
as the historical notices, but I have not time to enter into
any detail. Lieut. Lynch and his party have done much
toward giving a thorough survey of the Dead Sea ; and
Dr. Anderson, connected with that expedition, has given
the most complete report extant, relative to the geolo-
gical structure of the seashores, and of the mountain
ranges bordering on it. From his report we learn that
292 III E DEAD SKA.
much limestone, some nitrous encrustations, some puw
sulphur, considerable quantities of post-tertiary lava,
pumice-stone, and volcanic slag are t<> be found. The
Dead Sea was called by the ancients Asphaltites Lake, and
ii i^ known among the Arabs as BaAr /,/'/, or «Sfea 0/ £otf.
By-the-by, we made inquiries for the "pillar of salt,"
once Lot's unfortunate wife ; but [brahim knew nothing
of its locality, ami was Bufficientl) honest to confess it.
Lieut. Lynch refers to it; and Josephus remarks that it
was standing, ami that he had seen it, at the time of writ-
ing his "Antiquities." This was A.D. 93. He is sup-
ported by Clement of Rome, who was contemporary with
the Jewish historian. De Saulcy, however, the French
explorer, does not helieve in its present existence at all,
and Laughs at the ••silly idea." as he expresses it.
The length of this curious sheet is forty miles; its ex-
treme breadth eight and a half, or more generally five
miles. The northern section is much deeper; some
places are remarkable for their depth, while others are
equally shallow. I might remark here that Strabo gives
us the circumference of the sea as one hundred and four-
teen miles; breadth, twenty-eight; Josephus states it to
be sixty-six miles in length, and seventeen and a quarter
broad: Lynch, forty-six in length, and nine and a half
broad. J have adopted the estimate of Dr. Porter; I
think it nearer correct than the others.
No living creatures, it is said, inhabit these still myste-
rious waters; and. like the tradition of the classic
Avernus, it is asserted no bird can flyover its sheet of
"dreamy desolation" without meeting with certain death.
THE DEAD SEA. 293
The saline particles in the Dead Sea amount to 26 1 per
cent., and of course has. a specific gravity one-fifth greater
than the ocean, the salt of which is only 4 per cent. A
human body cannot sink in it ; we well tested this great
buoyancy of the waters. The most acrid, bitter, nauseous
taste I ever experienced was when I, for experiment's
sake, took in a mouthful of the sea-water and accidentally
swallowed it. I feel the effects now. One of our party
complained considerably of an intolerable itching of the
skin after the bath.
The fact of a bituminous substance having been noticed
along the shores, and very often on the surface of the
Dead Sea, has caused some to think that it was b}^ the
ignition of this inflammable material that the guilty cities
were fired. Others even think that the houses of Sodom
and Gomorrah were made of asphaltum, and by this
means the fire was kept vigorously alive and in a rapid
and fearful march. The undoubted appearance of bitu-
men, and the remarkable saline impregnation noticed
above, are remarkable features indeed of the Dead Sea.
It was known that the sea was salt as far back as 148
years b. c. — granting, of course, Genesis to have been
written by Moses between the time of the departure of
the children of Israel, and the time of the defeat of the
Amorites by Moses.
In regard to the locality of the destroyed Sodom, it
may be wrell, in passing, to mention that M. de Saulcy
has discovered its veritable remains, and on a part of the
Dead Sea coast, some distance from where we were to-day.
He indulged Ids fancy, however, and that was all. The
29 1 Til 1 DE \ !> SEA.
must knowing writers and Learned explorers of the
llolv Land give it as their opinion that the wicked nt\
or its ruin Lies buried beneath the still waters of this
sad sea.
1 think with inanv others concerning the formation of
the Dead Sea — thai it is nothing more nor less than a
grand geological phenomenon, and that the enormous
gorge, in a pari of which rest- the .-till sea, has been the
gradual work of ages. 1 believe the same valley existed
here 4000 years ago — 1 mean as respects physical fea-
ture: and has undergone in that space the changes of
nature. The whole plain of Jericho measures about
seventy square miles. It is interesting to know that not
far from the spot we stood to-day, is Idumea, or Edom,
where dwelt the hairy Esau.
Bow different now is the dull, desolate appearance of
this deep gorge, in which lies wrapt, as it were, in never-
waking slumber, the Dead Sea. from the view presented
in time long agone by the fertile fields and rich pastures
which then -raced the land of the enterprising Phoeni-
cians; for none deny that this was the first seat of that
ly people, so skilled in all that makes a nation excel-
lent. This now barren spot was, undoubtedly, 4000 years
ago, tin- very warden of the world — its Eden in all its
bness. Alas, now !
A line summary of the Dead Sea may be had in the
following -iir.de paragraph : —
•■The Dead Sea is. whether considered physically or
historically, tic mosl remarkable sheet of water in the
world. It lies in the lowest pari of that deep ravine
THE DEAD SEA. 295
which extends from the base of Hermon to the Gulf of
'Akabah. A section of the ravine, more than 140 miles
in length, is beloiv the level of the sea, and the depression
of the surface of the Dead Sea amounts to no less than
1312 feet. A single glance at the features of this region
is sufficient to show that the cavity of the Dead Sea was
coeval in its conformation with the Jordan Valley on the
north, and the 'Arabah on the south. The breadth of
the whole valley is pretty uniform, only contracting a
little to the south of the Lake of Tiberias, and expanding
somewhat at Jericho; the mountains on each side thus
run in nearly parallel lines from Hermon to 'Akabah.
The Dead Sea, therefore, occupies a section of the great
valley which only differs from the rest in being deeper
and covered with water. On the east and west it is shut
in by lofty cliffs of bare white or gray limestone, dipping
in many places into its bosom without leaving even a
footpath along the shore. Its length is forty miles, and
its greatest breadth, eight and a half, narrowing to five
at the northern extremity. Near its south-east angle,
opposite the ravine of Kerak, is a broad, low promontory,
with a long point or cape stretching more than five miles
northward up the centre of the sea. And it is worthy
of special notice that the whole section of the sea north
of this promontory is of great depth, varying from forty
to two hundred and eighteen fathoms; and in some places
the soundings show upwards of one hundred and eighteen
fathoms within a few yards of the eastern cliffs. The
southern section, on the other hand, is quite shallow ;
M B OF MOSES.
never more than from two to three fathoms, and generally
onh about as 1 1 1 ; 1 1 1 \ feet."
r lingering a long time, despite the sweltering rays
that showered down upon us. we filled our sacks with
pebbles, as mementoes, and slowly took our way from the
shores of this desolate Bea. Our route toward the "CH3
of the Great King" was different from the one we pursued
yesterday in going to Jordan; it led directly over the
mountains. And. ah 1 what' a tedious body-and-soul-
racking ride it was! It was indeed far worse than the
ride from Ramleh, on the Plain of Sharon, to Jerusalem.
Op and down we went all the time. .More than once, as
Bkirting the summit of some lofty crag, on a narrow ^oat-
path. I feared my horse would .stumble and send me
headlong down the frowning precipice into the fearful
chasm which yawned around us. But we surmounted
all difficulties safely, and had every reason to be thankful.
We stopped only once, and that at a Muslim Wely, called
Neby Musa (Tomb of Moses), on the summit of a rough,
flinty, dreary-looking mountain. The followers of Ma-
homet believe that Moses is here buried; although it is
far from being a " valley" — and many pilgrims, despite
the tedious journey, and the wild stony way, often repair
thither to pay their orisons at the shrine of the prophet —
the Israelitish Lawgiver. It is a bleak, barren place, and
the winds of winter must whistle a lonesome ditty around
those cold gray walls. All Christians are here debarred
entrance, and bo we dined in the gloomy shadow of the
( onvent. We saw a few hooded heads peep at us.
over the ramparts, a- we came up at a sweeping canter
MAR SABA. 297
a I' AmSricain, but the curiosity of the monks was short-
lived— they soon disappeared, leaving the old walls more
desolate and lonesome than ever.
We had entertained serious intentions of visiting, before
our return to the Holy City, the world-renowned, rock-
defended Convent of Mar Saba. But it was quite plain
that for some reason our hitherto polite and exceedingly
attentive Ibrahim did not wish us to turn our horses'
heads in that direction. He hinted at the danger attend-
ant on such an expedition, and spoke openly of the
miserable, stony way, dignified by the name of path, over
which we would have to pass — and of the cold manner,
and certain rebuff, to be expected from the worthy
brethren inhabiting the wild and romanticallv situated
convent — in the still wilder glen of Mar Saba. So we
did not go. Ibrahim's conduct was very singular ; I
wished much to make the exj)edition and return by
Bethlehem, as Porter recommends. Of all the places in
the Holy Land worthy of a visit, Mar Saba and Ma-
sada present to the tourist the greatest attractions.
Mar Saba was founded in 439, by St. Sabas, a most
worthy anchorite from Cappadocia. The good monk
could not have chosen a place more fitting his aim —
sacred and solemn seclusion. Clustered in small terraces
high up the mountain, and built on the very edge of pre-
cipices,— clinging in many places to the ragged cliffs,
Mar Saba presents the very picture of romantic quiet.
" The toute ensemble is picturesque and singularly wild,
especially when we view it in the pale moonlight ; when
the projecting cliffs and towers are tinged with the silver
3
M \ R S \ BA.
light, while the intervening spaces and the deep chasms
below are shrouded in gloom." The Convenl passed
through many trials and dangers during the Holy Wars.
and was before this plundered by the Persians, when sonic
of its monks were killed, [hrahim tells us that even
now, the monks, while they do not live in daily terror as in
times by-gone of the Bedaween, yel they are constantly
on the alert for them, and allow noi a member of thai
roving tribe to darken their large portal. Mar Saba is
the richest convent in Palestine, or one among the rich-
est,— and its treasures often tempt the stealthy "to break
through and steal" — an impossibility, we might say. 1
shall always regret that 1 did not visit the romantic
place, and Ibrahim shall ever be blamed for cheating me
of that pleasure.
Masada has been not unfrequently taken by the gene-
ral reader, for Mar Sdba, and vice versa. Each has a
deeply romantic history, it is true, and each is favored
with more than ordinary grandeur of scenery, and wild-
ness of situation — a grandeur seldom equalled and never
surpassed; yet other than in this respect, the two places
ise to be similar. Masada is ante-Christ in origin,
dating hack full two hundred years before the Christian
era: but for many long years it has lain buried beneath
the debris of a sunken ruin and despised country. It
was 1 for the indefatigable explorer Dr. Robinson,
.-one- years since, to revive and identify it. The remains
of the fortress are situated on the western coast of the
I) - i. on a cliff high up a bold mountain, twelve or
fifteen bundled feet in height. From this eminence a
MASADA. 299
grand and lovely view can be obtained far over the Moab
Mountains, the Dead Sea, and the " Wilderness of Judea."
It is said that there are very decided remains yet left, to
tell of the former grandeur of the pile here existing.
The spot by nature is just as inaccessible, and as well
protected as Mar Saba, if not better. On the side next
the sea, the rock on which the fortress is erected, rises
nearly seven hundred feet, almost perpendicularly, and
in other places " where the ascent is more gradual, access
to the summit is cut off by„belts of naked cliff from
twenty to one hundred feet high." The remains of the
church, of several towers, and of one or two large
cisterns, are in a fine state of preservation, and, strange to
say, are quite modern in appearance. The chief circum-
stance, however, which renders these ruins interesting to
the tourist, is the sad tale of the dark and damning tra-
gedy connected with the old gray walls which yet remain
to tell it, — a tale, the bloodiest in the " book of time."
The following is a brief epitome of the mournful story,
which is revived again in the breasts of all, as the name
of Masada falls on the ear.
About the time that Titus was laying his plans for
the siege of Rome, possession of Masada was taken by
the sect or band of desperate Jews called Sicarii. These
people, driven to despair by the misfortunes which had
overtaken their unfortunate land, and by the avaricious
encroachments of the grasping Romans, fought at every
opportunity with the energy and ferocity of a forlorn
cause. Along with Masada they had garrisoned several
other strong fortresses, but these others, one by one, had
300 M ISADA.
been taken from them, and now the Roman general,
Flavius Sylva, pitched his tents before Masada, the last
stronghold of the Sicarii. His attack was not long with-
held, but it was successfully repelled. Various were the
fortunes of the two contending forces, for several days.
Finally a strong arm from the Roman ranks hurled a fire-
brand with accurate aim; the wooden fortifications which
the Sicarii had erected, took fire, and a fierce wind
favoring the flames, they wore consumed. The Ro-
mans had now an advantage, which they determined to
follow up. The entire number of human beings within
the fortress, including women and children, amounted to
nine hundred and sixty-seven. They had now no hope
of victory, and no hope of life. What was to be done?
They would not yield, to fall unresisting victims to the
Roman soldiery — this were to meet a far worse fate.
They had no time for deliberation. The morrow's sun
heralded their doom — their death! They met in solemn
conclave, and it was proposed by the stern and intrepid
Eleazar, the leader of the besieged, that, sooner than sub-
mit to the enemy, each man should yield up his lift and
that of his "■>'/< and babe! It was a startling proposition,
and at first, from the very horror it awakened, it was
voted down unanimously. But the stern Eleazar was
not bo easily baffled ; he appealed in touching terms to
the ruined and disastrous condition of their beloved
country, and then to his soldiers themselves — as freemen!
The chord vibrated through cxi'vx breast, and the bloody
conquest was won. " They convulsively embraced their
wives and children. — for a moment lavished on them
RETURN TO JERUSALEM. 301
every form, every term of endearment, and then plunged
their swords into their hearts. This scene of carnage
finished, they heaped up all the treasures of the fortress
in one enormous pile, and burned them to ashes. Ten of
their number were next chosen by lot to kill the rest.
The victims calmly laid themselves down, each beside his
fallen wife and children, and, clasping their corpses in
his arms, presented his throat to the executioner. The
remaining ten now drew lots for one, who, after killing
his companions, should destroy himself. The nine were
slain, and he who stood singly and last, having inspected
the prostrate multitude, to see that not one breathed,
fired the palace, drove his sword through his body, and
fell dead beside his family !"
But heigho ! how time flies ! Twelve o'clock is past,
and the gloomy midnight settles over me, as I pore over
my Journal; yet I need sleep very much, and must
now, with a few more words, lay aside these rudely-writ-
ten leaves.
Again we resumed our tedious journey, Sahlimah si-
lently leading the way. We finally drew near the valley,
once more, between the Moab Mountains; and at this
place, passed the goat-skin tents of Sahlimah's tribe,
" black," as in the days of Solomon. Here our good
sheikh resigned his guardian-protection of us; and, pro-
mising to call on us in Jerusalem, without fail, in a day or
two, for — bakhshish, he went to join his clan. Late in the
afternoon, just before the city entrances were closed, we
slowly rode through the Jaffa Gate, and in a few moments
more were safely within the walls of the " City of the
Foundation of Peace."
CHAPTER XIV.
Prussian Hospice, Jenimi/em. i
Saturday. March L2th, 1859. j
r' HIS day has been spent most pleasantly and profit-
I ably. I hope by me, although I commenced tin
tweuty-(our hours in not a very commendatory
manner; that is. by sleeping until nine o'clock.
But after a hard day's work, it is but natural that slum-
ber should close very securely one's eyelids, and that the
bed should be such a dear companion, from whom to part
one is exceeding loth. So to-day my morning nap ex-
tended to several hours beyond the sunrise.
This day we had determined to make an expedition to
far-famed and <ver-to-be-remembered Beit-Lahm, or Beth-
lehem of Judea. At half past ten o'clock, under the
excellent guidance of Mr. Theil, our landlord, who had
kindly consented to acl as dragoman for us, we galloped
out of the Jaffa (!ate, and left the city in good spirits,
with our minds filled with sacred glow, as we thought
of the pleasure so soon to be ours, of seeing that town,
"little among the thousands of Judah." We purposely
took the long route, in order to see the country tho-
roughly, as the Dearer way is by the road leading from
St. Stephen's Gate.
(302)
TREE OF JUDAS. 303
Just out of Jerusalem, on our immediate route, we saw
the so-called tree of Judas. It is traditionally reported,
that, on a straight limb growing at right angles to the
stock of the tree, the betrayer hung himself. The tree
bears marks of considerable age, but whether or not
it can injustice claim the honor of having, eighteen hun-
dred years ago, suspended Judas " 'tween heaven and
earth," I cannot pretend to say. On the apex of this hill,
near which stands the tree of Judas, Mr. Theil informed
us tradition placed the ancient site of a country house of
the High Priest, Caiaphas, who figured so extensively in
the bloody scenes of the conviction and crucifixion.
Quite true it is, that I saw some ruins there — some old
and badly-burnt bricks, and several loose blocks of granite
lying around ; but this debris may be seen anywhere, al-
most, in Palestine, and does not by any means prove, or
even go to show, that Caiaphas once dwelt here. Right
glad would I be to think so.
After a ride of a quarter of an hour, along a smooth,
easy way, we came to an old well on the very edge of the
road, or path more properly called. With this well is
connected a tradition yet more sacred than that attached
to the innocent tree behind us. It is said, and with all
solemnity, that when the Magi were treading that uncer-
tain way in quest of the resting-place of the new-born
Prince of the House of David, they came to this well to
quench their thirst. The greatest doubt hung over their
minds, and clogged their actions, as to whether they were
pursuing the proper course. While in this state of mind,
and as one leaned over to draw water from the well, what
304 CONVENT OP M A R ELI AS.
was his Btirprise bo see, beautifully reflected in the clear
depths of tln> water, thai brighl guidipgstar which had
led him and his compauions thus far! Bv following its
further guidance, they came to the "City of David."
Another object of interest to us to-day, on our road,
was the Convenl of Mar Elias, a large, massive-looking,
well-protected building; deriving its name from the fact
that Elias once abode here, or once reposed here from his
flight from Jezebel, I cannot rightly learn which. One
tradition is as good as the other, for a foundation. It is
a \er\ beautiful, refreshing-looking place; and had it
suited the pleasure of the reverend monks inhabiting the
convent. I would have liked much to have lingered there
inside the walls for several hours.
In a half-hour's easy riding from the Convent of Elias.
we reached one of the most interesting spots that I have
visited since I have been in the Holy Land, interesting
because there can be no doubt as to the genuineness and
validity of the sacred location; I refer to the tomb of
Rachel. The small white s([iiare tower with its dome is
quite modern; but that this is the place where Rachel
died and was buried on the way to Ephrata, " which is
Bethlehem," there can be little or no doubt. In Moses'
tine the monument set over the grave of the beloved wife
was standing, but that has long since been carried away.
All agree that this is the spot where the good mother of
[srael died and was buried; all concur in honoring the place,
and in keeping it from falling into decay and neglect.
We lingered some time at Rachel's Tomb, and then
slowly mo\ ed on our way.
CHURCH OF THE NATIVITY. 305
At last we climbed the high hill on which Bethlehem
is situated, and passing slowly along the terraces, through
rich groves of olive trees, we entered the city of the
Saviour's nativity. It was with doubly solemn feelings
that I rode into that sacred village. It was here that the
Virgin came with Joseph from Galilee, out of a city called
Nazareth, to pay tithes ; it was here Immanuel, the God-
begotten Son, was born ; it was in 3011 valley the star
appeared to the shepherds ; it was here the Angel of the
Lord proclaimed "tidings of great joy, peace on earth,
good-will to men ;" and it was here that the Sages of the
East came to place treasures, gifts of frankincense and
myrrh and spices, at the feet of Jesus, the stable-cradled
King of the Jews ! Of all this, and far more, I thought,
and I could scarcely believe that I stood in " Bethlehem
of Judea."
As we entered the place, we dismounted, under Mr.
Theil's guidance, at the house of a poor German, who lives
here, for what purpose I am sure I cannot tell. We
next proceeded through the narrow streets, up the town,
until we reached a large open plaza of ground. At the
further end of this, loomed up the massive bulk of the
Church of the Nativity, under the wings and roof of which
are gathered Latins, Greeks, and Armenians — each having
their respective convents. We were much besieged at
this point on our way by venders of souvenirs, such as
pearl shells, rudely engraved with scriptural designs, olive-
wood ornaments, and beads of sandal and mecca-wood.
We ran the gauntlet safely, and, with Mr. Theil at our head,
we reached the convent, and knocked lustily at the
20
306 OHURCH OF nil-: NATIVITY.
Latin gate. After a worthy perseverance and niueli
banging on the pari of Mr. Theil, our good extempore
dragoman, we gained access, and were received very politely
by a Latin priest, who. smiling one of his sober smiles.
Conducted US into the presence of another sleek-looking
brother, who good-naturedly took us in charge. Our
Swiss friend, Esslinger, made known to him in Italian
our desire — and forthwith we proceeded to see the holy
plat
This church, we are told, stands over the site of the old
stable in which the Saviour of mankind wras horn — there-
fore in order to see the holiest of the holies here, we must
provide ourselves with torches, for that which we wish to
is under ground. After descending a narrow staircase,
fifteen or twenty feet in length, we came to a long low
chamber or vault. In this vault is an altar, erected to
the Children of Bethlehem, slain by Herod's cruel edict
of wholesale murder. It is said, under this altar are
buried twenty thousand children; though, with all due
credence to what they tell, I must say the space is small,
or the children were very small. We were next shown the
place where St. Jerome spent a greater portion of his
arduous student-life. In this little cell we see a fair
portrait of the saint. There is no reasonable doubt but
that St. Jerome did make this place or its whereabouts
his abode for many years; that the monks have added
and exaggerated, also, then.' can be no doubt. We how-
i receive the good and bad, and carefully, if possible,
winnow one from the oth^r, a task often found to be
extremely difficult.
PLACE OF THE SAVIOUR'S BIRTH. 307
Near this place we were shown the Chapel of Joseph,
so called because here the recognised husband of Mary
stood at the moment of the birth of the Saviour. And
finally we saw the most interesting spot of all — the very
spot of the Saviour's birth! Several silver lamps, kept
constantly burning, shed a sickly light over the place, and
revealed to our gaze a large silver star, set in the hard
stone, and around it these words, which are very dis-
tinct : — " Hie de Virgvne Maria, Jesus Christus natus est."
This, then, is the very spot of the nativity of the Son of
God. What holy emotions should throng one's bosom as
his gaze takes in at a glance the place from which has
emanated that Christian spark which has shed its lustre
to the farthest limits of the world ! Almost in front of
this star is a stone trough, which stands in the place
where once rested the veritable manger. The genuine
manger, they say, is, I think, in the Church of Santa
Maria Maggiore, or in St, John de Lateran, at Rome.
We were also shown a portion of the stable, which remains
in situ to this da}' ! This makes quite a catalogue of holy
places, and, in writing them down without comment as to
their validity or not, many wise ones (?) there are, who,
should they chance to see these leaves, would deem me
silly, to say the least, for recording them ; and yet more
so, if I hinted a disposition on my part to believe all of
these " monkish legends." Many there are — especially those
at a great distance from this land which I now tread —
who, I am confident, would not credit any of these things
of which I have written above. I have known them to
laugh incredulously at such recitals, and term them
108 B i: I ii r i N HOLT LOC A L i T l ES.
jocosely, " tough yarns;" some even go so far as to Baj it
was all humbug, and imf worthy a fdtitntnl maw's credenct .'
Verj well; such persons onlj advertise in scarlet Letters
their own ignorance, and dig for themselves their own
grave — a proper epitaph of each of whom should be
•■ Here lies an Ignoramus." Why should we believe — to
pursue this a Little further — that, eighteen hundred years
ago, a certain man. calling himself Jesus Christ, did
change water into wine, did cast out devils, and did feed
1 1 1 ; 1 1 1 \ thousands from a few small fish, and a still less
number of loaves? And why not believe thai this is
the spot where He first saw the light of life — that in this
place also is located the burial lots of the slaughtered
first-born? Once on a time, both of the above facts, it is
said, occurred. One is — search the question as we may —
as worthy of credence as the other. For my part, believ-
ing in Holy Writ, as I do, I also believe in the identity
and genuineness of the most of those localities. Let us
remember that it is just a little over eighteen hundred
years ago that those events of religions history transpired,
and yel we have in some instances records kept of objects
of wonder dating their identit) and validity back to a
period long prior to the Christian era. For instance — a
familiar example — the monuments of Luxor — the mono-
lith obelisks, which " wise men/' and interpreters of
hieroglyphics, aver, were erected by good Sesostris of
Egypt fifteen hundi'ed years before Christ; or Cleopatra's
Net lie at Alexandria, which was erected sixteen hundred
re Christ! In other word-, 1 believe jusl as
much that I saw the place where once the manger, in
BETHLEHEM. 309
which Christ was cradled, stood, as that I was in Bethle-
hem at all. Many may laugh at this ; yet I know there
are some, at least, who agree with me. Of course there
are some things — some strange, wild, heathenish legends
told us — which it would be folly to credit ; nor do I mean
such in the admission or assertion above. My feelings,
since I have been in Terra Santa, are directly the reverse
of those of some of our party as regards belief in holy
localities — too exuberant and too confiding.
Next to Jerusalem, Bethlehem is the most interesting
spot in the Holy Land. It has been made famous and
sacred by two characters only, even if none other threw
interesting associations over the village — Jesus Christ and
King David. Once in those far times it was held by the
Philistines, and it was then that David longed for the
water from a certain wrell near hy, and which three of his
" strong men" obtained for him at great risk. The well
let me remark, was shown to us, though it is situated too
far from the town to be genuine.
The biblical, touching story of Ruth, of the Moab tribe,
who so affectionately clung to her mother-in-law, Naomi,
is sufficient to endear Bethlehem to our hearts ; and as
we stand on the high ramparts of the Church of the Na-
tivity and read the story of affection, while the fields of
Boaz, in which Ruth gleaned, lie just before us, the recital
has a double pathos, and a quadruple interest. From this
terrace also, we can see the region where David kept his
father's flocks ; and it was in the valley to our left that
the shepherds reposed when " the glory of the Lord shone
round about them."
310 WOMEN OF B l in II n KM.
Bethlehem is said to contain some thirty-three hundred
souls, all of whom are generally considered Christians, as
it is said they are — the present inhabitants — nil descended
from the Crusaders. That Mohammedans, however, are
in the town. 1 am thoroughly convinced. The entire
population Beems to be a low, miserable set ; but claiming
this signal advantage over everj other town in Syria and
Palestine — they are honest.
The word Bethlehem means Houst of Bread, and Beit-
Lahm, the present Arabic name, means House of Meat or
Flesh. Besides this •• Bethlehem of Judea," the ■•one" so
"little" among the nations of earth — there is another,
some ninety miles distant, which is referred to in Josh,
xix. L5, in regard to the possessions of the tribe of
Simeon. But with it there is connected nothing of
special interest.
Before I visited the town. I had heard much of Beth-
lehemite women, and their extraordinary beauty; but I
must confess I was not struck with the fair sex which I
saw sauntering along the miserable streets. I am quite
sure that far handsomer -iris can be ^-cn any day on
Broadway or Chestnut Street, than you can find by
diligent searching, for a month, in Bethlehem. 1 saw
only a few in the little town, however, and. besides, as
"plumage makes the bird," our girls after all may be
nothing more than "fuss and feathers." The virtue of
Bethlehemite women has been extolled too, with what
of truth 1 cannot say. The following incident, which I
, |p, in Poller, as coming from the Abbe Geramh,
well shows what hare suspicion even, will produce in
A TRAGEDY. 311
Bethlehem, and how dreadfully vengeance is meted on
the guilty party : —
" Some years ago a Mohammedan of Bethlehem was
accidentally found in one of the neighboring grottos,
and, unfortunately, the young widow of a Catholic Beth-
lehemite was found there too. Those who discovered
them at once spread the news through the village, and
the Mohammedan took to flight. The young woman,
alarmed at the uproar, had just time to seek refuge in
the Latin Convent as her relatives came upon her; but
having discovered her retreat, they rushed to the spot.
The door was locked, and though of iron, it soon yielded
to their fury. The excited crowd rushed in, and the
unhappy victim was now face to face with those bent on
sacrificing her. In vain the monks formed a rampart
around her with their bodies ; in vain they extended
their supplicating hands towards the infuriated crowd ;
in vain they besought them, in the name of the merciful
Saviour, who was born but a few paces off, not to spill
the blood of an unfortunate fellow-creature whose guilt
was not proved ; in vain some of them threw themselves
at the feet of the multitude, while others strove to repel
them by force. The monks were driven aside, and the
young woman dragged to the area in front of the convent.
Here a scene was enacted the very thought of which
causes one to shudder with horror. Surrounded by her
executioners, the helpless creature cried aloud for mercy.
She entreated to be heard for a few moments ; she assured
them she could prove her innocence. Her father, her
brothers, her relatives, were all there ; but none would
112 DAVID AND ORPHEUS.
Listen to her tale. She appealed to their sense of justice,
in fraternal affection, to paternal love; bul all in vain,
and she sank fainting to the ground. She awoke again
to consciousness ; luit it was only when the death-stroke
was given. She opened her eyes; but it was only
her brothers, in imitation of the terrible example
of her father, steeping their hands in her blood, and
holding them up to the people to show that they had
washed away the stain from their name! The still pal-
pitating corpse was cut to pieces by the mob, and left
exposed during the remainder of the day."
At this place I might record (as 1 have lately read)
a striking resemblance, traced by a clever hand, between
David who watched his sheep near Bethlehem, and the
musician. Orpheus. Let me here remark that for over
five hundred years before Christ, music was made use of
to allay madness — I mean to say that we have accounts
of its having been so employed, given us by profane his-
torians. I give the entire ([notation as regards the simi-
larity between David and Orpheus.
••lie (referring to Orpheus) was most skilful on the
lyre. So was David. Photius says be was a king. So
was David. The g sneral notion had been that he was a
Thracian; but Pausanias says that the ancient Greek
pictures represented him in Greek dress, and that he had
nothing Thracian about him; in another place one
Egyptian, whose name is net given, declared he was an
E yptian. And the fact that Orpheus was represented
i ring the tiara on his head, show- that he was an
Arabic prince. T'mrn is probably of Hebrew origin, and
Solomon's pools. 313
in the Scriptures it will be found to signify just such a
crown as David took from the Ammonite king's head, and
placed it on his own, at one of the most celebrated battles
during his reign, with the nations beyond Jordan. The
traditions of the Arabs is that stones and birds were dedi-
cated to him, but he could not reclaim the Arabs. So
Orpheus made the rocks, woods, and animals follow him,
but could not civilize the Thracians. Orpheus charmed
Pluto, the King of the Infernal Regions, and thereby
obtained his wife. David pleased Saul, whose name in
Hebrew, when pointed differently (though radically the
same), means King of Infernal Regions. He, too, de-
tained David's wife, and afterwards gave her to him."
How much the above is really worth may be a question
of controversy, but that it shows an interesting similarity
between the two characters mentioned, there can be no
doubt.
After making numerous purchases from the uncouth,
half-naked inhabitants, Montag, Esslinger, and myself,
accompanied by our good Moukary, Hassan, who went
with us to the town, set off on our return to Jerusalem.
Mr. S — tt, with Mr. Theil as guide, went to Solomon's
Pools, only a short distance beyond Bethlehem. We
would have all gone, but the prospects of a speedy and
heavy rain deterred us. Nothing, however, could deter
our indefatigable friend, who does not believe in j^ostpon-
ing till to-morrow, what can be done to-day.
These pools, or, as the Arabs call them, El-Burdh,
which means the tanks, are situated in a deep rocky val-
ley. They are three in number ; and the peculiar manner
3] I SOLOMON *S POO] 3.
of the fashioning of the stones — tin bevelled edge — places
them indisputably to a very early age. We have no
record of the pools in the Bible, bul thai they date many
years prior to the Christian era. there can be no question.
Tin- tanks arc parth hewn in the living rock, which
forms the cradle o[' the valley, and in pari are of solid
masonry, well cemented, and indicative of a workman-
ship by no means inferior to that of our modern day.
There is every reason to believe that the Temple, long
years ago, was supplied from these reservoirs with water.
The tanks are supplied by a subterranean stream from
one dt' the neighboring fields. Porter gives the following
as the dimensions of the reservoirs: —
Upper Pool.
Length 380 feet.
Depth, East End 25 "
Breadth, East End 236 "
West End 229 "
Middle Pool.
Distance from Upper Pool ........ 160 feet.
Length 423 "
Depth, East End 39 "
1. -.-• End 226 "
West End 229 "
Lower Pool.
m Middle Pool . . . . . . . 248 feet.
gth 582 "
Depth, East End 50 "
Breadth, Bast End 207 "
West End 148 "
I hope to make a visit to these pool- shortly, and shall
CASA NUOVA. 315
devote at least half a day to their inspection. Such,
then, was the (worthy) object of Mr. S — tt's farther visit,
while Esslinger, Montag, Hassan, and myself started back
to Jerusalem. S. lingered yet awhile in Bethlehem, in
order to make a few more purchases from the Arabs of
olive-wood, napkin rings, pearl shells, &c.
We came back very briskly, and, by taking a shorter
route, we reached Jerusalem in one hour. We had much
fun at Hassan and his little donkey. Hassan rides with
singular ease and grace; first sitting astride, then side-
ways, like a fashionable belle at a riding-school — all the
time the little donkey keeping up its short, nervous, and
delightful canter.
On reaching the Jaffa Gate in the city, we dismounted
and went to the Casa Nuova (Latin convent, or hostelry),
to look at some pearl shells which we understood were for
sale here. Much to Esslinger's disgust and chagrin, how-
ever, the old Superior was not in, and without his permis-
sion we could obtain nothing. We then proceeded to
our quarters, which I was glad enough to reach — as the
excessive exercise and consequent fatigue I have under-
gone for the last two days have incapacitated me for
active duty for twenty-four hours to come at least.
S. returned in due season, and was, much to our
amusement, brimful of adventures. Still later, Messrs.
S — tt and Theil entered also. Mr. S — tt met with
Mr. J — b — sn and the English Consul near Solomon's
Wells, and returned with them. Through the Consul's
influence, the rest of the party got in the gates, as they
were closed at the time they returned. Mr. S — tt took
316 APPROACHING DEPARTURE.
tea with Mr Finn, the Consul, whom he describes as
being a most polite, hospitable, and erudite gentleman.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem. ]
Sunday, March L3th, L859. I
This, another Sabbath day, 1 have spent in the city of
tin* Lord, and at its close I heave a sigh ofregret,for this
is the last day of rest I shall sec within the sacred walls
of Jerusalem ! The time has flown by with a singular and
noticeable rapidity since we reached the city ; scarcely
can I tell how it has none, and how been occupied.
Gladly would we linger longer amid these delightful
scenes, rendered so dear by the sacred associations which
cluster around every building — every mountain — every
valley — every twig — tree and stone. But our engage-
ments call us elsewhere, and we must hasten our depart-
ure hence. As it is. after we arrive in Jaffa, the chances
that we can embark are dubious, for a severe storm has
been raging off the coast for several days, rendering it
almost impossible for steamers to land. If we can get
aboard the steamer going >/j> the coast, we will embark
and go as far as Beirut: at that place it is very certain
we can take another steamer for Alexandria, whither we
ultimately bound.
I have been quite unwell throughout the day; I man-
l, however, to write several letters home. And thus
passed the day. I wished to attend church at Dr.
Barclay's, but was too much indisposed to go. Montag
and Esslinger, in the enthusiasm of the moment, went
ii to Bethlehem, and returned fuller than ever with
OUR PLANS. 317
startling adventures. Mr. S — tt preached, I believe, at
Dr. Barclay's, to-day. I was real sorry that I could not
hear him. Ibrahim applied to me to-night for a recom-
mendation ; I gave it to him cheerfully. He has engaged
another party (Americans) for Jordan and Jericho. I
am glad he meets with such custom. I thought I saw a
young Miss B., of New York, to-day, walking Christian
Street with a gentleman, whom I took to be her father.
Miss B. was a fellow-passenger with me in the Vanderbilt,
last May, to Havre. I may be mistaken, however.
We have now all of us finally determined, after much
argument pro and con, to leave the city of Eternal Peace,
day after to-morrow, for Jaffa. All of our original party
will leave together, with the exception of our good friend
John Montag, to whom all of us have formed a strong
attachment. The good " Huzzar" lingers to fulfil his
vows, of which I have spoken in a previous day's Jour-
nal. Meinherr speaks of our coming parting with tears
in his eyes. I am sorry to say good-bye to him, for when
that word is spoken, we will not exchange words again,
I am certain, this side of the Great Unknown. The old
fellow has promised us a story, which he will give us
to-morrow night, I imagine. I shall never forget the day
I saw Meinherr in the Museum in far away Naples.
If possible, should we go on to Beirut, we shall visit
Ba'albeck and Damascus. As yet, however, we cannot
determine on that decisively.
CHAPTER XV.
Prussian Hospice, Jerusalem
Monday, March 1 1th. L859
rill. "I
59. J
[IS has been, I think, my last day in Jerusalem ; to-
morrow morning at seven o'clock we leave the Jaffa
Gate. None of us will ever again see these sacred
walls; and when they are hid from our gaze to-mor-
row morningj they are undoubtedly hid for ever. How
many of us in this party will see the New Jerusalem, God
only knows — all. I trust. I have become very much at-
tached to the city already, despite its forbidding filth, and
low state of degenerating degradation of its God-forsaken
inhabitants. The power of association holds higher rule
in my bosom, and the disgusting features of the town are
lost in the sacred memories <>1* the past. But to-morrow
night my head will repose again on a monkish pillow at
Ramleh.
This morning, by invitation, we partook of a superb
Eastern breakfast with Mr. J — b — sn. We were treated
t<> several kind- of fruit, both fresh and preserved, and
to the most delicious wine I ever tasted — not excepting
the delicate Capri and Lachryma Christi of Italy, the
< reisenheimer of the Rhine, or the sparkling St. Julien of
Paris. The wine we drank this morning was made from
(318)
LAST VISITS. 319
the grapes that grew on Hebron, and the sacred feature
of the beverage may have lent an additional charm to its
flavor. To say the very least, it was most delicious.
Would that I could carry some with me — as a souvenir, —
not as a drink!
From the sumptuous board of our friend, we — Mr.
S — tt, S., and myself — took a leisurely walk about the
city, and viewed with melancholy interest, objects, to
which on to-morrow we bid adieu. I made the purchase
of an Arab gun-barrel, a long, cumbersome tube. I am
afraid it will be an unwieldy souvenir.
I made a final visit to old Bergheim, my banker, whom
I found in a very bad humor ; so much so, that he scarcely
treated me with ordinary respect or politeness. So much
for men and manners — both changeable as are the phases
of an April day — sunshine and shower are gloomily inter-
mingled.
According to previous agreement, we — Mr. S — tt, S.,
and myself — proceeded to the residence of Mr. Deniss.
That gentleman was to take our photographs together, in
some sacred spot, and thus add to our already heavy stock
of souvenirs. I am sorry to say that Esslinger and our
good friend the " Huzzar," declined entering into the agree-
ment, though they were loudest in praise of the proposi-
tion when first considered. Another instance of human
fickleness. We, however, were not so easily deterred. In
company with Mr. Deniss, whom we found awaiting us,
we proceeded at his suggestion to St. Stephen's gate,
thence to the sacred Garden of Gethsemane. From our
position on the high bluffs, just outside the gate, we had
320 VIS] I TO G Mr ii si: m \ n B.
a fine view of the beautiful slope of Mt. Scopus. This
mountain is but a continuation of the Mount of Olives.
We were pointed out the spot on Scopus, where, it is said,
Titus firsi caughl a glimpse of the city which he was so
Boon to overrun. We gol a good view here also of the
long straggling wall on this side of the city, which forms
the ramparts of the town. The entire circumference of
the city walls is about sixteen thousand feet.
We finally reached the locked and bolted door of the
Gardes of Gethsemane; hut here it seemed as if further
progress was denied. We heat and banged, and hallooed
until our hands and throats were sore from exertion.
Finally Deniss, by almost superhuman efforts, brought
some one to the opposite side of the gate, whither we
were so persistently endeavoring to get. A long parley,
held then between Deniss and the inside unseen, in some
heathenish dialect, resulted in the large gate slowly
moving hack. Revealed to our gaze, was a most miser-
able-appearing Latin priest, who, from the tattered con-
dition of his garb, and the haggard careworn expression
of his countenance, looked as if he might have been
doing penance all his life. lie was the custodian of the
sanctity of this sacred spot!
I cannot well describe the main' emotions of my mind
as I stood fairly within the limits of the divine enclosure,
and recollected that here once echoed the voice of Him in
agonizing prayer! This spot answers well to the brief
description we have of the Garden of Gethsemane, given
in the Bible. // was situated at the foot of Olivet, and
at some distance from the public thoroughfare, so it is
PHOTOGRAPH OF PARTY IN GETHSEMANE. 321
now. This then is a genuine holy place, a place so holy
that the most flinty-hearted cannot enter it without
feelings of awe and veneration, or without emotions akin
to them.
Inside the enclosure we saw a small, dirty, miserable
tenement and a well. Several large and venerable olives
stood around in gloomy dignity. They may possibly, in
their far distant youth, have witnessed the agony of Jesus.
Several beds of flowers, and a series of earthenware
plates (tacked to posts), on which were rudely painted
the different scenes in the Saviour's trial and crucifixion,
completed the list of objects to be seen. I have before
remarked in a former day's Journal, that the Latins have
possession of this Garden of Gethsemane. The Greeks
have made another, and in clue time, it will by them be
invested with all the holiness of the other.
This, then — the sacred Garden of Gethsemane — was
the spot chosen by Mr. Deniss, on which to take the view
of our party. A photograph of my humble self in the
sacred Garden of Gethsemane ! what a thought ! After
much trouble and several impertinent interruptions from
some Swedes, we were presented with a good negative
view of our party, with the noble branches of the aged
olives waving over us. We cannot get the pictures in
time to take with us to-morrow, but Deniss will arrange
the matter so that we can get them in Jaffa, on our re-
turn down the coast to Alexandria.
We returned home about the dinner hour, much pleased
with our morning's work. Dr. Gorham, our Consul, called,
on us in the afternoon, and sat an hour or so ; the re-
21
(HON l A (, S SECON D STOB V
mainder of our part}' going oil". 1 was lefl to entertain tin*
doctor, and I must Bay, 1 never enjoyed a more pleasant
time. He is Bomewhal different from what 1 first took
him, though not radically.
S. and myself purchased an old trunk to-day, simply
as a vehicle for our curiosity-gatherings, which will 1"'
much increased before we "finish up" Egypt. V\ <i
are all now gathered in the dining-room of the Bos-
pice. Mr. S — tt, S., and Esslinger, are busily engaged
in "packing up," S. performing that remarkably 'pleasant
duty as well for me, as for himself. Kind fellow!
Some one has just reminded Meinherr Montag, who
sits idly by watching our preparations for departure with
melancholy interest, that he promised us a story. The
last that Meinherr told, was listened to by S. and
myself only, and it was in the Malta Cross Hotel, in far-
away Valletta. The reader remembers it, I imagine.
Meinherr very reluctantly consents, and I translate
and record as he gives it to us. Esslinger is the general
interpreter. I will style Meinherr's story,
THE HAND ON THE WALL.
Between Bingen and Madinz, on the lordly Rhine,
Bituated in rugged grandeur, high on a beetling cliff, are,
to this day. the ruin- of a once magnificent and command-
ing castle. Like other old chateaux, which still in their
ruin frown down on the beautiful river rippling at their
montag's second story. 323
bases, this one in particular has a score of wild legends con-
nected with it, from which the following is selected : —
In the twelfth century Baron Konigsgrab owned this
chateau, which was then in all its pomp and power.
The baron was noted among his feudal neighbors for
being a very bad man ; many a dark deed he was com-
pelled, by rumor at least, to father. His heavy step
never sounded in the dark corridors, or on the high
terrace of his castle, but that it brought a chill of fear
to all within ear-shot. Many wives had blessed the
baron's nuptial bed — but one by one, at different times,
the}^ disappeared, and none within the dreary castle's
sombre wTalls could tell their fate. No issue had followed
marriage, save by the first wife; and that issue was a
doughty lad. At the time of the present legend, he was
an exile from home, endeavoring to win, with sword and
lance, a lasting fame. Why he was exiled none knew —
that he was an alien and an exile from his ancestral
halls, all knew. Many years had elapsed since, a mere
stripling, he had been driven forth to wander on the
charities of a world, then not more kind than now.
In the castle of Konigsgrab there was a chamber far
out on one of the eastern turrets, and many feet above
the dark moat which circled around the gloomy pile — a
chamber which, from the frequency of sights seen, and
still stranger sounds heard near it, had won the appella-
tion of Goblin Chamber. None within the walls of the
castle would go in the corridor where was located
the dreaded apartment, even at noonday. It was a
favorite mode of punishment with the baron, to cause his
324 montag's second stort.
trembling vassal to repair to the chamber, and there
remain until the morning, it was asserted thai main a
poor fellow, who had been consigned to this room, and
locked securely in for the night, was found in the morn-
ing quite dead, while tin- mark of a blood-red hand could
be seen imprinted on the forehead. The baron himself
dared not go alone to the chamber; and whenever In-
heard the name, though mentioned by himself, he would
{•ale and tremble Like the aspen-leaf. This was singular
too, for the apartment was the baron's bridal chamber!
Many a bold knight who, drunk with the strong wines
from Konigsgrab's well-covered tables, vauntingly demand-
ed the Goblin Chamber for his sleeping apartment — and
if so inebriated that he could not fly from the room, the
gallant cavalier would, on the morrow, be found stark in
death ; while the terrible blood-red hand, pressed on the
brow, told who had been the slayer. As a general thing,
however, the knight, howsoever drunk he was, soon be-
came sobered sufficiently to rush with pale face, starting-
exes, and palsied legs from the chamber, leaving his
valorous sword ingloriously behind him. At such times
— the occupation of the chamber from compulsion or
otherwise — the elements soon waxed into a state of
demoniac wrath — winds howled down the rugged moun-
tains' Bide and through the deep gorges, like the blast of
a thousand war-trumpets — lightnings played mad antics in
the heavens, and the thunder's voice detonated with ter-
rific force about the devoted castle. Every peasant in the
neighborhood knew of the terrible tales which were told
of the old chateau ; and from the time the huge pile
montag's second story. 325
arose on their sight until they hurried quickly by, beneath
its overhanging shadow, scarcely a word passed their lips.
Such was the name and notoriety the castle and its lord
had obtained.
At the close of a year, on one particular Christmas, the
old Baron had relaxed his stern rule ; he had issued orders
to all of his retainers to assemble at the castle, and pro-
mised them that they should spend the night in merry-
making and in wine-tempered joviality. Many a long
year had flown by since the banquet hall of the old cha-
teau was lit with the festive torch; and the Baron's call
excited much surprise as well as pleasure among his hard-
working vassals. The night came around in due season,
and nothing was spared by Konigsgrab to add to the real
comfort of his men. The old chateau blazed with a wel-
come light from top to bottom. So rare was this sight,
that it was remarked by many at a distance, who sagely
and truly remarked that something strange was going to
happen. Despite the joyousness of the occasion, the
night wore a gloomy, threatening aspect, and the dull,
thick, leaden clouds, hurrying wrathfully above the turret
wall, seemed to wear a forbidding frown.
But the season of festivity commenced ; the laugh and
the jest and — the bowl passed freely; happiness was on
every face and joy in every heart. Noble harpers sung of
love and war — fruitful themes alike — and with their vary-
ing melodies charmed the souls of all. Konigsgrab looked
on, well pleased ; his generally morose face was lighted
with a radiant glow which spoke well his inward satisfac-
tion— a glow it had not felt for many a day. Suddenly,
326 MON TAG - S E( <'N D S fOE 2
during a lull of the music in the kail, a faintly shrill
and prolonged winding blast echoed through the room,
ami told that there was some one without seeking hospi-
tality and shelter for the uight. A faint cloud of dis-
pleasure passed over Konigsgrab's brow when the un-
known trumpet sound fell on his ear as it rose above the
wild storm without.
•• Who can come at this time of the night '.'" he moodilj
remarked; but, as if remembering the festive occasion.
he continued, "but let him conic! whoever lie is. he is
welcome. Tell the warden to lower the drawbridge, and
admit the stranger."
There was a flag in the merriment and gaiety — the jest
was suspended, and each awaited the coming of the un-
known, who had chanced so fortunately to call in a lucky
though late hour at the castle-gates of Konigsgrab. The
curiosity and patience of the company did not suffer; a
heavy, decided footfall sounded quickly along the corridor
leading to the hall, and in another moment a tall, slender
form, fully mailed and well armed, appeared in the door-
way, and stood lor a moment in the full blaze of the
bright light. Jlis visor was down, and the long drooping
plume of ebon blackness swept over his shoulders. His
harness was splashed with mud, and the blood on his
heavy spur told that he had journeyed last that day.
Hi- armor was coal black, and the slightest motion of the
body gave rise to ten thousand brilliant coruscations, as
tla- light fell on the man}' reflecting mobile scales, lie
stood for a moment, as if undecided, and then advanced
with the ease of a courtier, bowing gracefully to the com-
MONTAG S SECOND STORY. 327
pany, and spoke to Konigsgrab, whom he had no diffi-
culty in distinguishing as the host.
•' I pr'ythee," he said, " excuse an errant knight, my
good host ; an angry storm, a dark night, and the many
bright lights which flash from your noble castle, have
determined me to crave the boon of hospitality — a boon
generally granted to one of my spurs, and which I know
you will not refuse ; for methinks thou hast been a knight,
and hast couched a spear." These words were spoken in
a bold, off-hand manner, and made a favorable impression
on all.
" True, Sir Knight," replied the dark-browed Konigs-
grab, " thou speakest what all who know me say ; my
lance 7ias gleamed in some fields, and the name of Konigs-
grab is not unknown. But I forget — I bid you welcome,
Sir Knight, to whatever comfort my poor castle can offer.
And now unlock your visor, lay aside sword and helmet,
and aid in draining the wine-cup."
The young knight did as he was bid. He unbuckled
his heavy sword, and tossed it carelessly in a corner. He
next took his helmet from his head, and, raising back from
his snow-white forehead a mass of chestnut curls, he
turned again smilingly toward the company. What a
noble face and royal head was there presented ! The soft,
downy moustache of early manhood just shaded his lip,
and the clear white, mantling skin resembled more attri-
butes of a " gentle ladye" than of a " gallant knighte."
As Konigsgrab gazed admiringly into that girlish yet
manly face, he suddenly gave a quick and nervous start,
MO NT Ad's SECOND STORY.
gazing ;it the sank' time more intently at the features of
the 3 oung Btranger knight.
•■ ' /','- iii .' 'tis h .'" be murmured; but the company
heard not bis words, nor noticed bis perturbed manner.
The young knight, however, gave one quick, short glance
toward his host, and then mingled sociably with the
throng. Ourr more the wine-cup passed freely, and song
and jest enlivened the festive hour. The hold and manly
tones oi' the young knight rang loud and musically; and
whenever he spoke or sang he gained every ear. He ever
had for all a pleasant word, and a song he gave whenever
requested. Occasionally, the young knight would address
some word to his host, who, singularly enough, heard him
not until his attention had been twice called. It was
very plain that a new train of thought — one more conge-
nial with his usual self — had been awakened in Konigs-
grab's bosom. It was a gloomy, saddened chord that was
awakened, and its touch gave back darksome, dull echoes.
The storm still continued to rage frantically without,
and the winds sang more mournfully than ever. The
night wore away, and the small ''hours ayant the twal"
warned all to break from the feast and retire; for the
remaining space of darkness, before the sun should shine
once more, was short. An ominous frown, for some time
gathering, now settled over the grim face of Konigsgrab.
The Beldom-worn or seldom-seen benign and joyous coun-
tenance which was observable on his face at the com-
mencement of the banquet, had now passed wholly away.
The murderous-looking stolidity which generally charac-
montag's second story. 329
terized the man now claimed his countenance as long-
inhabited and undisputed territory.
One by one the guests departed, and one by one the
brilliant lights in the hall were extinguished. Still the
young knight lingered with the last, and seemed loth to
depart. More than once had his keen hazel eye burnt
brightly as it fell aud rested for a moment or so on his
darkly-frowning host, Konigsgrab.
" Thou hadst a son, Sir Konigsgrab ?" he suddenly ex-
claimed, advancing toward his host, as the latter turned
slightly and half impatiently toward him. Konigsgrab's
countenance grew as black as the night which outside
glowered down upon his gloomy castle. " And who gave
you the information, Sir Knight f ' he almost hissed.
The young man retained his complete self-possession, as
he replied very distinctly, " I did know Hermann well ;
but — my good host — he is your son no longer — he is
dead."
" Dead /" exclaimed the old Baron ; " and I am glad of
it /" he continued, aside. This remark, though cautiously
made, was overheard ; a slight sneer curled the lip of the
young knight. " And how and why did he die, Sir
Knight ?" " Another time, my good host, another time !
The story is long and tedious ; yes, I must be frank.
But should you wish it, to-morrow you shall listen to the
minutest recital of the story. The truth is, I am weary,
my horse has travelled far this "
" Not another word, Sir Knight ! excuse my seeming
neglect of you. You must be indeed weary, to have
ridden as you have this day."
130 mont Ac's SECON D S rOB 5 .
•• It is nothing, m\ good host, and — but I am at your
Bervice." " 1 am Borry, very sorry, my good Sir Knight/'
returned Konigsgrab, after a pause of a minute or two,
while a Bhadow of scheming deviltry flitted across bis
countenance. " I am Borry to lie compelled to place you
tor the remainder of the night, in a chamber which is
little fitted for your lordly repose. Such as it is, however,
you are freely ami immediately welcome to it. But, Sir
Knight, it is haunted /" The young knighl gave a slight
start, while a smile played rapidly over his face. In an
instant, however, he replied, perfectly at ease, "All the
hetter. my good host, for, in that case, I shall have com-
pant/, to which I am always accustomed in the tented
field:" and he cast a sharp glance toward his host. " Only
1 will t<il:' in// trusty stn>r>l along, my lord" he continued.
Snatching an earthen oil lam}) rather rudely, Konigsgrab,
evidently the creature of some deep emotion, simply mut-
tered, as hi' did so, " In this direction, Sir Knight!" The
heavy oaken staircase was quickly ascended — the dark
and dreaded corridor was trod, and Konigsgrab halted
suddenly before a tall massive door, covered over with
dust and cobwebs, and which apparently had not grated
on its hinges for many long years.
•• It is here, Sir Knight," he said, giving the young
knight the small lamp, while Konigsgrab busied himself
in adjusting the key in the lock. A casual glance at this
key, revealed to the young man, on it. a small spot of
deep red />/<»,>/. lie thought it strange, hut said nothing.
The door moved hack, and almost pushing his guest inside
the dreaded apartment, Konigsgrab drew the door to
montag's second story. 331
again, and muttered " Good-night." The door closed
with a sharp click ; stepping hastily to it, the young
man saw the iron bolt, well shot, and firmly lodged
in the socket, in the stone encasing. He was locked in !
Smiling scornfully, he listened a moment to the retreating
footfalls of Konigsgrab now dying away in the distance,
and unheeding everything around him, he cast himself
into a chair, and fell into a train of thought. It lasted
but a moment. Arising from his seat, he leisurely paced
the chamber. " And is this the old castle," he muttered,
" where, several long years ago, I felt all the bitterness of
humbled boyish pride ? And is my worthy host — my
own — no — I will not call the name, for his son is dead
to him ! a}-, fully dead, by every tie which binds pa-
rents to child ! And this is the Goblin Chamber, eh ? of
which so much is said ; and — I stand this night unawed,
within the shadow of its heavy wainscotting !" He
paused, for he thought he heard a soft and plaintive sigh,
issuing, it seemed, from the very ceiling of the room.
So soft and gentle it was, that it appeared more like the
last futile struggle of an exhausted breeze. " Hist !" ex-
claimed the knight, as the ambiguous sound fell on his
ear. " Methought some sound, unusual, smote my ear,
but my imagination is at work, my brain is excited, and
no wonder, distorted fancyings fill my mind ! Oh ! mother,
dear, dear mother, where, where art thou ?"
"High above this paltry world — freed from all cares — in
heaven," said a deep, low, sepulchral voice, coming from
the centre of the ceiling. A holy awe spread over the
young man; he first motioned toward his good sword,
MONTAG S SEOON D STOK Y.
fearing foul play — l>ut the outstretched arm dropped
powerless. The lighl in his chamber grew dim, and
burned with a dull, unsteady, blue flame. The storm
increased in fury without, and ten thousand demons
seemed to be gibbering in the air.
••It' thou art an evil one," spoke the young knight,
slowly and distinctly, " speak — and Bay, if, byword or
deed, I have ever harmed thee. If from the upper, celes-
tial regions, oh! mysterious Power! 1 bow in thy presence,
and await thy word."
•• Hermann!" whispered the soft, low, sepulchral tone
again, "lam thy mother's shade /"
•• Great God!" exclaimed the young knight, quivering
with excitement. " If thou canst — then, dear, sainted
mother — show thyself in material shape."
A thunder-stroke shook the strong castle to its basis;
and the lurid, sulphurous flash, shone around the old gray
walls, lighting up every wild gorge, and gleaming fearfully
on every neighboring mountain crag. The young knight
instinctively recoiled from the shock ; but, recovering him-
self, he gazed confusedly around him. The chamber was
inky dark — yet in the very centre of the ceiling above, a
bloodr^red hand glowed on the wall.
" Thou .sees/ thy moth r's hand, Hermann ! By it many
],,,,-, died .' — bvi tin/ mother died />;/ <i bloodier hind ! Look,
Hermann, /no/,-.'" Another peal of terrific thunder!
mid then a flash of ghastly lightning! The room was
once again illumined, but now with a clear, roseate glow
— something unearthly — as if from heaven. As soon as
hi- eyes had become accustomed to the light, the young
montag's second story.
knight saw, standing directly under the ceiling where the
hand had appeared, nothing less than the image of his
sainted mother. Still as death — motionless as the sculp-
tured marble — remained the figure. The features were
perfectly distinct, though they were covered over with a
thin, supernatural gauze — in which, in fact, the entire
figure was enveloped. A holy light seemed to hang around
the spectre, and shed over it an angelic luminousness.
Steadfastly gazing on the fixed eye of young Hermann,
the spectre moved its trembling lips, and thus spoke : —
" Hermann, I come for thee — and for thy father, Kon-
igsgrab ! Start not ! 'Tis so ordained by Him, my son,
who rules land and sea, and who governs likewise us, the
inhabitants of an unearthly world ! But before the final
acomplishment of my terrestrial visit, let me tell thee a
brief tale.
" I was the first, my son, to honor Konigsgrab's bed.
I soon found out the demon with whom I had to deal.
Just seven years after you blessed our marriage, Konigs-
grab, one night, coming in from an unsuccessful foray
against a neighboring baron, bore the evident marks of
anger and dissatisfaction on his face. At some trivial
remark — one of loving sympathy — from me, he flew into
a fearful rage, and with his own husband's hand he thrust
the fatal dagger through my heart. Without a groan I
fell and died — and joined the band of unseen spirits,
hovering everywhere. My spirit-part lived ; and, in due
course of time, I saw Konigsgrab wed nine other wives,
each of whom breathed her last in life-blood let out by
the demon's — thy father's — dark, bloody hand. 'Twas all
",:;i montag's seoon i> story.
beneath my gaze. This chamberi our nuptial chamber! —
wherein thou, my dear Hermann, wasl horn — I haunted
with niv presence, and — my presence was death to <ill ! On
the foreheads of those slain 1 placed my bloody signet. So
it was ordered; and so it shall be until m\ death-bearing
hand Bhall be laid on the forehead of one! Until that
time 1 Bhall linger on earth in spiritual shape. But that
time, appointed by an ever-wise Fountain Head and Law-
giver, is near, and the moments wax on when the end of
a bloody drama will be reached! Now. come, Hermann,
and look upon the doings of thy dark father, Konigsgrab !"
ll-bound, the young knight followed the smoothly-
eliding figure as it slid across the room, and halted before
the hare wall. A touch of the goblin finger, and an im-
mense ponderous stone Mock swung slowly back. Her-
mann started affrighted, and then gazed again at the sight
presented.
I 'ome and look, Hermann!" so spoke his ghost-mother.
Drawing near again, the young knight gazed long and
aw. '-stricken into the secrets of that hidden chamber.
Piled in regular succession, one above the other, with the
murderous dagger-marks plainly showing in the left
breast, were the victims of Konigsgrab's hellish crimes.
The flesh was dropping in rotten strips from the bones ;
the teeth had fallen out. and the hair had disappeared:
yet plainly could he seen the dagger's thrust, and the cold
blood clotted around the lips of the gaping wound. At
the bottom of the ghastly pile, young Hermann recognised
hi- mother's form. Turning toward the spectre, the
semblance was perfect.
MONTAG S SECOND STORY.
" Now, Hermann/' lowly whispered the angelic goblin,
" the time draws near — the murderer must soon join the
murdered. The blood of these victims calls loudly for
vengeance ! I know a spell — a charm he cannot resist —
'tis given me from above. Hark ! and hear it well."
For a moment all was as still as death, and then the
faint and silvery chimings, as of some unearthly bell,
sounded musically in the air. Again and again its gentle
summons echoed through the apartment, and once again
all was still except the fierce tempest roaring without.
Scarcely had the fairy bell ceased its gentle reverbera-
tions, when a heavy footfall sounded hastily without
along the dark corridor; in another moment the huge
oaken door of the Goblin Chamber was hurled open.
Revealed by the ghastly glare of supernatural light, there
stood the horror-stricken Konigsgrab ! every feature fear-
fully contorted with direst dread — his whole being, com-
pletely metamorphosed !
" Who calls ? ivho rang THAT bell f ' he gasped. " My
God ! my God !" he cried frantically, as his starting eyes
fell on the veiled figure, and, tumbling headlong into the
room, he fell at the feet of his spectre wife. Another
instant, and the blood-red hand seared his brow. One
wild shriek, and the soul of Konigsgrab mingled with the
howling wind without.
" Come, Hermann ! come ! 'tis all fulfilled ! Now,
bogles, work your will ! 'Tis ended !" A mighty thun-
der-peal echoed for miles around ; a lurid gleam of light-
ning lit up the surrounding chaos; and amid the shrieks
of men and the gibbering of devils, the old castle of
montag's second story
Konigsgrab passed away ; not a soul was left alive within
it- walls; ami m>t one Btone remained upon another.
For centuries after — to this day, in fact — on cold, raw,
stormv nights, myriads of phantom lights can be seen glid-
ing to and fro on the rugged mountain top on the Rhine,
on which stood the old castle The peasants, over their
brattenberger, assert that these arc the ghosts of Kbnigs-
grab's retainers, holding th ir last banquet on earth !
So ended Meinherr. A death-like silence followed the
recital of the story. It was at length broken by S., thus:
•• Meinherr. you say the ruins of KSnigsgrab's castle can
bt seen on the Rhine, wen to this day?"
■■ Jal so T replied the unsuspecting " Huzzar."
'• Ah !" returned S., with a knowing wink to the others;
"how then, Meinherr, is it that not one stone was left upon
anotht r ?"
Meinherr's face was as calm as ever as he replied in a
moment, " Aber, das 1st nichts! the stones are there seat-
tend around — but not one on another! Ach, mein Gott /"
- 's face reddened, as we laughed at Meinherr's retort.
" And what did become of the castle, Montag? Why
did it come to such a wreck in a breath, as it were?"
asked Esslinger, watching narrowly Meinherr's lace.
" Why, lightning struck it, of course — Gott in himmel!"
returned the ever ready " Huzzar," as he twirled his gray
moustache. Good for you, my good old Meinherr!
But now to bed.
CHAPTER XVI.
T this point I have deemed it necessary to give
a short sketch of Jerusalem, that sketch to em-
brace all that might be desired by the tourist, or
reader, and which might particularly afford to
travellers some information, relative to what is to be seen
in Jerusalem, giving also, a condensed history of the vari-
ous objects of wonder in the Holy City ; also, a glance at
the state of society, the different religious sects, &c, &c.
This work has been done hastily, yet no excuse is offered
for it, on this account. If it ever should lighten the trou-
bles of any tourist, who should traverse these far-away
regions, I should feel that it has not been written in vain.
ANCIENT TOPOGRAPHY.
In studying the ancient topography of the city of
Jerusalem, it is best, I take it, to consider first, each of
the separate hills, on which, like ancient Rome, this
antique town was then wholly, as now partially, built.
Like the old " mistress of the world," too, Jerusalem had
her seven hills ; Mt. Zion, Ophel, Mt. Moriah, Akra,
Bezetha, Mt, Olivet, and the Hill of Evil Counsel. A
brief notice of each of these hills would not be inappro-
22 (337)
338 1111.1. OF F. VII. col N SKI..
priate, as the reader or tin- tourist, would thus be enabled
to understand nunc fully, and appreciate better, the
moth rn city and its topography. Commencing then in
inverse order, 1 shall speak, and quite cursorily, fust of
the ///// of Evil ( '(must I.
On this hill arc the so-called ruins of a country-house,
once belonging to Caiaphas, the High Priest, of which I
have spoken in the pages of my Journal. In this house,
• -<> the\ say." the enemies of our Lord gathered in close
conclave, to lay schemes for His capture and murder!
If the tradition has any truth in it, the interesting facts
revealed by it were kept a long time from a curious
world, for fourteen hundred years passed away, before
the site of this house was found out and definitely deter-
mined on. 1 think it was in the fifteenth century, that
the hill was first known by the name of that of Evil
< lounsel. How much foundation there is for believing the
above tradition, I cannot say. It is interestingly pleasant,
while looking at the spot in question, to gulp down with
a slight grimace, legend, house, hill, Caiaphas and all,
yet Bober truth comes in for an audience in the council
chamber of our minds, and generally ridicules the whole
affair, and to such an extent, that we believe nothing at
all concerning it; one of our party going so far as to say,
without thinking, of course) that he, for his part, did not
beli«-ve there was ever a Caiaphas! This house, or its
ruin.-, and the tree of Judas, formerly referred to and
commi oted on, present the chief features of interest, as
far ae a visit is concerned to this hill. The parapet on
the southern boundary of Mt. Zion, is the best stand-
BEZETHA. 339
point from which it can be viewed, as it is situated
directly opposite the wall. The hill is south of Hinnom,
and on the north, its rising cliffs have a singularly wild
and romantic look, while from their summit, a gorgeous
prospect is to be had.
I shall next notice Bezetha, of which the most of our
knowledge is derived from Josephus. We find no men-
tion made of it at all, in the Holy Book, nor any allusion
to any hill which might be identified with the one under
consideration.
At the time of the crucifixion, Bezetha was well covered
with houses — in fact, was densely populated. It was
enclosed about ten years after the crucifixion — perhaps
sooner — and taken into the city proper. This was done
by Herod Agrippa, although the city on this hill was
most splendid under the reign of the Great Herod. The
fact of this hill being left out of the city after the cruci-
fixion, and not included in it until eight years following
that event, seems, in Porter's opinion, to weigh heavily
counter to the opinion of the authenticity of the Church
of the Sepulchre. This latter was without the city —
taking it for granted that the church and Golgotha are
synonymous sites, which all believers in the genuineness
of the church uphold — yet it is now in the middle of the
city, and Bezetha was not within the walls until eight
years after the Death on the Cross !
" From the ridge on Scopus, above the tombs of the
kings, the dome of the great mosk is just seen over the
hill ; but when we begin to descend, it is soon wholly
shut out from view." From this we may readily infer
340 BEZETHA.
thai Bezetha is a high bill, and from mention being made
of Scopus, as a point from which the view of the Mosk
of Omar is obstructed by the bill, we can gain some
definite idea of the locality of Bezetha. We must infer
that it is north of the old site of Antonia (a portion of
the llaram. anciently considered), or of the present
governor's house, which is at the north-west corner of
the Large Temple enclosure. There is a considerable hill
here, ami the ([notation 1 have given is true to the letter.
This, tin an must he the old Bezetha — there can be no
reasonable doubt to the contrary.
Josephus says, "The hill Bezetha was separated from
Antonia; and, being the highest of all, it was built up
adjoining to a part of the new city, and alone oversha-
dowed the Temple on the north The city
overflowing with inhabitants gradually crept beyond the
walls; and the people, incorporating with the city the
quarter north of the Temple close to the hill, made a con-
siderable advance, insomuch that a fourth hill, which is
called Bezetha, was also surrounded with habitations. It
lay over against Antonia, from which it was separated by
a d<cp fosse, purposely excavated to cut off the communi-
cation between the hill and the foundations of Antonia,
that they mighl be at one- less easy of access, and more
elevated. And thus the depth of the fosse added greatly
to the height of the towers. This new-built part is called
in our language Bezetha, which, being interpreted in the
Greek tongue, would be Gcenopolis — -New City.'"
Bezetha may be stated in a few words to be abroad,
irregular rocky ridge running north-west or north-by-west
MOUNT OF OLIVES. 341
from the Temple area. Its mean breadth is six or seven
hundred yards ; its -extreme length one thousand yards.
The mosk of the Dervishes stands on this ridge, and on
the exact site, they say, of Herod's proud castle. The
Pool of Bethesda also is near the hill ; it stands, I think,
on the north-east. Bezetha is now covered over thickly
with luxuriant olives, and forms one of the most pleasant
rambles in or around Jerusalem.
The Mount of Olives. — Of course, with this sacred
mountain are connected the most glowing and interesting,
and yet the most terrible and gloomy associations of the
grand Biblical Drama. It is the first object of sacred
wonder that arises on our mind, and it is actually the
first that rises on our physical view. Coming in from the
sea by the Jaffa Gate, the long, green, gentle olive-covered
slope of Mount Olivet is gazed at with holy feelings many
minutes before we enter the city walls. With this sacred
slope are connected so many thrilling, connecting ties and
events in the life of the humble Nazarene, that we cannot
satisfy the cravings of our mind by a second, nor by a
third, nor yet by a half-dozen visits to the spot.
" No name in Scripture calls up associations at once so
sacred and so pleasing as that of Olivet. The ' Mount' is
so intimately connected with the private, the devotional
life of the Saviour, that we read of it and look at it with
feelings of deepest interest and affection. Here He often
sat with His disciples, telling them of wondrous events
yet to come ; of the destruction of the Holy City, of the
sufferings, the persecutions, and the final triumph of His
followers (Matt. xxiv.). Here He gave them the beauti-
; i 2 MOT NT MO 1U A II.
ful parables of the 'Ten Virgins,' and the ' Five Talents'
Mm. xxv.). Here He was wonl to retire on each eve-
ning for meditation and prayer, and rest of body, when
weary and harassed by the Labors and trials of the day
(Luke xxi. 37). And here He came on the night of His
betrayal to utter that wonderful prayer, '0, My Father.
if it be possible, lei this cup pass from me: wrrrtlichss,
not as Twillfbut as Thou witt (Matt. xxvi. 30). And
when the cup of God's wrath had been drunk, and death
and the grave conquered, He led His disciples out again
over Olivet, as tar as to Bethany, and, after a parting
blessing, ascended to heaven (Luke xxiv. 50,51; Acts
i. 12)."
From the Mount of Olives a most enchanting as well
as most instructive view of Jerusalem and its environs is
to be had. 1 have spoken of this more particularly in my
Journal. I beg leave to refer the reader to it.
Mount Moriah is one of the most sacred of the hills on
which ancient Jerusalem was built. It was up to this
mountain that Abraham led Isaac to be sacrificed — an
offering to the Lord; and it was on this sacred spot
that the covenant between God and man was solemnized
(Genesis xxii. 9-18). 1 may as well state here that there
are some who deny that Moriah, at Jerusalem, was the
ne of the intended sacrifice of Isaac. Among them is
Mr. Stanley; lie thinks the mountain was Gerizim, in the
Plain of .Sharon, lint this does not at all agree with
the Bible narrative. Abraham could not have made the
journey, in that case, in three days.
Oman, the Jebusite, had his threshing-floor, which
MOUNT MORIAH. 343
David afterwards bought at an enormous price, on Mount
Moriah. It was by this threshing-floor the angel stood,
holding the drawn sword over the devoted city. David
built an altar on the site of the threshing-floor, and offered
sacrifices at the time of the threatened destruction of Jeru-
salem. Mount Moriah was the site of that ancient archi-
tectural wonder of the world — the gorgeous Temple of
King Solomon ; and on it was afterwards built the almost
equally splendid Mosk of Omar. It is useless to speak
of the splendors of the Temple, which are so graphically
given in 2 Chronicles.
The genuine Mount Moriah originally stood in the centre
of what is now known as the Haram Area, and consisted
of a small rocky elevation, just large enough to admit of
the erection of the " altar and sanctuary." Around this,
to admit of more extensive buildings, a platform of great
magnitude was raised, "supported in part by massive
walls of masonry, filled up internally with stones and
earth ; and in part, towards the south, by heavy piers and
arches." This platform we now recognise in the Haram.
The believing ones and the cognoscenti say, that the very
spot where the holy altar once stood can now be pointed
unmistakeably out. It is, they say, directly under the
dome of Omar's Mosk, and is the natural rock, which
existed there thirty centuries ago. The Mosk of Omar is
called, on this account, " Kubbet es-Sukhrah," the " Dome
of the Rock."
The eastern side of Mount Moriah, as it breaks abruptly
down, for a hundred and sixty feet, into the Valley of
Jehoshaphat, is romantically beautiful.
i I ! OPB EL — A K R A.
Ophel. — There is do doubt bul thai this hill was
included in the city at b very earl} date — as early as two
centuries after Solomon — if even it did not form a portion
of the bit} in thai wise monarch's day. it is nothing
more, in inv opinion, discarding all egotism, than a
southern continuation of the ridge of Moriah. It roaches
to the abrupt cliff, overhanging the far-famed Pool of
Siloam. "The whole is now carefully cultivated in ter-
races, like Zion, and is planted with olives and other irnit-
trees. Its northern end, at the Haram-wall, is nearly
one hundred feet lower than the top of Moriah; and
from thence to its termination is about five hundred and
twenty yards; the breadth of its summit, from brow to
brow, is about one hundred yards, near the eentre."
Akba. — From Josephus we gain all of our knowledge
concerning this hill. In his time it was called, in distinc-
tion to Zion or " upper city," the " lower city" or " lower
market." Zion and Akra, with the Tyropseon valley
between them, were directly opposite each other ; and on
the other side of Akra was another valley, judging from
the words of Josephus. This other fosse he designates as
a "broad valley," and it separated the lower city from
the Temple on Mount Moriah. It has been thought from
this that the ridge on which the Christian Quarter is now
built, and which runs by the Church of the Sepulchre,
" toward the western side of the Haram," corresponds with
Akra. The slopes of the ridge can be readily recognised
now from several stand-points in Jerusalem, especially
from the Latin hostelry, near the Jaffa Gate. In order to
connect Akra with the Temple, the " broad valley" was
AKRA ZION. 345
filled up so as to afford a foundation for a road. This
connection was made by what seems to some a gate cor-
responding to the present " Cotton Merchants' Gate."
Speaking of Akra, Josephus says : " Over against this
(Akra) was a third hill, naturally lower than Akra, and
formerly separated from it by another broad valley. But
afterwards, during the sovereignty of the Asmoneans,
they threw earth into this valley, desiring to connect the
city with the Temple ; and levelling the summit of Akra,
they made it lower, so that the Temple might appear
above it."
Another quotation from Josephus, I find in Porter, tends
to throw light on the position of Akra : " In the western
parts of the enclosure (of the temple) stood four gates ;
one leading over to the royal palace, the valley being
intercepted to form a jmssage ; two leading to the suburb ;
and the remaining one into the city (Akra), being distin-
guished by many steps down into the valley, and from
this up again upon the ascent ; for the city lay over
against the Temple in the manner of a theatre."
Zion. — Finally, we come to consider the largest, and,
in very many points, the most important and most inter-
esting of the hills of Jerusalem — Mt. Zion ! This
occupies the south-western section of the city. On it
were erected the first houses ever built in the Holy City,
and it is remarkable as being the scene of many interesting
events of Bible history. The following condensed history
of Mt. Zion, from the pen of a rich and reliable author,
will be read with much interest : —
" Of the several hills on which Jerusalem was built, Zion
346 zion.
w as the largest, and in many respects the most interesting.
It occupies the whole Bouth-western section of the ancient
site, extending considerably farther south than the opposite
ridge of Moriah and Ophel. The western and southern
Bides rise abruptly from the bed of the Valley of
Hinnoni. and appear to have originally consisted of a series
oi' rocky precipices rising one above another like huge
stairs; but now they are partially covered with loose soil
and the debris of buildings which time has thrown down
from above. The southern brow of Zion is bold and
prominent; and its position, separated from other heights
and surrounded by deep valleys, makes it seem loftier
than any other point in the city, though it is in reality
lower than the ground at the north-west corner of the
wall. The elevation of the hill above the Valley of
Hinnoni. at the point where it bends westward, is about
one hundred and fifty feet ; and above the Kidron, at En-
Rogel, three hundred feet. On the south-east, Zion slopes
down in a series of cultivated terraces, steeply, though
not abruptly, to the site of the "King's Gardens," where
Hinnoni, the Tyropaeon, and the Kidron unite. Here
and around to the south the whole declivities are
sprinkled with olive trees, which grow luxuriantly among
the narrow strips of corn. The scene cannot but recall
tie- words of Micah the Morasthite, spoken twenty-six
centuries ago: — "Zion shall be ploughed like a field"
(Jer. xx vi. 18). On the east the descent to the Tyropa3on
is ai first gradual, but as we proceed northward to the
modern wall it becomes much steeper; and about three
hundred yards within the wall, directly facing the south-
zion. 347
west angle of the Haram, there is a precipice of naked
rock from twenty to thirty feet high. The declivity is
here encumbered with heaps of filth and rubbish, -thickly
overgrown in places with the cactus or prickly pear.
The Tyropseon was anciently much deeper at this point
than it is now ; it has been filled up by the ruins of the
bridge, the Temple wall, and the palaces of Zion. The
best view of the eastern slopes of Zion and the southern
section of the Tyropseon is obtained from the top of the
wall in descending from Zion Gate to the Dung Gate.
I was particularly struck with the interesting view before
me when standing on a projecting angle of the wall near
the place where the aqueduct from Solomon's Pools
enters the city. Passing down from hence, I followed the
course "of the aqueduct for some distance ; and then turning
more to the north, through thickets of cactus, I examined
the cliff above-mentioned, and the whole declivities on
this side of Zion.
" The limits of Zion for so far cannot be mistaken ; on
the northern side, however, they are very far from being
so well defined. But a careful study of the topographical
notices of Josephus, combined with an examination of the
whole site of the city, such as I trust the reader has
already completed, can leave little doubt on the mind as
to the true boundary of Zion on the north. It will not,
of course, be expected here that I should enter into any
lengthened review of the different opinions entertained by
writers regarding this section of the Holy City. It is
enough to say that I have read them all ; that I have
carefully surveyed the ground on two different occasions
148 zion.
— once since the greater part of the presenl work was
written-, and thai I have studied with care the descrip-
tions of JosephuS. Thus, while the theories and facts of
Others have net been overlooked. I have been able to
form my conclusions independent of them. Kind friends
will please remember, however, thai 1 lay uo claim to
infallibility, or anything approaching to it. I only state
honest opinions, which have been honestly come by.
•■ From the several descriptions and incidental notices of
Josephus the following facts may be gathered : — That the
'Upper City,' built on Zion, was surrounded by ravines 5
that it was separated from the 'Lower City' (Akra) by
a valley called the TyropSBOn ; that upon a crest of rock
thirty cubits high, on the northern brow of Zion, stood
three great towers — Hippicus, Pha<a<';lus. and Mariamne;
that the wall enclosing the Upper City on the north ran
by these towers to a place called the Xystus, and joined
the western wall of the Temple area ; that there was a gate
in that western wall, northward of this point of junction,
opening into Akra: that the Xystus was near to and com-
manded by the west wall of the Temple area, though not
united to it. and that the royal palace adjoined and
overlooked the Xystus on the west, while it was also
attached to the great towers above mentioned; and, lastly,
that both Xystus and palace were connected at their
southern end by a bridge with the Temple area (see Jos. B.
J., v. 4; vi. 6, 'I; ii. 1G, 3; Ant., xv. 11, 5). The site
of the t « - 1 j 1 1 >1 • - area being well known, and the remains of
tic- ancient bridge undoubtedly discovered, the positions
of the Xystus and the palace can be seen at a glance.
zion. 349
The former occupied the western side of the Tyropgeon,
extending from about the street of David to the remains
of the arch ; while the latter lay along its western side,
covering the summit of the hill quite to the brow of
Hinnom ; and adjoining it on the north were the great
towers and walls.
" But Josephus states that Zion and Akra were built
* fronting each other, separated by a valley, at which the
rows of houses terminated.' This valley must, in part
at least, have bounded Zion on the north ; and yet it is
scarcely distinguishable in the present day. A long ridge,
as has already been stated, sweeps along the eastern side
of Hinnom, extending from the Tomb of David northward
far beyond the modern city wall ; but if we carefully
examine this ridge from the top of the pasha's house, or
some commanding spot near the north-west angle of the
Haram, we distinctly observe a considerable depression in
it, commencing at the Yafa Gate and running down
eastward in the line of the Street of David. And if we
go to the Yafa Gate and walk down that street we see
that the ground rises abruptly on the right and gently on
the left ; we are therefore in a depression or valley, and
the northern end of Zion is on our right. At the Yafa
Gate the traveller will also notice the massive walls and
deep fosse of the citadel. One of the towers especially
claims attention from the antique masonry of the lower
part, consisting of very large stones bevelled like those
of the Temple walls. Recent researches have shown that
this tower, as well as that at the north-west angle of the
citadel, is founded on a scarped rock which rises about
Z 1 0 N.
forty feel above the bottom of the fosse. This is unques-
tionably thai ' rocky crest' on which, Josephus informs us,
the three greal towers on the northern brow ofZion were
founded. Here, then, are data sufficiently clear on which
to determine the northern limits of /ion.
" ( hi the summit of /ion. towards its western hrow. there
is a level tract extending in Length, from the citadel to
the Tomb o[' David, about six hundred yards; and in
breadth, from the city wall to the eastern side of the
Armenian Convent, about two hundred and fifty yards.
A much larger space, however, was available for building
purposes, and was at one time densely occupied. Now
not more than one-half of this space is enclosed by the
modern wall, while fully one-third of that enclosed, is
taken up with the barrack-yards, the convent gardens,
and the waste ground at the lepers' huts. All without the
wall, with the exception of the cemeteries, and the clus-
ter of houses round the Tomb of David, is now cultivated
in terraces, and thinly sprinkled with olive trees (Mic.
iii. 12).
•■ /ion was the first spot in Jerusalem occupied by build-
inns. Upon it stood the stronghold of the Jebusites,
which so long defied the Israelites, and was at last cap-
tured by King David (Num. xiii. 29; Josh. xv. 63; Jud.
i. 21; 2 Sam. v. 5—8). Upon it that monarch built his
palace, and there, for more than a thousand years, the
kings and princes of Esrael lived and ruled (2 Sam. v. 9,
&c.). In /ion. too, was David buried, and fourteen of his
successors on the throne were laid near him in the family
tomb (1 Kings ii. 10; xi. 43; xiv. 31, &c). Zion was the
zion. 351
last spot that held out, when the Romans, under Titus,
encompassed the doomed city, when the rest of Jerusalem
was in ruins ; when the enemy occupied the court of the
prostrate Temple, the remnant of the Jews, from the walls
of Zion, haughtily refused the terms of the conqueror,
and perished in thousands around and within the palace
of their princes.
" The city which stood on Zion, was called successively
by several names. It was probably the Salem of Mel-
chisedec (comp. Gen. xiv. 18, with Ps. lxxvi. 2) ; then it
became Jehus, under the Jebusites, so called from a son
of Canaan (Gen. x. 16 ; 1 Chron. xi. 4, 5) ; then the
'City of David,' and Jerusalem (2 Sam. v. 7). Josephus
calls it the ' Upper City,' adding, that it was known also,
in his day, as the ' Upper Market.' "
Having finished the ancient topography of Jerusalem,
in so far as the hills on which it was built are concerned,
I shall next notice briefly, the three natural valleys sur-
rounding it and [one] bisecting it. The first, and to me the
most difficult to understand, as regards its exact course,
extent, &c, &c, is the Tyropason. Of this, as of every
other place of interest of ancient Jerusalem, Josephus
gives the most lucid account. In fact, the Tyropseon is
nowhere mentioned in the Bible, and enters into no de-
scription of Jerusalem, I think, more ancient than that
given us by the Jewish historian. The " broad valley,"
to which I have referred, is no doubt synonymous with
the Tyropseon. He speaks of this valley dividing the
upper town from the lower, and of the valley which sepa-
rates Akra from Moriah ; that this valley " extended to a
352 THE TYROr.KON.
fountain, whose waters were suit! and copious," meaning,
QO doubt, Siloain. From that and other landmarks, Por-
ter thinks that the beginning or bead of the Tyropaon
was somewhere about the "northern brow of Zion."
There exists uo doubt, but that the Tyropsson Valley, in
those distant days, was much deeper than it is at present.
The accumulated dust and dSbris of nearly two thousand
years, the decay of large palaces, and the general ruin
incident to a fallen city, have done much toward obliter-
ating the once deep bed of the Tyropseon. In fact, at
one point on the street of the Christians, which leads to
the Church of the Sepulchre, from the western part of
the city, an excavation has revealed a chapel, thirty feet
belmc the present surface of the adjoining street. This,
then, must be the Tyropreon. Some have thought that
Mllo, mentioned in 2 Sam. v. 9, corresponds to the Tyro-
pseon ; but, it is generally considered, without good reason.
According to Josephus. this valley "separated Zion from
Akra on the north, and from Moriah and Ophel en the
east," of course, sweeping around two sides of the Upper
City, which is Zion. Porter says, " commencing at the Yafa
Gate, the Tyroprcon runs eastward for some five hundred
yards, and then sweeping around the north-east corner of
Zion, it turns southward between that hill and Moriah,
and continues about eight hundred yards further, till it
joins the Kidron." Nevertheless, all this is far from
being certain; and judging from Porter's own words, that
the " exact position of the head of the Tyropoeon is one of
the vexed questions of Jerusalem topography," I con-
THE BROOK KIDRON. 353
sider all we have said of this, as decidedly admitting
doubts as to its validity.
Of the Brook Kidron we have much more definite
knowledge. It runs along the eastern wall of the Haram,
and separates the city from the Mount of Olives. The
whole length of the brook from its broad valley rising
near Jerusalem, to its fall in the north-west corner of the
Dead Sea, is fourteen miles. For over two miles the
Kidron is nothing more than a large shallow valley ; it
does not deserve the name of brook until after it gets
beyond the Pool of Siloam. Throughout its course it
bears several different names; by St. Saba it is called
Wacly en-Rdheb, which means the " Monk's Valley ;" and
farther on, it is known as the " Valley of Fire," or Wacly
en^Ndr.
The first mention of Kidron that we have in the Bible
is in regard to David's flight from Absalom ; the 23d verse
of the 15th chapter 2 Samuel reads, "And the country
wept with a loud voice, and all the people passed over ;
the king also himself passed over the brook Kidron, and
all the people passed over toward the way of the wilder-
ness." Afterwards the brook is frequently mentioned.
In this valley are situated the Tombs of Absalom (or
Pillar), of Zechariah and of St. James; the Garden of
Gethsemane, the village of Siloam or Silwan, as it is now
called, &c, &c. Its bed just opposite the Haram is the
chief and much-desired place of sepulture with the Jews
of all countries and classes. They imagine that this will
be the spot where the ceremonies of the Judgment Day
are to be enacted ; and the poor creatures think that if
23
:;."> | rin: BROOK KIDROtf.
they are doI at hand when the "awful trump" Bhall sound.
thai tlu'\ will have a long and tedious way to travel
underground! Bui to this legend 1 have referred before.
Ai several portions of the Kidron its depth is as great
as one hundred and sixty fret ; and the wild scenery pre-
sented from tin' cliffs on either side is striking and grand.
The "King's Vale*' and En-Rogel are situated in the
valley also.
The Kidron has been wrongfully, though for many
years universally, called the Valley of Jehoshaphat.
Jehoshaphat means "Jehovah judgeth ;" and by a forced
translation of a passage, used simply in a metaphorical
sense by the Prophet Joel in regard to the final judgment
of all, the valley of the Kidron has been taken for that
valley ! It is now called Jehoshaphat oftener than
Kidron.
There are many ancient tombs in the Brook Kidron
«ut out from the solid rock, which in some places forms
the bed of the valley. They are specimens of exquisite
workmanship, and "impress the stranger, perhaps more
than anything else, with the wealth and splendor of the
ancient Jewish capital." The place of rising of this
noted object of topographical interest is "a quarter of a
mile north-west of the Damascus Gate."
The third and mosl fearfully interesting valley is Hin-
nom or Ge-Henna ; the one in which human sacrifices
were offered to Molech — in other words, the ancient
Tophet. Joshua speaks of it as the "Valley of the Son
of Hinnom." The Jews, recalling the bloody purposes to
which a certain dark rocky portion of this valley had
HINNOM. .)■>■)
been applied, likened it to torment, and called it Ge-
Henna, which translated means Hell. The valley com-
mences on the western part of the city, about three hun-
dred yards from the Jaffa Gate, and after a long and cir-
cuitous course it falls into the Kidron near the noted
Aceldama, to which I have before referred.
In Joshua xv. 7, 8, we read : " And the border went
up toward Debir, from the valley of Achor, and so north-
ward, looking toward Gilgal, that is before the going up
to Adummim, which is on the south side of the river : and
the border passed toward the waters of En-shemesh, and
the goings out thereof were at En-Rogel : And the bor-
der went up by the valley of the son of Hinnom, unto
the south side of the Jebusite, the same is Jerusalem :
and the border went up to the top of the mountain that
lieth before the valley of Hinnom westward, which is at
the end of the valley of the giants northward." The En-
Rogel here noticed, I have mentioned in my Journal ; it
is called also the well of Joab (not Job) . I have given
the quotation, however, to notice the fact that, I believe,
this is the first place in the Bible that Hinnom is men
tioned.
The chief interest, though a melancholy one, which
attaches itself to Hinnom, or Ge-Henna, is excited by the
remembrance of the diabolical acts of the worshippers of
Molech. During these horrible sacrifices, according to
Jeremiah, sons and daughters were offered up profusely to
the Brazen Monster. This instrument of torture, more
cruel than any concocted by the Spanish Inquisition, was
a metallic statue, half man and half ox. Wood was
856 1IINNOM.
heaped within the cavity, and when kindled, quickly
made the image, red hot. The victims then were placed
in the hissing white-hoi arms of the statue; and while
drums were beaten, to drown the agonizing cries thus
wrung out by infernal torture, the poor wretches were
immolated OD the shrine and to the idol of heathen super-
stition. Josiah defiled Tophet; "he broke in pieces the
images, and cut down the -roves, and filled their places
with the bones of men;" and being defiled, Jews no
longer entered it. It became a burying-place, however ;
and to this day Berves to carry out the prophecy of Jere-
miah, who thus foretold: - Wherefore, behold the days
come, when it shall no more be called Tophet, nor the
valley of the son of Hinnom, but the valley of Slaughter;
for they shall bury in Tophet, till there be no place."
Strange as it may seem, the good and wise King Solomon
first introduced this inhuman sacrifice, for he erected an
altar to Molech on the Mount of Olives (1 Kings). The
interest is intense, as we stand in the tangled place which
we all suppose to be the ancient Tophet ; yet the interest
is a bloody one.
CHAPTER XVII.
>ERHAPS, in connection with the valleys and hills
entering into the ancient topography of Jerusalem,
^sS> I might as well consider, in this place, the old walls
which once encircled the City of Solomon and of
the Princes of the East.
According to Josephus, these walls were three in num-
ber— the three differing in antiqueness. That these walls
were more extensive than the present, does not require
much examination into facts of history. This is especi-
ally true, as regards the first and most ancient of the old
walls. The celebrated " Tower of Hippicus," of which
Josephus writes much, is a most valuable stand-point from
which to commence to trace the ancient walls. The large
and peculiarly-chiselled stones forming this structure,
establish its age as antecedent to that of the Roman
conquest of the city. It has been called indiscriminately,
the Tower of David, the Castle of David, and the Castle
of the Pisans. More correctly, it is known as the Tower
of Hippicus; so named from one of the officers of the
Great Herod, which monarch, many antiquarians say,
built the tower. This structure stood, or stands, near the
north-western slope of Mount Zion, and was, according
to our historian, situated at the north-western angle of
(357)
row lie or 11 l PPICUS.
tin- fire! wall, or the wall which enclosed /ion. The
tower has twice escaped destruction; once when 'Titus
with his Roman army laid the pride of Jerusalem low.
ami again when the wild followers of Mohammed sacked
the city.
According to Joseph us it was in his day a most massive
and imposing fortification; and even now it presents a
formidable and Impregnable appearance. In the lull
strength and glory of its power "the form was quadran-
gular, twenty-five cubits on each side, and built up
entirely solid to the height of thirty cubits. Over this
solid part was a large cistern, and still higher were the
chambers for the guards,, surmounted by battlements.
The stones in its walls were of enormous magnitude ;
twenty cubits long by ten broad and five high. Its
situation too was commanding; for it stood on a rocky
crest which rose from the summit of Zion to a height of
fifty cubits."
From this description we see at a glance what a giant
structure Hippicus was — and well might Titus have
spared it, to show to the world what Roman valor and
perseverance had won. A cubit is, I think, about twenty-
one inches; then the rock simply on which the tower had
its basis was over eighty-seven feet, raised above the
general Buinmil of Zion — itself evenjiohere a high hill, and
this its highest portion ; added to this the height of the
tower — it- -olid portion being built up thirty cubits — and
above this yel the cistern — the guard's chamber, and then
tic height of the battlements! The whole citadel must
have been commanding indeed. Hut the Tower has
THE FIRST WALL. 359
sadly deteriorated since those distant days. Forty feet
is its greatest height now; and a few old, rusty, badly-
carriaged guns on the walls, give it a sombre, desolate
appearance.
In the Tower you are shown a large chamber, which
the Turkish soldier gravely informs you was once occu-
pied by King David ! — probably in his uxorious days, for
from this height he could see into every pool in the city.
The Tower of Hippicus then forms a fixed and a very
interesting point of departure in our study and survey of
the ancient walls of the City of the Great King. We know
that it stood " at the north-west angle of the first wall," and
we know that it stands now on the north-western brow of
Zion, near the Jaffa Gate. Knowing this, we will consider
first, the most ancient wall — that which encircled Zion.
The first wall, commencing at Hippicus, "ran eastward
along the northern . brow of Zion, and then across the
valley to the western enclosure of the Temple, a distance
of about six hundred and thirty yards." Also from Hip-
picus it extended along the western declivity of Mount
Zion in a southern direction. Its termination in this
course was at what Josephus calls the "Gate of the
Essenes." Of this place, as of another called " Bethzo,"
which he mentions in this connection, we know nothing
at all at present. From this gate it turned and passed
by the Pool of Siloam, and then, by a course of which we
can do nothing more than conjecture, it reached and
joined the Temple enclosure, or the present Haram.
This is a rough outline of the wall of Zion, which, Jose-
phus informs us, was the first wall of the city. And yet
360 berod's palace.
this account seems unsatisfactory; lor, in the works of
this Bame Josephus, we read of the arm} of Titus, which,
after it had gained oomplete possession of the Tyropaon
valley, even as far as Siloam (which is the same now as
then), ye1 they could not take the ••upper city," whither
the retreating Jews had fled. Something — some line of
defence — must have debarred their further progress. Now,
according to Josephus, in another place, as we have
already quoted, the wall of Zion Included the Tyropason
and Siloam — and the "upper city."
In the course of this wall, on the northern brow of
Zion. I think, was the Xystvs, a building most probably
a court to the royal palace of Herod, and used as a forum.
According to Josephus, the Xystus was connected with
the llarani court by the ancient bridge, the site of which
has been pretty definitely settled.
Not far from the Tower of Hippicus were two similar
towers, noted, as Hippicus, for their strength and grandeur.
To these towers, the power and defence of the city, Herod's
palace was connected. This palace extended from one
side of the hill to the other, and covered an area of great
magnitude. It was probably built on the same site as was
that of David. It is described as being gorgeous in the
extreme, and as having apartments most spacious — some
large enough to accommodate " one hundred guests."
" The magnificence of the work, and the skill displayed
in its construction, could not be surpassed. All around
were many cloistered courts, opening into one another,
and the columns in each were different. Such parts of
the courts as were open, were everywhere covered with
THE SECOND WALL. 361
verdure. There were, besides, groves with long walks
through them, lined by deep conduits; and in many
places fountains studded with bronze figures, through
which the waters were discharged. ... It was completely
enclosed by a wall, thirty cubits high ; and ornamental
towers were distributed along it at equal distances, with
spacious apartments."
The second wall encircled Akra. Now to determine its
course, it is necessary that we first definitely locate the
gate Gennath, which was in the first wall, and of which
Josephus speaks as the starting-point for the second wall.
Many disputes have arisen among learned writers on Je-
rusalem topography, in regard to this point, yet nothing
has been fully proved. Dr. Robinson believes one thing,
and Mr. Williams, in his " Holy City," is just as firm in
his opinion au contraire. The best way to act in the pre-
mises, is to study both sides, compare the respective argu-
ments and proofs, each adduces, then study for yourself,
having a like basis, with them, for research, and decide
according to honest conviction. It is generally conceded
that the gate Gennath was near Hippicus ; more probable
than otherwise, to the eastward of the tower ; for, as it
has been well remarked by an eminent writer, " the wall
was for the defence of Akra, and a glance at the map, or
at the hill itself, shows that a wall, constructed to enclose
it, and carried in a circle, as Josephus says, from a point
on the north of Zion, to the north-west corner of the
Haram, could scarcely have commenced far eastward of
Hippicus." Dr. Porter goes on to speak of the remnants
of a gate, and of two chambers near the present Damas-
362 1 HE SI CON D w A 1. 1..
cus Grate. He considers these chambers to have been the
guard-houses to a gate in the Becond wall. The most
plausible argument or reason for believing Gennath to be
near Hippicus, is by Dr. Robinson. I give it herewith.
"Josephus relates thai 'the city was fortified by three
walls, wherever it was no1 encircled b\ impassable val-
leys;' thai is to Bay, upon its whole northern quarter.
Bu1 if the gate Gennath, at which the second wall began,
was not near Hippicus, and especially if it was BO far
distant as to be opposite the western bazaars (as Mr.
Williams, and other defenders of the Holy Sepulchre,
maintain), then all that tract of the upper city, from
Hippicus to the said gate, was fortified only by a single
wall, before the time of Agrippa; and by only two walls
(instead of three) at the time of which Josephus was
writing. The tract thus unprotected, extended for more
than seven hundred feet, amounting to more than one-half
of the entire northern side of Zion, and to nearly one-half
of the whole length of the first wall.
•■ That all this, however, was not so, and that Zion was
actually protected on the north by three walls, appears
further, from the fact, that in every siege of Jerusalem,
reported by Josephus (the approaches being always, and
necessarily, made on the north and north-west), no attack
or approach is ever described as made against the upper
cit} of Zion. until after the besiegers had already broken
through the xcond wall, and had thus got possession of
the lower city. But if the second wall began near the
bazaars, then more than o.ie-half of the northern brow
of Zion was not protected by it at all; and the possession
THE WALL OF BEZETHA.
of the lower city was not necessary in order to make
approaches against the upper; and that, too, at the most
accessible point — the very point, indeed, near to Hippi-
cus, where Titus actually made his assault after he had
taken the second wall."
An authentic writer very pertly remarks, that there
would not be half this dispute connected with these holy
places, and their sites, especially with the location of the
second wall, were it not that ecclesiastical traditions were
intimately connected and blended, with them ; in other
words, let " topography, history, and ancient remains"
point out the position of the second wall, and then " there is
an end to the romance of the Holy Sepulchre, for it is far
within this line of wall, and Christ was crucified without
the gates."
77ie Wall of Bezetha, making the third of the series,
is the last described by Josephus. The Tower of
Hippicus is still the point of departure, and we have the
following sites to determine, in order to trace the line of
the wall : the Tower of Psephinus, the Monuments of
Helena, the Royal Caverns, and the " corner tower near
the place known as the Fuller's Tomb."
Of the site of three of these we may well conjecture,
and we may look upon the other — namely, the monuments
of Helena — as determined. This, it has been decided, is
identical with the present " Tombs of the Kings," to
which I shall in due time refer.
On the ridge, which is a continuation of Zion, we find
in several places scarped rock and large bevelled stones,
with very ancient substructions. These ruins are pre-
36 I T 11 l. w \ 1.1. OF BE2BTH \.
Bented bo our view, at several points along which we
might reasonably Buppose the Wall of Bezetha of Jose-
phua to have inn. It is to be supposed that the Tower
of Psephinua Btood on the summit of this ridge. It is a
\,t\ elevated and commanding position — the most com-
manding, in fact, of the whole line — and we might readily
imagine that the tower would be placed in the most impos-
ing situation.
According to Josephus, the tower was seventy cubits
high, and a view of Arabia, and of the Hebrew territory,
could be seen as far as the sea. In speaking of this wall,
.Josephus says. " the Tower of Hippicus formed the com-
mencement of the third wall, which stretched from thence
northward as far as the Tower of Psephinus, and then
passing opposite the Monuments of Helena, and extend-
ing through the Royal Caverns, it turned at the corner
known as the Fuller's Tomb, and, connecting itself to the
old wall, terminated at the valley called Kidron."
Now we have satisfactorily disposed of Psephinus and
tin- Monuments of Helena. So much, then, have we
-ained.
The Royal Caverns are also in the line of the wall.
Not far from the Tombs of the Kings, says a reliable
writer, is an offset from Jehoshaphat, in the rocky and
precipitous Bides of which are many highly ornamented
excavated tombs. These the writer considers the Royal
Caverns of Josephus; and position bears out the state-
ment. In another place bordering on the Kidron there is
a bold angle which suits admirably for the Tower of
Fuller's Tomb. Thus the hill along Kidron was the line
ANCIENT GATES. 365
of the wall; and thence to the city, as this part of the
ground offered natural advantages not to be overlooked
by any engineer. This wall was commenced under the
Emperor Claudius on a grand scale; but it was com-
pleted by the Jews in a much humbler style.
• As regards the Ancient Gates, little is known ; and, of
course, little can be said. From Nehemiah of the Old
Testament, and from Josephus, we learn more than from
any other authority. Many of the gates, of which men-
tion is made in those two writers, may have been identical,
though having different names. Be that as it may, the
whole number of which there is any notice at all is fifteen.
They are, to wit : Gates Gennath and Essenes of Jose-
phus; Sheep Gate, Fish Gate, Old Gate, Valley Gate,
Dung Gate, Fountain Gate, Water Gate, Horse Gate,
Gate Miphkad, Prison Gate, Gate of Ephraim, Corner
Gate, and Gate of Benjamin. Where these gates were
situated, we do not positively know ; only of one or two
can we point to their locality with anything like cer-
tainty.
Having considered the ancient, perhaps it would be as
well now to consider the modern topography of Jerusa-
lem. This plan may be better, too, as affording the
reader a comparative view of ancient and modern Jeru-
salem at a single glance — topographically speaking.
The present City of Jerusalem is nearly thirty miles
distant from the sea-coast, by an air line. It is situated
in 31° 46' 43" north latitude, and 35° 13' east longitude.
Its elevation above the Mediterranean, is a little over two
366 MODERN WALLS.
thousand feet, and above the Dead Sea, it is thirty-seven
hundred and Beveu feet.
The Ilol\ City has been known by several names,
ancient as well as modern; for instance, by Joshua and
other Old Testament writers it is called Jebus. It is called
b\ the Arabs El-Kuds — sometimes El-Khuds esh-Sherif —
the Latter two words meaning "Hu nobh! The city is
situated on a high rugged, rocky, irregular platform or
delta formed by the valleys of Ge-Henna and kidron.
The TyropaBon Valley, running to the south-east, Insects
the city, •• leaving a high ridge on each side."
Jerusalem is. in the words of the Psalmist and in truth,
"encompassed by mountains:** the Mount of Olives.
Mount Scopus, the Hill of Evil Counsel, and the jagged
dill's of the valleys, frown down from their black scoreh-
im: summits on the "widowed queen." It is a wild and
fearfully desolate-looking spot on which Jerusalem lies
now. comparatively deserted — withering under the curse
of Jehovah. A melancholy contrast she presents, to the
royal splendors that blazed over her, when Solomon held
his court within her walls. Where lordly piles arose in
rich profusion and spoke of the power and pride of the
princes of Israel, now filthy ruins and miserable hovels
cluster darkly together.
The modern walls of Jerusalem are, as I believe I have
Btated in another portion of this work, about two and a
third geographical miles in circuit; this includes every
angle and indentation. Some parts of this wall, as that
ming the Baram enclosure on the south-east, and the
rampart on the east, date much farther back than the
MODERN WALLS. 36'
remaining portions. The general wall, as it stands, is
the work of Suleiman, and was erected in 1542, a little
over three hundred years ago. The massive bevelled
stones, forming a portion of the Haram enclosure, place
that wall incontestably back to a period prior even to the
Christian era. The walls are high and, at a distance, im-
posing, yet they are far from being impregnable or even
strong. " A single discharge of heavy artillery would lay
them prostrate ; yet they are sufficient to keep in check
the roving Arab tribes and the turbulent peasantry."
There are clearly four sides to the walls, though they
are somewhat irregular. The straightest portion of the
whole work is that running along the high bluff over-
looking the Brook Kidron. The highest point in the
city, and from which a glorious view is to be had, is at
the north-west angle of the wall. Near this locality is a
heap of large stones, evidently once the foundation of
some mighty superstructure. This mass has been styled
the " Castle of Goliath ;" why, I know not, unless there
was a " hugeness in stature" in the castle. In fine, we
might say of the modern walls of Jerusalem, they present
no mark of especial interest, — are well preserved, and
require no study save that portion before mentioned — the
east wall of the Haram enclosure — which of itself, how-
ever, affords material in the shape of reflective food, suf-
ficient for any antiquarian.
The present gates — though most of them occupy, so
far as we are able to judge, the sites of the ancient gate-
wavs — are far fewer in number than the latter. In all,
of which we have any direct and distinct trace, there are
MolH'.KN G \T1 S.
B6ven — five open and two closed. The Golden Gate is
one of ilic Latter; 1 bave made repeated references to it.
It is situated in the eastern wall of the Haram. How
long it lias been closed 1 know not. The Arabs call it
Bdb ed-Dahartyeh, which means the " Eternal Gate."
Tip' other closed gate, generally known as "Herod's
(late." but bj the Arabs as Bdb ea-Zakery ("Gate of
Flowers"), is situated not far from the Damascus Gate,
on the northern side of the wall.
The live open gates are the Jatta Gate, Damascus Gate,
Dun- Gate. Gate of St. Stephen, and Zion Gate. Each
of these different gates are known by different names.
Thus the Jaffa Gate is the Bdb el-Kludil ("Hebron Gate"),
the Damascus Gate is the Bab el-Annul (" Gate of the
Column"), St. Stephen's Gate is Bab es-Subat ("Gate of
the Tribes"), and by native Christians "it is called Bab
Sitty-Mariam, 'the Gate of My Lady Mary"' (Porter).
The Dun-' Gate is also called Bab el-Mugharibeh ("the
Gate of the Western Africans"), and the Zion Gate is
likewise known as the Bab en-Neby Daud ("Gate of the
Prophet David").
The Jaffa Gate is situated in the western part of the
city, near Hippicus, and by it we enter the town from
the sea. It is a large, exceedingly massive gate, though
rather rude in architecture. It is kept open a half-hour
later than any other gate in the city, because there is
more going in and out by it, than by all the others
together. This is the main entrance from all the west-
ern country. It is sometimes also called "Bethlehem
Gate."
MODERN GATES. 369
The Damascus, though not the largest, is the most
highly ornamented and beautiful gate in the city. It is
in the northern wall, and the " Great North Road" leaves
Jerusalem, through it.
The use to which the Dung Gate was put (I say was,
because, since 1855, it has been closed), I know not, nor
do I think the name describes its use. There is no
road leading from it, if I may except a wretched path
leading to the equally wretched village of Siloam. Why
the gate was closed I could not learn. It was open until
Christmas, 1854 ; hence my reason for classing it as an
open gate. It is situated in the south of the city.
St. Stephen's Gate is in the eastern wall, not far from
the Haram enclosure. Through it we make our exit
when going to the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the Garden of
Gethsemane, or Mount Olivet. We also went to Jericho
through this gate. It is situated, I think, on the highest
bluff of the Valley of Jehoshaphat, and a fine view is to
be had from its summit.
The locality of the Zion Gate can be gathered from its
name. It is situated on the very edge of Mount Zion.
Not far from it is the Ccenaculum, beneath the floor of
which is David's Tomb. A melancholy, loathsome interest
is attached to this gate, from the fact that here cluster
those miserable outcasts, the lepers. There is a small
Armenian convent also near by.
As regards the population of the ancient city, in com-
parison with the modern, there exist several contradictory
statements, some to the effect that the former was more
than twice as large as the latter — others, that it was a
24
370 POPULATION OF JERUSALEM.
great muni/ times larger, &c, &c. From Josephus'e
Account, and Prom his measurement, a city <>f such a size,
aud ordinarily populated, could not hold more than
80,000 people, though, as Porter well remarks, the
inhabitants of eastern cities have a singular way of pack-
ing themselves, and everything else, away — a mode of
exemplifying, in a certain sense, the Latin, n nil turn in
parvo. Porter Bays, if Josephus is right in his assertions,
then, making due allowances, he thinks 90,000 a
good estimate. According to Josephus, Jerusalem was
thirty-three stadia (four Roman miles) in circuit. That
there were a great many more people above the number of
resident inhabitants, during seasons offcasts, there can be
no doubt. We learn from the Jewish historian, that, at
the time of the capture of the city by Titus, there were
not less than 2,700.000 souls in Jerusalem! of whom
1.100.000 perished. To this day, the population of the
city is always much increased, at the Easter and Christmas
holidays, and the valleys and hill-sides around Jerusalem
are dotted with the innumerable tents of the palmers.
Mich may have been the case during the Passover feasts,
to which Josephus refers. I consider Porter the very
besl authority extant, on this subject, and believe his
general estimate of 70.000, as the number of inhabitants
of ancient Jerusalem, as nearly correct — more so, at all
events, than the calculation of any other writer.
The presenl population of Jerusalem has been variously
ikoned also; some consider it as high as 30,000. It is
hardly as large. The following account, "carefully com-
piled by cue long resident in the city," is very reliable: —
HISTORY OF JERUSALEM. 371
Sects. Numbers.
Muslems ... 4000
Jews 6000
Greeks 1500
Latins 1200
Armenians ........••• 280
Syrians, Copts, and Abyssinians 150
Greek Catholics U°
Protestants 100
Total 13,340
Perhaps it would not be amiss here, to give a brief
history of Jerusalem, under each of the different rules to
which it has, in the course of time, acknowledged obedi-
ence. These rules are very distinctly three — the Jewish,
the Roman, and the Mohammedan. Would that I had
the ability to describe the various changes and tides of
existence through which Jerusalem has suffered and
smiled. Be that the task of others. I am content if I
can give the reader a skeleton outline of a subject which
might profitably employ his time and labor for years.
I will proceed in chronological order, and first notice
the city under the empire of its rightful lords, the Jews.
Jerusalem always has been, since it had an existence,
and always will be, the heaven-on-earth to the Jew.
Whatever has been his clime, whatever his fortune, his
face is ever turned toward the City of Peace, in silent,
suffering meditation. Go where you will — and even in
this, our day, wherever you find a true, down-trodden
son of the seed of Abraham, there you will find enshrined
in his heart, sweet and sacred associations of the City of
his father David.
372 BISTORT OF JERUSALEM.
David conquered the Jebusites, and with the fall of
Zion, and the subsequent instalment of the young harper
in the vacated throne, maj be said to have virtually and
really commenced the reign of the Jewish princes. This
rule existed with but Blight interruptions, down to the
time of the capture of Jerusalem 1>\ Titus, forty years
after the cruel death of the Son of God. Solomon laid
the corner-stone of the Great Temple on Mt. Moriah, a
building oi' which, from its gorgeous splendor, we speak
in this, our day, as if it was a created brilliancy of an
Arabian night's enchanting power, as if it existed but
yesterday. Thirty-seven years after the fall of the Jebu-
Bite castle, in the " Upper City" on Zion, Solomon com-
menced the uprearing of the stupendous edifice which
afterwards bore the monarch's name, " Solomon's Tem-
ple." and its fairy splendors seem even to us, I might
say. as familiar as " household words." It was in Solo-
mon- reign, that Jerusalem, the then newly-made Jewish
capital, reached the zenith of its power and dazzling
wealth, and it soon became the Mecca toward which
many curious pilgrims wended their way.
Time rolled on, however, and four hundred and fifty
rs after David took possession of the Jebusite Castle,
the Jews suffered a reverse and subsequent defeat by
Nebuchadnezzar. Then finally came the black night of the
Babylonish Captivity — a galling thraldom of fifty odd
year-. This Btate of national incarceration, as it might be
termed, was sorely borne by the Jews, for their city and
proud temple were now laid low in ruins. Cyrus, the
Persian, however, having come to the throne, liber-
HISTORY OF JERUSALEM. 373
ated the captives, who once again sought the desolate,
barren spot, where stood their beautiful city, in former
halcyon times, and where once towered their lordly Tem-
ple, its massive walls and minarets rising toward the sky.
Straightway they commenced to rebuild that Shrine they
so much revered, and twenty years of long but patient
toil elapsed before the work was completed. This was
the second Temple.
From this period until the time of Herod the Great, the
Jewish rule (all the time, however, till the conquest of
Alexander the Great, under the direction of a Persian
satrap) underwent several fortunes or misfortunes, more
properly speaking. In the quoted article on history in
another portion of this work, the reader will find the con-
tinued fortunes of the nation, fully treated. Herod was
made King of Judea, in the year b. c. 38. In spite of
his introduction of the most heathenish abominations, or
abominable heathenisms, he succeeded in building the
Temple up, in a style the most gorgeous, beautiful and
elegant ! so beautiful that the Apostles took Jesus, the
dweller in the mighty Temple of the skies, out to a com-
manding position, and bade Him look and behold its
beautiful proportions. It was then He prophesied that
" not one stone shall be left upon another ;" a prophecy,
which I saw myself, was literally fulfilled. Alas! for
thee, now lone Judea ! Thy gorgeous Temple is no-
where to be seen, but in its place, the haughty Mosque
of Omar, the Mohammedan Holiest of the Holies, flings
its huge shadow across the broad Court of the Temple
Area, and the turbanned Muslem sentinel, with hooked
.".7 I BISTORT OF JERUSALEM.
scimetar, pacing before the entrance, tells us that the glory
of [arael has departed :
••oh ! weep for those thai wepl \>\ Babel's Btream,
Whose -hriiios are desolate, w hose land a dream ;
\\ eep for the barp of Judah's broken sh«-l 1 ;
Mourn — where their God baa dwelt -the i^oJIchs dwell!"
CHAPTER XVIII.
/6S)hE ROMAN RULE.— This lasted from the con-
<§yip quest of Titus until the year 636, and was, in
q^O many senses, the most interesting of those reigns —
£p especially to the pilgrim or to the antiquarian,
In that reign pious Christians commenced flocking to the
Holy City in sacred pilgrimages, and, to meet their
cravings, many holy places were discovered or invented, —
far oftener the latter.
After the destruction of the city by the bloody Titus,
Jerusalem was suffered to remain for a number of years
in almost utter neglect and ruin — save indeed as regards
fortifications. The Roman general also allowed the three
large towers, of which I have spoken, to stand. At this
time, notwithstanding the teachings of Father Jerome,
there was not enough of the old city remaining, to have
deserved the name of " Remnants of the City." There
must have been a few miserable Jews lingering yet amid
the wreck of their fallen city, but not enough to warrant
any such supposition as that they inhabited a city called
Jerusalem as masters or slaves, from the time of the over-
throw, up to the rule of Adrian, who, if history be cor-
rect, at one time (a. d. 130), in chancing to visit Palestine,
found the Jews were plotting to throw off the Roman
(375)
376 BISTORT OF .1 K It US A L KM.
yoke, and banished mosl of them to Africa. In the
reign of Adrian. Jerusalem saw its most miserable and
degraded day. Profane mythological statues were pul up
in the city, the name of which was now changed to JElia
GapUolina, "in honor of Jupiter Capitolinus, whose lane
now occupied the place of the Jewish Temple. Tims
was the capital of Israel transformed into a pagan city,
with Jupiter as its patron God."
Prom this time to Constantine's reign Jerusalem does
indeed seem to be enveloped in the darkest obscurity.
In fact, nothing is known of it until the first Christian
emperor ascended his throne. About this time pilgrims
from other lands, in the ratio in which Christianity had
advanced, journeyed to the Holy Land, in hope by such
a pilgrimage to wash away some of their sins. Under
Constantine, the facilities for visiting Jerusalem were
much increased, and then first commenced the discovery
of holy places. Helena. Constantine's aged mother, did as
much toward this as any other person ; it was under her
direction that the Church of the Nativity was erected in
IVthlehem for the first time; likewise that of the Ascen-
Bion on the Mount of Olives; and finally That crowning
J'i"> of all the holies, about which so much good blood
has been shed, and so many controversies no less fiercely
waged. Very many holy sites followed in rapid succes-
sion, and very many were added to the Church of the
Ih.ly Sepulchre. To this remarkable building and its
locality I have referred in another place; suffice it then
to remark here — for I shall refer to this particular portion
of the subjeel again — that there exists very little, if in-
HISTORY OF JERUSALEM. 377
deed any, true basis for supposing the present edifice to
cover the tomb of the Saviour. If profane history is true
on this point, as it is of others of a coeval date, then fare-
well to the romance of the Church of the Sepulchre ! In
fact, at best, in view of certain indisputable accounts, it
is worse than folly to believe one iota concerning the
absurd local legends connected with the church.
As long as Constantine was emperor, the Jews, by his
permission, visited Jerusalem whenever they pleased,
and, by the direction of Julian the Apostate, they com-
menced the rebuilding of their idolized Temple, about the
year 362, but were deterred from completing it by divine
manifestations of a terrible nature. When Julian died,
their liberties were again restricted : " they were forbidden
to enter the city, except once a year, to weep over the
stones of the Temple. Then, probably, commenced that
affecting practice which the traveller can still witness at
the < Place of Wailing.' "
In the year 529, in the reign of Justinian, a church
was built to the Virgin, in the Haram enclosure. That
church was regularly dedicated to the Virgin, but became
ultimately, after many years, a Mohammedan mosk, and
is now known as el-Aksa. In the sixth century, the
Persians conquered the city, slew many of its inhabitants,
and burnt the Church of the Sepulchre to the ground.
Not many years elapsed, however, before Christian rule
was recognised. But fortune is fickle — she shuffles the
dice of destiny very strangely sometimes — the Christian
power was speedily broken, and then commenced a third
reign, which brings us to the
378 BISTORl OF JERUSALEM.
Mohammedan Ri lb. — Anno Domini 636, or thereabouts,
the celebrated KMiif, Omar, who has transmitted his
aame by Buch a Lasting monument as that which now
stands in the Temple area, appeared, with a large army,
before the walls of Jerusalem, which now acknowledged
Christian supremacy. Alter a Long and arduous siege,
and much suffering on both sides, the Christian forces at
Length capitulated, upon the terms " that their lives, their
property, and their churches should he secured to them.'
Omar, in general, was as good as his word. To perpetuate
hi- own glory, he gave orders for erecting, on the site of
the old Jewish Temple, a magnificent building. He,
himself, designed the work, hut it was reserved for Abdel
M> I, It to build tin- .Mosque of Omar. The church dedicated
to the Virgin, built by .Justinian, was changed, at this
time, into a mosque, and called el-Aksa. Until the middle
of the tenth century, those Khalifs and their descendants
held sway over Jerusalem. But just after this time, the
conquering Fatamites of Egypt extended their victorious
arms hitherward — gained Jerusalem, and became rulers
of the land. Then commenced in reality the persecutions
of the Christians and pilgrims. The climax of cruelty
was gradually reached in the reign of a Fatimite prince,
named el-Hakim, and then by the Seljukian Turks, in
the eleventh century. The cruelties practised towards
the poor Christians were nowr at their height — their
oppression was severe. And now, 'pushed into life, as it
were, -prang the Crusades. The times called for them —
they were necessary, perhaps, and ordained by Almighty
(, ,{ — though many writers and commentators on the
HISTORY OF JERUSALEM. 379
subject, remain ignorant of the beneficial effect of these
Holy Wars. Peter the Hermit, with a praiseworthy
zeal, went to Jerusalem, and saw for himself the wrongs
perpetrated on Christian palmers. He could not endure
it ; but hastened home, and, by his thrilling appeals, he
awakened the chivalry of all Europe. He led, in person,
the first Crusade.
I have read of another origin of the Crusades ; or
rather, I should say, for I am too fast, — that, as a reason
for the existence of the orders of the Knights Templars,
and of St. John, — the frequent unprovoked attacks by
bandits on the palmers, in the rocky defiles between
Jerusalem and Jericho, has been given. The Knights
Templars received their title, it seems, from the fact that
in 1119, they lodged in the Royal Palace adjoining the
Temple.
After surmounting many difficulties, the Crusaders con-
quered Jerusalem, in 1099. This triumph was complete,
and for eighty-eight years their sway was undisputed.
They made many additions to the city, among others was
the complete rebuilding of the Church of the Sepulchre.
in a style of great splendor and richness. At the expira-
tion of eighty-eight years, however, the city fell a prey
to Saladin's victorious arm, and then the city underwent
much spoliation and mutilation. In 1229, the Christians
once more obtained possession of Jerusalem, but this time
by treaty. A few years afterwards it was again taken
from them vi et armis. « Four years later, the Christians
again obtained possession, but in a few months (a. d.
1243), they were driven out for the last time; and the
180 RELIGIOUS SECTS.
Holv City haa ever since remained under the sway of the
haughty Muslem."
A- regards the religioruof Jerusalem, or the representor
Hvea of different religions, little need be said here, as
what I have written in the pages, introductory to the
Journal, of the religions of Syria and Palestine, applies
equally here. 1 shall, therefore, simply enumerate the
different sects, and make a few remarks upon them. The
religious orders are three, to wit : — Mohammedans, Jews,
and Christians; that is, Greeks, Latins, Armenians, Geor-
gians, Copts, and Syrians, and what we consider Chris-
tians proper, that is, Protestants. The Mohammedans are
> rally or chiefly natives of Syria; they outnumber
any other sect. The Jews rank next, in point of num-
bers. They are divided by a schism, and are known in
two classes : the Askenn*'uit and the Sephardim. The
latter have the greatest number of members, but the
ranks of the first, who are generally foreign Jews, are
rapidly filling. There is more poverty and abjection
among the Jews, particularly among the Askenasim, than
in any other sect in the country.
Among the so-called Christian sects — so-called, I say,
'■.■cause they are Christian solely inname, — the most deadly
animosity existing between them and the other sects — the
eks have the largest number. They are the most
( ipulent also, and very naturally the most powerful. They
have eight convents and five nunneries in Jerusalem ;
these, they own the neighboring convents of " Mar
Saba, Mar Elias, the convent of the nativity at Bethle-
hem, and the convent of the Cross." The Latins rank
RELIGIOUS SECTS. 381
next, numerically speaking, amounting to thirteen hun-
dred souls. Like the Mohammedans, they are mostly
native. How these Latins manage to clothe themselves,
and by what means gain a living, is more than I can
understand. The wise St. Jerome was the most cele-
brated of the Latins that ever lived in Syria, and his
influence gave a powerful impetus to his religion there.
The first regular monastery they held, was Sancta Maria
de Latina. It afterwards became the " Hospital of the
Knights of St. John," to which I have referred. There
are now fourteen large convents in Syria, which, to the
tourist, present indeed " oases in the desert," for in them
he generally can find a home and an asylum.
The Armenians, who own the splendid convent on Mt.
Zion, which I have previously mentioned, and the really
gorgeous Church of St. James, which our party visited,
number nearly three hundred. They are foreigners,
generally speaking, and number some of the most learned
men in Jerusalem. They are humble, and very polite in
manner ; in fact, this trait seems to be characteristic of
them everywhere. I noticed it at the Armenian convent
in the Lagoon, at Venice.
The Copts and Syrians own one or two small convents.
They are few in number. The Georgians, once the
richest and most influential Christian sect in Jerusalem,
now scarcely have an existence.
Besides these sects, there is a Protestant community,,
numbering about one hundred members. Samuel Gobat,
D. D., an able divine, a learned scholar, and a good man,
is Bishop; the service being Church of England. There
382 w i M PORT \ N r QU BSTION.
is an English chapel attached to the Consulate, and ser-
vices arc there performed regularly, in Spanish, English,
and German. There is also in the city, I believe, a Pro-
testant "Jews' Society," also a Prussian " Protestant So-
eietv." 1 think services are held at the house of Dr.
Barclay . every Sabbath.
I might a- well, in this place, consider that important
question, one which has vexed so many able writers, and
harassed still more the upholders, of certain religious
faiths, tfa gt nuineness of the Church of the Sepulchre. The
identity of the present site, with the actual place of the
Saviour's sepulture, rests, to say the least, on a very shallow
bads, a basis far from being sufficient for a plausible foun-
dation. The refutation of all arguments, which go to
establish said identity, turns chiefly on the correct course
of the second wall (the one which encircled Akra) ; in
other words, on the position of the hill Akra itself. We
know from the testimony of the different Gospels, that
Jesus was crucified without the gates, "nigh to the city."
This was the ancient city, moreover, whose walls were
much more extensive than those of the present. We also
know that He was laid in a sepulchre in a garden near
the spot of crucifixion, or at the place itself (John xix.
41-42). As I said above, we well know from the writings
of Josephus and others, and also from the revealed testi-
mony of discovered substructures, that the ancient walls
extended in greater circuit than, in other words, included
the present walls. "Without the gate," and "nigh unto
the city," cannot, and did not mean, inside the walls.
There can exist no rain,, ml doubt to the supposition that the
AN IMPORTANT QUESTION. 383
Church of the Sepulchre stands within the third wall, built
by Agrippa, eleven years after the crucifixion. This
wall was built to enclose the suburbs which had sprung
up, and suburbs cannot, by any stretch of translation, be
made to signify nigh to the City. The phraseology would
have been different had such been the aim of the Evange-
lists. "Nigh unto the city," means any distance, com-
paratively. But the upholders of the genuineness of the
Tomb of Jesus make the geographical or topographical
position of Akra different from that which I have given
(and others, more learned, give). They reverse Akra
from beside Zion, to the ridge extending from the Haram
to the Grotto of Jeremiah, and make the sacred wall
start from a point nearly half-way between the citadel
and the Haram, run north along the covered bazaar until
it just clears the east end of the Church of the Sepulchre,
then turns a little to the west, so as to include the ancient
foundations around the Damascus Gate." If we admit
that such is true, in the words of another, " it would yet
not be very easy to believe, that such a singular angle as
is thus made to run into the very heart of the city,
should have been wholly free from buildings, and used as
a place of ordinary sepulture, so late as the time of the cru-
cifixion ; and that only eleven years afterwards, Agrippa
should have found it necessary to build a wall a quarter
of a mile beyond it, so as to include the suburbs."
But without all of these words and well-based arguments,
I think the whole matter may be conscientiously settled
thus : — make it a question, as to ivhether the old walls
enclosed, the space of the present. There exists not the
18 \ \ N l M POB MM' QB ES riON.
slightest doubt hut that they did, as we find substructions
beyond the Line of the present north-western walls, which
includes that Bide) any way — and thai is all we wish, for
the Church o[' tla> Sepulchre is in that portion of the
city, and Lies not only within the ancient ruined wall, but
also within, as we all know, the present enclosure of the
city. Again, it is not doubted but that the very ancient
Pool of lle/.ekiah. not far from the Tower of llippieus,
ami within the present wall, was enclosed by tJu ancient
wall. Singular, indeed, must have been the angle which
included it. and excluded the Church of the Sepulchre.
But waiving all this, is it not a little singular that the
place of the " honored dead," such as Jesus Christ, should
remain unmentioned by the apostles? We never hear
of pious pilgrims journeying to it, in the days of Matthew,
Mark, Luke, and John — and John, wrote at least eighty
years after the curtain closed on the last scene of the
Drama of Redemption. And Paul, though in Jerusalem
Beveral times after the crucifixion, never once refers to
the scene of the Saviour's passion. He never visited it —
or, if he did, he attached so little importance to the circum-
stance, that he did not record it. Singular again, it is, too,
that this holy spot should have been so well remembered,
without even a tradition to transmit it to posterity for
over three hundred years! The chequered history of
Jerusalem, under Jewish and Roman rule, did not tend
to facilitate or foster the remembrance of sacred localities.
Recalling, too, the different vicissitudes through which
th<- Holy City has passed — what its different inhabitants
suffered and acted — a simple recollection in this direction
AN IMPORTANT QUESTION. 385
will tell us it is absurd to believe that the site of the
Holy Sepulchre could be determined after the long lapse
of three hundred years. Truly, they could then keep
secrets better than those of the present generation. Still
more absurd it is to believe in the instrumentality of
divine agency, concerned in indicating these spots,
although this is well made use of by the holy fathers ;
and if we would believe every monkish legend told us,
then to believe that the present roof of the Church of
the Sepulchre covers the sarcophagus in which Jesus'
body once rested, would not require much persuasion —
it would be natural. But — a grave but, too — common sense
most claims its votaries ; they outnumber, I am thinking,
those who believe in the sepulchre and its identity. On
this subject we have Eusebius (about the earliest), Sozo-
mon, and Theodoret ; they all uphold the genuineness of
the Sepulchre, but they contradict one another, even as
regards the founder of the first edifice on the hallowed
spot, one saying that it was Constantine, the other two,
that it was that Emperor's mother, Helena ; the discovery
of the holy places and sacred objects of wonder, the
crown of thorns, the crosses, &c, &c, being attributed to
the latter, also. Be this as it may, the whole pack of
legends, each and every one, separately and collectively,
all rightly judging, conscientious persons, must regard in
the same light as they do the exploit of the fiery Phoe-
bus and his sun-chariot steeds, — as a myth. Fain would
we believe everything told us, word for word, consistent
with Christian feelings, for, "could we guarantee the
genuineness of the site, no spot in Jerusalem would be
25
Till: BOLT FIRE.
more deeplj interesting than the Holy Sepulchre." The
association, indeed, would be overpowering, could we stand
over thai rock coffin, and Bay, "Hen owe fay in the still-
s of death, Jesus Christ, th Son of Man." With this
brief notice we pass the subject by.
Perhaps it would be as well in this place to mention
tin- wondrous (?) appearance of the Holy Fire from the
tomb of the Saviour on Easter-eve — a fire which comes
from heaven. — (broughtbya Greek priest) ; to which, who-
soever can apply " his smoking flax" is a regenerated soul,
guaranteed the privileges and immunities of Paradise!
How this singular mystery (?) commenced is not known;
but 1 believe it was in this wise: — Long years ago there
was need of oil for filling the lamps which overhung
the tomb of the Saviour. In this hour of need an angel
appeared, and very kindly, after filling the lamps, lit
them with celestial fire ! Ever since that time there has
been a periodical appearance of the sacred flame. Thou-
sands of waxen tapers are now yearly manufactured for
the occasion, and are ever -old to a ready, even greedy,
market. Every one who can apply his taper to the holy
flame is sure of a shining crown in the heavenly realms!
Somewhat singular, however, it is, that the Divine Power
Bhould need just a little assistance from the worthy Greek
Patriarch. Me always first enters the tomb, and then the
flame speedily issues forth! Bloody times are frequently
included in the programme; and untold evils are the
natural sequences of this most flagrant imposture. It
was to witness the l«,hj fire ceremony that our good friend
THE HOLT FIRE. 387
Montag, the valiant " Hussar," who figures in the Journal,
remained in Jerusalem.
It seems that, at first, this humbugging ceremony was
entered into and observed by all the sects or churches in
Jerusalem. Owing, however, to a rupture between the
Latins and Greeks, the former denounced the whole
affair as a trickery, and exposed the gross imposition.
Then followed the Armenians, who always regarded the
affair as a base fraud. And even the heads of the Greek
Church, who alone continue the observance of the cere-
mony, wish to cease with the annual exhibitions ; but they
fear " the shock which this step would give to the devo-
tion and faith of the thousands, who yearly come, far and
near, over land and sea, for this sole object."
I take from Porter the following graphic description of
the ceremonies of the occasion. It is by the elegant
writer, Mr. Stanley : —
" The Chapel of the Sepulchre rises from a dense mass
of pilgrims, who sit or stand wedged around it ; whilst
round them, and between another equally dense mass,
which goes round the walls of the church itself, a lane is
formed by two lines, or rather two circles, of Turkish
soldiers, stationed to keep order. For the spectacle which
is about to take place, nothing can be better suited than
the form of the rotunda, giving galleries above for the
spectators, and an open space below for the pilgrims and
their festival. For the first two hours everything is tran-
quil. Nothing indicates what is corning, except that two
or three pilgrims, who have got close to the aperture, keep
their hands fixed in it, with a clinch never relaxed. It
388 THE H0L1 FIRE.
is about noon that this circular lane is suddenly broken
through, l>\ a tangled group rushing violently round till
the} are caught by one of the Turkish soldiers. It, seems
to be the belief of the Arab Greeks that unless they
run round the sepulchre a certain number of times, the
tire will not come. Possibly, also, there is some strange
reminiscence of the former games and races round the
tomb of their ancient chief. Accordingly, the night
before, and from this time forward, for two hours, a
succession of gambols takes place, which an Englishman
can only compare to a mixture of prisoner's base, foot-
hall, and Leap-frog, round and round the Holy Sepulchre.
First he sees those tangled masses of twenty, thirty, fifty
men, starting in a run, catching hold of each other, lifting
one of themselves on their shoulders, sometimes on their
heads, and rushing on with him till he leaps off, and
some one else succeeds. Some of them dressed in sheep-
skins, some almost naked, one usually preceding the rest
as a fugleman, clapping his hands, to which they respond
in like manner, adding also wild howls, of which the
chief burden is — -This is the tomb of Jesus Christ — God
save the Sultan — Jesus Christ has redeemed us!' What
begins in the lesser groups soon grows in magnitude and
extent, till at last the whole of the circle between the
troops is continually occupied by a race, a whirl or
torrent of these wild figures, like the witches' sabbath in
'Faust/ wheeling round the sepulchre. Gradually the
frenzy subsides, or is checked, the course is cleared, and
out of tie' Greek ('lunch, on the east of the rotunda, a
long procession, with embroidered banners, supplying in
THE HOLY FIRE. 389
this ritual the want of images, begins to defile round the
sepulchre.
" From this moment the excitement, which has been
before confined to the runners and dancers, becomes
universal. Hedged in by soldiers, the two huge masses
of pilgrims still remain in their places, all joining, how-
ever, in a wild succession of yells, through which are
caught, from time to time, strangely, almost affectingly
mingled, the chants of the procession, the solemn eh ants
of the church of Basil and Chrysostom, mingled with the
yells of savages. Thrice the procession passes round ; and
the third time the two lines of Turkish soldiers join and
fall in behind. One great movement sways the multitude
from side to side. The crisis of the day is now approach-
ing. The presence of the Turks is believed to prevent
the descent of fire, and at this point it is that they are
driven, or consent to be driven, out of the church. In a
moment the confusion as of a battle and a victory per-
vades the church. In every direction the raging mob
bursts in upon the troops, who pour out of the church at
the south-east corner. The procession is broken through
— the banners stagger and waver. They stagger, and
waver, and fall, amidst the flight of priests, bishops, and
standard-bearers, hither and thither before the tremen-
dous rush. In one small but compact band the Bishop
of Petra (who is on this occasion the Bishop of ' the Fire,'
the representative of the patriarch), is hurried into the
chapel of the sepulchre, and the door is closed behind
him. The whole church is now one heaving sea of heads.
One vacant spot alone is left — a narrow lane from the
mi: BOLT FIRE.
aperture on the north side of the chape] to the wall of
the church. By the aperture itself stands a priesl to
catch the fire. On each side of the lane hundreds of
bare anus arc stretched out like the branches of a leaf-
less forest — like the branches of a forest quivering in
some violent tempest At last the moment comes.
A bright Same, as of burning wood, appears inside the
hole — tlie light, as ever} educated Greek knows and
acknowledges, kindled by the bishop within — the tight,
as every pilgrim believes, of the descent of God Himself
upon the holy tomb. Any distinct feature or incident is
lost in the universal whirl of excitement which envelops
the church, as slowly, gradually, the fire spreads from hand
to hand, from taper to taper, through that vast multitude
— till at last the whole edifice, from gallery to gallery,
and through the area helow. is one wide blaze of thou-
sands of burning candles. It is now that, according to
some accounts, the bishop or patriarch is carried out of
the chapel in triumph, on the shoulders of the people, in
a fainting state, • to give the impression that he is over-
come by the glory of the Almighty, from whose imme-
diate presence he is believed to come.' It is now that
the great rush to escape from the rolling smoke and suf-
focating heat, and to carry the lighted tapers into the
streets and houses of Jerusalem, through the one entrance
to the church, leads ;it times to the violent pressure which,
in 1834, cost the lives of hundreds. For a short time the
pilgrims run to and fro, rubbing their faces and breasts
ust tii'- lire, to attest its supposed harmlessness. But
tii" wild enthusiasm terminates from the moment that
THE HOLT FIRE. 391
the fire is communicated; and, perhaps, not the least
extraordinary part of the spectacle is the rapid and total
subsidence of a frenzy so intense — the contrast of the
furious agitation of the morning with the profound repose
of the evening, when the church is once again filled —
through the area of the Rotunda, the chapels of Copt and
Syrian, the subterranean Church of Helena, the great
nave of Constantine's basilica, the stairs and platform of
Calvary itself, with the many chambers above — every
part, except the one chapel of the Latin Church, filled
and overlaid by one mass of pilgrims, wrapt in deep
sleep, and waiting for the midnight service.
" Such is the Greek Easter — the greatest moral argu-
ment against the identity of the spot which it professes
to honor — stripped indeed of some of its most revolting
features, yet still, considering the place, the time, and the
intention of the professed miracle, probably the most
offensive imposture to be found in the world."
The following by Curzon, taken from the same author,
shows the dangers and riots sometimes attendant on the
" Fire" exhibition : —
" The guards outside, frightened at the rush from
within, thought that the Christians wished to attack them,
and the confusion soon grew into a battle. The soldiers
with their bayonets killed numbers of fainting wretches,
and the walls were spattered with blood and brains of
men who had been felled, like oxen, with the butt-ends of
the soldiers' muskets. Every one struggled to defend
himself, and, in the melee, all who fell were immediately
trampled to death by the rest. So desperate and savage
392 THE in 'i.v FIRE.
did the light become, that even the panic-struck and
frightened pilgrims appeared at last to have been more
intent udod the destruction of each other than desirous
to Bave themselves. For niv part, as soon as I had per-
ceived the danger, I had cried out to my companions to
turn hack, which they had done; but I myself was car-
ried on by the press, till I came near the door, where all
were fighting tor their Lives. Here, seeing certain destruc-
tion before me. 1 made every endeavor to get back. An
officer of the pacha's, equally alarmed with myself, was
also trying to return; he caught hold of my cloak, and
pulled me down on the body of an old man who was
breathing out his last sigh. As the officer was pressing
me to the ground, we wrestled together among the dying
and the dead with the energy of despair. I struggled
with this man till 1 pulled him down, and happily got
again upon my legs (I afterwards found that he never
rose again), and, scrambling over a pile of corpses, I
made my wa\ back into the body of the church
The dead were lying in heaps, even upon the Stone of
Unction ; and I saw full four hundred wretched people,
dead and dying, heaped promiscuously one upon another,
in -nine places live feet high."
To the Hospital of St. John I have referred sufficiently
fully in my Journal ; and I shall therefore now consider,
as briefly as possible, the Temple of old, and the present
llaram area.
Tie- site of the ancient Jewish Temple is a matter of
dispute: that it was situated on the very summit of
Mount Moriah. where stands at this dav, the noble edifice
THE TEMPLE. 393
— the Mosque of Omar — we have many reasons to believe.
Yet it is pretty certain that the Temple area corresponded
very accurately with the present Haram enclosure, with
this exception — the Haram area is larger and is oblong,
the Temple area being six hundred feet square.
The first building of the Temple, its successive
destructions and rebuildings, and its final complete
demolishment, I have given before. It is useless in this
place to refer to that portion again. I copy from a
reliable author the following condensed history of the
Temple from Josephus. The author from whom I copy
gives it as nearly as possible in the language of Dr.
Robinson : —
" The Temple was situated on a rocky eminence.
Originally the level space on the summit scarcely sufficed
for the sanctuary and the altar, the sides being every-
where steep and precipitous. But Solomon, who built
the sanctuary, having completely walled up the eastern
side of the hill, built a colonnade on the embankment.
On the other three sides the sanctuary remained exposed.
In process of time, however, as the people were constantly
adding to the embankment, the hill became level and
broader. They also threw down the northern wall, and
enclosed as much ground as the circuit of the Temple
subsequently occupied. After having surrounded the hill
from the base with a triple wall, and accomplished a
work which surpassed all expectation — a work on which
long ages were consumed, and all their sacred treasures
exhausted, though replenished by the tribute offered to
.",'.i| THE TEMPLE.
God from every region of the world — the} built the upper
boundary walla and the lower courl of the Temple.
"The lowest part of the latter they buill up from a depth
of three hundred cubits, and in some places more. The
entire depth of the foundations, however, was not discerni-
ble; for, with a view to level the streets of the town,
they filled up the ravines to a considerable extent.
There were stones used in this building which measured
forty cubits; for so ample was the supply ol* money, and
Buch the zeal of the people, that incredible Buccess
attended the undertaking; and that of which hope itself
could not anticipate the accomplishment, was by time and
perseverance completed.
•• Nor was the superstructure unworthy of such founda-
tions. The colonnades, double throughout, were supported
by pillars twenty-live cubits high, each a single block of
white marble. The ceilings were of panelled cedar.
The colonnades (or cloisters) were thirty cubits wide, and
their entire circuit, including Antonia, measured six
stadia. The open court was covered with tessellated
pavement. As you advanced through this to the second
court, you came to a stone balustrade, drawn all round,
three cubits high, and of exquisite workmanship. On
this st, ,oil tablets at regular intervals, some in Greek,
others in Latin, indicating that no foreigner was permitted
to pass this boundary. Within the barrier you ascended
by fourteen steps to a level terrace, ten cubits wide.
encircling the wall of the inner court, and from this
terrace jive steps more led to the inner court, which was
Burrounded by a wall forty cubits high on the outside,
THE TEMPLE. 895
but only twenty-five within. The principal gate of the
inner court was on the east ; but there were also three on
the north and three on the south, to which were after-
wards added three others for women.
" Within the second court was the third or most sacred
enclosure, which none but the priests might enter ; con-
sisting of the Temple itself, and the small court before it,
where stood the great altar. To this there was an ascent
from the second court by twelve steps. It was this Naos
alone which was rebuilt by Herod; who also built over
again some of the magnificent cloisters around the area.
But no mention is made of his having had anything to
do with the massive walls of the exterior enclosure. In
the centre of the southern side of the outer court was a
double gate, probably for the use of the Nethinims who
dwelt in Ophel. On its western side were four gates ;
one opening on the bridge that connected the Temple
with the Xystus and royal palace ; two opening into the
suburb, perhaps in the upper part of the Tyropseon ; and
one leading to a road which crossed a valley to Akra.
There was no gate either on the east or north side."
From this account, we see that the Temple area must
have been what is the present Haram area — with the
exception as taken above. What is singularly interesting
to the antiquarian is the fact, that the walls which to
this day surround the Haram are undoubtedly of a very
great age. We have no reason to think that Herod
improved them in the slightest or disturbed them at all.
There are stones in these walls, which, from certain signs,
396 THK TEMPLE.
make us think thai the} were put where they now stand
even in the da] a of Solomon.
In the circuil of the walls — the northern, southern,
eastern, and western — there are several antiquities of
which one ought well take note: to several of them I
have before referred, and shall simply glance al them now.
The walls of the Haram — though irregular like the walls
o( the city, yet, like the latter, four sides fronting the
cardinal points — can be easily determined. All four of
the walls show, in the massive and peculiarly bevelled
-tones used in their erection, an age dating back far be-
yond the Christian; and these walls are evidently those
of the Ancient Temple to the Most High, on Mount
Moriah. Some of the stones, particularly in the west
wall, are of enormous magnitude, some measuring thirty
feet in length, twelve wide, and five thick. How they
were arranged in sifi/, is a mystery to us. If I mistake
not, the only stones superior to them in size are those
amid the ruins of Ba'albeck, and those cannot surpass
them much.
Commencing, then, at the west wall, and running its
entire length. I shall only notice as its most interesting
antique feature, besides the wall itself, the ancient Bridge.
This bridge is no doubt a genuine relic of those by-gone
days of times prim* to the Christian Era; in fact, I believe
there are none who cavil about its antiquity. The bridge,
as it stood in all its beauty, was a massive structure,
indeed, with its five noble arches; its whole length to Zion,
whither it led, being three hundred and fifty feet. The
ties which remain of it to this day, indicate that it was
THE TEMPLE. o97
a most magnificent and solid monument of art. All that
remains of the bridge at this day, " are three corners of
huge stones projecting from the wall (west), and forming
a segment of an arch''' This, then, is that bridge by
which " dwellers on Zion were wont to pass over to the
Holy Mount to worship God in His Sanctuary. Across
it the kings and princes of Israel proceeded in state, to
pay their vows to the Lord. And when the Temple was
burned to the ground, and the sanctuary polluted by the
' abomination of desolations,' Titus took his stand proba-
bly over the very spot where these stones now spring from
the ancient wall, to make a last appeal to the remnant
of tl^e Jews to save themselves from further carnage, by
submission to Roman arms." It is, to say the least, a
most interesting link to past times.
In the southern walls we find the same massive, bevel-
led stones in several tiers, proving it of the same charac-
ter and ancient date as the western. In this wall we find
several arches, but of Roman architecture, and probably
filling the places of ancient portals. But five hundred
and fifty feet from the eastern corner, we come to what is
really the most interesting feature in the whole Haram
wall. It is not far from the junction of the city — with the
Haram wall. This relic is the " section of an arch, some-
what resembling in style and ornament that of the Golden
Gate. The remaining portion of the arch is covered by
the city wall; but just under the part exposed is a small
grated window, rather difficult of access, through which
we get a dim view of a long subterranean avenue, leading
up an inclined ylane and flight of steps to the Haram area.
Til i i i: m ri.r.
'riii- is one of the most remarkable pieces of antiquity in
the whole of this noble structure. It is neither an easy
nor a pleasant task, however, thoroughly to examine it;
for Burly peasants without, ami jealous black guards
'Jcguards we might safely call them) within the 1 la-
ram, arc apt to annoy, if not abuse, the explorer. Thanks,
however, to the enterprising spirit and skilful pencil of
Mr. Tipping, we are able to form an accurate idea of the
avenue, and the gateway opening- into it, without, the
trouble of actual inspection. It is now wholly covered,
with the exception of tin1 section referred to, on the
east side, by the modern building in which the city
wall here terminates. In this building are two cham-
bers adjoining the Haram, one of which is accessible from
within the city wall. Entering the latter, Mr. Tipping
got to the inner one through a broken part of a partition
wall (since built up) ; and from it he found an opening
through the ancient gateway, to the long subterranean
passage. This ancient gateway is double, and its total
breadth is forty-two feet. It is divided by a rectangular
pier, eight feet broad and fourteen deep, having a semi-
column on the inner end. This central pier, and the
whole eastern and western jambs, are built of bevelled
-•on «, <»f great size, highly finished, and manifestly of
the oldest type. The ornamental arches are stuck on;
and the small columns which now stand on each side of
tie- double entrance, are of modern date, having no
inection with the ancient work. Within the gate is ;i
kind of entrance-hall, sixty-three feet long by forty-two
wide; in the centre of which is a huge dwarf-column,
THE TEMPLE. 399
twenty-one feet high and six and a half in diameter — a
single stone including the capital. The capital is peculiar,
bearing traces of a perpendicular palm-leaf ornament,
which, Mr. Ferguson says, is at least as old as the time
of Herod. The roof is vaulted, of fine workmanship;
the flattish arches springing from the central monolith
and piers, and from pilasters at the sides. Its date cannot
be ascertained, but it is probably of the time of Herod.
Mr. Tipping's description of the interior is most important.
' The broad division between the arches consists of bevelled
stones of cyclopean dimensions. The sides of the long
passage (north of the hall) are also built of huge, roughly
bevelled stones ; but the walls of the hall are, apparently,
plain and Roman, though of great size. This seeming
anomaly perplexed me for a long time; but at length,
and while examining these side walls closely, I ascertained,
from visible traces, that it (they) had been bevelled ! but
that, in order to construct side pilasters corresponding
with the central pillar, and bearing the two arches spring-
ing from it, the bevelling had been chiselled away; thus
affording a slight relief to the pilaster.' Some of the
stones in these walls are thirteen feet Ions.
" At the northern end of this hall there is a rise in the
floor of several feet, up the western section of which is a
flight of steps. From hence the vaulted passage con-
tinues, with a gentle ascent, two hundred feet ; a range
of square ancient piers supporting the roof. From the
upper extremity of the eastern aisle, as we may call it, a
broad staircase leads up to the Haram area, opening about
thirty feet in front of the Mosk-el-Aksa. The pier at the
tOO THE TEMPLE.
upper end of tin* hall lias a Bemi-column on each end;
and next to it. northward, instead of a pier, is a mono-
lithic column.
"Josephus states, as we have seen, that the southern
side iif the Temple area "had gates about the middle'
teov). The easy and natural explanation of
which language IS, that there was a double gateway in
the southern wall; and accordingly the double gateway
still exists, affording proof no less of the accuracy of the
historian, than of the identity of this section of the
Baram with the ancient Temple area. The peculiarities
too in the architecture, and the many changes which have
been made in it, seem to lead us back to ages long prior
to the days of Joseph us or Herod, perhaps to the time of
Solomon himself, of whose buildings it is said in Scrip-
ture that they were 'of costly stones, according to the
measures of hewed stones, sawed with saws, within and
without, even from the foundation unto the coping. And
the foundation was of costly stones, even great stones ; stones
of h n cubits and stones of eight cubits' (1 Kings vii. 9, 10).
•■ With the west side of this noble gateway which is
enclosed in a vaulted chamber of Saracenic work, the
bevelled masonry ceases ; and up to the south-west corner
we have a lofty wall of uniform and excellent workman-
.-hip. apparently all of the later Roman age. At the
corner we again meet with colossal stones, bevelled edges
and smooth-hewn faces. The ground descends rapidly
from the junction of the city wall to this place, and thus
reveals lower courses of masonry which are carried round
the angle like those on the south-east."
THE TEMPLE. 401
In the eastern wall to the Haram the most remarkable
feature is the celebrated Golden Gate, to which I have
referred so fully in another place, that I consider it use-
less to speak of it again.
In the northern side there is another most interesting
reminiscence of times long agone. It is situated between
the pacha's residence and the east end of the wall. It is
" one of the most remarkable excavations in the city, and
one, too, of great importance in a topographical point of
view. It is a vast fosse or tank, three hundred and sixty
feet long, one hundred and thirty broad, and seventy-five
deep. It was doubtless much deeper, for the bottom is
encumbered by the accumulated rubbish of centuries.
That it was at one time used as a reservoir is evident
from the fact that the sides have been covered with small
stones and a thick coating of cement. It stretches along
the side of the Haram wall eastward to within a few feet
of the city wall south of St. Stephen's Gate. The west-
ern end is built up and coated like the rest except at the
south-west corner, where are the openings of two high-
arched vaults, which extend westward side by side under
the modern houses. The southern one is twelve feet
wide and the other nineteen. They are both nearly filled
up with rubbish, a heap of which lies in the fosse before
them ; yet Dr. Robinson was able to measure to the dis-
tance of 100 feet within the northern one, and it appeared
to extend much farther. This gives the whole excava-
tion as far as explored a length of four hundred and sixty
feet, nearly one-half of the entire breadth of the Haram.
The remarks of Dr. Robinson on this great work I a^ree
26
102 tin: temple.
with: "1 hold it probable that this excavation was
anciently carried quite through the ridge of Bezetha
along the northern side of Antonia to its north-west
corner; thus forming the deep trench which (Josephus
informs us) separated the fortress from the adjacenl hill.
This (western) part was naturally filled up by the
Romans under 'Titus, when they destroyed Antonia, and
built up their approaches in this quarter against the
Temple.'
•• The approach to this great fosse is from St. Stephen's
Gate. A narrow path leads along its eastern end. close
to the city wall, to a portal opening on the Haram called
Bdb es-Subdt, ' the Gate of the Tribes.' The monks call
the fosse Bethesda, and also the Sheep Pool; thus making
it the site of the interesting story related in John v. 2-9 :
• Now there is at Jerusalem by the sheep market (or gate,
Neh. iii. 1), a pool, which is called in the Hebrew tongue
Bethesda, having five porches.' The two arches in the
western end they identify with two of the 'five porches.'
There is not a shadow' of evidence, however, for this tra-
dition."
CHAPTER XIX.
AVING thus spoken of the relics of antiquity in
]J^') the course of the four walls, I would mention
J$p that the three objects most deserving attention
Q) inside the Haram area are the celebrated Kubbet-
es-Sukhrah or Mosque of Omar, Mosque el-Aksa, and the
site of the Fortress of Antonia, to all of which, save the
latter, repeated reference has been made ; and as so many
arguments, pro and con, have been advanced concerning
the identity of the last, there exists too much confusion
for me to say anything more on a subject of which I know
comparatively nothing. My opinion is embodied in these
few words : I believe the Fortress of Antonia, of which
Josephus speaks, occupied a section of the northern wall.
There is much that could be said of the different tombs
of note, sacred and historic, which cluster everywhere
in the valleys, and on the hillsides of the Holy City,
which would be interesting, I think, to traveller, theo-
logian, and general reader. The space of this volume
forbids anything like an extended notice of this sub-
ject. Having referred rather minutely in my Journal,
to the Pillar of Absalom, Tombs of Zechariah, St. James,
and Jehoshaphat, I pass them by without a notice, and
shall consider briefly others of as much interest, to which,
(403)
Hi THE TOMB OF DAVID.
from the crowded state of mv Journal, I have made no
reference.
The most interesting, in many points of view, of these
tombs, is thai of David: we know from Scripture, that
David and his house (not literally Bpeaking) were buried
in Zion. The French explorer, M. de Saulcy, thinks this
a mistake — the Book of Books notwithstanding. As
Porter very curtly Bays, however, "most persons will
prefer the testimony of Scripture to the theory of a
Frenchman." At the time of the writing of the Acts of
the Apostles, we have full and decided evidence of the
[•reservation of David's Tomb. Peter says (Acts ii. 29),
•• He is both dead and buried, and his sepulchre is with
us unto this day." The sepulchre of King David is men-
tioned several times at later periods, and some singular,
if not amusing stories are told in connection with it.
The following is by one Benjamin, of Tudela. It is very
extravagant, to bestow on it the very mildest criticism.
" On Mount Zion are the sepulchres of the house of
David, and those of the kings who reigned after him.
In consequence of the following circumstance, this place
is hardly to be recognised. Fifteen years ago, one of the
walls of the church on Zion (the Ceenaculum), fell down,
and the patriarch commanded the priest to repair it. He
ordered stones to be taken from the original wall of Zion
for that purpose, and twenty workmen were hired at
stated wages, who broke -tones taken from the very foun-
dation of the wall of Zion. Two laborers thus employed,
found a -tone which covered the mouth of a cave. This
they entered in search of treasures, and proceeded until
THE CCENACULUM. 405
they reached a large hall, supported by pillars of marble,
encrusted with gold and silver, and before which stood a
table, with a golden sceptre and crown. This was the
sepulchre of David ; to the left they saw that of Solomon
in a similar state ; and so on, the sepulchres of the other
kings buried there. They saw chests locked up, and
were on the point of entering, when a blast of wind, like
a storm, issued from the mouth of the cave with such
force, that it threw them lifeless on the ground. They
lay there until evening, when they heard a voice com-
manding them to go forth from the place. They imme-
diately rushed out and communicated the strange tale to
the patriarch, who summoned a learned rabbi, and heard
from him, that this was, indeed, the tomb of the great
king of Israel. The patriarch ordered the tomb to be
walled up, so as to hide it effectually."
Besides this place (the Coenaculum, to which I will refer
directly) being the resting-spot of David, beneath it
slumber the remains of Solomon, and of others of David's
princely line. The dust of these monarchs of Israel is
covered over by the spacious church of the Coenaculum,
so-called, because it is generally supposed that here, or
near this place, the Last Supper was solemnized. The
church itself is pretty old, and may date back to the fourth
or fifth century. It stands on the southern brow of Zion,
and occupies a commanding position. When it was first
known as a church, the cluster of traditions around it was
small, but as time wore on, and as the taste for the mar-
vellous increased, other interesting events were enacted
years ago in a locality, now enclosed by the walls of this
406 I'llK OQSNACULUM.
small church. It was first celebrated or recognised as
sacred, because it Btood over the Tomb of David. 1 will
now enumerate sonic of the additions in Legends, made at
a later date to the holy Bights already discovered. One
writer says, he saw on Zion, "a church which included
the site o( our Lord's supper; the place where the Holy
Ghosl descended on the Apostles; the marble columns to
which our Lord was hound when he was scourged; the
spot where the Virgin Mary died; and the place of the
martyrdom of St. Stephen." Again, " Mere the Apostles
were congregated, with closed doors, when Jesus stood in
the midst of them and said, ' Peace be unto you;' and He
again appeared there when he rebuked the doubting
Thomas. There he supped with his disciples before the
passover, and washed their feet; and the marble is still
preserved there on which He supped. There the relics
of St. Stephen, Nicodemus, Gamaliel, and Abido were
honorably deposited by St. John, the Patriarch, after they
were found." 'Idie sanctity of holy places is thus for ever
destroyed by this morbid tendency, to crowd interesting
Localities into too small a compass. On visiting the
church, they will lead you to a grated door, and point out
to you the tomb — the genuine tomb is hid beneath this
one. But you can go no farther than this grated parti-
tion. A decided exploration would reveal much. In
regard to all this, it may be stated in a sincerity, and
on highest authority, whether or not the Coenaculum
. - -r the tomb of the great David, this thing is certain,
the burial place of the Shepherd King cannot be many
feel di-tant.
TOMBS OF THE PROPHETS. 407
Near this Coenaculum — I might as well refer to it here,
as long as I am on Zion — is a house surrounded by a high
wall — it is the so-called Palace of the high priest, Caiaphas.
This also is referred to by writers as far back as the fourth
century. It has, of course, its particular group of legends.
" The curious will here be shown, under the altar of the
church, the very stone that once closed our Lord's
sepulchre, (which, we have already seen, the Armenians
are accused of having obtained in no very honest way.)
Here, too, is exhibited the prison in which Christ was
confined — there is another in the Church of the Sepulchre ;
the precise spot where Peter stood when he denied his
master ; and even the stone on which the cock was roost-
ing when he crew ! The building is now a convent, and
it forms the cemetery of the Armenian patriarchs. About
one hundred yards east of the convent is a cave in the
hill-side, where Peter is said to have hid himself after he
had denied his master."
The Tombs of the Prophets — why so called I cannot
determine, or what prophets' tombs they profess to be, is
more than I know — stand on the Mount of Olives, in a
south-east direction from the Tomb of Jehoshaphat in
Kidron, to which I have referred. In order to visit them,
it is best to take a guide, who, for a trifle, will show the
tombs and the entire plan of the excavation. They differ
in mode of construction, from the other tombs around
Jerusalem. No inscription, nor anything connected with
these, aid us in determining to what age, or to whose
memory, were the monuments erected ; and, until some
more enterprising and ingenious traveller shall unravel
108 TOM US OF THE KINGS.
their history, we must remain contenl with knowing
definitely, what we already do concerning the Tombs of
the Prophets — nothing,
About two hundred yards south-east of an old ruin.
on the great northern road leading from the Damascus
Gate, arc the Tombs of the Kings, or, sometimes called,
Tombs of Eelena. This is a remarkable excavation, and
remarkable in its preservation. Some of the finest work
of antiquity is here hid in this rock-cave beneath the
ground. The following is an account descriptive of the
Tombs, including an account of an extraordinary door
there found. The description will be read with interest
and with confidence, as it comes from a most reliable
source.
" On reaching the spot, we find a broad trench, hewn
in the solid rock, which here forms the level surface of
the ground. The western end slopes gradually to the
bottom, some eighteen feet deep. On descending, we
observe, on the left, a very low arched doorway, opening
through a wall of rock seven feet thick, into an excavated
court, ninety-two feet long by eighty-seven wide. Its
depth is now only about eighteen feet ; but the bottom is
evidently encumbered with an accumulation of rubbish.
The walls all round are of the native rock, hewn smooth.
On the western side is a vestibule or porch, thirty-nine
feel wide, seventeen deep, and fifteen high, also hewn in
the rock; the open front was originally twenty-seven feet
wide, but the sides are now much broken. It was sup-
ported by two columns in the middle, and apparently a
semi-column at each side; but these are now entirely
TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 409
gone, with the exception of a fragment of one of the
capitals which depends from the architrave. Along the
front, extend a deep frieze and cornice ; the former richly
ornamented with clusters of grapes, triglyphs, and jiaterae,
alternating over a continuous garland of fruit and foliage,
which was carried down the sides. Unfortunately, this
beautiful facade is almost wholly obliterated, partly by
the tooth of time, but chiefly by the hand of man. It
has suffered much, even within the last few years.
"At the southern side of the vestibule is the entrance
to the tomb. The door, with its accessories, is one of the
most remarkable and ingenious pieces of mechanism
which has been handed down to us from antiquity. It
deserves attention for its own sake, and also as affording
strong corroborative evidence of the identity of the
monument. The opening is very small, and considerably
below the floor of the vestibule ; the rock around it, too,
has been broken and destroyed, but enough remains to
show its plan. Originally, the door could only be
approached by a straight subterranean corridor, ten feet
long, the entrance to which Mas by a trap-door, closely
covered with a flag. The landing-place below this trap-
door was on the very brink of a well or pit, which could
only be avoided by great caution. Passing this, and
crawling along the low corridor, the door was found to
be covered with a heavy circular slab of stone, running
in a groove inclining upwards to the left, and could thus
only be moved from its place by means of a lever pressing
from right to left. This would have been a simple process,
had the whole slab and groove been exposed ; but they
I 10 POMBS OF Til E K I N'GS.
were bo carefully concealed bj 1 1 u* sides of the corridor,
that thev seemed a piece of the solid rock; and then1
was. besides, on the left, in a little passage, another slab,
sliding in another groove at right angles to the former,
which, being shot in, served as a bolt, and made the door
immovable. These complicated arrangements, combined
with the Btrength of the materials, rendered the entrance
impracticable, except to the initiated. And there was,
in addition, an inner door, invented to serve as a trap to
the unwary robber. It was a massive slab of stone,
fitting exactly into the deeply recessed opening, and so
hung upon pivots, above and below, that it yielded to
pressure from without, but immediately fell back into its
place, on the pressure being removed. Should any one
be so unfortunate as to enter, and leave the door for an
instant, his fate was sealed ; for it fitted so closely into
the deep recess, that he had no possible means of pulling
it open again. The roof of the corridor is now broken
away, and the corridor itself, as well as the pit at its
original entrance, nearly filled up with rubbish ; but a
careful examination, and a little excavation, lay bare the
whole puzzle."
.Much dispute has arisen concerning these tombs — by
whom erected, what their age, and whose ashes they once
held or now hold. Mr. Ferguson, judging solely from
their architecture — and he is a good judge in such mat-
— places them at a date later than Herod's; at what
we might Bay, comparatively speaking, a quite modern
date. ML de Saulcy, the enthusiastic French explorer,
Bays most confidently that here was buried King David;
TOMBS OF THE KINGS. 411
and moreover he affirms that he identifies each of the sarco-
phagi, and finishes by saying that he himself took away
the lid of the rock coffin which was assigned to David, or
rather to which the Shepherd King was co??signed. Mr.
Ferguson says of this, quite pertly and aptly, that the
Sarcophagus of David of M. de Saulcy uis certainly more
modern than the time of Constantine." They are thought
by Dr. Schultz to be the royal tombs to which reference
has been made in speaking of the ancient wall of Bezetha.
Dr. Robinson, whose opinions generally are entitled to the
fullest credence, believed, " taking history and ancient
topographical notices as his guides," that this excavation
is, what it was no doubt anciently called, the Tomb of
Helena and of her family. Mr. Williams thinks their
magnificence and splendid workmanship well accord with
Herod's notions of grandeur, and warrant him in styling
them the " Monuments of Herod." Dr. Porter, from
whom I have often and largely quoted, agrees, as he
generally does in matters of dispute, with Dr. Robinson.
Upon reading the testimony of each in favor of his parti-
cular theory — and I have studied hard an epitomized
abstract from their different works — I believe wholly with
Dr. Robinson and Dr. Porter. Without going into any
detail, as that were impossible just now, I will simply
state that mention was made of this tomb and called that
of Helena by Josephus three times, several times by
Eusebius, Jerome, and particularly in the 2d century by
Pausanias, the Greek. He speaks of a tomb of Helena,
in which he gives an exaggerated account of the remark-
able door to which reference has been made above. He
I L2 Tom BS OF Til E J l DG ES.
Bays of this, "thai ii was of the same rock, and was so
contrived that when the returning year brought round a
particular day and hour, it then opened by means oi
mechanism alone, and after a short time closed again ; had
one tried to open it at another time, he must have first
broken it with violence." The account is, of course, ex-
, rated and tinged just slightly with the marvellous,
yet it smaeks enough oi' truthfulness to warrant us in
believing the door to which Pausanias referred to he
identical with the door as Been now in the Tombs of the
Kings, or the Tomb of Helena, as I think more properly
called.
The Tombs of the Judges, which are situated a little
further up the Valley of Jehoshaphat, deserve a passing
notice. In structure and arrangement they are similar to
those already mentioned, and require no particular descrip-
tion. Why they were called Tombs of the Judges, we are
not yet informed. Some say because the old Hebrew
Judges were here interred; this, to say the least, is im-
probable. Porter thinks " more probably" (and more pro-
perly too) " that the name had reference to the Judges
of the Sanhedrim ; and was applied in consequence of the
fancied correspondence of the number of niches with the
number of members composing that tribunal."
There are several other ancient sites in and around
Jerusalem, hut those to which I have referred are situated
without the wall ; the Tomb of Herod, the Fullers Field,
th<- Gampqf Tihi.s, and the Grotto of Jeremiah. Herod's
Toinh. or monument, is mentioned two or three times by
Josephus. From what that Jewish writer says concern-
GROTTO OF JEREMIAH. 413
ing it, Dr. Schultz concludes that some extensive remains
of large stones and of general debris south of the pre-
sent Birket el-Mamilla, " covering a few sepulchral caves
hewn in rock/' are all that there is to-day of Herod's
monument.
Near this same pool was the " Fuller's Field." The
fullers were " cleansers of woollen garments." Here per-
haps they washed their garments, as this was convenient
to water ; and here perhaps, being a " field," and of course
a large open space, they dried them in the sun. The
Fuller's Field is mentioned twice in the Scriptures, and
that in the Old Testament — once in Isaiah, and once in
2 Kings.
Concerning the Camp of Titus there has been some dis-
pute. It is safer to believe it (and more in accordance
with truth), to be near the knoll or swell of ground west
of the Damascus Gate.
The Grotto of Jeremiah is nearly opposite the Camp
of Titus ; that is, it is north-east of the Damascus Gate.
There are two large vaults included in the cave, which we
reach by a couple of pair of stairs. Whether or not, in
reality, the Grotto derives its name from Jeremiah the
prophet, I have no means of knowing. Of everything
else, so of this, a very great doubt can be expressed as
regards truth in the premises.
Of the pools and fountains I have spoken sufficiently
in my Journal, so I will pass them by ; but indeed I
would hardly be excusable, and many would think that I
had never been to Jerusalem indeed, if I forbore to men-
tion a certain street or way — street is too dignified a
Ill \ I \ DOLOROSA.
title — on which are clustered holy places, 1 had said
without number, hut 1 will Bay without foundation for
belief 1 refer to the famous Via Dolorosa — the mournful
way. Withoul Bpeaking irreverently, and far indeed from
meaning anything of the Bort, I would say it is indeed a
mournful way. if throughout its course we present the
moving Bpectacle of gulping tools, listening to the non-
sense which is here [toured into our ears. This one fact,
however, is sullicient to cause us to view the solemn way
with melancholy and subdued feelings at heart; far more
than probable it was along this sad street that Jesus
Christ walked to the hill on which lie was crucified.
•• Here, on the left, are two old arches in the wall, now
built up. where the Scala- Santa, or staircase leading to
the Judgment Hall, stood until removed by Constantine
to the basilica of St. John Lateran. On the opposite side
of the street is the Church of the Flagellation, so called
from the tradition that on its site Christ was scourged.
Others call it the -Church of the Crowning with Thorns,'
and both names are probably equally applicable. A few-
paces westward t lie street is spanned by the Ecce Homo
Arch, which a lively imagination might date back to the
B Miian age. Here Pilate is said to have brought forth
our Lord and presented him to the people, saying, 'Be-
hold the man!' We now descend an easy slope and turn
sharply to the left, into the street corning from the
Damascus Gate; passing on our way the spot where
the Saviour, fainting under the cross, leaned against the
wall of a house, and left on it the impression of his
shoulder; and then the spot where, meeting the Virgin,
VIA DOLOROSA. 41-5
he said, Salve Mater! In the bottom of the valley is
pointed out the House of Dives, and a stone in front of it
on which Lazarus sat. Turning another sharp corner to
the right, and ascending the hill, we have, on the left,
the place of Christ's second fall under the cross ; and then
the House of St. Veronica, from which that illustrious
woman came forth and presented the Saviour with a
handkerchief to wipe his bleeding brows. The ascent
from hence to the Church of the Sepulchre is consider-
able, and the street has a strange picturesque aspect,
The pavement is rugged, the walls on each side prison-
like, pierced here and there with low door and grated
window ; while a succession of archways shroud portions
of it in gloom, even when the intervals are lighted up by
the bright sun of noonday. A more appropriate name
could scarcely be invented, for this section at least, than
the Via Dolorosa. Here, too, are other stations, including
the spot marked by the fragment of a column, where the
soldiers compelled Simon to carry the cross ; and the
place where Christ said to the women who followed him
weeping, ' Daughters of Jerusalem, weep not for me.'
Some will call these stations absurdities, others may give
them even a worse name ; but such as desire to see the
simple faith with which they are believed and reverenced
by Latin pilgrims — men of education and enlightenment
— need only consult the work of the Abbe Geramb.
" Just at the western termination of the Via Dolorosa,
tradition places the Porta Judiciaria, the site of which is
supposed to be marked by a single upright shaft at the
angle of the street and the bazaar. I know not on what
Ih'> THK CONVENTS.
ground, historical or architectural, this column can be
connected with a gate at all : the tradition, however, has
probably equal claims to credit with the others along the
Btreet"
A notice i\[' Jerusalem, such as I have attempted to
give in these few pages, would not he complete, if I
omitted to refer, briefly though it may be, to the con-
vents belonging to the different sects of the city. This
I must necessarily do in a manner very brief — in fact, I
can scarcely do more than refer to those which are the
chief in Jerusalem.
There are a good many buildings, rather, I should say,
societies of this nature, but there are only three edifices
which deserve especial notice : the Latin, the Greek, and
the Armenian. The latter is the largest, and by far the
most elegant in the city. I have referred to it in the
pages of my Journal, and, consequently, have but little
to say about it in this place. The convent is situated
near the south-western brow of Zion, not far from the
barracks. To it is attached the largest (among other
things] garden in Jerusalem. The convent is erected on
the traditional site of the martyrdom of St. James —
rather, the church belonging to the convent is built on
the said site. The convent was founded as early as the
eleventh century. There is a theological seminary and
a printing press connected with the building.
The Greek Convent stands west of the Church of the
Holy Sepulchre, and near the street of the Christians. It
is an uninviting, dull-looking building, and offends rather
than attacts the eye. The Greek Patriarch, he who
THE CONVENTS. 417
practises the deceit of the holy fire in the chapel of the
sepulchre, has this gloomy-looking pile for his residence.
He is not, and should not, be envied. This convent can
boast the best selected library in Jerusalem. Among its
collections are some very ancient manuscripts ; one among
which is especially precious. It is a " copy of the Book
of Job, in folio, written in large letters, surrounded with
scholia in a smaller hand, and almost every page contains
one or more miniatures of Job and his friends ; its date is
about the twelfth century."
The Latin Convent of the Saviour, the San Salvador
of the Italians, and St. Sauveur of the French, stands
near the north-western angle of the city. It, like the
Armenian Convent, was founded and occupied originally
by the Georgians, once the most powerful religious sect
in Syria. Connected {not materially) with this convent
is the Casa Nuova, near the Jaffa Gate, where lodgment
and food can be obtained by those of all creeds and
nations ; but, in return, you are expected to pay prices
rating higher than those of the best hotels.
Besides the three convents just noticed, there are two
more, to which I will simply refer : the Convent of St.
Mark and the Convent of the Cross. The first is a
Syrian convent, situated in an obscure part of the town ;
it has very few members, and is interesting to Christians
simply as being the house of the Evangelist St. Mark.
The Convent of the Cross formerly belonged to the
Georgians, and was founded at a very early date. It has
recently been fitted up by the Greeks, who purchased it ;
and it now boasts a college, or has itself been converted
27
! I s THE CONVENTS.
into a college. It gets its name from the fact that the
tree from which the cross was obtained grew on this spot.
It stands in a desolate-looking, rocky valley, about three-
quarters of a mile wesl of the city.
And now I have finished this hasty, though somewhat
extended examination ofwhal is to be seen by the tourist
of ancient and modern times, worthy of interest in and
about the City of the Foundation of Peace. That I have
executed it imperfectly, 1 know. 1 could scarcely have
hoped, or expected otherwise, writing, as I have done,
surrounded by no means of consulting authorities, and
depending solely on the memory of what I have read,
and on the recollections of my visit to the places them-
selves. I hope sincerely, however, that the reader or
traveller has been somewhat instructed and pleased with
my labor. If such is the case, then "so well and so
_ 1' — au contraire — why. simply, I cannot help it, and
have only to say, I crave the indulgence of the public,
and advance, as others often do, the plea, human fallibility
— human frailty.
CHAPTER XX.
JOURNAL CONTINUED.
Bamleh, Plain of Sharon.
Tuesday, March 15th, 1859.
^JjyO-DAY was the last on which I beheld the old,
I dull walls of the Holy City. Long, indeed, I
lingered behind to catch the last glimpse of the
huge shadows of the Tower of Hippicus, as the
rays of the early risen sun fell upon it and gilded it from
top to bottom ; and now Jerusalem, the spot where of late
I have spent such sweet and hallowed moments, — where
I have, as it were, communed with kings of yore, and
looked upon the mighty working of man's hand in an
antichristian age, — is many miles behind me, and the link
of magic association is dispelled forever. Yet so it must
be, and so let it be. I can but heave a sigh, however, as I
think when I awake in the morning, my eyes will no
longer rest on the green slopes of Mt. Olivet.
Quite early this morning we arose, in spite of having
retired at a late hour last night. It was necessary, and
we bowed, or rather — got rq> and dressed, at the bidding of
necessity. We descended gloomily into the narrow court
of the Prussian Hospice ; our baggage was all ready, our
(419)
120 i i \ v 1: .1 E R i rSALEM.
weapons in good order, and we simply awaited a 1 uist \
breakfasl before Baying good-bye to all, and commencing
our homeward march toward the sunset, Silently and
slowly we ate the meal spread before us; it was our last
with good Mr. Theil. Long shall 1 remember him and
his many kindnesses to our party. The meal was finished,
we mounted our steeds, said good-bye hastily, and in a
few moments had reached the Jaffa Gate. Here we were
compelled to remain a few minutes for Mr. S — tt, who
had -one back after a trifling article. Our patience was
n«»t exhausted, however, for soon our good friend ap-
peared. Shaking Mr. Theil finally by the hand — he had
accompanied us thither — we started once more, and soon
on turning the high cliffs to the west, the Holy City sank
' U rnally, I imagine, on my eyes. And then we were
fairly embarked on our long, dull, tedious ride. Ah! it
was truly U odious to lis. Up and down, down and up, it
-•lined even worse than when we came. And the day
was so warm. too. This, together with the melancholy
musings occasioned by our departure from El-Khuds,
threw me into a real fit of blues, from which I have not,
a- yet, wholly recovered.
About ten miles from Jerusalem we came up with Dr.
Barclay. Miss , of Virginia, far away, and Miss Dick-
Bon, a resident English lady (missionary), in Jerusalem.
They were resting at Kirjath-jearim, to which I have
before referred. We partook of a snack with them, and
then were prepared to march. Miss , of Virginia, is
under Mr. S — tt's charge hack to the United States. Miss
Dickson is on her way to Jaffa, to meet some English
PARTING WITH MONTAG. 421
friends, whom she expects by the last steamer just in.
And here at Kirjath-jearim I had my feelings as sorely
tried as ever before in my life. It was here we parted
with the noble " old Hussar," the companion of our ear-
lier undeveloped hours and days of this expedition, which
is now piecemeal drawing to a close — with good John
Montag ! It was a sore moment to me and to all our
party, especially S. ; and it was a trying ordeal to good
John's manhood. He could not keep back the fountains
which gushed at nature's bidding; he wept like a child, as
one by one he embraced our party. I was the last. He
threw his arms around my neck, gave me one hearty
embrace, and with his voice half drowned in heartfelt
emotion, he murmured something, all of which that I
could understand was, " Gott in Himmel !" And so we
parted. Ever green, Meinherr, shall thy memory be on
the fig tree of my remembrance ; ever fresh shall it be in
the halls of recollection. The good old fellow lingers in
Jerusalem to spend the week of Easter. God bless him
forever ! How well I remember his introduction to me
in the Museum, at Naples ! But he is gone, and I shall
never see him again this side of the Bar of Eternal
Judgment.
Once again we started off, my sadness increased much
by the departure of good Meinherr. I looked back more
than once, until his form, with Dr. Barclay's, had faded
from view. After a most fatiguing ride, and after di-
vers adventures, some laughable, some serious, we again
reached this little place late in the night. We had much
difficulty in getting in the convent, as we had ladies in
122 I.KA V I R A M l.l'.ll.
the party. Ladies are often tin- cause of — bul we will
not finish thai uaughtj Bentenoe, for some fair lady may
at one day see these hastily scribbled pages, and then!
Thanks to Esslinger, however, his fluent Italian and his
valuable tongue, we have passed the Large gates, and are
all snugly quartered once more in the Latin Convent in
Ramleh. Esslinger is furiously mad with the new Mouk-
ary (we could not gel Hassan), and swears d — 1 a bil of
bakhshish ! How many things have transpired since last
1 -mod within the lour narrow walls of this chamber, yet
how well I remember the day we reached here, on our way
to Jerusalem, and how well do I remember S.'s particular
adventure! — but on that, let the silence of ages sleep.
Steamer Hydaspe, Mediterranean Sea.
\Y« dnesday, March 16th, 1859.
At an early this morning we arose. Having partaken
of a scanty breakfast, even more scanty than when we
were going to Jerusalem, and withal being urged rather
openly by the good padres to vacate the premises — to
vamose tfu RANCHE, most literally speaking, we left the
convent gate precisely at seven o'clock, thoroughly dis-
gusted with convent, edibles, and Christian hospitalities.
As a hostelry, where "good provender" can be obtained
for the inner man, what a contrast this convent presented
to one of our southern darkey cabins in America. But
that ifi a sore subject. The thoughts of ash-cakes and
fried meat come rushing over my brain too overwhelm-
ing!', as I allow my mind to wander so far, and at the recol-
lections awakened, my mouth waters too much for com-
AT JAFFA. 423
fort, strange as it may seem, the ladies arose early, and
were ready to depart when we made our appearance.
We had a most delightful ride to Jaffa, and much fun
along the road, as barren as it was. Mr. S — tt and my-
self gathered many small and beautiful flowers blooming
on the outspread carpet of the Plain of Sharon. How
natural and home-like things looked in Jaffa as we wound
along the dusty avenues lined with giant cactus plants,
and entered the city. We were met some distance from
the gate by Blattner's Jew boys. We went to the sea-
side to obtain tickets for the steamer, and there — oh ! glo-
rious sight ! — there lay the noble craft swaying quietly to
and fro on the light swell. We were now confident of
getting on board ; so, having purchased tickets for Beirut,
we returned to Blattner's and partook of a fine breakfast.
Having taken a farewell stroll around Jaffa, seen again
the reputed site of the House of the Tanner Simon, &c,
we left the hotel, never to see its fat proprietor again, I
imagine, and repaired to the place of embarkation. Here
we had more trouble about our baggage and the con-
founded custom-house duties, than we did in coming. No
doubt the rascals remembered us, and remembered, too,
the large bakhshish they obtained from us ! This time,
however, we did not escape ; they would have it ; they
had us in their power, unless we resorted to violence, and
even then we were in their power. So we paid down the
bakhshish, and a heavy one, for the steamer was waiting
for us, which the captain would not do long, for the tide
was setting out, and that waits for nobody. We finally
reached the steamer, and as my foot fell on the deck of
Ill [ ON BOARD,
the Hydaspe, I enjoyed the first really unrestrained and
free inspiration I breathed since I left the side of the
Meandiv in this same roadstead. I fell like a new man;
and the captain and officers of the ship, despite their
palaver and gold lace, at least looked like specimens and
representatives of civilization. And now we are once
again on the deep, Jaffa lies many miles astern, the sea is
smooth, the wind is fair, the Hydaspe is fleet, and the
clear twinkling stars shining yonder over the dusky
height of Mount Carmel on the coast, reveal to us the
rippling foam scudding by us, and tell us that we are
swiftly ploughing the main toward our haven.
Ship Borystliene — At Sea.
Thursday March 17th, 1859.
Sea. )
159. j
We had a most delightful run throughout last night,
until we reached, about daybreak, the beautiful city of
Beirut. We had a fine view of the dark outline of Mount
Carmel, with which is connected so much interest. As
the ship sailed smoothly on, and while my eyes devoured
the dark object away to the leeward, which I knew to be
Mount Carmel, how pleasantly did I remember all I ever
had heard of Carmel, and ruminated with a joyous thrill
over the chequered fortunes of the noble convent which now
graces the summit of the mountain. The cliff was made
sacred from the fact that on it Elijah offered up his sacri-
fice. The mighty and magnificent convent which now
rears its massive pile amid the solemn grandeur of this
rocky waste is called, after the prophet, Mar Elias. The
history of the convent may be briefly summed up thus :—
MAR ELIAS. 425
There has stood in this spot a convent for many, many
years, but it was destroyed by the soldiers under Titus.
The general took the convent after a lengthy siege.
After the Crusades it was taken and destroyed by the
Saracens. Still later, Napoleon, during the siege of Akka,
destroyed it ; or rather he used (or abused) it as an hos-
pital; and after he left it, the Turks plundered it. Still
later, in 1821, the entire building was blown up by the
orders of Abdallah, Pacha of Akka. From these succes-
sive ruins and disasters the present majestic convent
arose, and by the ever-to-be-remembered effort of one
•man — a poor lay member, by name Jean Baptiste. His
name will ever be connected with the huge pile which his
indefatigable industry erected ; and with the mention of
the convent his name shall ever be honored. He begged
through Europe, Asia, and Africa for fourteen long years,
and finally obtained his aims.
The traveller will be more than pleased with a visit to
this convent, as there are many points of attraction,
besides good beds, good cuisine, and a whole-souled, hearty
welcome. It is stated by some that the convent was com-
pleted in 1826 ; more properly I think it should be 1835.
I lingered long on deck, watching the far-off spot fading
away in the dimness of distance and the gloom of night,
and when it was finally shut from my view I could but
heave a sigh of regret.
My slumbers through the night were rather restive,
owing to a bad finger. When I awoke this morning. I
found that the good Hydaspe lay motionless upon the
water, and the endless clank of machinery thundered no
126 BEIRUT.
more. On casting a glance through my small circular
window . there la} Beirut, bathed in floods of early morn-
ing sunshine. I was booh on deck, and as the sky
fortunately was cloudless, 1 obtained a fine view of the
peerless Lebanon. Mv party were already on deck,
ing, in rapt admiration and hoi} awe, at the uprising
dill's and Bnow-covered crags which glared from the
Liban, down upon us. The mountain appeared about
hall" a mile distant. It was in reality twenty times that
distance. What a multitude of associations rushed over
ns as we gazed at Lebanon — and we longed to catch a
glimpse of the far-famed " cedars ;" but they were far over
on the other side, and our gaze could not reach them.
Beirut is the ancient Berytus, and is what might be
justly termed, on account of all qualities that make a
city, the Capital of Syria. It has sometimes been styled,
on account of its really excellent cafes, promenades, and
general gaiety, the Syrian Paris. 1 am told, though I had
not the opportunity to judge from experience, that there
arc pleasure-grounds and drives around Beirut, which
rival, in a measure, as far as pleasure is concerned, the
Bois de Boulogne, or Hyde Park. This state of progress
and activity is due to foreign iniluence, particularly English
and American. Beirut has grown to its present state in
about thirty years. It now numbers nearly fifty thousand
inhabitants, and is constantly increasing. It boasts seve-
ral line public buildings, a library, printing-office, steam-
factories, &c. Beirut is the grand trysting-ground often
for the rival sects, the Maronites and Druzes, who occupy
the Lebanon range overhanging the city, we might say.
BALLS IN BEIRUT. 427
During the winter season, many splendid balls are given
by the foreign population, at which all the notable Turks,
— the pacha, his officers, &c, are invited. It does not
appear, however, from the following account, which I
by chance found in a very interesting book of travels,
on the coast, that the gay proceedings, particularly the
dancing of the foreign ladies, please the grave Turk, or
agree with his notions of propriety. I wonder what they
would say, could the}^ visit our Saratoga, our Virginia
Springs, or attend a hop at Old Point or Newport. " At
the end of a room, perched on a divan of state, is the
pacha and some of the more distinguished Turks. They
smoke and talk and applaud, alternately — looking upon
the whole affair as a boy would at a puppet-show, think-
ing that the ladies and their partners are capering about
for their especial benefit and amusement. If there is
anything that annoys them, it is the character of the
music, which is not half sedate enough, nor sufficiently
lugubrious or out of tune, to suit their taste. When the
waltz or quadrille, or whatever it may be, is over, and
the partners promenade in couples around the room, these
gray-bearded children criticise the ladies, and are heard
to exclaim Mushalla! (God be praised!), if any particular
belle appear to be rather stout, which is the standard of
beauty in Turkey. After smoking an incredible number
of pipes, and seeing a great many dances, and consuming
whole gallons of very strong punch, the old fellows toddle
home in a merry mood, thanking their stars that it was
not in their own hareem, that they had just witnessed
128 SA [L FOB A l.r. \ A N DB 1 A
dancing, as in their hearts the} look upon the affair as
yit\ indecorous as regards ladies.
There is a fine American missionary station in Beirut.
It may be interesting to state 1 think, though I am not
certain, that it is presided over by Dr. Van Dyck, the
celebrated Oriental scholar. We made our arrangements
for instant departure, even as we arrived. We could
only spare one day at Beirut, necessity calling us away.
So just as soon as we could conveniently do so, we
embarked on the fine French steamer Borysthene, for
Alexandria, and felt the satisfaction at lust of knowing
that we were homeward bound.
Several Americans are aboard. The ship is heavily
laden with a great number of Russian and Greek pil-
grims, who are lx.und to Jaffa, thence to Jerusalem, to
celebrate the week of* Easter. Our rate of speed is slow,
and I am glad it is, for I have more time to note the
motley crowd, and its representatives aboard. The
Greeks are a noble-looking, independent set of fellow^.
even now ; and as 1 scan their fine features, I am carried
hack to school-boy days, when in Homer, I read of the
great doings before the Trojan w^alls of Agamemnon, the
Kin- of .Men, — of Achilles and Ajax. Before any pilgrim
was received aboard the steamer at Beirut, his fire-arms
were first taken from him, his pistols, if loaded, were dis-
charged, and all locked up, to be given to him at Jaffa.
Yet it is very different with us Franks : I had a pistol in
my belt, and I noticed a young American from Boston,
who had a highly ornamented, but none the less deadly
" Colt," lying negligently in his pocket. Yet we were
ON THE MEDITERRANEAN. 429
permitted to pass with "C'est bien, Monsieur." But the
hour grows late ; my companions have long since retired,
and I am writing this Journal by the binnacle lamp. I
would fain linger awhile longer, and watch the moonlight
dancing over the dark crests, yet sleep has besieged me,
and prudence says, " Go to bed ;" — I obey.
Steamer Borysthene, at Sea,
Friday, March 18th, 1859.
Once again I am tossed on the bosom of the Mediterra-
fea, )
59. J
"O*
nean, and its ever-ceaseless swell rolls our ship roughly
about. Many have been my rovings and wanderings, and
many weeks, ay, months, have passed since I left the Stu-
dent's Quarter, in far-off Paris. Ever since then my back
has been on the West, and my foot has trod away from
home. But now, indeed, my anxious prow is turned
toward home, my distant western home, beyond the
mighty wash of the restless Atlantic. Thank God for it !
and thank Him most fervently I do, for preserving my
life through the many perils I have run by sea and by
land.
We had a most calm and delightful time throughout
the entire night which has passed ; and this morning when
I went on deck, 1 found the sea as smooth as glass. The
foaming flakes curling under our bow, told that our speed
had much increased. Casting my eyes around, no land
was in sight, and the sky and water horizon to the East,
broken by the early rising sun, presented a grand and
gorgeous panorama of fleecy clouds hanging over the
background of deepening purple. It was a glorious sight,
130 JAFFA ONCE MOB E.
and our well worth m\ earl} rising. Indue time, how-
ever, the long, low line of the coast country came into
view, and booh after, the gray, rugged pile of buildings
perched on a cliff, and called Jaffa, was in sight. The
water was very smooth, and we steamed quite close in.
Our anchor-chain rattled through the hawse-hole, and the
Borysthene Bwung lightly around. It was with singular
feelings I viewed Jaffa once more, although my absence
from it was brief, and once again 1 thought of the house
of the Tanner, of Napoleon's butchery, and of the lovel\
tnungt groves and cactus hedges surrounding the place. 1
thought of the time I landed, of Padre Geronimo, and of
1 John Montag, and my musings were slightly tinged
with melancholy. We quickly discharged our cargo of
pilgrims, and really it was worth a great deal to stand
snugly sheltered from the sun's rays, on the quarter-deck
of our Bteamer, as was our party, and watch the motley
mass fairly streaming down the sides of the ship. Finally
they had all disembarked, and immediately the swabbers
were at work. In an hour or so, the Borysthene, as far
a- regards order and cleanliness, was rejuvenated. Mr.
B — ks (of the New York Express) and daughter, who
came over on the Vanderbilt a year ago, came aboard our
Bhip. They had been on a tour up around Jerusalem,
the Dead Sea. and Jordan. Ibrahim, our old friend and
dragoman, accompanied them in their different excursions,
and came with them down to .Jaffa. They arrived so late
last night that they were compelled to remain outside the
town gates. Ibrahim came aboard, and our meeting was
mutually pleasant. We remained some five hours at
AT ALEXANDRIA. 431
Jaffa, and are now steaming it off to Alexandria. The
weather is very rough.
Harbor of Alexandria — aboard ship
Saturday, March 19th, 1859
:}
To-day has ended ; with its passing aicay we have
traversed many miles of briny sea. While I write this
(9 o'clock P. M.) our gallant craft, the Borysthene, lies
snugly in the harbor of Alexandria, whence we sailed
nineteen days ago, for Terra Santa — and under what
different circumstances are we now situated ! How well
do I remember the day we cast anchor in this harbor !
and what vivid recollections I have of the melee, enacted
that afternoon between the natives and our passengers at
the foot of the gangway of the Meandre ! How well, too,
do I recollect the interesting conversation, all in mother
Deutsch, much to my discomfort — and the pleasant
promenade good Montag and myself had, on the long
quarter-deck of the Meandre ! But Montag is far behind
us now, amid the rocky hill-tops on which the Heilige
Stadt is situated, and I am here once more, in sight of
Pompey's Pillar and the pacha's residence.
This morning we arose pretty early, and looked about
us over the wide waste of waters. The sea was rough,
and the snow-crests were tumbling after each other in
maddening chase. The scene was grand. The sea no
longer resembled the placid mirror of days gone by — but
rather a rocky, mountainous stretch of changeable land-
scape. I had a pleasant promenade and an instructive
conversation with Mr. B — ks of New York. He has
432 a I RICA I N SIGHT.
ahva.lv travelled a great deal, and intends including Spain
in his tour, before he returns to the United States. Mr.
15 — ks is a scholar, and a most affable and polite gentle-
man.
Nothing of an\ note has marked the progress of the
day. We had an amusing conversation at the breakfast-
table, this morning, on appetites. We all show a decided
ntituck in that respect, although we told Mr. S — tt
that he consumes now twice as much as usual, and he
always had a good appetite. He says it is on account of
the ••bracing" mountain air from up around Beirut and
Lebanon. Perhaps so ; but the restaurateur of our ship,
1 am thinking, will bring in an extra charge of francs
and sous, to be paid by our reverend friend. And so the
.lay passed; we laughed, lounged, and smoked. After
o\iq o'clock, the barren hills of North Africa once more
appeared in sight; and at length, after line steaming, we
made this port. A most beautiful night surrounds us;
stars are twinkling in myriads their liquid silver glow ;
and the light, tleecy racks of cloud, skimming the far-
off blue expanse, add beauty and interest to the scene.
The harbor and every craft in it are decked out in full
dress — illumination, &c, in honor to Prince Alfred, Vic-
tor':;!- loyal middy. Bands of music are discoursing
sweetly in every direction, and among them I recognise
the line corps di musique aboard the United States ship
Macedonian; and the air — dear to every American heart,
and especially dear when heard on the borders of heathen-
,\ttm — is the Star-Spangled Banner! 1 could shut my
eyes now, as the strains float through my cabin-window,
A DILEMMA. 433
and imagine I was in Castle Garden. We have been
inspired by the occasion, and have indulged in singing
several of our national airs, much to the pleasure, it is
presumed, of our French crew. I have just come below;
S. remains on deck, endeavoring to get a " lunar" observa-
tion, I suppose. Should you ever see this, S., you will
understand the allusion, and excuse the execrable pun.
It was perpetrated in Egyptian waters, and committed by
a friend. Well, we got in the harbor too late to go ashore
to-night; we defer our debarking until the morning.
India Family Hotel, Alexandria. 1
Sunday, March 20th, 1859. j
This morning, after our accustomed quota of fuss and
trouble, we left the Borysthene and proceeded ashore. I
went on deck this morning, and found the Messrs. P. of
Ohio in a great stew. They have been in Palestine for a
year or so, preparing maps and sketches, and got aboard
our ship at Jaffa. They had shut their trunk, which
catches with a spring-lock, and forgot that they had a
moment before put their keys inside. Here was a
dilemma, for their trunks had to be opened at the cus-
tom-house, and the time was fast approaching when they
had to go ashore. My bunch of keys proved friendly on
the occasion, and the trunk was easily unlocked, much to
their delight. The same gentlemen also had some diffi-
culty in regard to their passports. How the question was
settled I know not ; the last I saw of them at that time
they were earnestly engaged in talking or gesticulating
with a Turkish officer at the passport office, as if endea-
28
I 3 I INDIA 1' A M 1 !.V BOTEL.
voting, though unsatisfactorily, to explain something to
the official. 1 would have gone back to the rescue, but
m\ progress backwards was arrested, and I was told very
politely that it was accessary to attend to my own busi-
ness. 1 thoughl bo myself, and acted accordingly. Later
in the day 1 had the satisfaction of seeing our Buck-eye
friends as large as Life, and seemingly, and really, I sup-
pose, enjoying themselves hugely, galloping about the
streets on donkeys with a ragged Arab boy behind them.
We were so much bored and importuned, even before
leaving th< ship, by an enterprising, pushing runner from the
• India Family Hotel," that, to get some peace, and get rid
of the fellow, we consented to go to his house. He arranged
everything then ; in a measure attended to our baggage at
the custom-house, &c. We left our passports, to get them
again from our consul here, Mr. De Lyon. I think that
gentleman is from South Carolina. We finally took a most
comfortable omnibus, and went to the hotel. What a sin-
gular feeling it was to get into an omnibus again, after such
a long separation from anything like them. The streets
through which we came to the hotel were really fine, and are
bordered with magnificent houses. Everything bears Eng-
lish written on the face. And, for once, I was truly glad
of it. We found the " India Family" to be a very good,
large, Bhowy-looking building. We brushed up, and par-
took of a first-rate breakfast, and then, as the sun was so
warm, we returned to our respective rooms, read, and
arranged our trunks. &c., which had been knocked topsy-
turvy by the custom-house officials. This afternoon Dr.
S. and Mr. S— tt went to church; a large boil on my
SWARMS OF WILD FOWL. 435
knee prevented me. Esslinger is nearly in a molten
state, and swears considerably about the hot " vether."
We expect to go direct to Cairo, by rail, to-morrow
morning, and will leave our heavier baggage and objects
of curiosity here at the hotel.
Hotel du Nil, Cairo,
Monday, March 21st, 1859.
This morning, after a sleepless night on my part (on
account of the boil before mentioned), we arose and
dressed. Having left our heavier articles of baggage at
the hotel, and having completed all arrangements, we got
into an omnibus and proceded to the railroad station for
Cairo. We purchased tickets, and were soon en route. I
would like to describe the particulars of the journey, but
my head aches badly, and the thickly placed houses of
Cairo, heated by an eastern sun, renders the state of the
atmosphere anything but agreeable. In passing out of
Alexandria, over an arm of the sea which here makes in,
we were not only astonished but astounded at the quantity
of wild game to be seen, mostly water fowl. Ducks, swans
of various kinds, plover, cranes, &c, fairly swarmed in
myriad numbers all along the track of the locomotive. They
seemed not at all frightened at the proximity of the iron-
horse. At one shot I am sure I could have killed two
dozen ducks. I never saw such exuberance of game. And
so it was all the way to Cairo — game, game, game. How I
longed for a gun and an hour or so of leisure time ! At
last we reached the Nile; and, on account of the bridge
not being finished, we had a great deal of trouble crossing
136 AKK I V \ I. A I' C \ [BO.
the river in a ferry and getting in the cars on the opposite
side of the stream. There were a great many Egyptian
soldiers along, and the cars were filled to overflowing j so
full indeed that our party became separated. Esslinger
and myself made a rush and seen red a good seat. Mr.
S — tt and .Miss were accommodated elsewhere, and
S. stood up tor awhile; finally he sneeeded in getting a
seat near as. The entire valley, from Alexandria to Cairo,
presented one unbroken level tract teeming with richness,
and glorying in the most beautiful yields. On the route
we made the acquaintance of a Mr. McCague. He is a
resident missionary in Cairo, and is sent from Ohio, United
States, lie is a good and zealous man, and gave us some
excellent advice. 1 shall ever be grateful to him for his
disinterested kindness towards me. We had quite a novel
view presented at every station, by the miserable popula-
tion, which put me very much in mind of the poor wretches
we saw when our European party took the diligence at
St. Jeanne de Maurienne, previous to climbing Mt. Cenis,
in Savoy. In coming in we obtained a noble view of the
Pyramids, towering aloft in all their ancient grandeur.
At last we drew near the domes and minarets of Cairo,
and soon our engine stopped. We got off, and after addi-
tional trouble and vexation, during which our friend Mr.
S — tt came near caning two. or three rascals with genuine
republican liberality, we finally got into a carriage and
started in search of a hotel. We went to two, the hotels
du Pyramids and Nil. At the latter we got lodgings, as
the other was brimful. And here we are at last in la
grand* Gaire, of which, its mosques, bazaars, and many
DONKEY RIDING. 437
other wonders, I have read so often and so much. My
feelings are strange ; but not more novel than when, for
the first time, I gazed on the terraced slopes of Mt. Olivet.
Hotel du Nil, Cairo. 1
Tuesday, March 22d, 1859. j
Tuesday has passed, and its fleeting hours have been
spent by us in various ways. Notwithstanding I was
suffering a good deal this morning, yet with the rest I
mounted my little donkey (I do not mean to say that all
the rest mounted my donkey), and away we went !
Donkeys — little bits of things, somewhat larger than a
Newfoundland dog — are all the go here. It is your only
mode almost, of locomotion, and it is the one always pre-
ferred. A little donkey boy runs behind each donkey,
and by goading the animal with a sharp stick, and twist-
ing the tail occasionally, the little fellow keeps up a nice,
quick, and most easy canter. The boy also guides the animal
by the tail ; it is, in fact, a complete rudder. The little
donkey boy, directly he starts, commences with a sort
of chant or word of warning ; I forget what it is in
Arabic, but in English it is as follows : — " Ho, there !
away ! away ! Hither comes a Briton, and a lord of a
thousand castles !" I could not help smiling when our
long friend P. from Ohio came dashing by, his feet touch-
ing the ground, while he was accompanied at every
bound of his donkey by this flattering heraldry from his
mule boy.
We had a most delicious canter, or stroll rather,
through the different quarters of the city. A large place
438 SIG BT-SEBJ x«; in CAIRO.
is Cairo, and it is the most I horoughly ( Oriental city I have
been in as yet. Upon inquiry 1 Learn thai it contains
four hundred mosques, one hundred and forty schools,
eleven bazaars, three hundred public cisterns, forty-six
squares, two hundred and forty-eight streets, six hundred
alleys, as many passages, twelve hundred and Bixty-five
houses of refreshment, one hospital, sixty-live hacks, and
thirtj thousand donkeys. The proper name for Cairo is
Musr el Kahirah, or Grand Musr, as it was once known.
Egypt was once called Musr, from Mizraim, the son of
Sam. Of the population of the city there are ten thou-
sand (opts, who alone are the genuine representatives of
the ancient Egyptians. We visited the sights generally,
and, among other things, a splendid mosque; and, being
■• infidel dogs,'" we were compelled to have our boots
bundled up in all shapes and manners to prevent their
contact with the floors and subsequent pollution of the
whole mosque. We presented just such a spectacle hob-
bling along, as did my friends J. of North Carolina, G. of
New York, and myself, at the castle of Stolzenfels on the
Rhine. TJiere our republican boots were too coarse to
stand on the elaborate and highly-polished wood floors of
the King of Prussia's country palace ! Well, we did not
care in either case. It is always a pleasure with me to
conform to any decent custom of whatever people I may
be thrown among.
It was an interesting feature to observe no object of
idolatry in the mosques. Mohammedans worship no " pic-
tun.-, wafers, or statues." They do not consider them
instrumental by any means to their devotions. The
HELIOPOLIS. 439
Bazaars through which we passed were really superb —
such a magnificent display of silks and cloths, embroidery,
swords, firelocks, pipes, sashes, and all that is rich ! Very
different are these bazaars from those of Jaffa or Jerusa-
lem. What a queer sight to an American is a bazaar !
It is easier imagined than described. I contented myself
with buying a sash or so, a pair of Arab slippers beauti-
fully embroidered, and a handsome chibouk. I had a
right stiff quarrel with a Turk about a tarbush (a small
red skull-cap much worn by the Eastern dwellers). Miss
, who was along, made several purchases, and to a
better advantage, she being able to speak their own lan-
guage.
We finally returned to the hotel, tired and worn out,
all pleased with the sights of the morning, but a sight
more c7ispleased with our guide — a genuine native Maltese
scamp. In the afternoon I was compelled to remain in
my room, as I was too unwell to go about any at all. S.,
Mr. S — tt. and Miss went to Heliopolis — the small
spot remarkable for being the place where Joseph the
carpenter dwelt for awhile, and where " the young child
Jesus" was hid from Herod's wrath. Our party imagined
they went to Heliopolis ; but when near their arrival to
the city after the trip, what was their surprise and anger
when Joseph, the Maltese guide, coolly told them that
he had not taken them to Heliopolis at all — that it was
too hot for that trip, but he had taken them in about a
mile of the spot ! A good laugh I had at the party when
they told me of the circumstance ; but Joseph's skin was
by no means safe, and he came very near meeting with a
A w K V 1CV DA V.
» \< 'ic castigation at the hands of S., and Mr. S — tt and
•• Heliopolis Joe" (as we christened the guide) came very
Dear having a rough and tumble set-to when they all
got back; after dinner they had another fuss, at which
1 was much amused. Maltese or uo Maltese, in Egypt
or any other country, the rascal has caught a Tartar when
he encounters Mr. S — tt. And so the day passed.
Hold da Nil, Cairo,
Wednesday, March 23d, 1859.
At last this dull, wearisome, turn ace-like day, has
dragged its slow length away, and I have suffered agony
with that boil ! and yet, for a time, it must be endured.
All of my party went out this morning voyaging after
new sights, except poor me. I could scarcely move, and
it was with the greatest difficulty, and the most excruci-
ating pain, that I could get down to the meals. But to
Btay in the house was agony in the extreme, and I could
lot. and would not, stay in all the time, so I ordered a
donkey, took a dragoman, and away I went. I endea-
vored to forget the pain I was undergoing, but no use !
It was there ! I purchased an Egyptian gun, some Lada-
kiyeh tobacco, some other trifles, and returned to the
hotel, almost completely broken down. I amused myself
in different ways, until our party returned, which was at
a very late hour.
To-night our party separates. Loth am I to write these
words, for it is tearing asunder a soul-tie, a heart>string to
separate from agreeable, whole-souled companions, who
are rendered dear to you by the mutual sharing together
LEAVE CAIRO. 441
of many joys and dangers. We have been together now
since we sailed from Malta, and have passed through
many sore times of trouble and of danger. We have this
night to talk our last talk together, and we part to-mor-
row morning. It is a sad time, truly, to me, and the
parting is painful to all. We are now, even while I pen-
cil my hasty scribblings in my little pocket Journal, seated
around a table in silence and sorrow, sipping slowly the
parting glass of friendship ; and as the champagne spark-
les in the goblet, and I raise my head for a moment to
drink to a parting toast, I see in the eye of each the pure,
glittering tear-drop, the more strengthening pledge of
friendship and affection. The glass is drained.
S. and Esslinger will remain a few days longer, while
Miss , Mr. S — tt, and myself, will return to-morrow
morning to Cairo, thence to embark in the first boat for
Malta, and the West. Good-bye to Cairo, and to my
warm-hearted friends whom I here leave !
India Family Hotel, Alexandria.
Thursday, March 24 th,
:andria. )
i, 1859. j
This morning we bade adieu to Egyptian Cairo, and
after completing our arrangements, settling our bill, &c,
not forgetting to quarrel a little with " Heliopolis Joe," the
Maltese scamp, we sprang into a carriage, and saying a
sorrowful and heartfelt, sad farewell, to Esslinger and S.,
we drove to the depot. We had not a minute to spare ;
we purchased tickets, and while engaged thus, we met a
very gentlemanly resident of Cairo, who was a passenger
with us to Alexandria, on the Meandre. Just before
RIVAL BOAT COMPANIES
getting aboard the car-. Mr. S — tt took occasion, in real
American style, to give " Beliopolis Joe" a good " blowing
up." and in pla.c of bakhshish, came near giving bim
back licks with his umbrella. Bui we finally started off,
and then we had a repetition of a dusty, wear} journey,
up to Alexandria, and found our way eventually to our
old place, the -India Family Hotel." Mr. S— tt has
been ver} brisk and business-like, since we arrived, and
has already engaged passage by the English steamer,
Laconia, for Liverpool, via Malta, to leave day after to-
morrow, at twelve o'clock, M. How glad I am to be
directly on my way home, after having accomplished so
much !
English ship Laconia, Harbor of Alexandria. )
Friday. March 25th, 1859. j
This day, / am glad to say, has passed, gone at last,
and joy go with it. In misery and pain, its slow, dull
hours have dragged away to me. I read, smoked, and
talked, took a miserable lunch, &c, &C. After dinner,
having settled our bill, we drove to the wharf. Here, of
course, in getting rid of the carriage, we had a genuine
fuss. At last everything was arranged, and we got into
a boal to go off to the Laconia. I consider ourselves for-
tunate in progressing thus far, for Mr. S — tt came within
an ace of falling into the dock several times, head and ears.
But our trouble- had but as begun. It seems that there
were two rival boat companies, and we, unwittingly, had
tak<-n the one which bad the most timid defenders. The
other boat company came dashing up in their boat and
threw their hand- on ours, and in a most impudent, leering
A BATTLE. 443
manner, stopped our onward way. Not content with this,
they jeered us and our cowardly crew, and denied our
further progress. This was more than Mr. S — tt could
stand. Springing to his feet with the activity of a deer,
he rushed on the ringleader, collared him firmly, and
threw him headlong into his own boat. The man was a
tall, swarthy negro, equal to two men like S — tt in a
continued physical encounter. As he arose, he muttered
something to his companions, and sprang into our boat.
Affairs were getting serious ; Miss gallantly drew
my gun from its cover and taunted the rascal. On he
came, S — tt stood his ground, his heavy umbrella
clenched firmly in his hand. Matters were coming to a
crisis, and I was determined to defend my friend and
myself; I immediately rose, and drawing a small Colt's
revolver from my pocket, I covered the head of the
advancing rascal. He recoiled and retreated pace by
pace. Had he made a single menacing demonstration, I
should most assuredly have tried my skill at " target
practice." It is a great wonder to me, an example has
not been made of these rascals before this. It would
scarcely be murder, or homicide even — for they are brutes
to all intents — to kill a half-dozen of these monsters.
But our boat was freed from their clutches, and bidding
our cowardly oarsman to give way, we soon reached the
gallant Laconia, which lay out in the harbor, swinging
lightly on her anchor. We met with a most cordial
reception from the captain of our steamer, and now, after
a delicious real English teay we are sitting around the
cabin, laughing and talking the time away. I only hope
Ml ON BOA RD Til E LAOON I A.
my good friend S.. who is now in Cairo, may get as good
a berth. I forgOl U) stale thai Pompey's Pillar, and
Cleopatra's Needle (once called Pharaoh's Needle), those
antiehristian monuments of antiquity, claimed from me,
to-day, their due share of attention; and now for a .stroll
011 deck.
CHAPTER XXI.
Malta Cross Hotel, Valetta, )
Friday, April 1st, 1859. j
INCE the foregoing Journal was written many
things have transpired, and many watery leagues
now stretch between us and far away Alexandria.
We were to sail, it will be remembered, on
Saturday, 26th March, at 12 o'clock m. ; but we did not
ease our anchors and steam out of the harbor until 4
o'clock that afternoon; and we went out then with a
heavy sea on, and a furious gale in our teeth. Our pro-
gress was slow, and the ship labored heavily. The storm
continued all that night and next day ; but after that we
had beautiful weather, which lasted until yesterday, when
we once again cast our anchor in the port of Valetta.
I was much pleased with my voyage on the Laconia,
though, if the truth be told, she is a slow boat — slower
even than the old Meandre. The discipline on the Eng-
lish steamer showed a marked superiority to what we
experienced on the French boat. I like the officers and
the ship very much, and will long have pleasant recollec-
tions of both. I wish them many safe and prosperous
voyages.
Yesterday, after some port formalities, during which an
(445)
1 hi SIGHTS IN M A l.TA.
English official made himself a complete ass concerning
our passports, we finally went ashore. A.ngelo, the good
waiter of the Malta Cross Hotel, mel us at the boat — of
course not expecting us. He was glad to sec me3 who,
the only remnant, represented our original party; S. and
Meinherr being now both "beyond the sea." Angelowas
accompanied by our whole force to his hotel, where I
enjoyed myself so much on those cold nights in February
— and here we are again ! It makes me (eel sad, if the
truth be told, to be here once more in .Malta; yet I am
inexpressibly glad to be on my way home. I cannot help
remembering the happy, joyous week S., Meinherr, and
myself spent here together. But where are they now?
After being refreshed by a good night's rest, we arose
this morning bright and early, and, breakfast once over,
we proceeded immediately to the arrangement of our
tickets and passports. This being through with, I
escorted Miss to see the different sights of interest;
among them the splendid church of San Giovanni, or St.
q, where four hundred knights of the order of St. John
are buried. The tombs of these heroes — slabs of beautiful,
different-colored marble, with their hcraldric symbols
engraved thereon — formed the floor, and a magnificent
floor it is! We were glad to meet Mr. and Miss B — ks in
the church. They had jusl gotten in from Alexandria,
in the British ship Para, and gave us the glad news that
S also was a passenger on the same craft. Mr. B — ks
will continue in the Para as far as Gibraltar. There he
will debark, and proceed to the different cities of Spain.
Mi-s and myself continued our walk about the
DIFFERENT PATHS. 447
town, and bought several articles as momentoes. While
in a shop, examining some object for sale, who should
walk right in but our good friend S. ! I was overjoyed to
see him, and looking so well after our short separation.
He gave me the last tidings of good old Esslinger, whom
he left in Alexandria, awaiting the departure of an Aus-
trian boat for Trieste, whither he intended sailing; by
this time he is on his watery way. God stand by him !
And so S. and myself are once more together — we, the
two survivors of our original Jerusalem part}' ; and yet
in a few more days I journey alone. To-morrow, at 5
o'clock, we leave by the French steamer Vatican ; I, for
Naples and the Italian ports in general, en route to Paris,
via Marseilles. Dr. S., Mr. S — tt, and Miss , will
go as far as Civita Vecchia; thence they go to Rome.
Mr. S — tt's wife is in Rome. I would like to accompany
them ; but, as I have seen Rome, I must forego the
pleasure.
Steamer Vatican. \
Saturday, April 2d, 1859. j
This day has passed indifferently well, and I am glad
to come once more to my Journal, to say that it is finished.
We rambled about a good deal in Valetta — bought our
tickets, and made several purchases of Maltese lace,
brooches, &c. I bought a ticket to carry me as far as
Marseilles, my friends having bought theirs for Civita
Vecchia — that looks like going in different directions, and
smacks of parting already. But it cannot be helped ;
necessity is stern, and never knows but one law — the law
of circumstance, which governs all actions.
IIs A STORM V PASSAGE.
At four o'clock i'. K., we bade the Malta Cross Hotel
and it- attaches, a Long Lasting farewell. I never again
expect to Bee the cunning face of Miohele Pisani, nor the
good-humored handsome features <>l* Angelo, his head
waiter So it must be! After experiencing our due
amount of trouble, we finally got aboard a small row-boat,
and in a very rough swell, we pulled to the Vatican,
which was Lying out in the harbor. We got aboard the
steamer at last, and soon had everything stowed away
snugly — my own fixings being now at rest until I reach
Marseilles. I saw .Mr. Winthrop, our consul, on the
Vatican ; he merely came aboard to see Mrs. Levy (wife
of the captain of the U. S. ship Macedonian, which our
parte saw in the port of .Alexandria) safely aboard.
Finally, the anchor was swung from its muddy bed,
and the Vatican moved slowly out of the narrow entrance.
A most violent gale was blowing, and a terrible sea
running. They struck our little craft with full force as
soon as we got clear of the island, and came near knock-
ing us abeam end. I have never seen such a sea in my
life ; but our noble steamer held gallantly on, boldly
buffeting the foaming billows which curled over her, and
drenched her from stem to stern. Ever since we started,
it has been blowing the biggest kind of "big guns," and
even now while I write, the wildest storm is raging I
ever beheld. The wind howls fearfully through the
rigging — the ship struggles undecidedly onward, and
plunges into the dark pitchy gloom as if seeking another
and still more confused chaos. Still, the captain walks
his deck as calmly as ever — twirls his pomatumed
ARRIVE AT MESSINA. 449
moustache, and no doubt thinks of the light gaieties in
his far-off brilliant French capital. Our party have
nearly all succumbed. S. and myself are now for the
deck ; wind, rain, and sea-spray are all preferable to the
miserable air of this saloon.
Steamer Vatican — Port of Messina. )
Sunday, April 3d, 1859. J
After a most tempestuous passage, and one fraught with
very great danger, we have arrived safe and sound once
again at Messina; and our gallant Vatican is none the
worse for her almost superhuman struggles of last night.
Throughout the live-long night the boat tumbled, tossed,
and pitched, and the dawn broke, and found the gale still
raging around us, though a clear sky was above. As we
dashed along to the narrow entrance of the inlet to the
harbor of Messina, between the classic Charybdis and
Scylla, we had a most enchanting view of the rude
Calabrian coast, in all its rugged loveliness. It was,
indeed, a romantic and inspiring sight, to see those naked
rugged mountains raising their black jagged cliffs towards
the sky, while on their sides stood, in the melancholy of
decay, all that remained of many lordly castles of yore.
We finally arrived at this port at ten o'clock A. m.
And here again, as I look around at the familiar objects
to be seen from shipboard — the large fort standing out on
a tongue of land, protecting the inlet; the succession of
gray rocky mountains, rolling back over Sicily; and the
little dirty collection of houses at the foot of these
mountains, ranged in a semicircle around the shores of
29
, "-I I YOUNG PR] EST.
tin' Ikiy — 1 caimol help feeling somewhal sad at the
Election of the first time 1 beheld these objects. Then,
Montag was with us, and I know not Mr. S — tt or Conrad
Esslinger; then, I had not looked on the departed glories
of lost Jerusalem, or stood amid the drop silence of the
valley of Jordan; and the hills of Judea wore far away
from my vision. And as 1 thus indulge my fancy, I
cannot but feel sad. We meet and make friends but to
separate again — very often for eternity; meetings are
sadder in reality than partings. Well! well!
The day has passed in several ways with me. Accord-
in -j to a certain natural proclivity, 1 have made several
acquaintances; among them is a young Irish priest.
Poor fellow, how sorry I am for him! He has been for
five years in India, and is now coming home — to diej
That fell destroyer, consumption, has laid its wasting
hand upon him ; and each heated breath he respires, tells of
the raging fever within. He possesses one of the brightest
of minds: is a pel feet scholar; can converse readily in
Latin. Greek, and Hebrew, and in German, French,
Italian, and Spanish. lie is on his way to Rome, to
glance — a last -lance — at her, as his educational and
religious mother. Thence he goes to Ireland; thereto
lay his bono-, in a soil which might well be proud of such
talents and kind-heartedness as the young priest possesses.
This afternoon an English steamer came in and
anchored. There are two American brigs lying at the
wharf; th<\ arc fruit vessels. The stars and stripes
which float above them, look natural, and present a
gladdening sight to our eyes, so long unaccustomed to
STROMBOLI. 451
look on the symbol of Columbia. We leave this port to-
morrow afternoon, at half-past one o'clock.
Steamer Vatican — off Stromboli — half-past 11 p. M. J
Monday, April 4th, 1859. f
Monday has passed, and what have I to record ?
Nichts viel. But what I have, must be done quickly,
for it is fast growing towards midnight, and I wish to
sleep some to-night — a privilege — rather, a luxury I have
not enjoyed for several twenty-four hours past.
After lying at Messina until one p. m., we steamed out
once more to sea, and have until now enjoyed most
propitious weather. Miss , however, is sea-sick
again, in spite of the calm weather. We are now off
Stromboli, the burning mountain, and a most lovely
spectacle is presented. The enormous mountain rises
perpendicularly out of the deep sea, to the height of
several thousand feet. We are now in the large shadow
of it, and as the liquid lava, molten to a red candescent
heat, bursts with a fiery propulsion high in air, and then
falls in the dark waters around, in a perfect shower of
sparkling fire, the scene is indeed most grand and lovely.
I could willingly enjoy the spectacle longer, but the
Vatican " waits for no man" — and we are fast drawing
away from it. I have taken a rough outline of the moun-
tain, which I shall preserve. Mr. S — tt is in raptures,
and S. is down below, sick and asleep. To-morrow
morning, if no untoward accident intervenes, we will be
before Naples again, whence I sailed the 14th day of
E)2 OFF NAPLES.
February. Now to bed. Come, Mr. S — tt! the hour is
plea. I
859. j
getting " a) ant the twal."
Steamer Valium — Off Naples.
Tuesdaj . April 5th, l*;
Once again 1 breathe Neapolitan air — once more I
behold, Btretching along the bold curve of this beautiful
bay, the gay Chiaia ; and here behind me, away up yonder
in silence and grandeur, Vesuvius is smoking away as
angrily as ever. My emotions, to say the least, are pecu-
liar, as once again 1 find myself looking on Naples.
Since last 1 stood here, what a change, what a revolution
of accidents, incidents, and sight-seeing has been mine:
and under far different circumstances am I as regards
physical health. 1 am much improved. It was here
in Naples that 1 last saw my good friends who were
early with me in my stay in Paris — both true and firm
friends — S-t-r-t of Albany and A n of Philadelphia.
Where they are now, I know not. It was here, too, that
1 last saw J., my constant companion in my continental
rambles ; and here, too, I bade adieu to kind-hearted
Prank <>. of New York, my confrere of many hard times
in Paris and continental Europe. And since I stood here
1 have wandered through the sacred precincts of Jerusa-
lem, have slept in .Jericho by Jordan, have gazed on
Lebanon, and admired the beauty of La Grande Caire,
and the grandeur of the Desert's Monuments — yet here 1
am again.
We arrived quite early this morning into port, and
after fixing up a little, and donning a somewhat better
A RIDE IN NAPLES. 453
attire. S. and self went ashore. Mr. S — tt remained on
account of wrong visee on his passport. S. and self im-
mediately took a carriage — for the smallness of which
Naples is noted — and had a splendid ride about the town.
We went to the Hotel de France, where I left my trunk
when I sailed hence, and then we rode up to the banking-
house of the Rothschilds, where S. drew some money.
We returned by the Hotel de Belle Vue, where my
party, i.e., Frank G., J — s, and myself stopped when in
Naples a month ago. There I found a letter from
Frank G., which he had written a few days after I had
sailed for Malta. He did not leave the city for a
fortnight after I did. It seems he enjoj'ed himself
very much. I do not know where he went from here ;
he simply said, " I'll be in Paris by 1st of April." I hope
I may find him there. In the letter, he gave me the sad
information that the interesting English girl whom we had
remarked at the hotel for her sweetness of manners and
for her beauty, was dead. Truly " all flesh is grass !" G.
also informed me that my guide, to whom I referred in
the first page of this Journal, did not cheat me after all.
However, I saw the guide late in the day, and, notwith-
standing his protestations of innocence, I yet believe him
guilty. After purchasing several minor articles, S. and
self drove to the wharf, and after some difficulty with a
harbor policeman, which S. came near finishing by pitch-
ing the obstinate rascal into the bay, we climbed the
gangway of the Vatican.
My continental Journal I finished at this place ; and
here on the 14th of February I commenced this, my
J". ; A. PARTING M EAL.
Eastern Journal. As 1 cast my eyes over the several
little cahiere which I have written since that time, and I
remember what is contained, written roughly with pencil,
within their lids, 1 Bigh for the joys 1 have seen.
Here, properly speaking, I should conclude my Journal
for the reader, and say to him a cordial good-bye; hut I
imagine he or she would have no objection to tracing up
the eventful separation of our party and its complete dis-
memberment, and to following me to Napoleon's gay
capital. But, as the steamer is getting under weigh, I
will elose my hook and take a last glimpse of Vesuvius,
and ah ! the wheels move — we glide easily away —
good-bye, Naples, good-bye!
Steamer Vatican — At sea, between Civita-
Vecehia and Leghorn.
Wednesday, April 6th, 1859. ^
Once more I am " rocked in the cradle of the deep."
I cannot write much; my heart is sad, and, worse than
that, 1 have a burning, throbbing head-ache. My friends
are now all gone, and 1 am alone. But I will not
anticipate.
Yesterday afternoon at four o'clock we raised our
anchor and eased out of the harbor at Naples. We had
beautiful weather, and the Vatican went well. Night
came on, and there being such fine weather, the table
was full, and. we had fun in abundance; hut it was like
laughing al a funeral with me, for it was my last dinner
and last meal with my party. Dinner over, I enjoyed a
parting conversation with S., S — tt, and Miss ; and
CIVITA VECCHIA. 455
after having copied some sketches of Etna and Stromboli
for Mr. S — tt, I bade them good-night and retired.
Early this morning we were in the port of Civita Vec-
chia; and how memories, even of such short standing,
crowded back over my mind ! How well I remembered
our diligence excursion on our first arrival, and how well
I remember the Hotel Orlandi! Well, having arranged
everything to their satisfaction this morning, my friends
Miss , Dr. S., and Mr. S — tt were ready to leave the
steamer. They hated, as I did, this parting scene ; but it
was necessary ; all felt and showed emotion. I cannot
dwell on this scene; the thousand recollections that
crowd over me now in one minute are overwhelming. A
cordial and prolonged grasp of the hand, a hasty though
heart-felt "God bless you" was murmured on both sides,
and my friends were gone. I watched their fast-fading
figures, until they had landed, and were lost from my
straining gaze amid the crowd that jostled on the wharves.
I am one of those, who, other things being equal, am
inclined to bear up pretty well against all such petty and
temporary emotions as these, so I laughed " dull care
away," and enjoyed myself as well as could be expected.
I got acquainted with a young man from Boston, and a
capital companion he is. He is acquainted with some
old college-mates of mine, of Brown University memory.
We passed the day quite pleasantly, being much amused
at a representative from Albion, our blest motherland.
Unfortunately my newly made friend is only going as
far as Genoa with me ; thence he goes to Venice, thence
to Dresden, to college.
M EMOR I I S OF LEG HOB V
s imboat Vatican, between Leghorn and a* mm.
Thursday . A pril
intl Genoa. )
7i!i. L859. J
This morning when I awoke, after a most refreshing
jht's slumber, we were motionless in the placid harbor
of Italian Livorno. As 1 gazed through my small, round
window, out upon the old, familiar place memories of
friends, and of other, though not very distanl do.ys,
rushed in trooping cohorts over my mind. I lay for an
hour or so, pleasantly indulging in this wide-awake dream
of other friends, of other days, of other funs and sorrows.
When last 1 stood in Leghorn 1 remembered well, and
the troubles which beset our part}-, which was then styled
the " trots des immorteU" were not few — that I remember
also. Where now are J., and Frank G. ? Far away!
And vet my eyes rest on the dull, gray houses of Leg-
horn, and wander along yonder crowded wharf, where
• we three Lounged in the full flush of health and
happiness together. The day passed rather heavily and
dull, notwithstanding my young Boston friend and myself
did our best to amuse one another. We laughed, we
sketched, we ate oranges, ottoper nn<i biacchio, and thus the
time dragged away. I saw young Dr. B., of Lynn, Massa-
chusetts, with whom 1 had often gone the rounds of La
• 'harite Hospital. He was glad to see me, and we had
;in interesting t;:lk over old times. He leaves the boat at
Genoa, with my young Boston friend. I "scraped
acquaintance" with old Dr. Townsend, of Sarsaparilla
ttory, to-day. He is enjoying a continental tour. He
is a nice old gentleman, lull of life and fun. He, like-
• the steamer ;it Genoa, the port to which we
AN INQUISITIVE LADY. 457
are now fast dashing. Once more then, I will be alone,
but not lonesome, as long as I can look around me ; I am
glad I am getting so near to Paris, that city seems like my
second home. We sailed from Leghorn at 4 o'clock, P. M.
* * * * * * *
Friday, April 8th, 1859.
I omitted to write up yesterday's Journal last night,
and will now do so to-day.
Thursday, April 9th, 1859.
It is now past mid-day, and I am sitting in a close,
heated room in the Hotel d ' Alexandrie, in the old sea-port
Marseilles. Singular how time changes scenery, and with
it, persons ! Here I am, however, and I am glad to say
as much, safe and sound in life and limb.
At Genoa, my young Bostonian acquaintance arose
quite early, and shaking me warmly by the hand, left
the Vatican. Drs. Townsend and B. also went ashore,
and I was completely alone, so far as acquaintances were
concerned. We finally steamed off again, and had fine
weather. I would have enjoyed myself, but for an old
English lady, who bothered me considerably, asking very
silly questions concerning the city of Kentucky, the cap-
ital of the District of Columbia, and other such foolish
questions ; and to show her extreme erudition in regard to
affaires Americaines, she asked me if the President wore
pistols and bowie-knife in his belt. I am ashamed to say
now, I responded partially in the affirmative. A visit to
this country will scarcely disburden her mind of such
prejudices as she possesses. This old lady, then, was my
demon-angel throughout the day, and when night closed
1 ;'s MARSEILLES,
in. and the angel of sleep came stealing over me in my
narrow couch, I bailed his resplendent presence with
more than usual pleasure.
We steamed off from Genoa at hall-past two in the
afternoon, and as usual, had fine weather, and made good
time. Throughout the nighl the weather continued line,
and this (Thursday) morning, at nine o'clock, we descried
the beautiful citj of Marseilles, nestling on the rocky
coast far away to the north-west. We were then in lull
view of the rugged, picturesque shore on the cast, and
the varying panorama of shifting scenery was very beau-
tiful. In an hour we came safely into port, and down
rattled our heavy anchor. At last I had reached French
soil, which I had left more than four long months ago;
and the sight of nioustached gens d'o.rmes, and the
piquancy of French babble, were really refreshing. My
name was first on the steamer's list, called out to go
ashore, and 1 went as quick as I could. I met with a
good deal of trouble at the Custom-House, and was com-
pelled to pay duty on an old trunk of curiosities, the joint
property of my friend S. and myself, which I had taken
care of from .Jerusalem. However, 1 finally got through
the Douane, by paying a ten-franc piece. I was somewhat
bothered, too, at the maritime police office, where I went
to obtain my passport. When he got to my business, the
officer asked, " Quellt profession, Monsieur !" 1 responded,
quite boldly and justly, " Medecin /" The man looked up
and gazed rather quizzically at me. He first regarded
my sun-burnt, swarthy visage, then my unprofessional
attire — slouched hat, thread-bare coat, and brogan boots.
A TROUBLESOME OFFICIAL. 459
"Ah! medecin!" he responded, slowly, laying down his
pen, with the self-satisfied air that he had caught me
nicely, and in catching me had caught another Orsini.
I merely responded, " C'est ca, monsieur, vous avez
raison."
He could not believe that I was a doctor ; everything
went against me.
" Vous etes trop jeune, monsieur, et — et — "
" Mon chapeau — pas com me il faut — n'est-ce pas,
monsieur!" I put in, smiling at the officer's doubts and
indecision.
" Oui, monsieur, vous avez raison maintenant /"
Well, I told him to satisfy himself of my attainments
in physic, and made use of the names of several medical
men of distinction in Paris. But no, he was not satisfied
at this ; so he set to work and gave me a real " rubbing
up," as we used to say at school — a genuine examination ;
at the end of which he muttered —
" C'est bien — voila votre passeport."
" Merci bien, monsieur," I replied, and walked out.
When I reached the omnibus again, which was to
present during my examination — she being in quest of her
carry me to the hotel, a young English lady, (?) who was
passport and those of her lady friends — commenced the
conversation immediately on poor me. They did not
know my nationality.
" Well, Rosa," said she who had listened to my exami-
nation, " what do you think ?"
" I can't say," replied Rosa, who was a handsome and
well-dressed girl. " What is it, Bella ?"
M OTTERING REM A RES.
"Why, that fellow there is a doc — no. he will under-
stand I am talking about him — that fellow is a j>Jiy-
'ii .'"
"What!" exclaimed Rosa, in astonishment; "that
wild-looking, half-civilized creature a physician?" I sat
still, and did not betray any knowledge of her -words —
"• Why. he doos not look as if he is worth a bob — why he
is no physician. Bella."
This conversation was carried on in a loud whisper.
A; this last remark I opened a side pocket to my dilapi-
dated vest and took therefrom a valuable watch, the gift
of a dear relative. They stalled back, and some wonder
was exhibited in their countenances.
"Wonder where he got that?" said Rosa. "Not
honestly by it, I am sure."
1 -;iid nothing.
"Not so loud, Rosa," said Bella; "he looks like an
American, and may speak."
••N<>. no, Bella; he is some scapegrace Italian — that's
bid enough. Don't make him any lower by calling him
an American — though he does resemble pictures I have
; of those ied creatures they call Indians."
The conversation, so ilattering to my nationality and
to my personnel, here ended, and in a few moments the
omnibus drew up to the door of the hotel. My lady
friends descended. Although thinking of going some-
where else, I also descended, and ordered a room, deter-
mined to see those same girls under circumstances more
favorable t<> myself. I went to my room and commenced
preparing for dijt dm r <) la fourchette, which the garcon
A METAMORPHOSIS. 461
said would be ready in " une heure et dernier I removed
some of my ragged beard, combed my elf locks into pre-
cision, and enjoyed a fine scented bath, which thoroughly
removed the dust of travel. My new dress-coat, pants,
and vest (Richards best) were produced; snowy linen
covered my chest and encircled my swarthy neck ; a pair
of patent-leather pumps, and a pair of delicate, lavender
colored kids, finished my costume. The metamorphosis
was considerable, and I feared that my quondam friends
would not recognise me at all. Just then the bell
sounded. I waited a moment, and the flutter of silks
rustled by my door, which was shut.
" Come, Bella," said Rosa, " and we'll see our Indian-
Italian friend, unless he is too stingy or too poor, make
his debut directly."
A silvery laugh followed this — a laugh so musical that
I forgave the fair satirist. I lingered in my room until I
knew that the major portion of the guests had gone to
the salle a manger; then I sauntered slowly down, and
entered the dining-hall. A suppressed — "Why, look,
Bella — did you ever! Tis not he after all, but much
resembles him !" — led me in the right direction. I took
the seat just opposite them.
"'Tis he," they both exclaimed in a whisper; "the
young physician is"
" No Indian, after all, ladies — simply an American
citizen, who is very thankful for your whole-souled
compliments ! Garcon id, sil vous plait." A smothered
shriek, a flutter of silks, and a hasty stampede, were the
effects of my remarks, spoken in very plain English.
162 A RUDE IK I \« II M A \.
The garcoi) and the maitre <l hotel rushed up — "Qu'est-
q le c'est, qui 6tea vous?" "Oh! rien, mes amis," I
replied : u une bouteille de < Ihablis blanc!"
\R II. well, I expert to leave for Paris in the morning,
aa I cannot start this afternoon. This Is quite a pleasant
city, however, and pleasure and business will keep my
time employed pretty well. I am now going to the
Prefecture de Police, to have my passport \is<Vd for
Paris ; it is now (luce o'clock p. m.
Sunday, April 10th, 1859.
*********
At home — 24 Rue Bonaparte a Paris.
Tuesday, April 12th, 1859.
Since writing my last day's report in my Journal, in
that hot room in the Hotel d'Alexandrie, many events
have transpired, and. thank Heaven, many miles now lie
between me and the detestable seaport of Marseilles. It
was far from being " pleasant," as I anticipated. Well,
let me briefly recapitulate.
On last Saturday afternoon, after 1 had written up my
last day's Journal, as seen above, T went with the garcon
of the hotel, a foolish, good-for-nothing sort of a fellow.
to the Police office, to have a visSe for Paris attached to
my passport. The officer was quite rude, strange to say,
being a Frenchman, and a French official at that, hut I
my passport, and it was all I went for. 1 returned
te hotel, and having partaken of a tolerable dinner,
and a bottle of eapital wine, I sallied out and had a most
deliciout touch of tooth-ache. That having had its play,
JOURNEY TO PARIS. 463
I proceeded very leisurely, to take a long and very plea-
sant walk. I went the entire length of the street Chemin
de Rome, and had a good view of the city of Marseilles,
a beautiful, and yet an unpleasant and uninviting city.
Finally, I once more reached the hotel, and having drank
a bottle of Lemonade gazeuse, I retired to my small
chamber, and was soon asleep. I slumbered soundly
until six o'clock next morning, at which time I arose and
dressed. The garcon came for my trunk, and having
settled at the hotel for everything, I went on my way
with a light heart to the depot. That spot I reached and
had a fuss with the aforementioned foolish garcon, who
endeavored to cheat me by demanding as much to bring-
up my baggage, as that for which I could have gotten a
carriage for myself and baggage. He did not succeed,
however. At twenty-five minutes to eight, the train
moved slowly off, and I knew I was at least in what
might be safely termed, a speaking distance of Paris and
its beau monde. I must not omit to state how much
trouble that same said old trunk gave me. It split wide
open once or twice, and I had to pay to have it fixed up.
Finally, I left it in a good condition, hoping to see it next
in Paris.
Oh ! what a long, miserable ride it was to Paris ! All
day long we thundered on, stopping only for ^/^-re-
freshments. How much, and how forcibly, these restau-
rants reminded me of J. and Frank G — ! Late at night
we reached Lyons. Here I took supper. After a delay
of half an hour, the cry was heard again, " Au voiture,
messieurs !" We sprang aboard and once more started
I'1 I V i; K I Y A L AT PA R 1 S.
OD our way. It was now pitchy dark, and our train
dashed along Like a night-hawk through the gloom. The
next morning 1 awoke, and found myself still in the cars.
l>ut we were gradually nearing Paris, and my heart grew
1. as 1 thoughl o\' the friends 1 had there l<Tt behind
me. Indue time we passed Fontainebleau. Howrecol-
lections Sashed over me. as I remembered the day Miss
II., and Mrs. S., of Boston, S-t-r-t, of Troy, and .V n.
<>f Philadelphia, and myself, had such a plea-ant time
here, at the old chateau, and through the grand Foret de
F<,,,i<iin> hh mi .' I had scarcely indulged in a remembrance
of that pleasure, now a long time ago, when we were off
again.
To make a long story short, we reached Paris at mid-
day exactly. And how strangely I felt, although more than
familiar to the sight, when I saw the tall spires of St.
Chlotilde, the noble dome of the Invalides, and the large
towers of the Cathedrale de Notre Dame! It actually
seemed strange to hear the real Parisian " Bon jour, Mon-
sieur;" and the cries of the venders of licorice-water were
something novel, although, four months before, I could
tell the different key-notes of every old fellow who dealt
in that beverage on the Champs Elysees. I had very
much difficulty in concealing my knife and pistol (Holy
Land companions) when I arrived at the depot, but finally
succeeded in -towing them away in my bosom. For once,
my usually unlucky baggage was fortunate; it wasnotover-
hauled nor examined. I was soon in a carriage, bound
to m\ old student-home, No. 24 Rue Bonaparte, Quartier
Latin ; and not many minutes elapsed before I was set
GOOD NEWS. 4<)i
down at the large court-door. They were surprised, yet
glad, to see " Monsieur le Docteur" once more ; and the
pretty little daughter of the Concierge said that she was
afraid " que monsieur est mort." Fortunately, my old
acquaintanceship was the means of getting me a room ;
but I could not procure my old chamber, " numero dix-
sept" in which I stayed formerly, and in which all of my
acquaintances met with me in a social gathering, before
our party left Paris, last December. How singular every-
thing appeared to me in my old boarding-house, and how
vividly memory lighted up the events of the past!
I dressed up, after a comfortable bath and a quiet,
ruminating smoke, and took my way to a well-known
house — No. 3 Rue de Dauphin, en face le Jardin des Tuil-
eries — and was delighted to learn that Frank G., my old
friend, had been in town some time, and that he and his
mother were still residing at No. 3. I was much rejoiced,
as I had a lot of things to talk about with Frank. I left
a card for him, as he had sorti; and then continued up
the Rue Rivoli, and thence up Rue de la Paix to No. 5,
Monroe's, my banker's. I found a whole stock of letters
awaiting my arrival ; among others, several from a cer-
tain— the reader knows who — and one containing a draft.
All were welcome (particularly the latter). I then once
more took a grand stroll over the city, up the Avenue des
Champs Elysees, Rue Rivoli, the Boulevards, &c. When
once started, it scarcely seemed I had been gone a week.
I returned, and took dinner at my old boiciUon-plnce,
back of the Palais Royal, where ive students were wont
to congregate in halcyon times — dead and gone! The
30
OLD FRIENDS.
place looked natural and cheerful as ever, despite the
absence of my friends, and the biftek aux pommes was la
u chose, exactement. 1 boughl some cigarettes from
our same little magasin </< Tabac, and commenced another
a stroll. It Beemed I could never tire of walking
about among my old haunts; hut wishing to sec Frank
(i.. 1 returned over the river to my room about eight
o'clock, and soon had the pleasure of hearing his familiar
knock. On our meeting 1 will not dwell; it was the
ig of two sworn friends — of two friends who had
traversed Germany, Franco, and Italy, and climbed
.Mount Cenis, Vesuvius, and the heights of Heidelberg
Schloss together — and who had been separated Tor many
a Ion- weary day.
Frank told me that after we parted in Naples — as
shown in the first page of this Journal — he went to
Palermo in Sicily, and thence returned to Rome, ami was
there during the gay season of the Carnival. In Palermo
he mot my old friend S-t-r-t of Vanderbilt and Paris
memory, and in Pome, my good friend and counsellor
companion, A n of Philadelphia. Frank stayed with
mt' that night, and the next morning I called on Mrs. G.
and Mrs. W n. They were both very glad to see me.
I enjoyed a long conversation with them; and things
ni to look home-like and Paris-like again. From No.
3 Rue de Dauphin, I called on my old friend in Hue de
la Michodiere — the pumpkin pie specialite ai/ac Ameri-
\ns- woman — and Frank and self had a pleasant time.
irly all of my confreres of the hospital have gone
if. My friend J — passed through, and sailed some
FAREWELL. 467
time ago from Galway in Ireland ; there are only three
students remaining in Paris with whom I have any
acquaintance.
With the end of this day's Journal, I must bid the
reader an affectionate farewell. If he has been pleased
at wandering with me over Continental and Holy Lands,
and can say heartily that he has passed an interesting
hour in reading the roughly-sketched events incident to
the life of a traveller, of course I am satisfied. Although
he set out with me in my pilgrimage from Naples, yet I
have brought him with me to Paris. When I shall
return to the United States, I know not. For the pre-
sent my home is here — and once again I say good-bye
and God speed !
INDEX.
Absalom's Pillar, 205.
Abu-Ghaush, 178.
Accident, 168.
Aceldama, 191.
Adventure, 187.
in Venice, 200.
Africa in sight, 432.
Ain-el-Haud, 272.
Akra, hill of, 344.
wall of, 361.
Aksa, el, mosque of, 404.
Alexander spares Jerusalem, 46.
Alexandria in sight, 118.
American missionary, 161.
consul in Jaffa, 146.
Alexandria, 434.
Jerusalem, 246.
Malta, 116.
Analysis of Dead Sea water, 293.
An American, 109.
Ancient topography, 337.
gates, 365.
walls, 359.
Ansairiyeh, 67.
Anticipation, 104.
Apollonius pillages Jerusalem, 47.
Apostle James, tomb of, 206.
place of martyrdom
250.
Apparition, chapel of, 23 I.
Appearance of Malta, 94.
of,
Approaching departure, 316.
Arabian saddles, 31.
Arab politeness, 55.
independence, 58.
Arms in Syria, 31.
moral effect of, 32.
Arrival in Cairo, 436.
Paris, 464.
Ascension, Church, and place of, 210.
At Alexandria, 431.
Author's story, 152.
Autumn in Syria, 26.
Baggage, dangers to, 132.
Bakhshish, 17.
Balls in Beirut, 427.
Banks of Jordan, 285.
Barclay, Dr., 183.
Bargaining for curiosities, 252.
Bathing in Jordan, 289.
Battle among boatmen, 44.
Bazaars in Jaffa, 147.
Cairo, 439.
Jerusalem, 194.
Beirut, 426.
Belief in ghosts, 114.
holy localities, 308.
Bethany, 211.
Bethlehem, 305-310.
Bethlehem women, 310.
Be/.etha, 339.
(469)
170
i \ i > i \
B
Biblioal events in Jaffa, 1 »'.-_:.
Birthplace of Samuel, IT'.'.
Bird - ej e i iiw of Jerusalem, I
Birthplaoe of s.a\ iour, ■" ' < > T .
Blaok tents, 801.
bread, -J" l.
Blattner'a hotel, 1 18.
Boatmen, Bwarma of, in port of Alex-
andria, 181.
rival, 112.
Brook Cherith, 27 I.
Kidron, 358.
Calabrian coast, 80.
Calvary, 2 ■
Camping-ground, 276.
Canaan, descendants of, 38.
Cairo, arrival at, I 16
Bight-seeing in. 138
Captives, poisoning of. 165.
Capture of Jerusalem, 51.
Casa Nuova, 315.
Chapel of Apparition, 234.
Greek ami Latin, 239.
Helena, 235.
Cheapness of gold. JIT.
Cherith, brook, 274.
Christian-.. 62.
Church, Greek, I
Ascension, Jin.
IL.ly Sepulchre, 197-226.
Nativity. 305.
San Giovanni, 1 1'.
Si. .lame-. 249.
Sepulchre, erection of, 240.
rebuilt, 2 12.
destroyed by fire,
241."
discussion as to va-
lidity of,
Citta Vecchia. 95.
Civil policemen, 108.
1 ihia, 155.
Climate of the east, 26.
Clothing for Syria. 2T.
Coenaculum, 4"o.
('.•ins. Turkish, 18
fold winds,
Companies, rival boat, 1 12
Conquest, Roman, is.
Mohammedan, 49.
Consul, American, in Malta, 1 111.
Alexandria, I'M.
Jaffa, i i<;.
Jerusalem, 246.
t iontrasts of aea, 186.
Convent of Mar Elias, 804
< lonvente of Jerusalem, I Mi.
Couriers, mail. L9 L60.
Crash, 98.
Crown of Thorns, 286.
• 'rusades and crusaders, 60.
Curiosities in Jerusalem, 252.
Custom-house in Syria, 21.
officials, 145.
Damascus, 36.
Dangers to baggage, 132.
David, reign of, 41.
tomb of, 404.
well of, 309.
and Orpheus, 312.
Day, -weary, 1 M.
Dead Sea, 290.
Decayed tower, 167.
Deniss the photographer, 2)s.
Departure, approaching 316.
from Jerusalem, 420.
Descendants of Canaan, 38.
Destruction of church by fire, 241.
Different paths, 147.
Dilemma, 433.
Dinner, a good, 244.
Discussion in regard to sea-sickness, 119.
as to validity of Church of
Sepulchre, 382.
Dissatisfaction, M'-\.
Doctor Barclay, 183.
Dolorosa, Via. 111.
Donkey riding, 487.
Dragoman, Ibrahim Mordecai. 244.
Dragomen, 22.
Druses, 08.
INDEX.
471
Effect, moral, of arms, 32.
El-Aksa, 404.
Elisha, fountain of, 275.
End of Israelitish monarchy. 44.
English soldiers, 97.
hotel, 143.
En-Rogel, 217.
Equipments for the East, 88.
Erection of Church of Sepulchre, 240.
Esslinger's story, 260.
Evening stroll, 89.
Events, biblical, in Jaffa, 162.
Evil Counsel, hill of, 338
Exchange, rates of, 16.
Family hotel, India, 434.
Farewells, 77.
Father Germano, 174.
Final farewell to reader, 467.
Fire, holy, description of ceremony, 386.
Fire, the holy, 243.
First sight, of Jerusalem, 180.
night in Jerusalem, 184.
wall, 359.
Flattering remarks, 460.
Fondness for titles, 57.
Fountain of Virgin, 220.
Elisha, 275.
Fowls in Nile valley, 435.
Frenchman, a rude, 462.
Friends, old, 466.
Gates, ancient, 365.
modern, 368.
Gehenna, 355.
Germano, Padre, 174.
Gethsemane, visit to, 209-320.
photographs of party in,
321.
Ghaush, Abu, 178.
Ghosts, belief in, 114.
Ghost story, 111.
Goat-meat, 201.
Gold, cheapness of, 247.
Golden Gate, 202.
Golgotha, 238.
Good dinner, 244.
Good news, 465.
Great Valley, 72.
Greek Church. •',:;.
chapel. 2-;'.l.
Grotto of Jeremiah, 413.
Groves, orange, 149.
Guides, Maltese, 24.
importunities of, 87.
Hassan, 176.
Hand. Ain-el, 272.
Health, means of insuring, 34.
Helena, chapel of, 235.
Heliopolis, 439.
Herod's Palace, 360.
Herr Montag, 84.
Herr Montag's story, 90.
Hezekiah, Pool of, 246.
Hill of Evil Counsel, 338.
Hinnom, Valley of, 355.
Hippicus, Tower of, 358.
History of Ramleh, 170.
Jericho, 278.
Jerusalem, 371.
History, Syrian, 37.
Holy Sepulchre, church of, 1 97, 226, 382.
localities, belief in, 308.
Fire, 243.
full description of, 386.
Home, thoughts of, 101.
Hospice, Prussian, 182.
Hotel by Blattner, 143.
du Nil, in Cairo, 436.
India Family, in Alexandria, 434.
Malta Cross, 82.
Mediterranean, in Jerusalem, 224.
House, Custom, in Syria, 21.
officials, 145.
House of Simon the Tanner, 150.
Ibrahim Mordecai, 244.
Pasha, 53.
Importunities of guides, 87.
Independence of Arab, 58.
India Family Hotel, 434.
Inhabitants of Palestine, 54..
Inquisitive lady, 457.
172
i \ pi \.
Insuring health, means of,
ilea ink.- possession, l"
ish monarch} . end of, 1 I.
Israel, kingdom of, 12.
h ars >>t'.
•
landing at, 1 W.
it, by Napoleon, 163.
■ .iii. of Apostle, 206.
Jehoshaphat, vallej of, 204.
Jeremiah, Grotto of, 1 12.
Jericho, ruins of, -77.
history of, 278.
Jerusalem Bpared l>y Alexander, 16.
ancient topography of, o;,'7.
ared bj Saladin, 51.
convents of, 416.
departure from, 120.
first night in, 184.
first sight of, 180.
history of, 371.
leave, for Jordan, 271.
pillaged by Apollonius, 17.
population of, 370.
return to, 3 >1.
. 61.
their ubiquity, 190.
John, Knights of St., 196.
Jordan, 73,
bank^ of, 285.
bathing in,
ride in valley of, 282.
trip to, 270.
valley of, 270.
Journal commenced, 76.
continued, 120.
Journey to Paris
Judas, tree i t. 303.
•. Hi'.
303.
Jukli
_ i7.
K<-!t. Wady-el, 278.
Kidron, brook,
_ David and Orpheus, 312.
Kingdom of Israel, 42.
Kings, Tombs of, 108.
Kirjath jearim, 177.
Knights of St. John, 196.
where bnrie'l. I 16
Laoonia, on board, 1 1 1.
Lad] . inquisitive, 157.
Landing at Jaffa, I 1".
Language, learning the, 29.
Last \ iaits, 819.
Latin Chapel.
Lazarus, tomb of, 216.
Leave Cairn. ■111.
Alexandria, 137.
Messina, 81.
Ramleh, 122.
Lebanon, 283 126.
Leghorn, memories of, 45G.
I ntes, 74.
Life, race for, 222.
Litany. 7 I.
Localities, belief in holy, 308.
Locomotion, means of, 30.
Macedonian, 133.
Mail service in Syria, 19.
couriers, 19.
Malta. 85-44G.
appearance of, 94.
Malta Cross Hotel, 82.
Maltese guides, 24.
manufactures, 100.
Manufactory of ornaments, 259.
Mar Elias, 304, 425.
Maronites, 64.
Mar Saba, 297.
Marseilles, 458.
Martyrdom of St. James, site of, 250.
Mary, Virgin, tomb of, 208,
Masada, 299.
i e al Jaffa, I 18.
Meal, a parting. 45 1.
Me in ol locomotion, 30.
insuring health, 34.
Meat. goat. 201.
Medicines in Syria, 33.
INDEX.
473
Mediterranean, on, 429.
Meet an American, 151.
Memories of Leghorn, 456.
Messageries Imperiales, steamers, 19.
Messina, 81.
arrive at, again, 44'J.
Metamorphosis, 461.
Missing wine, 176.
Missionary, 161.
Modern walls, 366.
gates, 368.
Mohammedan conquest, 49.
Mohammedans, 66.
Monarchy, Israelitish, end of, 44.
Monkary, 151.
Montug, Herr Johannes, 84.
Montag. parting with, 421.
Montag's story, 90.
second story, 322.
Moral eifect of arms, 32.
Moses, Tomb of, 296.
Mosque of Omar, 343.
El-Aksa, 404.
Mount Carmel, 425.
Moriah, 342.
Olives, view from, 253
Olivet, 189, 349.
Temptation, 384.
Zion, 345.
Musa, Neby, 296.
Naples, off, 452.
ride in, 453.
Nar, Wady en, 353.
Nativity, Church of, 305.
Neby Musa, 296.
News, good, 465.
Nile, crossing, 435.
valley of, game on, 435.
Nil, Hotel du, 436.
Office, Post, in Syria, 18.
Officials, custom-house, 145.
Official, troublesome, 459.
Off Naples, 452.
'Okkal, 68.
Old friends, 466.
Olives, Mount of, 189-341.
view from, 253.
Omar, Mosque of, 343.
On board, 424.
board Laconia, 440.
Mediterranean, 429.
Ophel, 344.
Orange groves of Jaffa, 149.
Oriental pilot, 130.
Orlandi, hotel, at Civita Vecchia, 455.
Ornaments, manufactory of, 259.
Orontes, 74.
Orpheus, comparison with David, 312.
Palace, Herod's, 360.
Palestine and Syria, 70.
Palestine, sketch of, 35.
Paris, journey to, 463.
arrival at, once again, 464.
Paris life, story of, 124.
Parting meal, 454.
with Montag, 421.
Pasha, Ibrahim, 53.
Passage, stormy, 448.
Passport system in Mediterranean, 106.
in Syria, 19.
Egypt, 431.
Paths, different, 447.
Pharpar, 75.
Photographer, Deniss the, 248.
Photographs in Oethsemane, 321.
Pillar of Absalom, 205.
Pilot, an oriental, 130.
Place, birth, of Samuel, 179.
of wailing, 192.
Ascension, 210.
Saviour's birth, 307.
Plain of Sharon, 166.
Plans, 317.
our, 122.
Poisoning of captives, 165.
Policeman, civil, 108.
Politeness, Arabic, 55.
Pool of Hezekiah, 246.
Siloam, 313.
Population of Jerusalem, 370.
Position, terrible, 223.
I \ hi \.
. Israelites take, 10.
P *l offi< e in 83 ria, is.
Pretty Tillage, 169.
Priest, young, 1 50.
. Pomb "f. in;.
Prussi hi Hospioe, 182.
itania mountain, 28 I.
- on as i" validity of Holy Sepu]
ohre,
Quirinal Bteamer, 78.
life, 222.
after ;i hat, 99.
leh, history of, 170.
es of exchange, 16.
224.
ly i" Bail, 134,
v and anticipations, 104.
Rebuilt, Church of Sepulchre, 242.
Recollection of an adventure in Venice
200s
Religions in Syria, 59.
380.
Remarks, Battering, 160.
Reminiscences, 1 19.
n of David, 41.
Return to Jerusalem, 301.
Ride in the valley of Jordan, 282.
Naples, 153.
Riding, donkey, 137.
Rival boa! companies, I II'.
En-, 217.
Roman Conquest, 48.
i'H. !_':;.
Rose-water, Bprinkled with, 250.
Rude Frenchman, 162.
Ruins .it Jericho, 277.
-. Arabian, 31.
Sahlimah, Sheikh for Jordan, 271.
Sail for Alexandria, 428.
Saint James, Church of, 249.
place of martyrdo .
250.
ib ••!. 206.
Sainl John, Knights of, 196.
Saladin, 61.
Samuel's birthplace, 17'.>.
San Giovanni, Churoh of, 1 it;.
Saunter, 102,
Saviour's birthplace, 807.
Schism in Greek Churoh, 62.
S( 1. Dead, 290.
okness, 7'.'.
discussion :iv regards, 119.
(•"UlraMs, L86.
md storj by Montag, 822.
wall, 361.
Sects, religious, 380.
Selim 1.. 52.
Sepulchre, Church of, l'.»7-226.
Sharon. Plain of, 71, 166.
rose of, 423.
Ship-surgeon, 123.
Shoes, 29.
Siege of Tyre, 15.
Sight-seeing in Cairo. 438.
Malta, 446.
Siloam, Pool of, 218.
Silwan, village of, 218.
Simon the Tanner, house of, 150.
Sketch of Palestine, 35.
Soldiers, English, 97.
Solomon's Pools, 313.
Stocks of Christ, SM.
Si. me of Judgment, 203.
Unction. 231.
Stormy passage, 448.
Story of Paris life, 124.
by author, 152.
by Esslinger, 2(30.
. 111.
Stromboli by night, 451.
Suitable clothing for Syria, 27.
Swarms of wild fowl, 435.
Syrian autumn, 26.
history, .'I7.
mail-carriers, lfJO.
mail service, 19.
Syria, religions of, 59.
and Palestine, 70.
System, passport, 106.
INDEX.
475
Tamerlane, ">2.
Tanner, Simon, house of, 150.
Temple, 393.
Temptation, Mount of, 284.
Tents, black, 301.
Terrible position, 223.
Third wall, 363.
Thorns, crown of, 236.
Thoughts of home, 101.
Titles, fondness for, 57.
Tomb of Absalom, 205.
Apostle James, 206.
David, 404.
Helena, 412.
Jehoshaphat, 208.
Judges, 412.
Kings, 408.
Lazarus, 216.
Moses, 296.
Prophets, 407.
Virgin Mary, 208.
Zecharias, 207.
Toothache, 251.
Topography, ancient, 337.
Tower, decayed, 167.
Hippicus, 358.
To the reader, farewell, 467.
Trader, a keen, 257.
Tragedy, 311.
Tree of Judas, 303.
Trial of speed, 221.
Trip to Jordan, 270.
Troublesome official, 459.
Turkish coin, 13.
Turgoman, 22.
Tyre, siege of, 45.
Tyropseon, 352.
Unction, Stone of, 231.
Valley, great, 72.
of Hinnom, 355.
Jehoshaphat, 204.
Valley of Jordan, 270-282.
Nile, game in, 435.
Tyropseon 352.
Validity of Church >f Sepulchre, 382.
Vecchia, Citta, 95.
Civita, 455.
Venice, an adventure in, 200.
Via Dolorosa, 414.
View from Mount of Olives, 253.
Village, a pretty, 169.
Virgin Mary. Tomb of, 208.
Fountain of, 220.
Virginian, a, 121.
Visits, last, 319.
to Gethsemane, 320.
Wady-el-Kelt, 273.
Wady-en-Nar, 353.
Wailing, Place of, 192.
Wall, first or ancient, or of Zion, 359.
modern, 366.
second, or of Akra, 361.
third, or of Bezetha, 363.
Wars of Israel, 43.
Water, rose-, sprinkled with, 250.
Weapons, 31.
"Weary day, 440.
Well of David, 309.
We reach the gate, 224.
Wild fowl in Nile valley, 435.
William Winthrop, U. S. Consul in
Malta, 116.
Winds, cold, 83.
Wine missing, 176.
Within the walls, 181.
Women of Bethlehem, 310.
Xystus, 366.
Young Priest, 450.
Zecharias, Tomb of, 207.
Zion, Mount, 345.
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